I'm a builder by trade, so I was interested to see him drill through the strip and ribbing them slide a nail in and hammer it into nothing - what is he doing there? Is he flatting the nail on the inside on the back of his tomahawk?
@PhillHeslop Exactly ... like a riveter's bucking bar or a shoemaker's last ... to make the point of the tack curl around and cinch flat into the wood.
@yenamarre100 Canoe bones = ribs? 8 ribs are bent to fit the centre station, then 4 to fit each station down the length of the form. Each station is slightly smaller than the one before it, gradually tapering to the bow and stern. 4 ribs are placed between the station they were formed on and the one next to it, then 4 of the next size in the next interval, and so on from midships to the bow/stern. At the very end I use half-ribs because the bending is too acute. 64 ribs total for a 16-ft canoe.
@JustWonderingHowToDo I don't know about soaking the wood in 'nearly boiling water'. I know that I soak the cedar strips in room temperature water for about 4 days, and then I steam them for about 45 minutes ... and then, you've got about 1 minute to clamp the wood in place. Hope this helps.
Not so fast ... I built my form using Canoecraft, not some expensive online design kit . I chose the Prospector ... P. 43 ... I've got pencil scribblings all over that page where I changed things; but, as best I can remember, I drew the stations pretty much as you see described in the 'Pipedreams to Paper' chapter ... transferred them to 3/4" plywood, then cut them with a handheld jigsaw. I wish now I'd been taking video of that process to show you ... but, alas, no!
ok, i just dont know where to get my measurements for the station molds...after lookin around online, it seems people buy prints then use those to trace out the molds onto wood...thank you for answering back though. good luck with any future builds!
Ive been reading canoecraft, and very interested...in chap 4 its got different styles of canoes to choose from and on the left side of pages are the tables for measurements...i dont understand when it says (ex. 0-10-4+) in know its in ft-inch-eighths, but, do you use those measurements for the station molds or what? the book isnt clear on that. any help would be much appreciated!
Maybe I have a different edition of Canoecraft. I can't even find anything like (ex. 0-10-4+). I can't remember (it's been so long) ever paying any attention to anything like that when plotting the shapes of each station. If they're allowances for error in cutting, you might find (as I did) that cutting the stations is anything but precise. My canoe planks aren't pinned to the station molds anyway. The fit of canoe on mold is not tight. The final canoe is only my approximation of the Prospector.
its a great way to build A CANOE. l HAVE A CANOE AND L HAVE A LOT OF FUN WITH IT. dO YOU KNOW HOW TO BUILD A RAFT BECAUSE L HAVE A LITTLE BROBLEMS WITH MYINE. AND L HAVE WATER COMING ON THE TOP OF IT AND L THINK ITS NOT REALLY GOOD AND ME AND MY FRIENDS WHEN WE RIDING IOT WE HAVE A SMALL PROBLEMS WITH IT PLEASE WRITE A REPONSE.
Hi - where do you buy your cedar? Do you mill it yourself or buy a kit? What part of Canada do you live in (reference for cedar suppliers). Appreciate the help - canoe is beautiful!!!
By 'sheer' do you mean the height of the bow or stern above the waterline compared to the height midway between? The size and shape of these pieces is a matter of trial and error. Some planks begin as bottom planking and bend gradually over the natural curve of the canoe to the bow/stern. In between are 'cheater' pieces, often previously discarded scraps. I just eyeball them first, then trim with a hand-knife till they fill the gaps ... held in place with tacks and glue. No secret formula!
It's a little more "show" than "tell" ... sorry, I'm a bit shy. Even though it's my 4th one, I'm still refining the process ... some things are still experimental and I'm not sure whether or not they'll work out. So I try to keep my mouth shut!
Hi from Gran Canaria in Atlantic Ocean. Interesting technique. I start building my next soon, using cedar strip and glass. I guess yours with braces does not use fiberglass. Will look very traditional. Where did you get plans please? I like the DIY steamer! Very practical.
I, too, finish them off with a fibreglas exterior (see 'Canoe No. 3' on YouTube) ... tried one with canvas (too much bother with the faring and the filling) ... fibreglas is so much simpler all around ... I keep the rib strips for the traditional interior and added strength (I'm still a white water fan!). The idea for the form came from a book called 'Canoecraft' by Ted Moores, published by Camden House, 1983 ... beyond that the techniques are my own.
Nice to see how this works without a canoe mold. Looking forward to part 2. Is it harder doing it this way then with a jig? I have been toying with the idea of building a canoe and videos like your may just make it happen here in Northern California.
This is my fourth one ... I estimate 60-75 hours per canoe ... but, it being a hobby and me being retired, I spread it out over the long Canadian winter ... probably won't finish this one until March or April.
Five-sixteenths of an inch (about 0.8 cm)
webcap 1 month ago
How thick are the cedar strips?
monroeshton 1 month ago
God bless youtube.... just what I needed to learn...
joojoo1234 1 month ago
I'm a builder by trade, so I was interested to see him drill through the strip and ribbing them slide a nail in and hammer it into nothing - what is he doing there? Is he flatting the nail on the inside on the back of his tomahawk?
PhillHeslop 6 months ago
@PhillHeslop Exactly ... like a riveter's bucking bar or a shoemaker's last ... to make the point of the tack curl around and cinch flat into the wood.
webcap 6 months ago
@PhillHeslop It's called clinker built. Look up Rushton from the late 1800's.
heavyfarandfast 1 month ago
@yenamarre100 Canoe bones = ribs? 8 ribs are bent to fit the centre station, then 4 to fit each station down the length of the form. Each station is slightly smaller than the one before it, gradually tapering to the bow and stern. 4 ribs are placed between the station they were formed on and the one next to it, then 4 of the next size in the next interval, and so on from midships to the bow/stern. At the very end I use half-ribs because the bending is too acute. 64 ribs total for a 16-ft canoe.
webcap 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
fuck you and your canoe!
RichardBurrberry 10 months ago
what a beautiful canoe
RichardBurrberry 10 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
cordial saludo.favor de informarme sobre los planos de un kayak para 2 ppoder grande para pesca. rioaventura3000@gmail.com mil gracias
rioaventura2010 1 year ago
yes man.you know this job.. you are the best. and i will wait youre next part.thanks
lalelibahcem 1 year ago
Do you need to steam the wood or would it be enough to soak them in nearly boiling water?
JustWonderingHowToDo 1 year ago
@JustWonderingHowToDo I don't know about soaking the wood in 'nearly boiling water'. I know that I soak the cedar strips in room temperature water for about 4 days, and then I steam them for about 45 minutes ... and then, you've got about 1 minute to clamp the wood in place. Hope this helps.
webcap 1 year ago
Not so fast ... I built my form using Canoecraft, not some expensive online design kit . I chose the Prospector ... P. 43 ... I've got pencil scribblings all over that page where I changed things; but, as best I can remember, I drew the stations pretty much as you see described in the 'Pipedreams to Paper' chapter ... transferred them to 3/4" plywood, then cut them with a handheld jigsaw. I wish now I'd been taking video of that process to show you ... but, alas, no!
webcap 2 years ago
ok, i just dont know where to get my measurements for the station molds...after lookin around online, it seems people buy prints then use those to trace out the molds onto wood...thank you for answering back though. good luck with any future builds!
dmesz311 2 years ago
Ive been reading canoecraft, and very interested...in chap 4 its got different styles of canoes to choose from and on the left side of pages are the tables for measurements...i dont understand when it says (ex. 0-10-4+) in know its in ft-inch-eighths, but, do you use those measurements for the station molds or what? the book isnt clear on that. any help would be much appreciated!
dmesz311 2 years ago
Maybe I have a different edition of Canoecraft. I can't even find anything like (ex. 0-10-4+). I can't remember (it's been so long) ever paying any attention to anything like that when plotting the shapes of each station. If they're allowances for error in cutting, you might find (as I did) that cutting the stations is anything but precise. My canoe planks aren't pinned to the station molds anyway. The fit of canoe on mold is not tight. The final canoe is only my approximation of the Prospector.
webcap 2 years ago
great work
dumb7890 2 years ago
Very good video and step by step however a vocal commentary of what you are doing and why would be nice great canoe by the way
laffyduffy 3 years ago
its a great way to build A CANOE. l HAVE A CANOE AND L HAVE A LOT OF FUN WITH IT. dO YOU KNOW HOW TO BUILD A RAFT BECAUSE L HAVE A LITTLE BROBLEMS WITH MYINE. AND L HAVE WATER COMING ON THE TOP OF IT AND L THINK ITS NOT REALLY GOOD AND ME AND MY FRIENDS WHEN WE RIDING IOT WE HAVE A SMALL PROBLEMS WITH IT PLEASE WRITE A REPONSE.
mxapwa 3 years ago
Hi - where do you buy your cedar? Do you mill it yourself or buy a kit? What part of Canada do you live in (reference for cedar suppliers). Appreciate the help - canoe is beautiful!!!
mikenor20002 3 years ago
I just sent you an email. Great work by the way. I am curious how you figure out the sheer strips and how you arrive at their sizes?
PittsburghMan 4 years ago
By 'sheer' do you mean the height of the bow or stern above the waterline compared to the height midway between? The size and shape of these pieces is a matter of trial and error. Some planks begin as bottom planking and bend gradually over the natural curve of the canoe to the bow/stern. In between are 'cheater' pieces, often previously discarded scraps. I just eyeball them first, then trim with a hand-knife till they fill the gaps ... held in place with tacks and glue. No secret formula!
webcap 4 years ago
Hi great video even better canoe fantastic job, I would love it if you could talk us through the process,
bogsdolics 4 years ago
It's a little more "show" than "tell" ... sorry, I'm a bit shy. Even though it's my 4th one, I'm still refining the process ... some things are still experimental and I'm not sure whether or not they'll work out. So I try to keep my mouth shut!
webcap 4 years ago
Hi from Gran Canaria in Atlantic Ocean. Interesting technique. I start building my next soon, using cedar strip and glass. I guess yours with braces does not use fiberglass. Will look very traditional. Where did you get plans please? I like the DIY steamer! Very practical.
tonysamson 5 years ago
I, too, finish them off with a fibreglas exterior (see 'Canoe No. 3' on YouTube) ... tried one with canvas (too much bother with the faring and the filling) ... fibreglas is so much simpler all around ... I keep the rib strips for the traditional interior and added strength (I'm still a white water fan!). The idea for the form came from a book called 'Canoecraft' by Ted Moores, published by Camden House, 1983 ... beyond that the techniques are my own.
webcap 5 years ago
Nice to see how this works without a canoe mold. Looking forward to part 2. Is it harder doing it this way then with a jig? I have been toying with the idea of building a canoe and videos like your may just make it happen here in Northern California.
flyby2900 5 years ago
No, there's no mold ... but, there is an open form to maintain shape ... it's the only way I've ever done it ... don't know if it's easier or harder.
webcap 5 years ago
what kind of skill does it take to do somthing like this?
MasterShake54 5 years ago
Except for selecting good pieces of wood to work with (ash, cedar) nothing more than what tou see
webcap 5 years ago
how long does it take to build one of these
MasterShake54 5 years ago
This is my fourth one ... I estimate 60-75 hours per canoe ... but, it being a hobby and me being retired, I spread it out over the long Canadian winter ... probably won't finish this one until March or April.
webcap 5 years ago