Weathering olive drab - part 1: simple wash

[19Fubar71]

Great video mate please keep them coming they are so helpful to a newb like me. Where is best to buy your paints/oils/pigments online as i dont have a single model shop anymore in my local area. :-(

Also what is this 'future' you keep mentioning? I'm guessing its a type of varnish maybe!

Anyway again many thx for the awesome videos.

[SwissCheese707]

Thanks! This is the exact type of video I was looking for! what washes would you reccomend to a beginner who has none, or has never used any. I'm probably going to get MIG, and from there Neutral wash. Should I get anything else? Also, would you reccomend I get filters as well?

[ScaleModelMedic]

@SwissCheese707 The only premixed washes I use are the vallejo acrylic ones. When it comes to weathering washes, like dirt and rain streaks, I use diluted oil paints. The reason for this is quite simple - when you buy a premixed wash it can only ever be as strong as it comes out of the bottle, or weaker. With oil paint you can use it with only a bit of thinner and it would be a strong wash, or you could use a lot of thinner and it is weak. It doesn't take long to get used to mixing you own!

[ceconk123]

Remove this stupid music on your other videos pls.

[ScaleModelMedic]

@ceconk123 nope, bye.



[110samec]

What inaccuracies does the dragon kit have? I have got an M21 mortar motor carriage and want to get accurate.

[ScaleModelMedic]

@110samec where do you start ?! though it's a lovely kit, there are many missing things and things you want to change. The best thing to do would be to go over to missing lynx forum and search out halftrack posts. Look for the ones by Ken, he is a guru on haltracks and I think he posted a list.

It can be turned into a really, really sweet kit with some basic changes though dude, it's mainly stuff like missing bolts, wrong shaped gear stick, a few bits here and there...

[AcesRecords]

Cool. Best Regards.

[h4rdkorrl4rm4]

what is this model?

[foofydoo]

Thanks for the videos and tips, they are brilliant, really adding realism to my aircraft. Is there any chance you could do one on hot parts like exhausts and jet pipes

[iamthefatstig]

Just what I have been looking for! Could I just water down an acrylic to make a wash?

thanks.

[ScaleModelMedic]

@iamthefatstig

yeah of course, no problem. See my videos on 40k weathering pt2 i think - I use an acrylic wash in that video.

the acrylic would work even over an acrylic gloss, but once it's dry it's permanent so make sure you clean up any over-wash very quickly and neatly as you'll only get one shot!

using oils means you can go tidy it up in your own time but if you have none or just don't want to use them there is absolutely no reason why you CAN'T use acrylic, I just tend not to.

[iamthefatstig]

@ScaleModelMedic Thanks for that..looks like I'm off to blow a fortune down the hobby shop! Will keep you posted how I get on.

[night6sceptre101]

really nice tutorial! thanks!

[lorbin1]

what color green did u use

[shiftercontrol]

Thanks for the help. Great job.

[FRTothus]

Sorry, two questions... what is it you dip the q-tip into to tidy up, and what sealer did you mention; I can't pick it out even in review. Thanks

[ScaleModelMedic]

@FRTothus

Sorry mate that'll be my accent stopping you hearing what I use. The sealant is called Future, or "Klear", by Johnsons. It is a cleaning product from the supermarket but can be used as an acrylic gloss coat. Any gloss coat would also work really. The q-tip was dipped in white spirit which is the dilutant for the oil wash.  This is mineral spirits based.

[shiftercontrol]

@ScaleModelMedic Did you dilute the future any? or just spray it right from the bottle? Thanks

[ScaleModelMedic]

@shiftercontrol

I don't normally dilute it, it goes straight from the bottle into the airbrush and it sprays really well without diluting. There is nothing wrong with diluting at all, but you'll need more coats to get a good finish.

[EVERYTHINGWW2]

when you said transfers applied and fujer(i guess that is what u said).what is the purpose.

[grimmo74]

SMM, love your work! it's great modellers like you are showing their techniques here! it's definately going to help me! i have a few WW2 vehicles i am going to redo now.

[ScaleModelMedic]

The model is 1/35th Scale

[ModelbuildingTANKS]

Are you positive? It looks like it's 1/48.

[ScaleModelMedic]

It's dragon's kit 6329

100% definitely 1:35

I don't build 1:48 and it would be smaller if it was in that scale.

[ModelbuildingTANKS]

Hm. must just look smaller. My hands are really small, so, yours just probably make the model look smaller considering they're normal sized. :)

[ScaleModelMedic]

@ModelbuildingTANKS

I have very big hands for someone with such a delicate hobby... somehow I work with the tiny model parts using big fingers.

little hands are an advantage in this field!

[ModelbuildingTANKS]

@ScaleModelMedic

Eh.... Not for playing the guitar though! But, yes they do come in handy! :)

[hardcoremedic]

the fingerprints, been there, future wasn't hard enough, sweaty fingers, and too much pressure, didn't see it untill almost done, used the "tarp at the right place" trick :)

[ScaleModelMedic]

ah, soft future... that would have smudged whether you handled bare or with gloves so it wasn't really your fault.

[hardcoremedic]

as we do we learn hé :)

cheers

[batai37]

Why are you handling the model with your bare hands? You're running the risk of transferring fingerprints to the surface which, unless you carefully wipe it down first, could become a permanent addition to the finished surface after applying your final overcoat.

[ScaleModelMedic]

@batai37

If you're careful and handle a model by it's edges there is no problem. I always leave some areas of a model un-weathered until the last step so I can handle it by those points. When you do come to weather those areas, adding oil washes would dissolve any fingerprints.

There is a risk of getting prints once you've applied pigments, but that's the last step in the process.

And also - a final overcoat is something I never use. It kills any interesting finishes and makes it all flat

[hardcoremedic]

did you never have that after applying a wash on future, it get's all flat and has a white dust like coat, or a white flat in the corners?

I had it on some models,mostly the OD one's T34 and Sherman's

[ScaleModelMedic]

@hardcoremedic

sounds like it's either reacting badly or there is something mixed in with it that it doesn't like.

When you clean your airbrush are you running some water through just to get rid of any residual traces of chemicals ?

It's a longshot but it might make a difference. Failing that, if you're still having trouble ask an airplane modeller - they use a lot of future. I think AdrianNtart below is an aircraft guy looking at his channel, he might be able to help.

[AdrianNtart]

Do you find it a bit tough to spray Klear? cos i do!.. when ever i spray it, i get droplets. almost like im sprying water

[ScaleModelMedic]

I don't normally have a problem even when spraying it totally neat with no thinner. I have changed the way I paint now so I don't need the klear coat, but I still have it ready to use if I need it.

[AdrianNtart]

what PSI are you spraying it at?

Do you spray it on lightly or heavily?

[batai37]

Try mixing a drop of ordinary dishwashing soap to the future and mix well...this breaks up the surface tension of the Future and will lessen pooling and drips. Also, try dropping the PSI of your airbrush to 15-18.

[AdrianNtart]

I spray it at 10 or 11 or 12. If higher the pressure will immediately crease the layer of spray. Not to get droplets i have to spray heavily, close and slowly.

I will try out your suggestion. thanks.

[hardcoremedic]

good tip, already use it to break the watertension when I use acrylics, didn't think of using it with future.

[CplCoyote]

One other question is I've replayed it countless times and still can't catch what is being said around 00:28 seconds into the video. "I'm using black, brown and buff oil paint to make a dark browny grey wash which is diluted with ordinary ___________" I can't pick that last part up.

[ScaleModelMedic]

@CplCoyote

The audio mixing on this one is poor... I apologise. I said "Ordinary White Spirit" which is just a thinner for oil paint, it's sometimes called Mineral spirits, or you could use a turpentine such as Mig Thinner for Washes it really doesn't matter much, it's just a thinner for oil paints.

[MrMadmanUSA]

Love these videos. Keep them up.

I would love to see some examples of desert weathering, sand.

[grimthoughts]

@MrMadmanUSA - Yes! I am currently beginning an M1A1 Abrams AIM. It will be painted tan and I would love to see some desert weathering tips!

[grimthoughts]

When doing a "wash" does it mean exactly what you just did or can you spread it through out the model? Like some people say "heavy wash." I ask this because on a model that I am building the color of it is neutral gray and I want it to look weathered through out. So I applied a heavy dark gray wash to make it look used. Will a light black wash like you have show work well with those colors for the recessed panels and lifted areas? Was the technique I described legitimate? Or did I just foul up?

[ScaleModelMedic]

The wash I have applied is simply a detail wash or "pin wash". I think the technique you are describing is commonly known as a "filter". Basically you use a very thin wash to adjust the colour of your model to suit. You can build this up in layers.

To be perfectly honest - there's no right or wrong way ! You haven't fouled up. If it looks right for you then you just learned something. If you don't like it try again. Have fun, go nuts with it, Experiment!

[beowulf04844]

a question........how long do you let the oil paint wash go off before clearing with future?....

[ScaleModelMedic]

I usually speed-dry the paint with a heat gun (if you try this then BE CAREFUL !! you can melt the model) until it is thoroughly dry to the touch. Some people like to leave the paint hours to harden off, I have done both, both worked fine for me. Because the oils are so diluted they dry quickly.

[Number1GamerAsh]

a very talented man !

[bzzhuh]

Hello Mr Scalemodelmedic I like your videos. I bought some oil paints and I'm going to try out some of your weathering techniques. My model is painted in tamiya acrylic and I put a spray coat of the Tamiya TS-13 "CLEAR" on top. I was wondering if you could tell me if that's going to serve the same purpose as your protective gloss coat? Also I couldn't find any "white spirit" so I bought "Grumbacher pre-tested odorless thinner solvant inodore". Will this work?

[ScaleModelMedic]

Hey there, the Tamiya Clear is a good alternative to the future I Use. I have a couple of pots of that stuff myself and have tried it out - so I know it works fine. As for your odorless thinner - that should work too, so long as it dilutes your oils I can't see there being a problem.

Best thing to do - get a piece of plastic card or a spare model part and give it all a test on there first. Remember to seal your oil paints in between layers with acrylic - so the next oil layer doesn't mix.

[bzzhuh]

Thank you sir... much appreciated.

I'm a bit nervous about going forward but I will let the chips fall as they may. Also, well dont with your decals over top of the bumpy parts... I have trouble with that.

[bzzhuh]

I mean well done... oops

[noragreen12342001]

Hi, can you also tell me why you give it a gloss coat using varnish? Thanks.

[ScaleModelMedic]

Hi, good question... the reason for the gloss coat is to give the model a surface along which the wash will really flow. If you look at the video at 1:19 you can see this happen when the brush touches the panel line. If this hadn't been onto a gloss coat the wash would not have flowed that freely and I may have got "tide marks" where the wash soaked into the base coat.

[noragreen12342001]

Hi, that looks very "green" for olive drab - I use Humbrol olive drab no 66 which is much darker. What brand of paint do you use? Am I correct in using such a dark shade of olive drab for US ww2 vehicles? Thanks.

[lanceman24]

Well done!

[7511232]

I have to use what color to mix it to that black color ?

[ScaleModelMedic]

the wash was mixed using oil paints from Windsor & Newton. The colours I use for washes are lamp black, burnt umber and buff. You could also use burnt sienna or any brown really.

[ftyuip]

what did you seal the model with at the end ?

[ScaleModelMedic]

Hi

I used another coat of Kleer/Future acrylic floor varnish.

cheers

Jon

[kng2003ca]

Jon, do you add water to Kleer/Future for airbrushing?  thx...Kevin

[kng2003ca]

whats the ratio of water and Kleer? thx...Kevin

[ScaleModelMedic]

you can add water for airbrushing and use a couple of thinner coats. 50/50 would work for this. I tend to airbrush it neat, with no water. It goes through my Iwata HP-C no problem.

[bacter789]

nice model!! good tutorial, thanks for the tips, keep making good videos

Can you tell me the scale of the model?

Thanks! :D

[ScaleModelMedic]

the model is a 1:35 scale M2A1 Halftrack from Dragon Models Ltd.