Added: 3 years ago
From: panrobercik
Views: 39,105
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (59)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • just get a trigger off midway it works

    

  • are you russian you helped me alot good work on video

  • @shannonandsheila1

    I'm from Poland.

    I'm glad you find the video helpful

    Thank you

  • @panrobercik i'm glad to hear that your allowed to own firearms in poland.....of course,if that ever changes,we'd love to have you here in america!.....thank you for this valuabe information....i wonder if this modification was done on soviet sniper nagant's of the ww2 era?

  • @smartacus88

    I've actually done it on my MN sniper as well . I also did some simple barrel floating and that's going to be my next video when I get around to do it. My MN sniper shoots 1.5 inch or better with handloads after modifications and I think that's darn good for an old rifle.

  • I was just doing masking tape under the rear of the sear in 2003, but this year I tried the Huber, the Timney, and the washer(s) under the sear.

    The big problem with everything [but the Timney] is that there are so many variations in the three MN parts; sear, cocking piece, and trigger.

    Those variations can make the initial trigger pull anywhere from 3 pounds to 12 pounds.

    The problem with the washer method, is it does nothing for the 12 pound case.

  • The reason its long and heavy is because there is no safety

  • @greenpooter There is a safety on the MN. Dont do this with live ammo! Once the bolt is cocked, you active the safety by pulled on the knurled job at the rear of the bolt. It is the big round nob with the screw in it that points at your face when the rifle is shouldered. With that knob in hand, pull back as hard as you can and turn to the left. This will activate the safety. It is dangerous to activate safety with live ammo. The trigger pull is a consequence of primitive manufacturing.

  • Read about this on the surplusrifle forums. My trigger spring protruded exactly 3mm into the receiver, after shimming it now protrudes 2mm, a great improvement in trigger pull. Make sure you bang the butt of the rifle hard on a carpet or padded floor to make sure a strong shock wont cause it to fire.

  • It is interesting video, but you mention alot of cons verus pros. Keep in mind that the there is a reason for the trigger having slack and that is a safety design as a back to avoid having to use the actual safety as well as for gloved artic operations. I know that alot of people like to try to convert a weapon to be as high tech as possible, but its not. One more thing is that Mosin is Pronounced MOO Seen not Moisen. There is not i in the designers name.

  • Informative and well-done video! Nastrovie! (did I get that right?)

  • can you take a micrometer or vernier caliper and measure the thickness of your shim,not for a standard but for a starting point,thanks

  • @fester1957

    0.04 inch was the thinnest I've used. For some rifles I could go 0.07 inch but the bolt wouldn't stay in .

    You will nee to slightly bend it to fit the receiver. After the screw engages, it will form itself. Make sure to make clearance for the magazine .

  • Thanks.... Nice video.

  • Thank you for this very helpful and informative video

  • This is a great tip . I found it works better if you use thinner plastic washers,it's easyer to get them to the right thickens,there easyer to sand down than metal.

  • I just gave this one a shot, and after testing to see if the trigger pull was any better, I found that the sear would not release the hammer every time. In fact, the hammer didn't go forward less than half of the time.

    It seems that the spring engages the trigger at a certain angle, at which, the sear fully clears the hammer, and shimming the spring changes this angle in such a way so as to cause the sear to not fully release the hammer.

    cont.

  • @Partyboy128

    I believe that if this mod were performed with another mod that involves drilling, tapping, and inserting a set screw to reduce travel (like the hubert concept trigger), you can alleviate this problem.

    I think with both mods performed in conjunction, trigger travel and trigger pull can be reduced and improve accuracy somewhat without reducing the reliability of the rifle.

  • @Partyboy128

    And I realize that a sixty-five dollar trigger job is kind of expensive for such a cheap rifle. A cheaper way of accomplishing this would be to place a shim between the sear and the trigger where the trigger engages the sear. The thickness of the second shim would have to be tailored to both the rifle and the owner's liking, as it would affect trigger creep.

  • @Partyboy128

    A third option would be to bend the sear spring down, as Dieselnut216 had suggested.  I would suggest that this be done in small increments, as too much adjustment could cause the sear to not engage the hammer at all, which might present a small chance of the gun slam firing.

  • @Partyboy128

    I think your shim is too thick. This is the reason I didn't want to say how thick the shim should be. It just depends on the rifle. Bending the spring works too but someone who is not used to working with metal might bend it too much than go back too much and so on until it brakes. There are many mods that can be done and this video shows only one of them. I personally do many things to my weapons, but I wouldn't take responsibility of showing risky mods to others.

  • You can also bend the sear spring down ever so slighty and tweak the affect of the shim. Also another fix is to make a "Finn Trigger."

    This involves drilling a hole forward and slightly above where your main pin hole is located. This kinda gives it a 2 stage feel. Also eliminates slack.

  • giving one away free arkguns.com for rules/ how to enter

  • i cannot for the life of me remove the sear screw! ive tried different screw drivers, a vice grips on the screw driver. and it just slips. ive stopped so i dont completely wreck the head but i dont know what to do.

  • Largest slotted screwdriver you can fit , mounted in an impact driver...

    or vice grip pliers ....

    smack the screw with a small hammer , it loosens it a little.

    Last resort, a punch and a hammer with receiver vise mounted...

  • @panrobercik how about the 7$ slack spring? that has a nice effect on the trigger.

  • @mxf7010g8k heat it with a hair dryer and let it cool before you try anything that might damage it further.....it may take several heating and cooling cyclesa but eventually it will free up, i had the same problem with magazine tube on my mossberg shot gun and after trying lots of different sugestions buy local gunsmiths a buddy of mine recomended this and it worked like a champ.

  • @cgspeeddemon1yea, i got it done a while ago and it came out really nice, i did some videos on the mods and refinishing process if you want to check them out!

  • @mxf7010g8k nice rifle, i like the way you kept the history in it while personalizing it for you.

  • @cgspeeddemon1 THANKS! thats what i was trying to do!

  • @mxf7010g8k Try some penetrating grease/ fluid or WD40 see if that loosens it. I use ZEPP 2000 that could loosen almost anything. It could be rusted did you look for rust? Otherwise a gorilla must have tightened it onto there, maybe even cross threaded? If it's cross threaded you might not get it back on after you get it off.

  • Only thing I ever "fixed" on my mosin was drifting the front sight

  • My F'n trigger spring broke... night before i was taking it out to shoot.... what a pain in the ass.... oh well 76 years on 1 spring isn't too bad...

  • I used a bolt washer for the spacer. I added two, had to shave the 2nd though.

  • I tried a .042 shim to start --ended up with a .025 that works--feels a little better. Took about 5 min. Thanks.

  • I used a soda can aluminum on my M44 like I read on surplusrifle c m. And that worked very well.

    Then I bought a huber concepts trigger for my 91/30 and it was really good (I hated to spend that on a cheap rifle... is too much to type as to why).

    Moved huber concepts from my 91/30 to my m44 and it works great. shot at range today.

    videos of my 300 yard no scope shooting on my site.

  • You tried the Huber Concepts trigger? How does it stack up to that mod? I might try that, don't want to spent $88 on a nice trigger for a $100 gun.

  • If I was to spend that kind of money on a cheap rifle It would be for MOJO sight

    I'm sure Hubert trigger is nice but if you do this mod and polishing job from my other MN video you can do a lot of improvement and spend your money elsewhere

  • Yeah, I totally agree. I was only wondering if you had used it before. I know it sounds crazy, but I am trying to out-shoot a G3 of my friend's. I have $10 on the line. XD

  • I feel the need to pipe in here.. I don't know if you have tried the mojo sights but they ARE worth the money. I eyeball centered the front peep sight and bought the aperture pack.. went to the range and it was dead on. Obviously I got lucky but the double aperture sight picture is the best set of iron sights I've ever looked down.

  • I want mojo bad, just got to figure out if I want it for my M38 or 91/59. My 91/30 has PU scope so no mojo on this one.

  • @Gorbachev

    Thanks, I think I'll finally get one. For my aging eyes peep is a blessing. I love it on Lee Enfield so I'm sure I'll like it on MN

  • Good video man! Looks like a simple mod especially since you can use a standard washer to start with. You said your shim was 8mm thick so I would assume that a 7mm shim should be safe for almost any Mosin to start with. I just measured a washer I have here and its 7mm. I'll give it a try this weekend, Thanks!

  • great video man. i was just modifying my hungarian m44. did the trigger and cut the stock back to the rear sight post. i think cuting the stock back will make it more accurate from the smoothing out the harmonics. someone should do a video like this for an sks.

  • Fantastic video!!! My shim was 0.8mm thick, took 20 min to make and install. The shim cut my pull dramatically, maybe from 10 to less than 5 lbs and the rifle passed the "bump test" 5 stars.

  • I'm glad it you like it.

    Thanks

  • good safety instructions to add to the video.

  • Great video!

  • With practie I've gotten used to the two stage trigger. My Tula M44 clicks slightly just before it breaks. Last year I killed a doe at 200 yds shooting prone with open sights.

  • yeah I took a doe at 370yards open sights last season, but mine is the 91/30 so it helped over a m44...

  • Which ammo?

  • handloaded ammo, I was with one of my freinds who has reloaded forever and he told me to try it out, I think it was a swift 220gr bullet.i love it granit it is to ungaingily for brush hunting but it is great otherwise, you just have to get used to your rifle I have had three and none of them shot the same... and practice, practice, practice, with cheap or handloaded ammo, that is possible....

  • you need better lighting.

    what you doing is reducing sear engagement.

  • very good instructional video, ill have to try that mod on mine

  • dobra robota

  • Simple and easy. Works great.

  • Doing it this way does not change the C&R status of the rifle and it cost almost nothing. I said 1/4 of an inch of the pull reduction but it's got to be at least 1/2. I have no way of measuring how many pounds reduced, but just being shorter helps a lot.

  • what is the nominal thickness on the washer you fitted?

  • this one was around a half of a millimeter bent to fit roundness of the receiver. In some MN's this is too thick so be careful.

  • Great video! This is a really good idea on how to lighten the trigger pull. I have heard of differnt things but this is one of the best I have seen. 5 stars

  • I second that, keep them coming!

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more