I'm a bit late watching this, but in case you need it, I've got schematics for a lot of Samsung IP boards (IP = Inverter/Power).
They should have either an IP-xxxxxx number somewhere near the main pinout table, or have a Samsung-typical "BN44" number on a serial number sticker somewhere.
Examples of BN44 numbers would be BN44-00199A or BN44-00264C and so on. If it's on the serial number sticker, it will be as one string, i.e. BN440199A. just look for something that starts with BN44 or BN4400
i am not that good with fine electronics i figured is was something to do with the inverter but just wanted to get your opinion on it plus dad may have broke the lcd when he moved the parts to it with out telling me and losing the dam screws if it don't work out in the end it will go back in the dumpster it came out of
What wold make a lcd come on for 30 40 seconds then shut off but the sound stays on then i shut it off then back on then 30 or 40 you get the point any help wold be appreciated
@MrCinimod93 sounds like the backlight inverter is failing, monitor its voltages as it cycles on and off, you will probably find the power for the backlight cuts out while control stays on
@MrCinimod93 failing backlight, or bad capacitors. Good place to get help with either of those problems (or diagnosing the problem in general) would be the badcaps . net forums.
If you decide to post there, just don't use off-site image hosting. A lot of the older folks there dislike that and tend to ignore the thread, which doesn't really help fixing the thing ;)
they are called TCP (Tape Carrier Package), or TAB (Tape Automated Bonding), also CoG (Chip on Glass) and CoF (Chip on Film). Believe it or not there are companies that specialize in fixing LCDs by replacing those
@007bondjb I.m not a HVAC tech but I use a lot of that sort of equipment in my hobby shop.
I do make a lot of money cleaning up/repairing window AC units and selling them tho. same with on-site coil & filter cleaning, since most ppl around here never clean them.
I was going to say at 5:30 I see those all the time in those sets, computer power supplies and I believe they are line interference filters. They were iron ferrite core chokes when I went to pick some up.
those film ribbons with the semiconductors are the crystal driver ICs. those take the pixel clock, data bits, etc... and converts them to the individual levels that each pixel needs in the panel.
Those long rectangular chips on the ribbon cables that go to the LCD are the display drivers/buffers. Each chip can address a section of the LCD in the X or Y axis.
They have shift registers/RAM in them that are loaded by a data bus from the main driver IC. Once all the data is loaded, they wait for the command to drive the LCD. Each produces the proper duty cycle and timing of RGB pixels in their control field and keep it static. Then they are loaded with new data and cycle repeats.
Those inductors at 5:30 are common mode chokes. They remove any common mode type of noise on the AC line. More specifically, they prevent noise from the TV switch power supply from getting out into the AC grid. But if you have any sensitive electronics such as preamp or such that is picking up noise on the AC line from a motor or other, those will come in handy. Put them in the AC line to a guitar amp if AC line noise is causing a problem etc....
Those inductors with 2 windings connected to active and neutral are common mode filters. They primarily stop noise from the switch-mode supply getting into the mains. There can also be another large inductor which isn't always wound on a toroid, which is part of the power factor correction regulator.
So they are RF chokes blocking hash from the switch mode supply. God I hate switch mode supplies, O.K when designed properly but many are cheaply designed Chinese POS that wreak havoc with the AM radio bands as well as causing power line spikes that can destroy things.
and yes, you can fix BGA by reflow. most ppl fail because they just thermal stress them to make temporary contact. but with proper heating (focused incandescent lamp?) you can get a half good reflow (:
My goodness...That's quite a large fluorescent light fitting you have there. :-D
Would be interesting to see that powered up with no light-reducing diffusion on it. :-D
I wonder how bright it'd be, & also, now that you have removed the LCD layer, how would you adjust the brightness? Would it turn on at full brightness, or on it's dimmest setting, or somewhere in the middle?
Most LCDs have various light 'ambience' settings. I wonder what this was set to before you popped it?
@BoomBoxDeluxe The brightness on those is varied by the mainboard. the little (usually 5pin) connector Ed mentioned has the pin for adjusting the brightness (he actually mentions it.. "DIM").
Backlight intensity is varied through a voltage to a special pin, usually in the range of 0 to 5V DC.
Another pin turns the inverter on and off completely, in those Samsung LCD TVs it's usually 0V off, 3.3V on.
Most of the time the values are silkscreened on the solder side of the board
That's really interesting, I have an Acer 17 inch computer monitor that's about 9 years old and I just assumed there were CFL's on all 4 sides, top, bottom, left and right side, but it's possible that there are rows of them as is the case here. What was actually wrong with this TV set when it came in? I hope you can do something constructive with the CFL light assembly. Do LED based TV sets have a large array of LED's behind the LCD panel, or are the LED's just around the 4 edges?
@Aussie50 I've shot a pic for a forum post once, showing off the LED backlight assemblies from two cracked LED backlit LCD panels, one from a netbook (10.1") and a regular laptop one (15.6") in comparison to a standard TO-220 package IC.
The upper one with the wider LED spacing is from the netbook, the lower one from the laptop.
They're basically used the same way as CCFLs (LED strip at the top or bottom)
@Lachlant1984 I've opened many LCD's that size (17") and almost all of them (that use CFL) just have two tubes on top and bottom edges. No way will a 17" have a tube layout like this TV. You can still take the LCD out and be left with the entire back light assembly. I recommend leaving ALL the plastic sheets in so the light doesn't spread and it will appear much brighter. Most LED displays will be edge lighting, only really expensive adaptive back light LCDs will have an LED matrix.
@johnofe I've seen quite a few sub-20" (mostly 17" and 19") LCD monitors with backlight assemblies like this, instead of the cheaper and more comon edge-lit ones.
AU Optronics made quite a few of them, and they're pretty common in industrial/high-brightness stuff.
I wonder if you'd be able to power the inverter for the CFL's, without the proper PSU, LED TV's are much better, just lots of tiny Surface mount components to worry about, if something fails
6:13 I love it when the pinouts on PCBs are marked, makes modding a lot easier. That how I found the audio out for a boombox I modded. How many volts does the inverter for the CCFL lamps run on?
@coondogtheman1234 the inverter part of the PSU is probably 24V DC, trick would be to find where the input is, sever it from the rest of the PSU and just run the unit off a 24V power brick, instead of messing with the soft on/off controls
That's the way to go, direct hookup. I have a CCFL light from a flatbed scanner and the inverter on that is 12 volts and I run it off a car jumpstarter. it has a car lighter plug on it and it works great. Made an emergency light out of it. I'd love to see the filming light project in a future vid.
Hi ed just wondering if u know a good adapter that runs audio out of the optical audio out to a head phone jack to run my new speakers i got for xmas. cant seem to find any around. cheers
I remember once removing the backlight but not the panel on an old monitor so that the screen could be seen through whilst it was working... It wasn't practical but at the time I thought it looked "Futuristic" - I never found LCD practical anyway though, the response times were too low with LCD which is why I am still using CRT.
The coil devices on the primary input to the power supply function as HF chokes. Yes basic inductors but magnetically linked to each other to remove common mode noise.
I can't comment on the virtues of an LCD monitor or televison using LEDs or flouro tubes but I suspect that the main reasons why the LEDs haven't been as common must have been the cost and the wavelengths of light that they put out. I don't know if they work any better but the power consumption would be lower then the flouro tubes. The technology of LEDs has been moving ahead quite a bit, up until a few years ago red, green, and yellow were the only colours but not anymore.
Should get a few lumens of those. I'm looking at my CCFL Samsung Series 8 and it's quite amazing that the can get all that gear into it as its just about as thin as a modern LED tv. Great video!
@Kurtreidable yeh I was going to make the comment that LCD and LED TV's have a much smaller bezel and overall weight compared to the older ones. the new Samsung Smart TV's look awesome!
@Aussie50 You guys are great, you show me stuff I only wonder about. Plus, that brick and that washing machine made me laugh harder than I have in a long time. Great stuff.
@Aussie50 lol that is where I found this channel as well random shit on youtube ended up at photoinductions page and then here !! By the way any idea of power consumption on that cfl array I have a dead samsung 40 up the back that I might dissect.
you gotta keep an eye on it so you dont start a fire but ive had some success with using a hairdryer to reflow
sethat8e 1 month ago
i think i might have had one of those tv's (same model) with some issue but i got rid of it
sethat8e 1 month ago
Very interesting stuff.
EastAngliaUK 1 month ago
I'm a bit late watching this, but in case you need it, I've got schematics for a lot of Samsung IP boards (IP = Inverter/Power).
They should have either an IP-xxxxxx number somewhere near the main pinout table, or have a Samsung-typical "BN44" number on a serial number sticker somewhere.
Examples of BN44 numbers would be BN44-00199A or BN44-00264C and so on. If it's on the serial number sticker, it will be as one string, i.e. BN440199A. just look for something that starts with BN44 or BN4400
Knaeckebrotsaege 2 months ago
i am not that good with fine electronics i figured is was something to do with the inverter but just wanted to get your opinion on it plus dad may have broke the lcd when he moved the parts to it with out telling me and losing the dam screws if it don't work out in the end it will go back in the dumpster it came out of
MrCinimod93 2 months ago
What wold make a lcd come on for 30 40 seconds then shut off but the sound stays on then i shut it off then back on then 30 or 40 you get the point any help wold be appreciated
MrCinimod93 2 months ago
@MrCinimod93 sounds like the backlight inverter is failing, monitor its voltages as it cycles on and off, you will probably find the power for the backlight cuts out while control stays on
Aussie50 2 months ago
@MrCinimod93 failing backlight, or bad capacitors. Good place to get help with either of those problems (or diagnosing the problem in general) would be the badcaps . net forums.
If you decide to post there, just don't use off-site image hosting. A lot of the older folks there dislike that and tend to ignore the thread, which doesn't really help fixing the thing ;)
Knaeckebrotsaege 2 months ago
they are called TCP (Tape Carrier Package), or TAB (Tape Automated Bonding), also CoG (Chip on Glass) and CoF (Chip on Film). Believe it or not there are companies that specialize in fixing LCDs by replacing those
rasz 2 months ago
Cool video. I'm in the HVAC business. I saw some semi hermetic compressors in your shop. You must be a AC technician too?
007bondjb 2 months ago
@007bondjb I.m not a HVAC tech but I use a lot of that sort of equipment in my hobby shop.
I do make a lot of money cleaning up/repairing window AC units and selling them tho. same with on-site coil & filter cleaning, since most ppl around here never clean them.
Aussie50 2 months ago
" Hurry up and die already, your distracting me " :D lol
More350Power 2 months ago 6
I was going to say at 5:30 I see those all the time in those sets, computer power supplies and I believe they are line interference filters. They were iron ferrite core chokes when I went to pick some up.
More350Power 2 months ago
those film ribbons with the semiconductors are the crystal driver ICs. those take the pixel clock, data bits, etc... and converts them to the individual levels that each pixel needs in the panel.
THEtechknight 2 months ago
Certain TVs use an error return signal, if it picks up one tube not firing, it shuts down.
THEtechknight 2 months ago
Those long rectangular chips on the ribbon cables that go to the LCD are the display drivers/buffers. Each chip can address a section of the LCD in the X or Y axis.
They have shift registers/RAM in them that are loaded by a data bus from the main driver IC. Once all the data is loaded, they wait for the command to drive the LCD. Each produces the proper duty cycle and timing of RGB pixels in their control field and keep it static. Then they are loaded with new data and cycle repeats.
gavincurtis 2 months ago
Hey Ed,
Those inductors at 5:30 are common mode chokes. They remove any common mode type of noise on the AC line. More specifically, they prevent noise from the TV switch power supply from getting out into the AC grid. But if you have any sensitive electronics such as preamp or such that is picking up noise on the AC line from a motor or other, those will come in handy. Put them in the AC line to a guitar amp if AC line noise is causing a problem etc....
gavincurtis 2 months ago
Really enjoy this channel.
Learn somthing new everytime I watch one of your videos.
Thank-you : )
MK2ryana89 2 months ago
I found Jimmy Hoffa's body when I removed the diffusers.
ArcadeGames 2 months ago
Those inductors with 2 windings connected to active and neutral are common mode filters. They primarily stop noise from the switch-mode supply getting into the mains. There can also be another large inductor which isn't always wound on a toroid, which is part of the power factor correction regulator.
EEguy85 2 months ago
So they are RF chokes blocking hash from the switch mode supply. God I hate switch mode supplies, O.K when designed properly but many are cheaply designed Chinese POS that wreak havoc with the AM radio bands as well as causing power line spikes that can destroy things.
OlegKostoglatov 2 months ago
and yes, you can fix BGA by reflow. most ppl fail because they just thermal stress them to make temporary contact. but with proper heating (focused incandescent lamp?) you can get a half good reflow (:
knglaser 2 months ago
take off the polarizer and make a set of glasses with it. then take the polarizer off a computer monitor. porn monitor lol
shinyfuzzy 2 months ago
That backlight was very interesting!! I too thought they were at the edges!
tribalmasters 2 months ago
My goodness...That's quite a large fluorescent light fitting you have there. :-D
Would be interesting to see that powered up with no light-reducing diffusion on it. :-D
I wonder how bright it'd be, & also, now that you have removed the LCD layer, how would you adjust the brightness? Would it turn on at full brightness, or on it's dimmest setting, or somewhere in the middle?
Most LCDs have various light 'ambience' settings. I wonder what this was set to before you popped it?
-BoomBoxDeluxe.
BoomBoxDeluxe 2 months ago
@BoomBoxDeluxe The brightness on those is varied by the mainboard. the little (usually 5pin) connector Ed mentioned has the pin for adjusting the brightness (he actually mentions it.. "DIM").
Backlight intensity is varied through a voltage to a special pin, usually in the range of 0 to 5V DC.
Another pin turns the inverter on and off completely, in those Samsung LCD TVs it's usually 0V off, 3.3V on.
Most of the time the values are silkscreened on the solder side of the board
Knaeckebrotsaege 2 months ago
That's really interesting, I have an Acer 17 inch computer monitor that's about 9 years old and I just assumed there were CFL's on all 4 sides, top, bottom, left and right side, but it's possible that there are rows of them as is the case here. What was actually wrong with this TV set when it came in? I hope you can do something constructive with the CFL light assembly. Do LED based TV sets have a large array of LED's behind the LCD panel, or are the LED's just around the 4 edges?
Lachlant1984 2 months ago
@Lachlant1984 I've never seen inside LED panels at all, but older PC monitors usually have 2 CFL's, 1 top and 1 bottom.
however some do run loads of tubes like this one. they are typically thicker than the top/bottom lamp ones
Aussie50 2 months ago
@Aussie50 I've shot a pic for a forum post once, showing off the LED backlight assemblies from two cracked LED backlit LCD panels, one from a netbook (10.1") and a regular laptop one (15.6") in comparison to a standard TO-220 package IC.
The upper one with the wider LED spacing is from the netbook, the lower one from the laptop.
They're basically used the same way as CCFLs (LED strip at the top or bottom)
oh yeah..and they're insanely bright :O
bambooz.pytalhost . net/badcaps/led-backlight.jpg
Knaeckebrotsaege 2 months ago
@Lachlant1984 I've opened many LCD's that size (17") and almost all of them (that use CFL) just have two tubes on top and bottom edges. No way will a 17" have a tube layout like this TV. You can still take the LCD out and be left with the entire back light assembly. I recommend leaving ALL the plastic sheets in so the light doesn't spread and it will appear much brighter. Most LED displays will be edge lighting, only really expensive adaptive back light LCDs will have an LED matrix.
johnofe 2 months ago
@johnofe I've seen quite a few sub-20" (mostly 17" and 19") LCD monitors with backlight assemblies like this, instead of the cheaper and more comon edge-lit ones.
AU Optronics made quite a few of them, and they're pretty common in industrial/high-brightness stuff.
Knaeckebrotsaege 2 months ago
I wonder if you'd be able to power the inverter for the CFL's, without the proper PSU, LED TV's are much better, just lots of tiny Surface mount components to worry about, if something fails
HDXFH 2 months ago
6:13 I love it when the pinouts on PCBs are marked, makes modding a lot easier. That how I found the audio out for a boombox I modded. How many volts does the inverter for the CCFL lamps run on?
coondogtheman1234 2 months ago
@coondogtheman1234 the inverter part of the PSU is probably 24V DC, trick would be to find where the input is, sever it from the rest of the PSU and just run the unit off a 24V power brick, instead of messing with the soft on/off controls
Aussie50 2 months ago
@Aussie50
That's the way to go, direct hookup. I have a CCFL light from a flatbed scanner and the inverter on that is 12 volts and I run it off a car jumpstarter. it has a car lighter plug on it and it works great. Made an emergency light out of it. I'd love to see the filming light project in a future vid.
coondogtheman1234 2 months ago
Like that one, very interesting
redneckbryon 2 months ago
You should take a neon transformer to that panel.
rocketman221projects 2 months ago
Hi ed just wondering if u know a good adapter that runs audio out of the optical audio out to a head phone jack to run my new speakers i got for xmas. cant seem to find any around. cheers
Tim
astro1218 2 months ago
i think those little silicone chips on the ribbons are some sort of multiplexer
MrTurboturbine 2 months ago
I remember once removing the backlight but not the panel on an old monitor so that the screen could be seen through whilst it was working... It wasn't practical but at the time I thought it looked "Futuristic" - I never found LCD practical anyway though, the response times were too low with LCD which is why I am still using CRT.
HighTreason610 2 months ago
I'd leave most if not all the diffusers out. Seems like they do block quite a bit of light.
amfan12 2 months ago
УЕБАК ЕБАЛЬНИК ЛУТШЕ СВОЙ РОЗБЕЙ БЛЯТЬ
Pikachu0062 2 months ago
thats going to make a nice shoplamp :P
daewooparts 2 months ago
The coil devices on the primary input to the power supply function as HF chokes. Yes basic inductors but magnetically linked to each other to remove common mode noise.
colt4547 2 months ago
Thanks Ed, i havnt looked inside the large lcd tellys, good disection.
What a shame that all that work went into the lcd and most of the time the dam electronic junk goes wrong and it ends up at the tip.
Led lighting seems to be coming more common, have you had a mess with one of those, and if you have are they any better than the tube backlighting?
zx8401ztv 2 months ago
I can't comment on the virtues of an LCD monitor or televison using LEDs or flouro tubes but I suspect that the main reasons why the LEDs haven't been as common must have been the cost and the wavelengths of light that they put out. I don't know if they work any better but the power consumption would be lower then the flouro tubes. The technology of LEDs has been moving ahead quite a bit, up until a few years ago red, green, and yellow were the only colours but not anymore.
OlegKostoglatov 2 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
"comment removed by SOPA"
AnasheedCast 2 months ago
that will make for a good light.
V8Jagnut 2 months ago
Just back before New Years Day, I bought a replacement for my Insignia 42".
It is > UN46D6000SFXZA $ 899.99
So Interesting your doing the autopsy on a 46" Samsung with CFL.
One I got was Last years model with LED edge lit display.(would have loved local dimming, but too pricey)
Geoffr524 2 months ago
5:37
Holy shit that fucker got zapped BIG TIME.
xhighalert 2 months ago
My rear projection 50" LCD has a big blue star in the center. It is a Sony KDF 50e50a10
coffeefish 2 months ago
Should get a few lumens of those. I'm looking at my CCFL Samsung Series 8 and it's quite amazing that the can get all that gear into it as its just about as thin as a modern LED tv. Great video!
FrontSideBus 2 months ago
do cfl's put out any
heat
harlstr 2 months ago
@harlstr kinda they do get toasty
1638490 2 months ago
amazing how tubes did not break, u smashed it lol
danorambo 2 months ago
I think the two innermost layers are light polarizers.
PhattyMo 2 months ago
Good video, Now we have led tvs there a lot thinner.
Kurtreidable 2 months ago
@Kurtreidable yeh I was going to make the comment that LCD and LED TV's have a much smaller bezel and overall weight compared to the older ones. the new Samsung Smart TV's look awesome!
Aussie50 2 months ago
is that chonda virtical or horizontal shaft?
BriggsMower 2 months ago
@BriggsMower horizontal.
Aussie50 2 months ago
@Aussie50 damm i was hoping it was vertical lol i could have used that.
BriggsMower 2 months ago
And to think.... if Photoinduction hadn't thrown that brick into a washing machine, I would never have found your outstanding channel.
MrVicist 2 months ago 14
@MrVicist lol yeh we share common interests :D, havn't seen anything from him in my inbox lately, must go see whats up
Aussie50 2 months ago
@Aussie50 You guys are great, you show me stuff I only wonder about. Plus, that brick and that washing machine made me laugh harder than I have in a long time. Great stuff.
MrVicist 2 months ago
@Aussie50 lol that is where I found this channel as well random shit on youtube ended up at photoinductions page and then here !! By the way any idea of power consumption on that cfl array I have a dead samsung 40 up the back that I might dissect.
fuckme24one 2 months ago
@fuckme24one The light will be more than the double of a fully white screen due to the polarizers.
erlendse 2 months ago
@MrVicist naughty....
astro1218 2 months ago