I have a pinhole leak on the center stub on the reversing valve on my heat pump. Would you just braze it to fix it or replace the reversing valve just because?
Excellent video. You should try liquid snoop. It is alot more expensive than what you are using but it will show micro bubles which the product you are using is not capable of doing.
Your shraeder was leaking because they didn't remove them while brazing. Probably didn't wrap the valves with a wet wash cloth either. Probably didn't run Nitrogen when brazing either. Losers they are.
@hokanut there's a charge in the bulb and you want the tit of that bulb up not down to boil off when its reading the line temperature...no nitrogen to prevent flaking or carbon(soot) hit doesn't know hvac well
Good Mechanic! Was just wondering why we broke the vac. charging liq. into the suction side at the compressor. ME I go into the high side to avoid stinging the valves, or plates, once equalized, start the Compressor and finish, using the suction side, restricting the Liq. using the gauge set.
To add insult to injury. It looks like whoever installed this unit did not do a very good job at all, yes I said Goodman was junk, but it would sure help a little if it was installed right, heck the suction line is not even properly insulated LOL. Looks like a real dumb ass installed this thing, and that welding job looks left to be desired that the origional installer did.
Well that says it all about Goodman units. They are pieces of JUNK! I installed a Janitrol several yrs back for a guy that wanted to say a few bucks, and right from the start it was junk, the blower assembly was laying in the bottom of the furnace un attached. When I got the a/c unit in there was no charge in it, added some gas to it, and discovered there was a big hole in the condenser coil. They sent me a new condenser, but even after I had to go out on 3 calls for one thing or other.
@theonemam If Goodman is junk, why are they the only manufacturer that offers a 10 year warranty on just the condenser. Can't find that with Lennox, Carrier or Trane without buying a new evaporator too. I love em! I don't like the new Amana design though.
i showed my students this video, and they pointed out everything you did wrong, txv bulb upside down, no drier installed, and r-22 added through the low side?? yep busch league!!!!!
Hey dumbass!!! You left the the xv bulb upside down the tit of the bulb is supposed to be on top! !! R-22 upside down where s your restrictor on your gauges!! Stay out if Omaha your Busch league!! You don't know what your doing! !
i had a leaker today guess where it leaked right @the liquid line service valve new install im guessing overheating the valve and did not wrap it !!!!
@ontariohvac I usually have a few things to gather up and put away. I use that time to power up the unit and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes. I don't have a set amount of time that I wait.
@PutSome5tankOnIt I would have thought there would still be liquid in the suction line. I may have to do this to a package unit this week and I don't want to blow the compressor.
Thanks for the video. I know there are many opinions about pin hole repair, so I wanted to ask a pro. Is it ok to use Stay Bright solder, which has a much lower melting point, or 5% silver Harris to repair a pin hole leak in a evaporator? The reason I ask, is that I am concerned about using so much heat on the thin walled tubing of a evap. Heat weakens copper, and I think in R22 systems the pressure is low enough for StayBright. I repair rather than replace when possible/practical.
@douglas787 StayBrite would probably work. I prefer brazing alloy and a 'cold' flame on the oxy-acetylene. It takes practice but the sil-phos isn't as likely to flow into (and fill) the tubing. Heat the pinhole and dab a bit of alloy over it. Use the small (almost a pinpoint) flame to barely melt it into the hole. Then, feather/spread the melting alloy around the perimeter of the repair area. The higher the silver content (15% is fantastic stuff!), the easier it is. Thanks for watching.
Wish they were all that easy, I will admit as soon as I seen the Goodman condensor the first initial thought was the evaporator had a leak. I have actually found leaks similar though on higher pressure systems such as R-410A systems due to installers applying either not enough heat to the joint or not enough braze.
putsome5tankonit hope you are doing great iwas watching this video and when you added the refrigerant you just open the low side or both ? supose you have to add it by high side because is liquid right? or does'nt matter i mean just wonder probably people with your experience know more things that people without i just want to know the right way thanks nice video.
@theASEtech Thanks for watching and commenting. When adding the entire system charge, I dump it in on both sides. Saves time and the bulk of the charge entering the low side evaporates quickly, especially in the summer. Always charge AC's in cool mode, from the suction side... even on heat pumps. Head pressure is almost always higher than tank pressure when the system is running.
@PutSome5tankOnIt I was taught to charge from both sides in school. Noticed you use the swab instead of the spray when leak checking. I like it for a more directed check but if you need to do a big area, do you use the spray?
@blocksopiff I don't care for the spray bottle at all, except to spray into a tight area. I'll sweep a large area (like a coil) with my infrared leak detector. Lots of older leaks present with oil so they can be identified visually and pinpointed with a dauber applicator.
@PutSome5tankOnIt Alright, I hear you. I'm about halfway through a 10 month program on this and I'm getting as much information as I can from techs in the field. I'll be honest, none of my instructors like the spray either. Most think it's a waste of time and money.
@blocksopiff Good luck with the schooling. The real learning begins when you have to fix bad service work and installations. The spray bottle is 32oz. The can is 8oz. I carry the can in my tool bag.
@PutSome5tankOnIt Yeah my troubleshooting teacher is a genius. He hard-wired faults into every system we have so you can simulate a fault, electrical or refrigerant, with the flip of a switch. I'm glad he did or we'd be screwed on learning this.
Thanks. If you can't reclaim the charge, it's best to pump the unit down (recover charge to outdoor unit) and isolate each line and the indoor coil. Pressure test with nitrogen, at least 250PSI. Look for signs of oil at field braze connections and at the indoor coil. Check for oil around the outdoor coil, too. An electronic leak detector is helpful, especially the infrared type.
Always check service valves and ports first. You'd be amazed at how many leaks I've found in those areas.
GOOD JOB BRO.....HEY I HAVE A QUESTION IF YOU CAN PLEASE HELP?...I DON'T HAVE A RECOVERY MACHINE SO I CAN'T RECOVER TO FIND A LEAK WITH NITROGEN...THE LINES SEEMS TO BE GOOD NO LEAKS AT ALL.TXV VALVE IS GOOD AND I'M THINKING THAT IT COULD BE THE CONDENSER COIL OR EVAP COIL..IS THERE ANYTHING FOR ME TO FIND IT OUT? IS COLD AROUND HERE N I'M CHARGING IT IN COLD WEATHER(this is a heat pump of course)..i charged this system right before it got cold...big leak but cant find it
@MrNilsanderson Lots of times, yes. I can't say that I've never left a leak behind when I was younger. We all learn from our mistakes. I prefer to learn from other peoples' mistakes whenever possible.
@PutSome5tankOnIt@PutSome5tankOnIt Idhobbs is correct. the sensing bulb is filled with liquid refrigerant. If you mount it upside down the liquid refrigerant will gravitate to the diaphragm of the TXV. In fact in ALL TXV instructions it recommends installing it in a horizontal position: Mount TXV sensing bulb using the clamp in kit box at 4 or 8 o’clock on a horizontal plane of the
suction line circumference <--from the Aspen coil website (YT wont let me post link)
@Rooster55199 I saw no mention of the sensing bulb for the TXV being filled with liquid refrigerant or the risk of migration on Aspen's web site (nor any other TXV manufacturer's site). No mention of mercury, either. I can appreciate the horizontal installation (and clock location) being the preferred method. I respectfully disagree with your assertions. Feel free to debate with DrZarkloff. I consulted with him (among others) and he agrees with me.
@PutSome5tankOnIt From the "Preparing for the NATE exam" book (Air Conditioning and Heat pumps), Page 47: "The refrigerant in a liquid-charged bulb/vapor charged bulb matches the refrigerant that is in the refrigeration system. Liquid is always present in the bulb and the refrigerant inside always follows the corresponding pressure temprature relationship of the system.
This is not debatable, all the books, manufactures installation instructions, all say the same thing. It is a proven science.
@Rooster55199 I still disagree, especially with newer TXVs. I have accidentally broken the capillary for the sensing bulb on a BRAND NEW expansion valve and didn't see ANY liquid refrigerant leak escape. Even if the bulb was mounted horizontally, would't a liquid charge migrate DOWN to a TXV mounted on a lower plane?
@PutSome5tankOnIt LOL!! and you are informing people as a public service? Your knowledge of pressure and temperatures should tell you why there was no liquid coming out of the broken cap tube. Bulbs must have liquid present inside throughout their design range.
@ldhobbs You're not the first to tell me that. I checked with a few techs and all of them said it doesn't matter on a vertical suction line. If you have a link to a technical site that says otherwise, I'd be more than happy to read it. Thanks for the comment!
@PutSome5tankOnIt I have the info in a class manuel from where I went to school, but could really find the info online. But what the book says is that the bulb is filled with gas (sometimes Mercury) which is what gets hot and expands to operate the TXV and if placed upside down the gas will not stay in the bulb and will run into the line making the bulb useless.
@fastzombie1 The sensing bulb monitors the temperature of the refrigerant line and 'tells' the expansion valve how much refrigerant flow to allow into the evaporator coil.
you still installed the sensing bulb incorrectly. thats just as bad as complaining about the welding and comments made about the person that did the welding. if you are so good you should know the proper way to install a sensing buld. CAP TUBE UP.
@acguy1775 I was recently made aware of that preferred configuration! I scratched my head a few times because NO ONE had ever taught me (professionals included) of the difference in horizontal and vertical applications. Thank you for pointing that out!
@seanseanseanseansean I sure can!!! But that wouldn't be my style. I certainly appreciate you noticing my flaws. I also have chronic sinus issues due to years and years of working in dusty, fiberglass-filled attics and inhaling my fair share of asbestos. It's a labor of love that I wouldn't change for all the money in the world.
@FF034 The bottle was inverted while weighing in the charge. I tilted it a bit to close the valve. That changed the tension on the hose and thus, how much the scale thought the bottle weighed. I should've explained that more concisely. Thanks for picking up on that.
@apnaconstruction OH!!! I know what you're talking about now. That DA service valve does not have a flat profile on top of the lug. It's an unusual design. It shouldn't be fully front-seated (open). DA has since added an o-ring to the service valve cap design. I still leave the crown below the body of the valve.
@apnaconstruction I've never questioned what I was taught about front-seat and back-seat positions of service valves (and gauge sets) when I was younger. Front-seat is fully open. Back-seat is fully closed. I may be wrong. 'Cracking' the seat is a reference to opening refrigerant, oxygen and acetylene bottles. Partially opening these bottles is usually more than adequate. Cracking the seat of the suction port on your gauges serves to meter the flow of refrigerant into a running AC system.
@apnaconstruction Adding refrigerant to a system that is running is done from the suction side. I add the complete charge to an empty system from both sides... just get the refrigerant into the system as quickly as I can.
I put a brand new (york) unit 2 years ago and now there a leak,the guy who installed it came and looked for the leak in all welds,inside and outside ,around the compressor,still cant find it,he says that it can be in the coil above the furnace,and said i to change it,and the warranty was only a year so im out of luck,do u think hes right.
I put a brand new (york) unit 2 years ago and now there a leak,the guy who installed it came and looked for the leak in all welds,inside and outside ,around the compressor,still cant find it,he says that it can be in the coil above the furnace,and said i to change it,and the warranty was only a year so im out of luck,do u think hes right.
I put a brand new (york) unit 2 years ago and now there a leak,the guy who installed it came and looked for the leak in all welds,inside and outside ,around the compressor,still cant find it,he says that it can be in the coil above the furnace,and said i to change it,and the warranty was only a year so im out of luck,do u think hes right.
I put a brand new (york) unit 2 years ago and now there a leak,the guy who installed it came and looked for the leak in all welds,inside and outside ,around the compressor,still cant find it,he says that it can be in the coil above the furnace,and said i to change it,and the warranty was only a year so im out of luck,do u think hes right.
@KevinCarrollCoyle I've used a product called SuperSeal a few times. I wasn't impressed with it. Some guys may like it and even swear by it. I swore AT it. The old fashioned method is best, in my opinion: Find the leak and repair it. Weld it, tighten it up or replace the leaky component. There should only be two things inside a refrigeration circuit. Refrigerant and oil.
I assumed you pumped the refrigerant back into the compressor and locked it by screwing the valves down. Then I see you hooked up the manifold gauges up to the schrader valves. and I assume you hooked up a nitrogen tank on the yellow hose and opened it to create a high pressure. and when you found the leak, you had to relieve the pressure or you would not be able to weld the leak. I like the discussion of the factory charge + .6lb/ft of line. I am not sure how you knew the line distance.?
I assumed you pumped the refrigerant back into the compressor and locked it by screwing the valves down. Then I see you hooked up the manifold gauges up to the schrader valves. and I assume you hooked up a nitrogen tank on the yellow hose and opened it to create a high pressure. and when you found the leak, you had to relieve the pressure or you would not be able to weld the leak. I like the discussion of the factory charge + .6lb/ft of line. I am not sure how you knew the line distance.?
@freewoodencrosses The system was flat when I got to it. The entire charge escaped through that huge leak in the attic. I closed the service valves to pressure test the lines/coil because I knew the AC unit wasn't the source of the leak. The length of the lines can easily be measured. Our company did the original install so that number was on the bluebrints. Calculating .6oz/ft is easy when you've done it a few hundred times.
I am sure all you experienced guys understand this guy, but if he was trying to teach the apprentice, he goes way too fast and does not explain everything.
@Dadams14 I am guilty of not explaining everything thoroughly, if at all. It's true that I gear my videos toward the guys in the trade. I'm glad you pointed that out. I'll try to go a bit slower and include more detail in the future. Thanks for the comment!.
If one my guys didn't catch that leak while they were vacuuming the system and let go the charge and I had to go back and fix it I would be pretty pissed. We pressure check to 300 on most systems minimum 1 hour and when we are doing new Mitsubishi installs, I have my guys run the pressure to 600 overnight. If it's still holding the next day we evacuate and charge. I hate call backs and this solves that problem. Never had too much luck with electronic vacuum gauges, even with new gauge sets.
Looks pretty good to me.....just a few comments...You call it welding and the propper term would be Brazing. Soap bubble leak test is good, but for the final test the standing pressure test is not good enough.... U must use a good quality leak detector on the final leak test. Safety wise I hope you had a fire watch when you lit the torch in the attic and a means of containing a fire such fire exting.
I liked the comment on the valves at the unit most people back those valves all the way out.
We use a variety of terms for the brazing process. I rarely carry a fire extinguisher. I prefer a regular ole bottle of agua and a brazing blanket. I did use bubble soap for the final leak check. The sensing bulb and Rubatex was sealed up with plain duct tape. Air tight and very snug. Purging the hose is necessary unless you have a 4 port gauge set and you vacuum the hose connected to the refrigerant container.
I was told the other day by one of our dispatchers that some customers request me. They take pictures of my condenser move work and email them to the girls in the office. That's kinda flattering.
That's my demeanor. Loosing control of your mental faculties and yelling like a mad man is not productive. The louder someone's voice gets, the less I listen...
Almost all of the installers have an oxy/acetylene set-up. Helpers aren't required to have too much tooling. I carry a MAPP torch for brazing 3/8" and smaller copper as well as soft soldering water lines.
I have a pinhole leak on the center stub on the reversing valve on my heat pump. Would you just braze it to fix it or replace the reversing valve just because?
DVinoskey 1 month ago
Excellent video. You should try liquid snoop. It is alot more expensive than what you are using but it will show micro bubles which the product you are using is not capable of doing.
gwozhog 2 months ago
Yes!But you did not evacuate the system before you put the fire to it. You are lucky the place did not blow up.
MegaBull8 3 months ago
@MegaBull8 Don't be stupid,he was using nitrogen to pressure test, why would it blow up?
prkr314 2 weeks ago
easy money
TNTdabeast 4 months ago
Your shraeder was leaking because they didn't remove them while brazing. Probably didn't wrap the valves with a wet wash cloth either. Probably didn't run Nitrogen when brazing either. Losers they are.
mrsokla 5 months ago
Comment removed
mrsokla 5 months ago
Also sounded like he spit in the area he was in...gross
hvacdude32 5 months ago
@hokanut there's a charge in the bulb and you want the tit of that bulb up not down to boil off when its reading the line temperature...no nitrogen to prevent flaking or carbon(soot) hit doesn't know hvac well
hvacdude32 5 months ago
I love the smell of fozgene in the morning
hokanut 5 months ago
Good Mechanic! Was just wondering why we broke the vac. charging liq. into the suction side at the compressor. ME I go into the high side to avoid stinging the valves, or plates, once equalized, start the Compressor and finish, using the suction side, restricting the Liq. using the gauge set.
DoctorD9111 6 months ago
To add insult to injury. It looks like whoever installed this unit did not do a very good job at all, yes I said Goodman was junk, but it would sure help a little if it was installed right, heck the suction line is not even properly insulated LOL. Looks like a real dumb ass installed this thing, and that welding job looks left to be desired that the origional installer did.
theonemam 6 months ago
Well that says it all about Goodman units. They are pieces of JUNK! I installed a Janitrol several yrs back for a guy that wanted to say a few bucks, and right from the start it was junk, the blower assembly was laying in the bottom of the furnace un attached. When I got the a/c unit in there was no charge in it, added some gas to it, and discovered there was a big hole in the condenser coil. They sent me a new condenser, but even after I had to go out on 3 calls for one thing or other.
theonemam 6 months ago
@theonemam If Goodman is junk, why are they the only manufacturer that offers a 10 year warranty on just the condenser. Can't find that with Lennox, Carrier or Trane without buying a new evaporator too. I love em! I don't like the new Amana design though.
mrsokla 5 months ago
200 PSI Battery Operated Commercial Coil Cleaning System for a very affordable price, search for MaxiJet200 on youtube and watch the video
or go to maxi-vac.com
MaxiVacInc 6 months ago
i showed my students this video, and they pointed out everything you did wrong, txv bulb upside down, no drier installed, and r-22 added through the low side?? yep busch league!!!!!
hvacdude32 6 months ago
@hvacdude32 How can you put a txv bulb on upside down?
hokanut 5 months ago
Ummm drier anyone?
hvacdude32 6 months ago
What an idiot
hvacdude32 6 months ago
Hey dumbass!!! You left the the xv bulb upside down the tit of the bulb is supposed to be on top! !! R-22 upside down where s your restrictor on your gauges!! Stay out if Omaha your Busch league!! You don't know what your doing! !
hvacdude32 6 months ago
Good video content. useful
TheFlexSealReview 8 months ago
interesting torch your using there ding dong,not exactly one we even use in the hvac trade
somethingsseemobviou 8 months ago
interesting torch tour using there ding dong,not exactly one we even use in the hvac trade
somethingsseemobviou 8 months ago
i had a leaker today guess where it leaked right @the liquid line service valve new install im guessing overheating the valve and did not wrap it !!!!
MrLastyme 8 months ago
After adding the entire system charge to both sides, how long to wait before turning the system on?
ontariohvac 9 months ago
@ontariohvac I usually have a few things to gather up and put away. I use that time to power up the unit and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes. I don't have a set amount of time that I wait.
PutSome5tankOnIt 9 months ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt I would have thought there would still be liquid in the suction line. I may have to do this to a package unit this week and I don't want to blow the compressor.
ontariohvac 9 months ago
Thanks for the video. I know there are many opinions about pin hole repair, so I wanted to ask a pro. Is it ok to use Stay Bright solder, which has a much lower melting point, or 5% silver Harris to repair a pin hole leak in a evaporator? The reason I ask, is that I am concerned about using so much heat on the thin walled tubing of a evap. Heat weakens copper, and I think in R22 systems the pressure is low enough for StayBright. I repair rather than replace when possible/practical.
douglas787 9 months ago
@douglas787 StayBrite would probably work. I prefer brazing alloy and a 'cold' flame on the oxy-acetylene. It takes practice but the sil-phos isn't as likely to flow into (and fill) the tubing. Heat the pinhole and dab a bit of alloy over it. Use the small (almost a pinpoint) flame to barely melt it into the hole. Then, feather/spread the melting alloy around the perimeter of the repair area. The higher the silver content (15% is fantastic stuff!), the easier it is. Thanks for watching.
PutSome5tankOnIt 9 months ago
Wish they were all that easy, I will admit as soon as I seen the Goodman condensor the first initial thought was the evaporator had a leak. I have actually found leaks similar though on higher pressure systems such as R-410A systems due to installers applying either not enough heat to the joint or not enough braze.
Smarcum89 9 months ago
putsome5tankonit hope you are doing great iwas watching this video and when you added the refrigerant you just open the low side or both ? supose you have to add it by high side because is liquid right? or does'nt matter i mean just wonder probably people with your experience know more things that people without i just want to know the right way thanks nice video.
theASEtech 1 year ago
@theASEtech Thanks for watching and commenting. When adding the entire system charge, I dump it in on both sides. Saves time and the bulk of the charge entering the low side evaporates quickly, especially in the summer. Always charge AC's in cool mode, from the suction side... even on heat pumps. Head pressure is almost always higher than tank pressure when the system is running.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt I was taught to charge from both sides in school. Noticed you use the swab instead of the spray when leak checking. I like it for a more directed check but if you need to do a big area, do you use the spray?
blocksopiff 1 year ago
@blocksopiff I don't care for the spray bottle at all, except to spray into a tight area. I'll sweep a large area (like a coil) with my infrared leak detector. Lots of older leaks present with oil so they can be identified visually and pinpointed with a dauber applicator.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt Alright, I hear you. I'm about halfway through a 10 month program on this and I'm getting as much information as I can from techs in the field. I'll be honest, none of my instructors like the spray either. Most think it's a waste of time and money.
blocksopiff 1 year ago
@blocksopiff Good luck with the schooling. The real learning begins when you have to fix bad service work and installations. The spray bottle is 32oz. The can is 8oz. I carry the can in my tool bag.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt Yeah my troubleshooting teacher is a genius. He hard-wired faults into every system we have so you can simulate a fault, electrical or refrigerant, with the flip of a switch. I'm glad he did or we'd be screwed on learning this.
blocksopiff 1 year ago
Thanks. If you can't reclaim the charge, it's best to pump the unit down (recover charge to outdoor unit) and isolate each line and the indoor coil. Pressure test with nitrogen, at least 250PSI. Look for signs of oil at field braze connections and at the indoor coil. Check for oil around the outdoor coil, too. An electronic leak detector is helpful, especially the infrared type.
Always check service valves and ports first. You'd be amazed at how many leaks I've found in those areas.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
GOOD JOB BRO.....HEY I HAVE A QUESTION IF YOU CAN PLEASE HELP?...I DON'T HAVE A RECOVERY MACHINE SO I CAN'T RECOVER TO FIND A LEAK WITH NITROGEN...THE LINES SEEMS TO BE GOOD NO LEAKS AT ALL.TXV VALVE IS GOOD AND I'M THINKING THAT IT COULD BE THE CONDENSER COIL OR EVAP COIL..IS THERE ANYTHING FOR ME TO FIND IT OUT? IS COLD AROUND HERE N I'M CHARGING IT IN COLD WEATHER(this is a heat pump of course)..i charged this system right before it got cold...big leak but cant find it
catrachomg 1 year ago
it's always the installers
MrNilsanderson 1 year ago
@MrNilsanderson Lots of times, yes. I can't say that I've never left a leak behind when I was younger. We all learn from our mistakes. I prefer to learn from other peoples' mistakes whenever possible.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
I just enrolled in HVACR Technician school. Love the vids, and look forward to more. Thank you for your help, knowledge, & insight.
pitolove71 1 year ago
@pitolove71 It's a public service I provide. You're welcome.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt @PutSome5tankOnIt Idhobbs is correct. the sensing bulb is filled with liquid refrigerant. If you mount it upside down the liquid refrigerant will gravitate to the diaphragm of the TXV. In fact in ALL TXV instructions it recommends installing it in a horizontal position: Mount TXV sensing bulb using the clamp in kit box at 4 or 8 o’clock on a horizontal plane of the
suction line circumference <--from the Aspen coil website (YT wont let me post link)
Rooster55199 1 year ago
@Rooster55199 I saw no mention of the sensing bulb for the TXV being filled with liquid refrigerant or the risk of migration on Aspen's web site (nor any other TXV manufacturer's site). No mention of mercury, either. I can appreciate the horizontal installation (and clock location) being the preferred method. I respectfully disagree with your assertions. Feel free to debate with DrZarkloff. I consulted with him (among others) and he agrees with me.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt From the "Preparing for the NATE exam" book (Air Conditioning and Heat pumps), Page 47: "The refrigerant in a liquid-charged bulb/vapor charged bulb matches the refrigerant that is in the refrigeration system. Liquid is always present in the bulb and the refrigerant inside always follows the corresponding pressure temprature relationship of the system.
This is not debatable, all the books, manufactures installation instructions, all say the same thing. It is a proven science.
Rooster55199 1 year ago
@Rooster55199 I still disagree, especially with newer TXVs. I have accidentally broken the capillary for the sensing bulb on a BRAND NEW expansion valve and didn't see ANY liquid refrigerant leak escape. Even if the bulb was mounted horizontally, would't a liquid charge migrate DOWN to a TXV mounted on a lower plane?
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt, Better yet, don't take my word for it, contact a manufacture:
Danfoss Phone: (410) 931-8250
Aspen Coils Ph. 714.904.8458
Rooster55199 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt LOL!! and you are informing people as a public service? Your knowledge of pressure and temperatures should tell you why there was no liquid coming out of the broken cap tube. Bulbs must have liquid present inside throughout their design range.
NOmeansnoFAN 1 year ago
@NOmeansnoFAN No broken cap tube. The leak was on the suction line connection to the evaporator coil. The TXV wasn't the problem.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
the sensing bulb is upside down
ldhobbs 1 year ago
@ldhobbs You're not the first to tell me that. I checked with a few techs and all of them said it doesn't matter on a vertical suction line. If you have a link to a technical site that says otherwise, I'd be more than happy to read it. Thanks for the comment!
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt I have the info in a class manuel from where I went to school, but could really find the info online. But what the book says is that the bulb is filled with gas (sometimes Mercury) which is what gets hot and expands to operate the TXV and if placed upside down the gas will not stay in the bulb and will run into the line making the bulb useless.
ldhobbs 1 year ago
ah thanks
fastzombie1 1 year ago
I'm not an Hvac tech but what does the sensing bulb do?
fastzombie1 1 year ago
@fastzombie1 The sensing bulb monitors the temperature of the refrigerant line and 'tells' the expansion valve how much refrigerant flow to allow into the evaporator coil.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
you still installed the sensing bulb incorrectly. thats just as bad as complaining about the welding and comments made about the person that did the welding. if you are so good you should know the proper way to install a sensing buld. CAP TUBE UP.
acguy1775 1 year ago
@acguy1775 I was recently made aware of that preferred configuration! I scratched my head a few times because NO ONE had ever taught me (professionals included) of the difference in horizontal and vertical applications. Thank you for pointing that out!
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
HEY!!! Can you mumble less?
seanseanseanseansean 1 year ago
@seanseanseanseansean I sure can!!! But that wouldn't be my style. I certainly appreciate you noticing my flaws. I also have chronic sinus issues due to years and years of working in dusty, fiberglass-filled attics and inhaling my fair share of asbestos. It's a labor of love that I wouldn't change for all the money in the world.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
Change the weight of "the bottle" by inverting it on the scale????? Huh???? Is this what they are teaching in tech school now???
FF034 1 year ago
@FF034 The bottle was inverted while weighing in the charge. I tilted it a bit to close the valve. That changed the tension on the hose and thus, how much the scale thought the bottle weighed. I should've explained that more concisely. Thanks for picking up on that.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
now i got it
Thanks so MUCH
good videos keep upload more please ...
Thanks again looking forward ...........
apnaconstruction 1 year ago
U call that in this video (5:32) DA suction manifold u said Little crown top valve .....
Thats i want know what is that ??
why u open or close
what is that for >>??
when u add R22 freon is that should be Open or Close ??
thanks
apnaconstruction 1 year ago
@apnaconstruction OH!!! I know what you're talking about now. That DA service valve does not have a flat profile on top of the lug. It's an unusual design. It shouldn't be fully front-seated (open). DA has since added an o-ring to the service valve cap design. I still leave the crown below the body of the valve.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
Thanks so Much For your Reply
one More Question Please if u can explain .
What is Crack back seat off ????
what is is front seat ??
u know why tech open and close
am new in HVAC so please try to understand me if am wrong..
Thanks
apnaconstruction 1 year ago
@apnaconstruction I've never questioned what I was taught about front-seat and back-seat positions of service valves (and gauge sets) when I was younger. Front-seat is fully open. Back-seat is fully closed. I may be wrong. 'Cracking' the seat is a reference to opening refrigerant, oxygen and acetylene bottles. Partially opening these bottles is usually more than adequate. Cracking the seat of the suction port on your gauges serves to meter the flow of refrigerant into a running AC system.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
when u add R22 rite
Why some Tech crack back seat off and suction side open to mid Position
is That Important ?
OK
If i add R22 or ANY refrigerant should i crack open back seat and open front seat ( i meant suction side)
thanks for reply
apnaconstruction 1 year ago
@apnaconstruction Adding refrigerant to a system that is running is done from the suction side. I add the complete charge to an empty system from both sides... just get the refrigerant into the system as quickly as I can.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
what is 16 ?
when u divide 98/16=6.1pund
my Q what is # 16 where u get it what is that
is the same # 16 u have divide with any type AC unit
i have 48oz i can say add 15oz for line if am divided with same #16
so i got 48+15=68 <<~~ is this GOOD # ?
Thanks
apnaconstruction 1 year ago
@apnaconstruction It's close enough. I don't really divide by 16. I divide by 8, then divide by 2. I can do that in my head.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
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I put a brand new (york) unit 2 years ago and now there a leak,the guy who installed it came and looked for the leak in all welds,inside and outside ,around the compressor,still cant find it,he says that it can be in the coil above the furnace,and said i to change it,and the warranty was only a year so im out of luck,do u think hes right.
FIGGY909 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I put a brand new (york) unit 2 years ago and now there a leak,the guy who installed it came and looked for the leak in all welds,inside and outside ,around the compressor,still cant find it,he says that it can be in the coil above the furnace,and said i to change it,and the warranty was only a year so im out of luck,do u think hes right.
FIGGY909 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I put a brand new (york) unit 2 years ago and now there a leak,the guy who installed it came and looked for the leak in all welds,inside and outside ,around the compressor,still cant find it,he says that it can be in the coil above the furnace,and said i to change it,and the warranty was only a year so im out of luck,do u think hes right.
FIGGY909 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I put a brand new (york) unit 2 years ago and now there a leak,the guy who installed it came and looked for the leak in all welds,inside and outside ,around the compressor,still cant find it,he says that it can be in the coil above the furnace,and said i to change it,and the warranty was only a year so im out of luck,do u think hes right.
FIGGY909 1 year ago
After you recharged the system by weight differential, did you follow-up by measuring subcool and/or superheat and reference that to RAT/OAT chart?
btew13 1 year ago
for small leaks does LEAK STOP work? If so whcih do you recommend
KevinCarrollCoyle 1 year ago
@KevinCarrollCoyle I've used a product called SuperSeal a few times. I wasn't impressed with it. Some guys may like it and even swear by it. I swore AT it. The old fashioned method is best, in my opinion: Find the leak and repair it. Weld it, tighten it up or replace the leaky component. There should only be two things inside a refrigeration circuit. Refrigerant and oil.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
Great video
hondagoal 1 year ago
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I assumed you pumped the refrigerant back into the compressor and locked it by screwing the valves down. Then I see you hooked up the manifold gauges up to the schrader valves. and I assume you hooked up a nitrogen tank on the yellow hose and opened it to create a high pressure. and when you found the leak, you had to relieve the pressure or you would not be able to weld the leak. I like the discussion of the factory charge + .6lb/ft of line. I am not sure how you knew the line distance.?
freewoodencrosses 1 year ago
I assumed you pumped the refrigerant back into the compressor and locked it by screwing the valves down. Then I see you hooked up the manifold gauges up to the schrader valves. and I assume you hooked up a nitrogen tank on the yellow hose and opened it to create a high pressure. and when you found the leak, you had to relieve the pressure or you would not be able to weld the leak. I like the discussion of the factory charge + .6lb/ft of line. I am not sure how you knew the line distance.?
freewoodencrosses 1 year ago
@freewoodencrosses The system was flat when I got to it. The entire charge escaped through that huge leak in the attic. I closed the service valves to pressure test the lines/coil because I knew the AC unit wasn't the source of the leak. The length of the lines can easily be measured. Our company did the original install so that number was on the bluebrints. Calculating .6oz/ft is easy when you've done it a few hundred times.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
I am sure all you experienced guys understand this guy, but if he was trying to teach the apprentice, he goes way too fast and does not explain everything.
I did appreciate the effort though.
Thanks
Dadams14 1 year ago
@Dadams14 I am guilty of not explaining everything thoroughly, if at all. It's true that I gear my videos toward the guys in the trade. I'm glad you pointed that out. I'll try to go a bit slower and include more detail in the future. Thanks for the comment!.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
If one my guys didn't catch that leak while they were vacuuming the system and let go the charge and I had to go back and fix it I would be pretty pissed. We pressure check to 300 on most systems minimum 1 hour and when we are doing new Mitsubishi installs, I have my guys run the pressure to 600 overnight. If it's still holding the next day we evacuate and charge. I hate call backs and this solves that problem. Never had too much luck with electronic vacuum gauges, even with new gauge sets.
Saillar 2 years ago
What was the stuff you used to seal the black armaflex around the sensing bulb?
Budroe1000 under EPA guidlines purging your gages is leagel under a deminims clause in the EPA guidlines.
JSegina 2 years ago
Looks pretty good to me.....just a few comments...You call it welding and the propper term would be Brazing. Soap bubble leak test is good, but for the final test the standing pressure test is not good enough.... U must use a good quality leak detector on the final leak test. Safety wise I hope you had a fire watch when you lit the torch in the attic and a means of containing a fire such fire exting.
I liked the comment on the valves at the unit most people back those valves all the way out.
JSegina 2 years ago
We use a variety of terms for the brazing process. I rarely carry a fire extinguisher. I prefer a regular ole bottle of agua and a brazing blanket. I did use bubble soap for the final leak check. The sensing bulb and Rubatex was sealed up with plain duct tape. Air tight and very snug. Purging the hose is necessary unless you have a 4 port gauge set and you vacuum the hose connected to the refrigerant container.
PutSome5tankOnIt 2 years ago
KNOWINGLY VENTING LOL
budroe1000 2 years ago
LOL... You can come to my house anyday! Have a good one
overdalimit 2 years ago
I was told the other day by one of our dispatchers that some customers request me. They take pictures of my condenser move work and email them to the girls in the office. That's kinda flattering.
PutSome5tankOnIt 2 years ago
LMAO..... I like how this guy is talking about the dude that installed the system in the first place and how calm he is.... Good job!
overdalimit 2 years ago
That's my demeanor. Loosing control of your mental faculties and yelling like a mad man is not productive. The louder someone's voice gets, the less I listen...
PutSome5tankOnIt 2 years ago
Dose your company have a welder or do the installers solder in the linesets.
lvnick666 2 years ago
Almost all of the installers have an oxy/acetylene set-up. Helpers aren't required to have too much tooling. I carry a MAPP torch for brazing 3/8" and smaller copper as well as soft soldering water lines.
PutSome5tankOnIt 2 years ago
was system using a TXV metering device ?
FireConvoy88 2 years ago
I honestly don't remember. In all likelihood, it did.
PutSome5tankOnIt 2 years ago
Thanks. I thought I might've included too much detail. Maybe not.
PutSome5tankOnIt 2 years ago
Very good video :) :)
mikie2501 2 years ago