I was thinking about buying a Suzuki V-Strom 650,or a V-Strom1000, But there tall bikes, Would it be ok to let the forks slide up some to lower the front, and lower the back the same amounts. Or will this mess things up. There maybe other bikes I would try as well, That's if it works .Thank's for your help, yl
@ylism You can lower the front up to 10mm but have to watch the clearance between tire and head/radiator. You can lower the back by softening spring preload to increase sag numbers. You could also swap out the fork and shock springs for ofter units or lastly purchase some Soupy's adjustable lowering links.
@SportbikeWrench Thank's allot ! 10mm lower on the front is better the none, Yes there would be some loss of clearance. I would rather use a link to lower the back, That way the pre load can be adjusted to where it needs be. If they didn't have a 19" front tire, It might be easier swap, Maybe a lower tire ratio. What forks would you suggest over the stock ? What ever I do, It must be safe. Thank's again, yl
HELP PLEASE! ive just bought second hand forks for my 1988 fz 600 as originals were blowing seals within a week and were bouncy and sink badly when the front brake was pulled i got the other pair and seals are fine no pitting where seals run there straight and the same length but id say there just as "bouncy" im unsure what to do could an oil change solve this? There supposed to use 10w but i assume the oil thats in them will be about 20yo and i was going to put fresh 20w in them can you please
@suzigixxer1000 start with 20w to the same volume as the manual calls for, then try 30w if you still experience he bouncing. If 30w doesn't cur it I would look at the installed preload on the fork springs - there may be too much.
HELP PLEASE! ive just bought second hand forks for my 1988 fz 600 as originals were blowing seals within a week and were bouncy and sink badly when the front brake was pulled i got the other pair and seals are fine no pitting where seals run there straight and the same length but id say there just as "bouncy" im unsure what to do could an oil change solve this? There supposed to use 10w but i assume the oil thats in them will be about 20yo and i was going to put fresh 20w in them can you please
@suzigixxer1000 a couple of things to watch out for. Yes 20w will work if you use Maxima or Motul and set the oil height at 130mm (we have a download to help you with that). The second part is checking installed preload. - If they are the stock springs you can add 10mm of washers that are correctly sized (use the stock washer for sizing) to increase the installed preload and help with spring collapse and brake dive.
Thank you Sir for the quick reply. I weigh about 80 kilos ( I'm an Australian so go the Metric system ) that's about 175lbs and I am about 6.1 ft. The weight on my wrists is a bit much on longer rides probably need to strengthen my core more. But I will try the mod process you suggested then go from there. Thanks again for all the work on your videos and forum reply's, always appreciated Mr Moss.
Dave love your DvD's and youtube video series. I was wondering about the Triumph 675 Daytona front fork mods you have done in the past. Do I raise the front of the bike by dropping the fork tubes down through the triple trees until the top of the fork tubes are even with the top of the top triple tree to give me better weight distribution under heavy braking and slow down the steering geometry as I have heard you should do or should i justt send the forks away for a re spring. Its a 2009 model
@geneome Thanks for the kind words! It depends on your weight whether you respring or not. If you go with heavier springs you must go with heavier oil eg: Lucas 10w fork oil which is closer to a 12 weight to stock fork oil height.
Yes set the forks flush and try that and then set them at the joint of the cap and tube and try that for turn in and initial brake dive.
Dave, great video as always! When doing the front forks how important is is to get the deposits from the bottom? I just replaced the fluid and noticed lots of it, didn't get it all out. One other thing, when putting the fork cap back on, how important is the number of turns till the cap is locked down. As I installed the caps the number of turns I could get out of one cap was different than the other. I ended up taking the cap back off and setting them both the same number of turns. And Is ther
@greenpup1 once almost all the oil is out, let the forks drain overnight to get the sludge out. Make sure the cap is set for the right number of clicks/turns and then put the cap on. It will bottom out and then bring the jam nut up to it. Snug the jam nut, back off the rebound screw and then tighten the jam nut to the cap.
@motoseteo you should empty both chambers. The inner chamber doesn't hold a lot of oil, but it makes sense to get as much old oil out as possible. Draining them for a while will help get all the deposits out of the bottom of the fork, but you would need to do that overnight.
finally a fork service video!...... is it ok to just leave the old oil in the 2nd chamber?... at least i think the forks on the newer gsxrs are twin chambers ....
I was thinking about buying a Suzuki V-Strom 650,or a V-Strom1000, But there tall bikes, Would it be ok to let the forks slide up some to lower the front, and lower the back the same amounts. Or will this mess things up. There maybe other bikes I would try as well, That's if it works .Thank's for your help, yl
ylism 2 months ago
@ylism You can lower the front up to 10mm but have to watch the clearance between tire and head/radiator. You can lower the back by softening spring preload to increase sag numbers. You could also swap out the fork and shock springs for ofter units or lastly purchase some Soupy's adjustable lowering links.
Dave Moss
Host
SportbikeWrench 1 month ago
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ylism 1 month ago
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ylism 1 month ago
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@SportbikeWrench Thank's allot ! 10mm lower on the front is better the none, Yes there would be some loss of clearance. I would rather use a link to lower the back, That way the pre load can be adjusted to where it needs be. If they didn't have a 19" front tire, It might be easier swap, Maybe a lower tire ratio. What forks would you suggest over the stock ? What ever I do, It must be safe. Thank's again, yl
ylism 1 month ago
HELP PLEASE! ive just bought second hand forks for my 1988 fz 600 as originals were blowing seals within a week and were bouncy and sink badly when the front brake was pulled i got the other pair and seals are fine no pitting where seals run there straight and the same length but id say there just as "bouncy" im unsure what to do could an oil change solve this? There supposed to use 10w but i assume the oil thats in them will be about 20yo and i was going to put fresh 20w in them can you please
suzigixxer1000 8 months ago
@suzigixxer1000 start with 20w to the same volume as the manual calls for, then try 30w if you still experience he bouncing. If 30w doesn't cur it I would look at the installed preload on the fork springs - there may be too much.
Dave Moss
Host
SportbikeWrench 8 months ago
HELP PLEASE! ive just bought second hand forks for my 1988 fz 600 as originals were blowing seals within a week and were bouncy and sink badly when the front brake was pulled i got the other pair and seals are fine no pitting where seals run there straight and the same length but id say there just as "bouncy" im unsure what to do could an oil change solve this? There supposed to use 10w but i assume the oil thats in them will be about 20yo and i was going to put fresh 20w in them can you please
suzigixxer1000 8 months ago
@suzigixxer1000 a couple of things to watch out for. Yes 20w will work if you use Maxima or Motul and set the oil height at 130mm (we have a download to help you with that). The second part is checking installed preload. - If they are the stock springs you can add 10mm of washers that are correctly sized (use the stock washer for sizing) to increase the installed preload and help with spring collapse and brake dive.
Dave Moss
Host
SportbikeWrench 8 months ago
Thank you Sir for the quick reply. I weigh about 80 kilos ( I'm an Australian so go the Metric system ) that's about 175lbs and I am about 6.1 ft. The weight on my wrists is a bit much on longer rides probably need to strengthen my core more. But I will try the mod process you suggested then go from there. Thanks again for all the work on your videos and forum reply's, always appreciated Mr Moss.
geneome 11 months ago
Dave love your DvD's and youtube video series. I was wondering about the Triumph 675 Daytona front fork mods you have done in the past. Do I raise the front of the bike by dropping the fork tubes down through the triple trees until the top of the fork tubes are even with the top of the top triple tree to give me better weight distribution under heavy braking and slow down the steering geometry as I have heard you should do or should i justt send the forks away for a re spring. Its a 2009 model
geneome 11 months ago
@geneome Thanks for the kind words! It depends on your weight whether you respring or not. If you go with heavier springs you must go with heavier oil eg: Lucas 10w fork oil which is closer to a 12 weight to stock fork oil height.
Yes set the forks flush and try that and then set them at the joint of the cap and tube and try that for turn in and initial brake dive.
SportbikeWrench 11 months ago
where is the full video ????????????
nursica 1 year ago
@nursica it is on the OTT home page under e-downloads!
Dave Moss
Host
SportbikeWrench 11 months ago
Dave, thanks for the help, its exactly what in need to know! You the man!!!!
greenpup1 1 year ago
Dave, great video as always! When doing the front forks how important is is to get the deposits from the bottom? I just replaced the fluid and noticed lots of it, didn't get it all out. One other thing, when putting the fork cap back on, how important is the number of turns till the cap is locked down. As I installed the caps the number of turns I could get out of one cap was different than the other. I ended up taking the cap back off and setting them both the same number of turns. And Is ther
greenpup1 1 year ago
@greenpup1 once almost all the oil is out, let the forks drain overnight to get the sludge out. Make sure the cap is set for the right number of clicks/turns and then put the cap on. It will bottom out and then bring the jam nut up to it. Snug the jam nut, back off the rebound screw and then tighten the jam nut to the cap.
Dave Moss
Host
SportbikeWrench 1 year ago
i like the fan and light work. dave the supermodel.
mstingray 1 year ago
awesome! can't wait Dave!
bboynicku 1 year ago
finally im so happy there's a video coming soon,
tks you
flipmode00 1 year ago
Can't wait for the full version!
yam6dan 1 year ago
When is the complete video going to be released?
motoseteo 1 year ago
@motoseteo you should empty both chambers. The inner chamber doesn't hold a lot of oil, but it makes sense to get as much old oil out as possible. Draining them for a while will help get all the deposits out of the bottom of the fork, but you would need to do that overnight.
Dave Moss
Host
SportbikeWrench 1 year ago
finally a fork service video!...... is it ok to just leave the old oil in the 2nd chamber?... at least i think the forks on the newer gsxrs are twin chambers ....
great video!
TreeK7 1 year ago