I never understood why some gyms have their grigris bolted to the ground. It gives the belayer a lot less control. Grigris are meant to be clipped to the belayer's harness, and this guy is wrong, there is always a degree of stretch in the rope.
using a static rope is good in such a sucky gym... since its only like 4 meter high or so .. but if ur climbing outside or in real gyms (10 meters + ) you should use one with stretch since it will brake the climber slowly in case he falls down... because if you fall 3 meters on a static line it could hurt your back !! This guy is an idiot btw...
@KaiKaos Metal to metal is fine as long as those pieces never have rope/webbing running through them. Metal-metal 'biners are only ever used for that purpose.
I've only ever been to one climbing gym, and they used a carabiner to attach an auto-belay to the climbing harness. Is the carabiner fine in that instance?
They had manual belay stations as well, but I didn't look too closely at them.
the first point you mentioned may right but there is a reason why they use in this gym only static ropes!! it´s to ensure that grounders wont happen because the gym isnt that high.
the second point you mentioned is absolutely right (even though there might be a reason for that like recreational patients). still they should at least work with two carabiners for the climber and the carabiners shouldnt be twistlock (seemed like it was - but not quite sure)
@sr25lover dont worry.. this guy doesnt know anything about climbing except the names of the holds and the equipment. I bet he won the gym in like a lottery and didnt know what to do with it ..
@Razakww Too easy to crossload and no need to pay attention to a HMS while you are on the wall. I have seen a few gyms do this and I think it is a very poor decision to teach this as you never know when someone may be going outside to climb. Teach it right the first time and prevent accidents.
Not to mention staff needing to constantly check the knots that are forever in the rope...NEVER leave a knot in rope it degrades so fast and you cannot inspect the knot to tell if/when it will fail. I would rather teach people the knots and show them the right way the first time.
You should never attach the rope to your harness with a carabiner. This guy has no clue. Always run the rope through your leg and waist loop where your belay loop is attached. You are not supposed to climb with static rope either.... that's for rappelling. This guy should be fired.
Thats a good question about the static line.... especially with a carabiner on the end of it to simply clip the climber in. That'll tear the belay loop right off a harness with any kind of a fall dyno-ing or lunging...
I never understood why some gyms have their grigris bolted to the ground. It gives the belayer a lot less control. Grigris are meant to be clipped to the belayer's harness, and this guy is wrong, there is always a degree of stretch in the rope.
MissKennyBee 8 months ago
using a static rope is good in such a sucky gym... since its only like 4 meter high or so .. but if ur climbing outside or in real gyms (10 meters + ) you should use one with stretch since it will brake the climber slowly in case he falls down... because if you fall 3 meters on a static line it could hurt your back !! This guy is an idiot btw...
DrunkenKakadu 9 months ago
/watch?v=iu1FsM2WbV8
jal3862 1 year ago
I thought you were never supposed to put metal to metal?
KaiKaos 1 year ago
@KaiKaos Metal to metal is fine as long as those pieces never have rope/webbing running through them. Metal-metal 'biners are only ever used for that purpose.
jal3862 1 year ago
I don't remember the name, but there is a device which you don't have to hold open while lead climbing.. it locks on release..
jhanayoga 1 year ago
I've only ever been to one climbing gym, and they used a carabiner to attach an auto-belay to the climbing harness. Is the carabiner fine in that instance?
They had manual belay stations as well, but I didn't look too closely at them.
sacredchao23 2 years ago
I've never seen static rope used, and I've been all over the country climbing indoors.
Also, never use a carabiner to attach the climber to the rope. Tie a figure-8 retrace knot through the tie-in points on your harness.
sr25lover 2 years ago 2
the first point you mentioned may right but there is a reason why they use in this gym only static ropes!! it´s to ensure that grounders wont happen because the gym isnt that high.
the second point you mentioned is absolutely right (even though there might be a reason for that like recreational patients). still they should at least work with two carabiners for the climber and the carabiners shouldnt be twistlock (seemed like it was - but not quite sure)
DERMARTINi 2 years ago
@sr25lover dont worry.. this guy doesnt know anything about climbing except the names of the holds and the equipment. I bet he won the gym in like a lottery and didnt know what to do with it ..
DrunkenKakadu 9 months ago
I climb hard, indoors and out, and these practices aren't used in any gym I've ever been to. Static ropes? Ground anchors? This is nutty.
lopside0 2 years ago 2
Never use a biner to attach you... It is so silly...
Razakww 2 years ago 2
@Razakww Too easy to crossload and no need to pay attention to a HMS while you are on the wall. I have seen a few gyms do this and I think it is a very poor decision to teach this as you never know when someone may be going outside to climb. Teach it right the first time and prevent accidents.
gheib1 2 years ago
Not to mention staff needing to constantly check the knots that are forever in the rope...NEVER leave a knot in rope it degrades so fast and you cannot inspect the knot to tell if/when it will fail. I would rather teach people the knots and show them the right way the first time.
gheib1 2 years ago
It's just top roping inside, static is fine for a 25 foot indoor top rope. most indoor gyms use biners on a bite to clip fast for begginers.
jclayn1 3 years ago
None of the indoor gyms I have ever been to use a biner to attach to the rope.
sr25lover 2 years ago
You should never attach the rope to your harness with a carabiner. This guy has no clue. Always run the rope through your leg and waist loop where your belay loop is attached. You are not supposed to climb with static rope either.... that's for rappelling. This guy should be fired.
BGDrummerLAS 3 years ago
nothing is wrong with climbing on a carabiner in indoor gyms. you are right about the static line though.
popgames 2 years ago 2
Thats a good question about the static line.... especially with a carabiner on the end of it to simply clip the climber in. That'll tear the belay loop right off a harness with any kind of a fall dyno-ing or lunging...
acodega 3 years ago
why static?! i remember falling on a static rope last month. it hurt. badly.
Cactus0225 3 years ago
Why did you stop,dude/
marcacu 4 years ago