Nice. I would recommend adding a main cut off and a bypass even though the softener has it already. The by bypass would allow you to work on the softener and softener bypass valve without interrupting the supply to the house. Wife may get made if you work on it an have complications and need more parts but the store is closed. Just remember $20 in copper will keep everyone happy because if your wife isn't happy no one else is happy ;)
The drain is wrong, With it having the discharge from the softener put into the drain with out a physical air separation . You risk the chance if the sewer backs up and you get sewage in your water system. Not only can you contaminate your house but you can contaminate the entire city. Which will be a huge law suit.
Very good step by step instructions. I am very handy @ home but had no idea how one of these went together. Simple. Water in, water water out, With a discharge or waste pipe when the unit rinses itself out. If U sweat the threaded adapters on to short legnths of copper, U can use teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads. No heat near the valve this way. Thanks
also if you have a carbon unit with a softner and they are both on demand fleck valves .. you have to set the time on one valve 2 hours behind the other one because they both need full pressure to backwash and ya don't want them going off at the same time. usually a carbon unit is a timed unit so it goes off at 12 instead of 2 AM both set at correct time of day
also when puttin in a softner you want to use iron out salt and stay away from pellets ... they are man made and put next to heat it will bridge in yer brine tank . softners like to attract iron and not release it so use either iron out,, rescare (liquid) or iron out powder. putting in an inline pre filter can also take some of the blunt especially on wells
the one thing you want to do is to bypass your outside spigotts ... the piston is a wear and tear item and with a fleck valve or any other valve .. over time the piston wears causing it to stick in regeneration and if it does and yer on a well you can burn out the pump. make sure the time is always set to the proper time of day because a 5600 backwashes at 2 :00 am. if you draw water to water a garden or grass while the time is off and it is regenerating . it could kill yer grass
Is that the main supply into your property? I wondered if you was softening your drinking water by mistake. Is your drinking water on a separate system?
Nice install. I like the 'gator bite' as an option to connect the bypass valve. I normally sweat a small length of tube onto the male fitting before screwing it into the bypass thereby avoiding the heat into the valve assm...
The valve at the rear of your unit is in the bypass position and the softener is not on.
The drain tube is simply stuffed into a pvc drain and there is no danger of it siphoning sewage if that were to happen.
I thought GatorBites (or SharkBites if bought from Home Depot) were a violation of code when installed with potable water. I think they contain something in them that "may cause cancer''. Then again, it seems like pretty much everything causes cancer these days lol I still think it looks great and was a great idea. If anyone knows if this is not violating code, please let me know because I would like to use these fittings too.
they sell pre-made airgaps for this type of installation, but they are much more costly than what i just described. i hope what i described made sense, lol... --- but if you check with local plumbing code in your area you'll see Air gaps are mandatory and any good inspector ( when you sell the house ) will catch it. it may seem silly to do all this but it is for your own safety. if the right conditions exsist (eg, stopped up drain. etc.) you could literally be injecting your pipes w/sewer
everything looks good but you must install an "air gap" on the drain line. this prevents backflow from your sewer to your potable water system. in your installation you will require a 2" air gap between your drain tube and your house drain. cheapest way to achieve this is by getting a 2" p-trap and installing a 2" piece of pipe (with reducing fittings to attach your hose) above the trap, then on the 2" pipe cutting out large holes in the side of the pipe will give you the air gap.
Thanks for posting this video. We are trying to install an Ecowater Ecopak system but are really confused by all the tubing. Too bad you didn't show/explain where the tubes go and why... if you get a chance that would be great. THANKS!
Nice video!
I did this 2-3 years ago, but it's interesting to see someone else do things too :-)
integrex35 1 week ago
Cool Vid, I am in the planning stages of upgrading my water softerner as well. This shed some light on moving forward. Thanks again. : )
redfeettube 1 week ago
Nice. I would recommend adding a main cut off and a bypass even though the softener has it already. The by bypass would allow you to work on the softener and softener bypass valve without interrupting the supply to the house. Wife may get made if you work on it an have complications and need more parts but the store is closed. Just remember $20 in copper will keep everyone happy because if your wife isn't happy no one else is happy ;)
mcarbaugh 2 months ago
@mcarbaugh grow a pair and put her in her place..
2hatelibs1 2 months ago
The drain is wrong, With it having the discharge from the softener put into the drain with out a physical air separation . You risk the chance if the sewer backs up and you get sewage in your water system. Not only can you contaminate your house but you can contaminate the entire city. Which will be a huge law suit.
DeathToid 3 months ago
Thanks for the video. This is great
khalilm99 4 months ago
it is sooooo complicated
1011aleksandra 8 months ago
Very good step by step instructions. I am very handy @ home but had no idea how one of these went together. Simple. Water in, water water out, With a discharge or waste pipe when the unit rinses itself out. If U sweat the threaded adapters on to short legnths of copper, U can use teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads. No heat near the valve this way. Thanks
Themman221 8 months ago
Thanks for taking the time. It really helped me.
1bnewu 8 months ago
TIL: I will be hiring a professional to install my water softener :O|
michaeijd 9 months ago
Well done my friend. It's always nice to diy and have the job come out right. Good video. Thanks for sharing.
maxvegas7 11 months ago
Thank you for your time I saved hundreds. Bless you
mkstirn1224 11 months ago
Where's the bypass and the shut off valves?
GreatSoundingGuy 11 months ago
If the softner drain drains into the houses sewer system u must have an air gap to prevent cross contamination
MsCountryboy6 1 year ago
Comment removed
jonstupey 1 year ago
What softening system did you use; and what were your results?
blkcola 1 year ago
Thank you sooo much... I a going to install softer and was looking for helpful video like this online.
mssca 1 year ago
You really should have an approved air gap on that drain line.
jeffpicks 1 year ago
that not up to texas plumbing code
northwest290 1 year ago
was the clear hose some type of drainage system?
mucho333 1 year ago
also if you have a carbon unit with a softner and they are both on demand fleck valves .. you have to set the time on one valve 2 hours behind the other one because they both need full pressure to backwash and ya don't want them going off at the same time. usually a carbon unit is a timed unit so it goes off at 12 instead of 2 AM both set at correct time of day
tayopic 1 year ago
also when puttin in a softner you want to use iron out salt and stay away from pellets ... they are man made and put next to heat it will bridge in yer brine tank . softners like to attract iron and not release it so use either iron out,, rescare (liquid) or iron out powder. putting in an inline pre filter can also take some of the blunt especially on wells
tayopic 1 year ago
the one thing you want to do is to bypass your outside spigotts ... the piston is a wear and tear item and with a fleck valve or any other valve .. over time the piston wears causing it to stick in regeneration and if it does and yer on a well you can burn out the pump. make sure the time is always set to the proper time of day because a 5600 backwashes at 2 :00 am. if you draw water to water a garden or grass while the time is off and it is regenerating . it could kill yer grass
tayopic 1 year ago
Thank you sooooooo much for your great video!!
cejay3911 1 year ago 2
I don't got a "U" shape. just pipes going into the water heater.
Romanflight 1 year ago
Looks straight forward, great video.
BrownLabs 1 year ago
This was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Waday2005 1 year ago
Is that the main supply into your property? I wondered if you was softening your drinking water by mistake. Is your drinking water on a separate system?
DavidLMay 1 year ago
Just wondering how much everything cost including the softener tank?
tkgardner2323 1 year ago
Nice install. I like the 'gator bite' as an option to connect the bypass valve. I normally sweat a small length of tube onto the male fitting before screwing it into the bypass thereby avoiding the heat into the valve assm...
The valve at the rear of your unit is in the bypass position and the softener is not on.
The drain tube is simply stuffed into a pvc drain and there is no danger of it siphoning sewage if that were to happen.
Nice install! the metered valve is a good choice.
aerospot 2 years ago
I thought GatorBites (or SharkBites if bought from Home Depot) were a violation of code when installed with potable water. I think they contain something in them that "may cause cancer''. Then again, it seems like pretty much everything causes cancer these days lol I still think it looks great and was a great idea. If anyone knows if this is not violating code, please let me know because I would like to use these fittings too.
terrorizingtheturbin 1 year ago
pt.2*
they sell pre-made airgaps for this type of installation, but they are much more costly than what i just described. i hope what i described made sense, lol... --- but if you check with local plumbing code in your area you'll see Air gaps are mandatory and any good inspector ( when you sell the house ) will catch it. it may seem silly to do all this but it is for your own safety. if the right conditions exsist (eg, stopped up drain. etc.) you could literally be injecting your pipes w/sewer
slpknt10l03 2 years ago
everything looks good but you must install an "air gap" on the drain line. this prevents backflow from your sewer to your potable water system. in your installation you will require a 2" air gap between your drain tube and your house drain. cheapest way to achieve this is by getting a 2" p-trap and installing a 2" piece of pipe (with reducing fittings to attach your hose) above the trap, then on the 2" pipe cutting out large holes in the side of the pipe will give you the air gap.
slpknt10l03 2 years ago
the drain line looks like shit but nice work with the copper!! lol.
vpino1 2 years ago
Thanks for posting this video. We are trying to install an Ecowater Ecopak system but are really confused by all the tubing. Too bad you didn't show/explain where the tubes go and why... if you get a chance that would be great. THANKS!
skywatcher707 2 years ago