Added: 1 year ago
From: kcbasementfinishing
Views: 66,861
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  • Great upload and advice. I would also suggest the corner clips for drywall to allow for movement. Most DA contractors do not understand the concept of putting a non load bearing wall below a load bearing floor system. As far as a "squeak" issue,, won't happen on basement furring walls unless you have foundation issues and you do not leave the plate gaps on interior basement walls without using one of many expansion compensation products.

  • !/8 is more than enough!! And if your custumer keeps on bitching, than he's an idiot! It's not the concrete that swells' It's the wood that expands

  • You should never leave a gap, it looks ugly and takes away the structural ability of the wall. You should also have a treated bottom plate with sill gasket between wood and concrete, this is building code( no wood touching concrete without proper moisture barrier. This also leads to squeaky floors.

  • This is wrong, what a squeeky nightmare that floor is going to be! If you think it is the code, you are wrong. Are those nails rated for having 3/4 open? If it were code they woud require some metal fasteners designed to move up and down but not side to side. Nails? Really? SQUEEEEK! Please take the video down and stop spreading your ignorance, sad that the homeowner caught you being stupid! LOL Do they leave 3/4 in the drywall? LOL Idiot! You build so that the floor doesnt swell, not for swell.

  • Dude if your conrete swells 3/4 of an inch you have a lot more problems to deal with trust me.

  • man get a life i don't think what you saying? i'm contractor and  contractor knowsss you need contractor.... lol

  • Excellent advice. Thanks for the heads up. 

  • Thanks for the tip. I have one question though. Does leaving a space cause the floor to squeak above? Especially with the newer style floor joists that flex a bit more.

  • If any of you guys actually knew what you were talking about you would not be searching how to video's.

    This wall is framed on 16" O.C. However, there is an access panel that was installed in this wall in order to keep access to the water main shut off. This access panel required a larger opening.

    So glad I could be helpful to such appreciative and humble audience.

  • @kcbasementfinishing wow ok lets start by saying, These are interior walls in a basement which means they are framed on the floor and not the footing. The footing supports all the load, these walls are non loadbearing. to allow for movement they are framed short. if they were framed tight and your floor heaved and your footing stayed the floor would have pressure under it and possibly lift off the foundation in some cases. people should research more before bashing everyone!

  • The homeowner should be more concerned if you used a tape when you laid out the stud placements. I'm not a framer, but when I built my garage and camp, mine were 16" on center, every one, but just some.

    I'm going to look in to the gap though, because I'm just about to finish my basement.

  • As a framer . An engineer will call this a Deflection Gap . which is required when using floor trusses or TJI's . so as not to impose uneven stresses on the joist , The Fire block ?? . I don't see a dropped ceiling so it is alright .. and a solitary fire block atop the wall within the joist bay needed to chamber for 1000 sq ft .. the rest is accompliished through the drywall

  • maaannn, i feel sorry for your clients... are you even licensed? builders should have to have one to build. Oh well well, you will create more work for the real carpenters out there... damn..

  • Are those studs are 16" centred away from eachother? I don't think so.

  • I still dont understand how this wall is being supported without nailing to the joists. Also if the floor is lifting would it not lift at the rim joist as well thus causing the whole floor to go up anyways. I'm sorry but I live in Canada where we have the worst kind of heaving and I have never heard of this practice. And I'm a framer!!

  • with that type of gap you are creating a space for air to pass through freely , thus creating a fire hazard . this should never be done . If a fire starts you have no draft stop to slow it's progress . Do not frame like this . take this video down asap it is giving people wrong information .

  • Comment removed

  • how do you secure the wall to the floor joists?

  • @HomeEnergyNow

    Leaving this type of gap is not only a good idea, it is required by our local building code.

  • @kcbasementfinishing Than your city just decided to make that one up on their own, or you are wrong. You would have to be a framing rookie moron to think its a good idea. Squeeks are all I see, some of the worst const. I have ever seen was in KC.

  • Put the rubber in the gap is my ideas. how do you think?

  • So how do you nail the top plate to the joists if it's shorter by 3/4"?

  • My last comment should have read 1 to 1 1\2 apart. You still have to fasten your upper plates no matter how its dont to the cieling of course and your lower plates to the floor. One thing should be stated though and that is that the 3 plate floating system should be used at the stairwell.  This allows for drywall from the upper floor to be spanned over your upper and lower floor joint. This will b the first place that you see taping cracks with any movement. adjustable teleposts r also good.

  • Hes right.Basement frost walls dont support your home so dont need to be tight.. Keep in mind that if u do this u should install suspended cielings. most people do in a basement. If you r drywalling the cieling then use 3 plates with your upper tight to the cieling. space the lower two plates 1 top 1 1\2 apart fasten them with 6" common spikes. This allows the wall to ride up and down on the common spike. proper drain tile and sump pit are a must to prevent added floor movement.

  • Interesting. I'm looking to finish my basement and have never framed an interior (did my own 8x12 shed on a concrete pad, but that's it) and I too thought the frame should make contact with the ceiling joists. With this approach, do you still anchor the top of the frame to the ceiling?

    Thanks.

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