ok, as you may have noticed by my 'icon/avitar/ picture thingy' im working a gun project. a blunderbuss to be "spacific"...i do NOT want to shell out huge $ to get aquafortis to give this curly maple stock what it actually deserves. any suggetions for yet another guy on a budget? (ive considered using birchwoodcasey gun blueing, since it has nitric acid in it, but not sure of concentration and how the cupric acid would work out) thanks :)
@drason69 that's a bit out of my wheel house. But the methods shown in this video are fairly inexpensive. Should work quite will with any curly stock.
Did you say "jatoba" for the dark wood? I am currently building a guitar out of jatoba I have left over from a secretariat I built... Extremely heavy, dense wood.... Will have a quilted maple top that I will pop with black leather dye, sand, and then stain either blue or green....
now i want to make a cutting board... but i cant sand the top because of the stain so i didnt want to use stain. but im also on a budget for a dark wood. any ideas
@K22productions Well I definitely wouldn't use a stain on anything food-related. Walnut is probably your best bet, but that's not going to be very budget friendly unfortunately.
Is there any way to make it look extremely wet after the finish is complete? When you first applied the varnish it looked very glossy, but afterwards, when you compared the two pieces of wood, it wasn't quite as glossy. How would you get the finish extremely glossy?
@SCrawford4 You would have to use a regular gloss formula, build up numerous coats, and then polish the heck out of it to bring it to a deep piano-like finish.
you learn this in woodshop. nothing spech about it. pop'n the grain. should have went alot darker stain. black or dark oak for example. sanded down to take it off, (leaving the endgrain.) and then going over with the vint maple.
Well nothing special if you already know it. But I would guess that most folks, like me, did NOT take wood shop. Also, I agree that a darker dye would give a more intense pop. But that's not what I was going for. I wanted mind to be a bit more subtle.
Some say the oil-based varnish gives you al ittle more "depth" because it soaks in and absorbs deeper into the fibers. But I have seen some lacquered projects that just shimmer like jewelry. So I would say the difference would be pretty hard to detect and I wouldn't hesitate to use nitrocellulose on a "popped" project..
You know, Im not a real big fan of colored varnish, especially if the goal is to pop the grain. But I do know folks who have had luck with it on standard furniture projects. But for me personally, I would say it is my least preferred method for adding color.
very nice!
ok, as you may have noticed by my 'icon/avitar/ picture thingy' im working a gun project. a blunderbuss to be "spacific"...i do NOT want to shell out huge $ to get aquafortis to give this curly maple stock what it actually deserves. any suggetions for yet another guy on a budget? (ive considered using birchwoodcasey gun blueing, since it has nitric acid in it, but not sure of concentration and how the cupric acid would work out) thanks :)
drason69 2 months ago
@drason69 that's a bit out of my wheel house. But the methods shown in this video are fairly inexpensive. Should work quite will with any curly stock.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 months ago
Did you say "jatoba" for the dark wood? I am currently building a guitar out of jatoba I have left over from a secretariat I built... Extremely heavy, dense wood.... Will have a quilted maple top that I will pop with black leather dye, sand, and then stain either blue or green....
81DeathPunch 2 months ago
every time I watch I learn a little more . finally You Tube has a purpose
wheelnut53 4 months ago
Thanks I googled my way here and just in time I was going to use a gas torch to scorch my plywood so glad I saw this much simpler and cheaper
wheelnut53 5 months ago
could I use the Oil/Varnish recipe to finish a chest of drawers? if so is it ok to use on the top where it will take the most abuse? Thanks
pantface1 6 months ago
@pantface1 sure. Its not the most protective finish but for most interior furniture it should be ok.
TheWoodWhisperer 6 months ago
now i want to make a cutting board... but i cant sand the top because of the stain so i didnt want to use stain. but im also on a budget for a dark wood. any ideas
K22productions 6 months ago
@K22productions Well I definitely wouldn't use a stain on anything food-related. Walnut is probably your best bet, but that's not going to be very budget friendly unfortunately.
TheWoodWhisperer 6 months ago
What is an inexpensive dark wood... walnut can be pretty expensive and staining would be difficult for my project
K22productions 6 months ago
@K22productions well, you might try something like alder with a little stain or dye. Looks just like walnut when its colored properly.
TheWoodWhisperer 6 months ago
Is there any way to make it look extremely wet after the finish is complete? When you first applied the varnish it looked very glossy, but afterwards, when you compared the two pieces of wood, it wasn't quite as glossy. How would you get the finish extremely glossy?
SCrawford4 1 year ago
@SCrawford4 You would have to use a regular gloss formula, build up numerous coats, and then polish the heck out of it to bring it to a deep piano-like finish.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
Eye of newt dried dragon scales lets see wheres that troll toe nails oh here they are.
spudzdad1 1 year ago
Would mixing a few drops of a wood stain into the shellac achieve the same effect?
Callanbassplayer 1 year ago
@Callanbassplayer Only if the stain is alcohol soluble.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
you learn this in woodshop. nothing spech about it. pop'n the grain. should have went alot darker stain. black or dark oak for example. sanded down to take it off, (leaving the endgrain.) and then going over with the vint maple.
MrGrumpyGinger 2 years ago
Well nothing special if you already know it. But I would guess that most folks, like me, did NOT take wood shop. Also, I agree that a darker dye would give a more intense pop. But that's not what I was going for. I wanted mind to be a bit more subtle.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago 4
What color was the dye that you used?
Chezzabassist 2 years ago
Vintage Maple
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
did you say shatoyance at about 4:00
and if so is that yiddish for wow factor?
woodypato 2 years ago
i noticed he did not sand with the grain... was this intended?
talkindrum 2 years ago
Actually I did sand with the grain. What you might be seeing is the figure pattern, which runs perpendicular to the grain.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
Would the same effect occur if you sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer rather than varnish?
iVai777 2 years ago
Some say the oil-based varnish gives you al ittle more "depth" because it soaks in and absorbs deeper into the fibers. But I have seen some lacquered projects that just shimmer like jewelry. So I would say the difference would be pretty hard to detect and I wouldn't hesitate to use nitrocellulose on a "popped" project..
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
You know, Im not a real big fan of colored varnish, especially if the goal is to pop the grain. But I do know folks who have had luck with it on standard furniture projects. But for me personally, I would say it is my least preferred method for adding color.
TheWoodWhisperer 3 years ago
what do you think of using a coloured varnish?
dafdsafdaf 3 years ago
Yes. Its an oil-based varnish.
TheWoodWhisperer 3 years ago
what exactly was the topcoat. i mean what type of finish was it (did you say oil)?
drakiepoo 3 years ago
That's correct. Its a wiping varnish.
TheWoodWhisperer 3 years ago
when you show the formula to make varnish, is that to make wipe on varnish?
alianne 3 years ago
I have always wondered how that was done. I'm going to try it. Keep up the great work!
emtpilot 4 years ago