Thanks for the comment. Good point Pre-heating molds on smaller or more detailed castings is a must! This vidio was intended for folks whom have never cast metals and are intrested in inexpensive (home recipe) casting sand. I would like to do a vidio on silicone molds and lost wax. Perhaps I will soon.
enjoyed video. don't you heat molds to reduce premature cooling and porosity of casting? Also those extra vents help to avoid "bubbles". As a reply to plbuster, this process was going on in ancient Egypt and dates to the Bronze Age. Anyway, yours is one of the better videos on subject. Have you ever tried investment or "lost wax" casting, that is where you make a wax sculpture of object, pour sand mixed with plaster around it, melt out wax then pour metal? I've done it on more complex objects.
I noticed on other videos that two holes are drilled, I assume this makes it breath, and eliminates the vacuum effect, and allows the aluminum to get all the way through the mold. Awesome work, I have never tried this personally. You make it look very easy!
Thanks for the comment. The small holes that you refer to are probably vents used to release trapped air in the sand mold. Venting will insure that the cavity will fill all the way, and give a quality reproduction.
I just built my foundry off of myfordboy's model but now im trying to find the right sand to make my molds with. I live in texas what kind of sand should i use to make my molds and where can I get it? Also price range?
I noticed you had troubles with your mold staying together. Ram you mold up with more force and watch you mixture, that will help you get much more predictable results. The mixture that I liked the best was the true green sand: no oil just clay, sand and water. Watch your water though.
T hanks for the info, I only use this for aluminum. I maintain a mixer full of oil base, sometimes there is too much oil (like this day in the video) It will burn down as the day goes on, and then a non issue. I will be casting iron next week , I will be using western bentonite sand and water for this. I used this to show that a Mullor is not not a "pre rec" for home foundary work.
Hi panzuman I really dont have a definate recipie.
I started out with about 2 times the weight of sand as clay, then added amsoil 2 cycle injector oil slowly while mixing in a cement mixer. Mix well and break the clods in the mixer (dont forget to turn off mixer) When you can compress a handfull and leave handprints in the sand, and break the handfull clean across it is ready. Add sand or clay if it sticks to your hand. One quart oil will mix approx 150 lbs.
Hi NfldBiker I am in central Missouri . My furnace body has a 10" bore and 2 1/2" thick walls and is 12" tall, both, lid and ,top are 2" thick and 15" diameter. Total with lids installed it's 16" tall It takes 2 1/2 bags of high temp castable refractory to reproduce. Make sure to make ahole in both top and bottom, in order to vent the exhaust on top, and to drain the crucible out the botton when it fails. A 1" plinth will work well if the burner is 2" from the bottom.
Hey Leonard, long time no type. Well, I'm back at it again. Anyhow, I finally broke down and took the dust from my wallet and bought a decent propane regulator. I have all the materials ready for a furnace but now that i see yours, i want to build it the same size. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. BTW, where in the U.S. are you?
Hi LinojiJei In this vidio I am using a home-made steel crucible. I used 12" of 6" schedule 40 black steel pipe, and 1/4" steel plate welded to the bottom. This is fine for most aluminum pours, although, my experience is that all crucibles WILL FAIL in time. I have a clay crucible for brass, and a silicon carbide crucible for iron. It is best not to expose any crucible to a direct blast from the burner.
hey hows it going Leonard, great video...iam just learning about casting, and i want to cast bullets, mainly M-16's, not for personal use but just to make belts and necklaces and stuff, would i use the same process you used is this video or is there a different way to go about it? thanks..
Hi mokuni Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I have been out of town. What type of metal will you be using? If it will be brass, then you may consider investment casting, there will be a lot better finish than achievable with sand casting. Let me know if I can help
Hey Leonard..Im just startin' to cast tattoo machine frames(i bought a ex-school crucible) and i was wondering what the difference is between a sand/bentonite and water mix and a sand/bentonite and oil mix? also you said 10 pounds of sand to 20 of bentonite is this the same for water mix?has ive read 10% bentonite to 90% sand?...excellent video! keep up the good work!!!!!!
Hi seanhuch69, The biggest advantage that I can see between the two are the need for a"mullor" when recycling the water mix, it is not needed for the oil bond sand mix. The recipie posted here is very forgiving. (it is easy to work with) My navy foundary manual says for aluminum (% by weight) 97% sand 3%bentonite. 5.5% water, has green strength of 5-10 psi 50-100 permeability casting weight up to 200lbs (not so forgiving) Let me know if this helps
Oops, I just read below and I think i have the answer to my "problem." I think I didn't use enough clay in the mixture. I'll report the new findings in a couple of days. Thanks again!
EUREKA! Well, almost! I'm close, very close to having the greensand just right. I followed your advice and cast a couple of pewter things just to see the detail and reaction. The sand mold looked great but after the pour cooled, there was a lot of "pitting" which Ii assume was caused by too much moisture right? Thanks again for the help and quick replies to my questions. Send me your address and I'll mail you out a cool little "biker thing" I'll be casting soon enough.
Thanks for the reply to my post. I have another question though, although i noticed in the comments below you have already touched on it, BUT, the "recipe" for your greensand is screwing me up a little. When you refer to white sand, does that mean silica sand? What about the Bentonite clay? I've heard the clumping kitty litter is Bentonite clay and also works for sandcasting. Also, how do you know if you have the right "moisture" content in the recipe? Thanks in advance.
Yes silica sand, although any clean sand (no rocks or organic matter) will work just fine. Kitty litteris too course. MFA feed stores sell food grade bentonite powder 50# for $8.00 so it is not worth grinding kitty litter. You want just enough oil to be able to compress a dry clump in your hand, if it sticks to your hand add bentonite or sand. Let me know if I can be any help.
That was likely the easiest video and instructions I've seen so far on the net! If this is "Hill-Billy" casting, then brother, I'm a hill-billy too because THIS video showed me why I'm having a hard time because of the steps I've been leaving out. Thanks a million for sharing this with us. Now I need to make this greensand as per your instructions above. Do you have a website? Thanks again! Respect!
Hi NfldBiker I don't have a website, although I do try to respond to questions from Youtube. I too become frustrated when trying to learn from the web. It has been my experience that there are folks out there that intentionally complicate or outright misrepresent things in order to relieve the unknowing (myself) of a portion of the next paycheck! Worse yet, sometimes the info is pure BS! Oh well, ask if you think I can help.
i have a hell of a time removing patterns, but i'm guessing after seeing this that i may be ramming them too tight? i didnt think that was possible, but like you, i am using a home brew of sand clay and oil so maybe i have to rethink my ratios! thanks for the vid, and explaining the fustrations of home casting! nice job!!
Hi pulppeeler It has been my experience that if your sand will compress by hand (and leave hand prints or fingerprints) and if you use talc or parting dust, the cores usually come out fine as long as everything is properly tapered, and you dont wobble (like I often do). Also it helps for the core to be painted with enough coats of oil base paint to be slick. wax helps too.
I dont have a standard recipie, but, Approxamatly 10 puonds of white sand, 20 pounds bentonite clay, mix well and start adding Amsoil 2 cycle injector oil, If you can get a small cement mixer, "barrell type"
Drill about 1/8" hole in top of oil, add a small amount at a time and mix well. When a handfull will compress solid, and break clean it will work. Not enough sand it will not vent well, and too much oil, and you have mud. It is reusable so if you need, just add sand,clay,oil.
Something that small should be done with an RTV mold.
woodbinedrinker 2 months ago
Hi cleoshepardchou
Thanks for the comment. Good point Pre-heating molds on smaller or more detailed castings is a must! This vidio was intended for folks whom have never cast metals and are intrested in inexpensive (home recipe) casting sand. I would like to do a vidio on silicone molds and lost wax. Perhaps I will soon.
Thanks
lhester2003 3 months ago
enjoyed video. don't you heat molds to reduce premature cooling and porosity of casting? Also those extra vents help to avoid "bubbles". As a reply to plbuster, this process was going on in ancient Egypt and dates to the Bronze Age. Anyway, yours is one of the better videos on subject. Have you ever tried investment or "lost wax" casting, that is where you make a wax sculpture of object, pour sand mixed with plaster around it, melt out wax then pour metal? I've done it on more complex objects.
cleoshepardchou 3 months ago
I noticed on other videos that two holes are drilled, I assume this makes it breath, and eliminates the vacuum effect, and allows the aluminum to get all the way through the mold. Awesome work, I have never tried this personally. You make it look very easy!
scottiblasto 5 months ago
@scottiblasto Hi scottblasto
Thanks for the comment. The small holes that you refer to are probably vents used to release trapped air in the sand mold. Venting will insure that the cavity will fill all the way, and give a quality reproduction.
Thanks Leonard
lhester2003 5 months ago
Hey....sand casting ain't "hilbilly reproduction". It has been going on for hundreds of years all over the world.
plbuster 9 months ago
I just built my foundry off of myfordboy's model but now im trying to find the right sand to make my molds with. I live in texas what kind of sand should i use to make my molds and where can I get it? Also price range?
Truthhurts3pm 1 year ago
@Truthhurts3pm .
Hi I am using silica sand (white sand). I have purchased it locally from Ace Hardware.
Good Luck
lhester2003 1 year ago
@lhester2003 Okay Awesome thank you! Keep up the good work!
Truthhurts3pm 1 year ago
i been making molds for over 20 years and have never heard of using oil we use water
brassman1257 1 year ago
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malkamanjali 1 year ago
can you explain how to make the furnace and everything needed to melt the alluminum. another video possbily. good video and enjoy watching
louthedo 1 year ago
I'm a newbie and I really appreciate the video, thanks !!
systemBuilder 1 year ago
ik,geloof,ik,begryp,iets,niet,over,wie,de,mensen,zyn
mollysangelique 1 year ago
ik,geloof,ik,begryp,iets,niet
mollysangelique 1 year ago
i always put 2 holes in my molds, 1 for the metal to go in and 1 for the air to escape
gunmetalcharger08 1 year ago
Thumbs up for never yelling "Get 'er done!"
I also found it quite nice that you are making videos to help the newbies (like myself) to "not get discouraged" Thanks!!
jsnsykes 1 year ago
Man, that's so me neat stuff. can't wait to get my own property so I can mess around a bit with foundry toys.
chaostoy 1 year ago
I noticed you had troubles with your mold staying together. Ram you mold up with more force and watch you mixture, that will help you get much more predictable results. The mixture that I liked the best was the true green sand: no oil just clay, sand and water. Watch your water though.
MrAnvilman 2 years ago
Hi MrAnvilman
T hanks for the info, I only use this for aluminum. I maintain a mixer full of oil base, sometimes there is too much oil (like this day in the video) It will burn down as the day goes on, and then a non issue. I will be casting iron next week , I will be using western bentonite sand and water for this. I used this to show that a Mullor is not not a "pre rec" for home foundary work.
Thanks
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 2 years ago
Why do you use a plate between the cope and the drag? I've never seen it done that way before.
RustyCarnahan 2 years ago
what are the ratios for your sand?
panzuman 2 years ago
Hi panzuman I really dont have a definate recipie.
I started out with about 2 times the weight of sand as clay, then added amsoil 2 cycle injector oil slowly while mixing in a cement mixer. Mix well and break the clods in the mixer (dont forget to turn off mixer) When you can compress a handfull and leave handprints in the sand, and break the handfull clean across it is ready. Add sand or clay if it sticks to your hand. One quart oil will mix approx 150 lbs.
Good luck
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 2 years ago
How is it to make sure the wood is the same as the real thing?
abcd122 2 years ago
when i was in under graduation i use to do this ....thanks
Srinivas2malyala 2 years ago
great job man ,
wrightmachineworks 2 years ago
Hi thecustomart11 In this vidio, I am using aluminum. I purchased it from a local auto salvage .
lhester2003 2 years ago
Hi NfldBiker I am in central Missouri . My furnace body has a 10" bore and 2 1/2" thick walls and is 12" tall, both, lid and ,top are 2" thick and 15" diameter. Total with lids installed it's 16" tall It takes 2 1/2 bags of high temp castable refractory to reproduce. Make sure to make ahole in both top and bottom, in order to vent the exhaust on top, and to drain the crucible out the botton when it fails. A 1" plinth will work well if the burner is 2" from the bottom.
later dude
lhester2003 2 years ago
Hey Leonard, long time no type. Well, I'm back at it again. Anyhow, I finally broke down and took the dust from my wallet and bought a decent propane regulator. I have all the materials ready for a furnace but now that i see yours, i want to build it the same size. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. BTW, where in the U.S. are you?
Respect!
LKL
NfldBiker 2 years ago
If your temps are that high, I reccomend clay, or turning the temps down.
chaz706 2 years ago
Heey.. I would like to know was crucible you are using. Because last time i tried with mine i melted away.
LinojiJei 2 years ago
Hi LinojiJei In this vidio I am using a home-made steel crucible. I used 12" of 6" schedule 40 black steel pipe, and 1/4" steel plate welded to the bottom. This is fine for most aluminum pours, although, my experience is that all crucibles WILL FAIL in time. I have a clay crucible for brass, and a silicon carbide crucible for iron. It is best not to expose any crucible to a direct blast from the burner.
Good luck, and be carefull.
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 2 years ago
Heey again.. Thank for that..
I would try that. But the "burner" i use heats up to 5000° C and is kind a hard to control. But I will try the steel one.
LinojiJei 2 years ago
Don't try the steel one! It will melt at those temps!
chaz706 2 years ago
What should I then use?
LinojiJei 2 years ago
hey hows it going Leonard, great video...iam just learning about casting, and i want to cast bullets, mainly M-16's, not for personal use but just to make belts and necklaces and stuff, would i use the same process you used is this video or is there a different way to go about it? thanks..
mokuni 2 years ago
Hi mokuni Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I have been out of town. What type of metal will you be using? If it will be brass, then you may consider investment casting, there will be a lot better finish than achievable with sand casting. Let me know if I can help
Sincerely
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 2 years ago
Hey Leonard..Im just startin' to cast tattoo machine frames(i bought a ex-school crucible) and i was wondering what the difference is between a sand/bentonite and water mix and a sand/bentonite and oil mix? also you said 10 pounds of sand to 20 of bentonite is this the same for water mix?has ive read 10% bentonite to 90% sand?...excellent video! keep up the good work!!!!!!
seanhutch69 2 years ago
Hi seanhuch69, The biggest advantage that I can see between the two are the need for a"mullor" when recycling the water mix, it is not needed for the oil bond sand mix. The recipie posted here is very forgiving. (it is easy to work with) My navy foundary manual says for aluminum (% by weight) 97% sand 3%bentonite. 5.5% water, has green strength of 5-10 psi 50-100 permeability casting weight up to 200lbs (not so forgiving) Let me know if this helps
Good luck
leonard hester
lhester2003 2 years ago
Oops, I just read below and I think i have the answer to my "problem." I think I didn't use enough clay in the mixture. I'll report the new findings in a couple of days. Thanks again!
Respect!
LKL
NfldBiker 2 years ago
Hi NfldBiker See what I mean. You pour, and learn! You are right, add clay.
Keep on keepin on, and good luck with your projects.
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 2 years ago
EUREKA! Well, almost! I'm close, very close to having the greensand just right. I followed your advice and cast a couple of pewter things just to see the detail and reaction. The sand mold looked great but after the pour cooled, there was a lot of "pitting" which Ii assume was caused by too much moisture right? Thanks again for the help and quick replies to my questions. Send me your address and I'll mail you out a cool little "biker thing" I'll be casting soon enough.
Respect!
LKL
NfldBiker 2 years ago
Thanks for the reply to my post. I have another question though, although i noticed in the comments below you have already touched on it, BUT, the "recipe" for your greensand is screwing me up a little. When you refer to white sand, does that mean silica sand? What about the Bentonite clay? I've heard the clumping kitty litter is Bentonite clay and also works for sandcasting. Also, how do you know if you have the right "moisture" content in the recipe? Thanks in advance.
NfldBiker 2 years ago
Hi NfldBiker
Yes silica sand, although any clean sand (no rocks or organic matter) will work just fine. Kitty litteris too course. MFA feed stores sell food grade bentonite powder 50# for $8.00 so it is not worth grinding kitty litter. You want just enough oil to be able to compress a dry clump in your hand, if it sticks to your hand add bentonite or sand. Let me know if I can be any help.
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 2 years ago
That was likely the easiest video and instructions I've seen so far on the net! If this is "Hill-Billy" casting, then brother, I'm a hill-billy too because THIS video showed me why I'm having a hard time because of the steps I've been leaving out. Thanks a million for sharing this with us. Now I need to make this greensand as per your instructions above. Do you have a website? Thanks again! Respect!
NfldBiker 2 years ago
Hi NfldBiker I don't have a website, although I do try to respond to questions from Youtube. I too become frustrated when trying to learn from the web. It has been my experience that there are folks out there that intentionally complicate or outright misrepresent things in order to relieve the unknowing (myself) of a portion of the next paycheck! Worse yet, sometimes the info is pure BS! Oh well, ask if you think I can help.
Sincerely
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 2 years ago
i have a hell of a time removing patterns, but i'm guessing after seeing this that i may be ramming them too tight? i didnt think that was possible, but like you, i am using a home brew of sand clay and oil so maybe i have to rethink my ratios! thanks for the vid, and explaining the fustrations of home casting! nice job!!
pulppeeler 3 years ago
Hi pulppeeler It has been my experience that if your sand will compress by hand (and leave hand prints or fingerprints) and if you use talc or parting dust, the cores usually come out fine as long as everything is properly tapered, and you dont wobble (like I often do). Also it helps for the core to be painted with enough coats of oil base paint to be slick. wax helps too.
Keep on keepin on and good luck!
Sincerely
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 3 years ago
What kind of oil do you use in the sand and how much?
Cyf531 3 years ago
Hi Cyf531
I dont have a standard recipie, but, Approxamatly 10 puonds of white sand, 20 pounds bentonite clay, mix well and start adding Amsoil 2 cycle injector oil, If you can get a small cement mixer, "barrell type"
Drill about 1/8" hole in top of oil, add a small amount at a time and mix well. When a handfull will compress solid, and break clean it will work. Not enough sand it will not vent well, and too much oil, and you have mud. It is reusable so if you need, just add sand,clay,oil.
lhester2003 3 years ago
hey dude that was great
Carlmiel 3 years ago
Thanks man, I am relly starting to enjoy this "do something odd and put it on youtube" thing. Stay tuned, more odd to come!
Thanks again
Leonard Hester
lhester2003 3 years ago