@dmosier You've been told wrong. Lockers are required at hard points, focul points but really you can't carry that many locking biners. Say I had four pieces for a anchor #1 plus clip in thats 5 biners for one anchor, then us a munter thats 6 on one anchor point required. Next anchor is 4 more plus two I need 10 locking biners! come on! I do not doubt that some one has told you that that is required but the ACMG is about 8 years away from becoming that crazy. Most likely they will get there
@climberslacker No I think I just mesured the distance tied a overhand at the right point so that it would be shortened to the right lenght. Clove would work I supposethough it would slip a little not that that is a bad thing.
Great video. I have used the sliding X on rock routes with bolted anchors after seeing some climbers use them. It was indeed quick and easy. Otherwise, I have always used the traditional method of equalizing an anchor. Especially on ice climbs I don't feel comfortable. As you've mentioned, if one of the points fail then you'll be falling a bit until the other end catches you. Plus, since you are on a static line, it will exert a lot of force on the remaining points. Ouch!
Right technique (and gear) at the right time. What do you gain and what do you lose. Nothing's perfect. Some things are just less bad. haha
The sliding X with limiter knots is my tool of choice for most climbs with solid bolted stations. One thing to consider: Sling material. A 10mm Dyneema sling may not be the best choice for this anchor given it's low melting point and how this anchor lends itself to sling on sling sliding.
@Bagelo55 Hmm. I doubt that I would use the X in a ice climbing senario. The reason would be that each pitch would be diffrent. I mostly use double lenght sewn sling with a overhand of some sort to a focul point. Multi-pitch bolted stations on rock is where I would be using this the most. I certianly wouldn't be using it for top roping. Not much help sorry.
@mikebarter387 Hey Mike great video! I've spent a few summers in NB but have never made it out to Nfld. I hope you made it out to George St for a night!
@mikebarter387 Thank you for the reply Mike! Looking forward to seeing more "Mike's Mail" in the future..hopefully more about ice as the season is swiftly approaching!
@bjrcboy I was wondering if somebody was going to notice that. That is exactly what it is. I just push it through the knot one more time to keep the tail out of the way. Keen eye.
@mikebarter387 Would you recommend it over a double fisherman's back to the rope? Whenever I'm pushing my ability while leading my knots seem to get in the way occasionally. Also do you have any advice, concerns, and/or myths regarding a double bowline? I've never used it but I have met a few people who swear by it...I've also heard a ton of negatives.
@bjrcboy There is a good reason that the 99.8 percent of the climbers in the world use the re-tied figure 8. Double fishermans is a poor choice for tieing in. The double bowline is also a poor choice in my opinion. Do you know what one looks like from ten feet away. I don't and I have been climbing all my adult life. I could recognise a 8 from 30 feet away. The bowline is used by sport climbers who have been at it for awhile. You may want to climb for a bit longer before switching to that knot.
Mike, I don't think he's asking about TYING IN with a double fisherman as the primary knot, he's asking you to distinguish the relative merits of the dbl fisherman vs. the "Yosemite Finish" for the backup knot.
@mikebarter387 I think I properly phrase my last reply. Please dont think I use a double fishermans to tie in with! I use it after a double figure eight to tidy up the working end.
Well done Mike. I really think the emphasis is on not having just one tool in your tool box. Or one partner in your bedroom (it's all the same really isn't it?)
I guess if you wanted to use two locking biners on the focal point then you could drop the loop. Who does that and why would you? Keep it simple quick loop one locker, your good to go.
@15:48 I notice that you still have a "loop" in the sliding X. If you are using two lockers is that loop necessary? Could you just clip one side with one locker and the other side with the other locker? Great video.
@nomensteven I guess if you wanted to use two locking biners on the focal point then you could drop the loop. Who does that and why would you? Keep it simple quick loop one locker, your good to go.
@nomensteven Sorry in a discussion today I found out the canadian Alpine club has been preaching what you are talking about. I personally wouldn't worry much about it as I most likely use the X on bolted stations where things are not going to fail and speed it a more pressing concern.
@mikebarter387 No worries. Yeah I had always been taught to use two separate lockers for redundancy sake. Probably more necessary in a top-roping situation then at multi-pitch stations. Thanks for the videos. Always enjoy them. If you are ever down in southern Alberta you should stop in at the Lethbridge climbing gym.
Good stuff mike. I think a lot of the people who give you crap might think that there's only one right way to do something, and everything else is wrong... Stupid thinking.
The way you showed in the other anchor is how I make my trad anchors for multipitch climbing and TR maybe 90% of the time, because for nearly all situations it works. The sliding X and equalette are "tools" in my "tool box", just like the cordalette method.
Sweet videos. Keep em coming. Ice season is coming up!
lol.. I want to name a route "some big ass multipitch route" now =-)
ceilingcatdisciple 10 months ago
Is that "Movie's You should see" in the audio in the background lol
Cobra0911 1 year ago
@Cobra0911 might be I have a crush on aliicaian doewney or at least her voice
I dig their reviews
mikebarter387 1 year ago
Same question at 11:33. And at 12:10
Where the BLEEP are the lockers in the anchor?
dmosier 1 year ago
Same question at 11:33. Where the BLEEP are the lockers in the anchor?
dmosier 1 year ago
@dmosier your a smart guy come on do we eally need a locker at every point
mikebarter387 1 year ago
Big Question Mike:
At 8:30 it appears that you clip into the bolts with non locking wire gated biners, and use a locker for your main clip in point.
Could you comment on using non locking biners for an anchor, please.
I am pretty sure that would be an instant fail on a ACMG course (or so I am told).
Really, I thought one would use lockers on the anchor always, and if you did not have a locker then use 2 biners (opposite and opposed).
I know you are no nubie, so what gives with the non lockers?
dmosier 1 year ago
@dmosier You've been told wrong. Lockers are required at hard points, focul points but really you can't carry that many locking biners. Say I had four pieces for a anchor #1 plus clip in thats 5 biners for one anchor, then us a munter thats 6 on one anchor point required. Next anchor is 4 more plus two I need 10 locking biners! come on! I do not doubt that some one has told you that that is required but the ACMG is about 8 years away from becoming that crazy. Most likely they will get there
mikebarter387 1 year ago
its sliding v, not x.
panzergrenadier90 1 year ago 2
@panzergrenadier90 No it's not.
mikebarter387 1 year ago 3
Hey Mike,
Nice video. One question: In the last part of it, did you just bring the last cam into the system with a clove hitch?
climberslacker 1 year ago
@climberslacker No I think I just mesured the distance tied a overhand at the right point so that it would be shortened to the right lenght. Clove would work I supposethough it would slip a little not that that is a bad thing.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
Great video. I have used the sliding X on rock routes with bolted anchors after seeing some climbers use them. It was indeed quick and easy. Otherwise, I have always used the traditional method of equalizing an anchor. Especially on ice climbs I don't feel comfortable. As you've mentioned, if one of the points fail then you'll be falling a bit until the other end catches you. Plus, since you are on a static line, it will exert a lot of force on the remaining points. Ouch!
mondorescue 1 year ago
Right technique (and gear) at the right time. What do you gain and what do you lose. Nothing's perfect. Some things are just less bad. haha
The sliding X with limiter knots is my tool of choice for most climbs with solid bolted stations. One thing to consider: Sling material. A 10mm Dyneema sling may not be the best choice for this anchor given it's low melting point and how this anchor lends itself to sling on sling sliding.
-The Guy From Yam.
mck787 1 year ago
Hey Mike! Great video. How would you feel about using the sliding X on two long screws for an ice anchor in good ice?
Bagelo55 1 year ago
@Bagelo55 Hmm. I doubt that I would use the X in a ice climbing senario. The reason would be that each pitch would be diffrent. I mostly use double lenght sewn sling with a overhand of some sort to a focul point. Multi-pitch bolted stations on rock is where I would be using this the most. I certianly wouldn't be using it for top roping. Not much help sorry.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@mikebarter387 Hey Mike great video! I've spent a few summers in NB but have never made it out to Nfld. I hope you made it out to George St for a night!
CamelCigarettePack 1 year ago
@mikebarter387 Thank you for the reply Mike! Looking forward to seeing more "Mike's Mail" in the future..hopefully more about ice as the season is swiftly approaching!
Bagelo55 1 year ago
As always my friend, very helpfull and educational videos.
Wellcome back.
ZORRO666 1 year ago
What knot are you tied in with at 12:20ish? Is that a double figure eight but the working end goes back through the knot?
bjrcboy 1 year ago
@bjrcboy I was wondering if somebody was going to notice that. That is exactly what it is. I just push it through the knot one more time to keep the tail out of the way. Keen eye.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@mikebarter387 Would you recommend it over a double fisherman's back to the rope? Whenever I'm pushing my ability while leading my knots seem to get in the way occasionally. Also do you have any advice, concerns, and/or myths regarding a double bowline? I've never used it but I have met a few people who swear by it...I've also heard a ton of negatives.
bjrcboy 1 year ago
@bjrcboy There is a good reason that the 99.8 percent of the climbers in the world use the re-tied figure 8. Double fishermans is a poor choice for tieing in. The double bowline is also a poor choice in my opinion. Do you know what one looks like from ten feet away. I don't and I have been climbing all my adult life. I could recognise a 8 from 30 feet away. The bowline is used by sport climbers who have been at it for awhile. You may want to climb for a bit longer before switching to that knot.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@mikebarter387
Mike, I don't think he's asking about TYING IN with a double fisherman as the primary knot, he's asking you to distinguish the relative merits of the dbl fisherman vs. the "Yosemite Finish" for the backup knot.
batumshockalocka 1 year ago
@batumshockalocka Exactly.
bjrcboy 1 year ago
@mikebarter387 I think I properly phrase my last reply. Please dont think I use a double fishermans to tie in with! I use it after a double figure eight to tidy up the working end.
bjrcboy 1 year ago
@bjrcboy Yeh figured that out after somebody mentioned it. I use the bowline a lot just not to tie in with. But thats me.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
Well done Mike. I really think the emphasis is on not having just one tool in your tool box. Or one partner in your bedroom (it's all the same really isn't it?)
csuwehling 1 year ago
great video. i think thanks are in order! thanks
davemadfish 1 year ago
Love the humor. Great video, Mike.
cbrusharmy 1 year ago
I guess if you wanted to use two locking biners on the focal point then you could drop the loop. Who does that and why would you? Keep it simple quick loop one locker, your good to go.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@15:48 I notice that you still have a "loop" in the sliding X. If you are using two lockers is that loop necessary? Could you just clip one side with one locker and the other side with the other locker? Great video.
nomensteven 1 year ago
@nomensteven I guess if you wanted to use two locking biners on the focal point then you could drop the loop. Who does that and why would you? Keep it simple quick loop one locker, your good to go.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@nomensteven Sorry in a discussion today I found out the canadian Alpine club has been preaching what you are talking about. I personally wouldn't worry much about it as I most likely use the X on bolted stations where things are not going to fail and speed it a more pressing concern.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@mikebarter387 No worries. Yeah I had always been taught to use two separate lockers for redundancy sake. Probably more necessary in a top-roping situation then at multi-pitch stations. Thanks for the videos. Always enjoy them. If you are ever down in southern Alberta you should stop in at the Lethbridge climbing gym.
nomensteven 1 year ago
Comment removed
nomensteven 1 year ago
Good stuff mike. I think a lot of the people who give you crap might think that there's only one right way to do something, and everything else is wrong... Stupid thinking.
The way you showed in the other anchor is how I make my trad anchors for multipitch climbing and TR maybe 90% of the time, because for nearly all situations it works. The sliding X and equalette are "tools" in my "tool box", just like the cordalette method.
Sweet videos. Keep em coming. Ice season is coming up!
fenix990 1 year ago