Action Direct (9a) Dai Koyamada

[oktoberfritz1234]

there is no incorrect way to climb a route or bouldering problem. whatever works for you is the correct way....

[driftchamberLucifer]

9a is that 34 on the ewbank can any one help

[DJRedsocks]

@driftchamberLucifer

Go for german wikipedia and type in: "Schwierigkeitsskala (Klettern)"

...sorry yt does not allow links

[xXBlu3roseXx]

for those who think tht its average or nt deserving of 9a. It is hard becos the amount of finger strength u need to put off the mono and 2 finger moves.

[gripperpete]

AMAZING!



[theultimateshoe]

Aparantly Dai was there when Rich Simpson was trying it. I wonder if he could clear up all that controversy!!!

[dangerouswater]

"Nice..." I would have jumped down head first from happiness...he limited himself to " Nice..." XD

[akashy180687]

I can do better ... average skill ...

[assadicted]

I would have pull the slack at 2:55 !

[anamorph]

der hat da aber ganz schön seilzug beim ersten schnapper...

nanana gilt das so überhaupt?

Falls das der Versuch war bei dem er die Route geklettert ist, gilt es nicht.

Check out the rope after the dyno! It's simply not valid like this!!!

[badsn]

@anamorph

zuerst dachte ich du wärst ein Spinner der dem Japaner den Erfolg nicht gönnt bis ich deinen anderen Kommentar gelesen habe und gemerkt habe was du meinst. Der Zug am Gurt bei 1:02 geht wirklich nicht!

[MrDhulet]

I love how at the top of the route he is so emotional. You can see through his body language that he is experiencing something words cannot describe. It is that feeling I can relate to. That feeling is why I climb!

[gredinCZ]

it's cool, when you are about 50kg with your own bed

nice climbing and screaming too

[ch9zn]

ooks like a warm up route to me :O

[jonsowonti]

jan hojer did it 2010!

[fresh4ever2000]

coooooool video... i've seen the route at Waldkopf, really impressive! :)

- Sandra

[waltscher83]

 echt abgefahren

[liveisfiction]

he chills like climbing a 7a :D

[Hasuris]

A pure epic route.

Who knows how many good routes have been destroyed over the years just because some douchebags couldn't climb them and decided to chip some extra holds?

Wolfgang basically invented new ways to train for this (campusboard/fingerboard) back in the day!

[josefomanu]

amazing...

[sydneydoc]

I do like his smoothness. Such a different style to Ondra.

[sx5r]

@sydneydoc well yeah, but dont forget that Ondra did it after 15 attempts. Give hin another 15 and his style will be smoother too ^^

[amebaofSeptember]

Dai!

What the fuckin' are you made from?

Or have hands of rubber sucker?

You're real boulderer!

[RedTipsProductions]

well done

[DawidDiduch]

yeah

[dumptzzz]

2:32 : "wer schreit denn da so?" :D

[bxrockstar]

NICE RUN OUT MAD BALLS

[HawtGlass]

samurai smooth

[campusmang]

we say action direct is 5.14d here in america

[campusmang]

9a is in the middle, basically 5.14d/15a

[putamierda1983]

coño... igual que Hero Nakamura.. YATAAA

[thorblai]

What is that in the American scale?

[Wuedschuetz]

5.15a

[MonsterMan1]

9a is actually 5.14d in the American scale NOT 5.15a.

[campusmang]

its not 5.14d either

[gerardo231]

lol you hear all the camaras when he does the dyno

[bufosinhron]

Yata hahaha

[Lorenz028]

such a beauty this piece of rock is..

[Roflwahflez]

Ahmgawdlkjsldkfjaslkdf that scream at the end made me turn my volume down. Or screams rather.

[Bussska]

You're right. I couldn't stand and listen to it...

[HosteDenis]

I was afraid someone might think I was looking at porn.

[fabptitpom]

@HosteDenis

Lol... that's exactly what I thought.

[mvtje]

Damm :|

Respect !!

[perricida]

Really intense...

[yokamotoh]

mad respect! what a great climber!

[parpareshte]

huge respect man!

[EinbeinigerLee]

beautiful work

[boxsterwelby]

incredible. Some people think asians are weak......that's bull! Everyone has something to offer the sport of climbing.  Strong send and I appreciate the yelling and the bowing at the end.

[BerndS]

this is more like "action indirecte", he goes far to the right after the first bolt... I think Güllich went straight over the bolts in his ascent.

[yoninchen]

the other climbers did it this way also,

Iker Pou (2000)

Dave Graham (2001)

Christian Bindhammer (2003)

Richard Simpson (13/10/2005)

Dai Koyamada (15/10/2005)

Markus Bock (22/10/2005)

Kilian Fischhuber (26/09/2006)

Adam Ondra (19/05/2008)

So...

[sKoti15]

@yoninchen I would disagree, check out Rich Simpson ascent on v imeo he does it with a completely different sequence(reportedly similar to Gullich's).

[poorboychevelle]

@yoninchen Actually, Rich Simpson did the mono dyno jumping off his right hand and catching the pocket with his left. Which made him more "squared up" for that first move out right, as opposed to the big crossing move.

[666pauldianno]

@yoninchen

Adam Pustelnik( 10.11.2010)

[rivoleez]

you don't have a clue, do you?

[ochoymedio78]

Only Rich Simpson did it the way Wolfgang did.... And the clipping in Wolfgang years was even more difficult than in Rich's...

[utahphunk]

Why was clipping harder back then? I'm curious.

[anamorph]

@BerndS You know what the other climbers did differently? They did not have their swing stopped by the rope after doing the dyno! I am sure this is not the actual ascent of Dai Koyamada because this would clearly be invalid. Please compare the swings on the other ascents. I am by no means doubting the ascent of Dai. I am just saying it's unfortunate that there is no video of an immaculate ascent of his.

[luridi]

@BerndS Did Komayada steal your girlfriend? Just check Iker's Pou video. He did Action Directe in the same way. Did you ever see the route from the bottom? I guess no.

[aldemarseille]

c'est grand trés grand se qu'il fait

il repousse ses limites à l'extrème

bravo

AL

[kimboII]

Plenty of chalk on the holds... funny!

:)

Good job...

[Hungryboyfromhungary]

how do u make a 9a look easy? that first move was ridicolous and did i see correctly that it was a 1 finger hold???? duuuuuuude....

[elvis237]

Wolfgang Gullich = WAY ahead of his time.

[TatankaIXc]

title-> Action DIRECTE, tags also;)

[Rigbyband]

Nice!!

[hekokra]

der hat da aber ganz schön seilzug beim ersten schnapper...

nanana gilt das so überhaupt?

[NuitSanWoggaWogga]

whaaat. hangs by a two finger hold at 1:12?

some crazy ass shit right there.

[ermarado]

jajaajajaja.........at 1:36 he hangs from one!!!!!

[HawtGlass]

holy shit. i can feel my tendons breaking right now.

[exphx]

Ich find ja den Kommentar bei 2:33 gut: "Wer schreit denn hier so?

[boxsterwelby]

great climb, and I love the japanese attitude about sports. They are so calm, but so emotioinal at the same time.

[ObserveIt]

awsome

[niceporch]

tick mark dab.

[campusmang]

tmd is right!!!!!!!!1111

[blaketake]

yattah!!

[ourobsession]

Still a milestone route - just 9(!) repeats in 17 years since the FA!!!! First ascent in 1991 by Wolfgang Güllich/ GER (RIP), a man with a one-of-a-kind attitude. I feel blessed to got th know him - we miss you Wolfgang :-/

1995 Alexander Adler, GER

2000 Iker Pou, ESP

2001 Dave Graham, USA

2003 Christian Bindhammer, GER

2005 Richard Simpson, GB

2005 Dai Koyamada, Japan

2005 Markus Bock, GER

2006 Kilian Fischhuber, AUT

2008 Adam Ondra, TCH

[spittlbahl]

still a classic, and it looks so easy when he is climbing it...

[StefanoPelinga]

one day...

one day...

[juergenstein]

Die Wand ist ja völlig vernagelt. Grausam

[Peitschenhiebe]

Was bist Du denn für einer?

[juergenstein]

Meinst du, die Haken wachsen natürlicherweise im Fels?

[Peitschenhiebe]

Geh das Ding free solo und beschwer Dich dann über die Haken. Blödkopf.

[juergenstein]

Bau doch gleich eine Seilbahn

[juergenstein]

Oder nimm Dynamit. Wer sagt denn, dass man irgendetwas in eine Wand schlagen muss? Dann klettert man eben nicht

[Peitschenhiebe]

Keine Ahnung aber das Maul aufreißen.

So was wie Du gehört ... siehe mein Nickname!

[Cavefan0815]

Einfach genial die Leistung!!!!

[Quetzalquoitl]

one word: Inspiring.

[bfareddawn]

congratulations, well done !

[Mlk2r]

Check out that awesome 2nd gen foot moves straight off the slab, halfway through the dyno.

That is one very happy man.

[vsvvssvs]

omg he would have follen abou 20 meters at least

[campusmang]

a lot less than 20 meters

[ninodj1974]

bravo

[petepiaire]

they donit even show close up of these mono finger holds .

[DevilChao5]

impressive. verrrry impressive

[Mastroberna]

the best route!!!