If I am filling in a mortar joint of hole that is larger than an inch I pack the joints using a tuck pointer when I am simply pointing in the 3/4 inch deep joints that I have ground out I feel that the concave jointer works just fine to pack and seal the mortar. I have never heard the term slicker used by a mason in the Michigan I think it is used is more often used in Europe. Thanks for your input would love to hear more from ya
Fair enough, i may just be old school i guess, the mason who taught me hates grout bags for. It's interesting to here that in michigan you don't use the term slicker i'm from PA and always thought thats what everyone calls em. but you'll here them called tuck pointers too. I agree with you on the concave jointer i think it's the best why to tool a joint, If you not worried about matching with exsising joints
Looks good bro... Very informational video... Plan on doing the same exact job on the base of my parents chimney this weekend and this video was exactly what I was looking for... I have watched it a couple times and all the feature of the chimney before seem to be the same... Deteriorated brick & loose joints... Great job... Im inspired!
them bags aint gonna be able to fill every joint, 'weather' finish is best for you're region, dont need to use a brush, use a dry clean sponge when pointing hardens, sponge also takes off all the mortar stains from face of brick.
As a person who has worked for numerous brick restoration specialists, I'd give you a 4 out of 10, WD.
I have used a hammer drill chisel like this before and cracked joints like a stair step away from the repair area. Once a brick has a crack in the mortar joints does it need to be removed or can the mortar be cut back and just tuck pointed? Or do the bricks need to come out? Seems like the more I remove the more cracks that develop
twenty year old chimney should not have a high lime mortar content. Your chimney should be bricked with type N mortar possibly type S you if it is a small repair you can pick up ready mix mortar from any local hardware
Nice video and repointing work! I have a general question. I have a 20 y/o chimney that needs repointing. Should I be looking at having Portland cement of lime mortar being used?
Yes adding color is not difficult there a a variety of manufacturers and types, powder mixes are fine if you plan on using a mixer to mix your mortar, if you plan on using a wheelbarrow and a hoe or shovel thean i would recomend using a liquid color. you can pick up color at most home improvment stores, mix the color into your water before you add it to the mortar if you are mixing by hand that way your color is uniform
If you are a mason then you know that by far the hardest thing any mason, architect or engineer does on masonry is matching color. Don't recommend to people to try to get their color to match.
Honestly the easiest and best thing to do is burn the joints a few days after with acid. Matching the texture looks much better than a botched (and they always are) job at trying to match mortar color.
Late night tired text, didn't realize that you were the person who posted the video (great work btw). Regardless my comment still stands, you even noted in your video how hard it is to match mortar color.
@Markallenmaupin When i repair bricksteps or chimneys on old homes i usually buy a box of buff colored die . I only mix in about 1/2 of it to a bag of pre mixed type s .That keeps the gray color from showing up so much. If you noticed a lot of old mortar has almost a sand color to it. I hate to see that gray color jetting out next to the old mortar. It makes it so obvious that it has been repointed. I ususlly talk the homeowner into repointing the whole project it makes 4 a better job.
you really oughta not use a grout bag, motar is compressive and should be packed and brought up in thin layers with a slicker
thilomasonry 3 weeks ago
If I am filling in a mortar joint of hole that is larger than an inch I pack the joints using a tuck pointer when I am simply pointing in the 3/4 inch deep joints that I have ground out I feel that the concave jointer works just fine to pack and seal the mortar. I have never heard the term slicker used by a mason in the Michigan I think it is used is more often used in Europe. Thanks for your input would love to hear more from ya
Markallenmaupin 3 weeks ago
Fair enough, i may just be old school i guess, the mason who taught me hates grout bags for. It's interesting to here that in michigan you don't use the term slicker i'm from PA and always thought thats what everyone calls em. but you'll here them called tuck pointers too. I agree with you on the concave jointer i think it's the best why to tool a joint, If you not worried about matching with exsising joints
thilomasonry 3 weeks ago
Thanks
Markallenmaupin 1 month ago
You are one BAD motherfucker. You rocked the shit out of that chimney.
bonaytothebonay 2 months ago
Looks good bro... Very informational video... Plan on doing the same exact job on the base of my parents chimney this weekend and this video was exactly what I was looking for... I have watched it a couple times and all the feature of the chimney before seem to be the same... Deteriorated brick & loose joints... Great job... Im inspired!
dcogent1 2 months ago
them bags aint gonna be able to fill every joint, 'weather' finish is best for you're region, dont need to use a brush, use a dry clean sponge when pointing hardens, sponge also takes off all the mortar stains from face of brick.
As a person who has worked for numerous brick restoration specialists, I'd give you a 4 out of 10, WD.
magnusalexa 2 months ago
I have used a hammer drill chisel like this before and cracked joints like a stair step away from the repair area. Once a brick has a crack in the mortar joints does it need to be removed or can the mortar be cut back and just tuck pointed? Or do the bricks need to come out? Seems like the more I remove the more cracks that develop
mjzraz 3 months ago
Followed your video clips to re-point my chimney. So far so good. thx.
zhenhaoma 3 months ago
Please - use a respirator when you grind cement or mortar!
TruegrassBoy 5 months ago
@TruegrassBoy I agree Not using a respirator when you grind can lead to silocosis or lung problems
Markallenmaupin 3 weeks ago
twenty year old chimney should not have a high lime mortar content. Your chimney should be bricked with type N mortar possibly type S you if it is a small repair you can pick up ready mix mortar from any local hardware
Markallenmaupin 6 months ago
Nice video and repointing work! I have a general question. I have a 20 y/o chimney that needs repointing. Should I be looking at having Portland cement of lime mortar being used?
quyken64 6 months ago
@quyken64 Type N Mortar
Markallenmaupin 3 weeks ago
Mixing color into the mortar really is very easy. The hard part is getting it to match the existing mortar after it is dried.
DallasBrickRepair 6 months ago
Do you recommend using any kind of bonding agent?
pljcbsn3306 6 months ago
nice work
junglejoe2x 7 months ago
GREAT JOB GUYS,,,,,,,,,,,
WARRENTRAGER 7 months ago
Yes adding color is not difficult there a a variety of manufacturers and types, powder mixes are fine if you plan on using a mixer to mix your mortar, if you plan on using a wheelbarrow and a hoe or shovel thean i would recomend using a liquid color. you can pick up color at most home improvment stores, mix the color into your water before you add it to the mortar if you are mixing by hand that way your color is uniform
Markallenmaupin 1 year ago
@Markallenmaupin
If you are a mason then you know that by far the hardest thing any mason, architect or engineer does on masonry is matching color. Don't recommend to people to try to get their color to match.
Honestly the easiest and best thing to do is burn the joints a few days after with acid. Matching the texture looks much better than a botched (and they always are) job at trying to match mortar color.
EuphoricDan 7 months ago
@Markallenmaupin
Late night tired text, didn't realize that you were the person who posted the video (great work btw). Regardless my comment still stands, you even noted in your video how hard it is to match mortar color.
EuphoricDan 7 months ago
@Markallenmaupin When i repair bricksteps or chimneys on old homes i usually buy a box of buff colored die . I only mix in about 1/2 of it to a bag of pre mixed type s .That keeps the gray color from showing up so much. If you noticed a lot of old mortar has almost a sand color to it. I hate to see that gray color jetting out next to the old mortar. It makes it so obvious that it has been repointed. I ususlly talk the homeowner into repointing the whole project it makes 4 a better job.
spiegelsteven 3 months ago
CAN I ADD A COLOR TO MY TUCK POINTING?
HELLTOWNLION59TH 1 year ago
Nice Job. Gave me some good Idea on how to approach my own project. Jeff (Tasmania)
LateNightOwlMe 1 year ago