hi, good work on your motor so far, keep a little pot of wd40 to dip your die cutter in to reduce clogging of the cutter, also i made a cool tool using a short length of 6mm bar,(old screwdriver shaft!) ,cut a 30mm slit down its length, then used a strip of 80 grit stikit pad through the slit, perfect for smoothing out the entire port, just make sure you dont free spin it out of the port or it will come apart in your face!! not trying to be a smart ass, just offering a little help !!
Thank you for your advice about the wd 40 and the special tool !
I have no used lube on the grinder and it was a mistake
this tiny fast thing was clogged up quite fast like you know and i've used a bigger and slower one for the other ports wich didn't clogged up as easily.
I know the tip about the special tool , i've learned about this in a book dedicated to head porting and, more important, seen it in action in a vid on youtube i 've the vid in my" favorites "
Thank you for your advice about the wd 40 and the special tool !
I have no used lube on the grinder and it was a mistake
this tiny fast thing was clogged up quite fast like you know and i've used a bigger and slower one for the other ports wich didn't clogged up as easily.
I know the tip about the special tool , i've learned about this in a book dedicated to head porting and, more important, seen it in action in a vid on youtube i 've the vid in my" favorites "
To answer the question i expect more efficiency because it was quite crappy stock ,more power of course and without a flowbench i can tell the flow and turbulences are way better.
the valves will be deshrouded to help a bit more : )
no loss in any case because the size and main section of the port is the same on intake and a bit bigger on exhaust but to avoid the mismatching of head and exhaust only.
the velocity will not be a problem it's just a bit more conical than stock wich is good.
Why using paint to get the marking done? Will you paint the head on green after you port it? You can use machinist ink, permanent marker or just something sharp to do the markings for gasket matching
hi, good work on your motor so far, keep a little pot of wd40 to dip your die cutter in to reduce clogging of the cutter, also i made a cool tool using a short length of 6mm bar,(old screwdriver shaft!) ,cut a 30mm slit down its length, then used a strip of 80 grit stikit pad through the slit, perfect for smoothing out the entire port, just make sure you dont free spin it out of the port or it will come apart in your face!! not trying to be a smart ass, just offering a little help !!
benspeed1974 5 months ago
@benspeed1974
Hey !
Thank you for your advice about the wd 40 and the special tool !
I have no used lube on the grinder and it was a mistake
this tiny fast thing was clogged up quite fast like you know and i've used a bigger and slower one for the other ports wich didn't clogged up as easily.
I know the tip about the special tool , i've learned about this in a book dedicated to head porting and, more important, seen it in action in a vid on youtube i 've the vid in my" favorites "
michaelovitch 5 months ago
@benspeed1974
Hey !
Thank you for your advice about the wd 40 and the special tool !
I have no used lube on the grinder and it was a mistake
this tiny fast thing was clogged up quite fast like you know and i've used a bigger and slower one for the other ports wich didn't clogged up as easily.
I know the tip about the special tool , i've learned about this in a book dedicated to head porting and, more important, seen it in action in a vid on youtube i 've the vid in my" favorites "
michaelovitch 5 months ago
@michaelovitch
Thank you for your help and your comment !
michaelovitch 5 months ago
Hehehe that explains why
How the engine runs after gasket matching? Any differences (gain, loss, smoothness)
Did you port further the head like bowl, floor or remove any casting inside the head?
And thank you for sharing the knowledge :)
hyundaiverna 6 months ago
@hyundaiverna
I did this work on the bowl, floor, short side radius, bump around valve guide and castings, in all the ports for intake and exhaust.
you can see that in the others videos. the head is still on the workbench waiting for the shortblock wich is in progress too .
i will do vids on that too.
michaelovitch 6 months ago
To answer the question i expect more efficiency because it was quite crappy stock ,more power of course and without a flowbench i can tell the flow and turbulences are way better.
the valves will be deshrouded to help a bit more : )
michaelovitch 6 months ago
@michaelovitch
no loss in any case because the size and main section of the port is the same on intake and a bit bigger on exhaust but to avoid the mismatching of head and exhaust only.
the velocity will not be a problem it's just a bit more conical than stock wich is good.
michaelovitch 6 months ago
Why using paint to get the marking done? Will you paint the head on green after you port it? You can use machinist ink, permanent marker or just something sharp to do the markings for gasket matching
hyundaiverna 6 months ago
@hyundaiverna
My marker was dry and i had a can of green half used.
It looked faster to spray and easier to use with the one piece intake gasket wich always move because thin and long.
It wil give me a very good reason to clean the head very well and maybe polish it : )
Thanks for the comment.
michaelovitch 6 months ago