the wildsmith loafer was made by edward green,wildsmith were not shoemakers.as all these shoemakers make for most top quality shops,they are entitled to have the shoe in their range.i used to go to wildsmith and they were cross when i asked them if some of their shoes were made by edward green.those of us that are in the know know better.@magicmatt500,you got it totally wrong.what do you say of wildsmith who poised as shoemakers and made nought.that said edward green is now overpriced.
berluti are 100% machine made crap, blake stitched, made in china finished in italy to keep the made in italy (which means absolutely ZERO today) and they use that crap venezia leather that wrinkles like theres no tomorrow...gaziano girling ready to wear are also machine made (bench made is a marketing term that means zero to quality) but at least welted....vass is a quality shoe, i have nothing bad and only good to say about them...
C&J hand grade are basically the same exact thing as edward green, only EG are pricier. Companies try to say "hand made" without completely lying so they say handgrade which as a word means nothing. What I like about c&j is that they are more affordable than their overpriced cousin edward green. Don't get me wrong, c&j, eg, etc are nice shoes, but I'm using the benchmark of a entirely hand crafted shoe, because quality can only diminish from there but cant get better...
Vass and Carmina are good value for the money. BTW, bench grade does not mean zero quality. Spoken like a true novice. Following the same logic, anything below bespoke shoes with an individual last, hand-sewn welts, and the finest quality raw materials, would be considered crap. You've obviously never experience the full spectrum of men's footwear. Once you hit a certain quality level, all that matters is fit and design. Shoes at this level all last 20+ years with a good rotation.
@brikwak I don't think you understood me. If shoes really are "bench made", then of course it signifies good quality. However, too many companies use the term as a marketing term and don't actually "bench make" their shoes.
are you kidding me? theyre 95% machine made, far from the best, not to mention they use crust leathers, and the real reason they do that is to save money (no need to purchase more than 1 kind of leather) but the leather never has the same qualities as a leather fully finished at the tannery
huh? I had to look up what that even means, and it makes no sense either way! You sound like the shill by making an outrageous claim that edward green shoes are the best in the WORLD when they were never anything more than 100% machine made (with a hand sewn apron on less than 1% of models) shoes. I give you facts, you make outrageous and baseless claims yet im the shill? Just got your p45 from green this year did you? Don't get all butt hurt because green NEVER made "real" shoes...
furthermore, their only hand process is the clicking, and thats only because they can't afford the extremely expensive die press machines to machine cut the leather, thats direct from the EG camp. They're not even goodyear welted because the welt is sewn to a strip of glued linen and not a leather insole ridge. Everything else from the lasting to the welting to the closing/sole attachment is done by machine. John Lobb st james, Minerva, Bemer, etc to it ALL by hand!
What do you think of John Lobb Paris shoes (Prestige and Classic lines) - also Ferragamo Tramezza line and Zegna couture shoes? In addition any thoughts on Fendi, Tod's and Bally? Thanks.
John lobb paris are hermes owned aka a conglomerate company. Hermes does value quality more than LVMH (berluti, lv, dior, etc), but its still a factory made, mass produced shoe. They use identical techniques to EG, but some like jlp better because of (opinion)sleeker lasts and the "museum calf" finish they use. JL paris bespoke is amazing of course but then the prices for it are through the roof. Lattanzi, Minerva, bemer, etc make a 100% hand welted and hand sewn sole shoe, but very expensive.
Also, all the italian brands listen are either conglomerates themselves or owned by one so the quality is way down. Tods as some interesting driving shoes that can be had for less elsewhere (paying for the name)..santoni's fatte a mano line which is handmade for the most part is nice, especially if you can catch it on sale. I tend to not like the antiquing on the Italian shoes since its often overdone and tacky but sometimes looks very nice.
@Khamomil JM Weston as of recent is a bit confusing to me because of their terminology they use. My French is OK but not good enough to understand very specific terms used in different contexts. The founder of JM weston brand came to Weston, Massachusetts in USA to learn the process Americans taught him, and to show his appreciation to America he named the company as the town. If they did not change their process, they are hand welted with the sole machine attached, very good shoes.
@Khamomil Also know that like many brands, JM weston is introducing new lines with easier/cheaper construction, but because what the people at weston say I could not get a direct answer. Their aesthetic finishing isn't as pleasing as lobb/green but if they still hand welt the shoes (most important part) then they are superior to lobb/green, which are both machine welted. I did see a linen feather at JMW before so maybe they are machine welting now. Their sole and upper leather is exceptional tho
@Khamomil Sorry for all the replys, but another note about the shank, or the peice of steel or wood or other material used. I just noticed in this video for the first time that EG uses a wood shank. Pierre corthay (french) uses this for his Pret a porter line as well as lobb owned by hermes. Wood shank is a sign of cutting costs. Steel shank is the best, but most of their customers are businessmen and dont want to take shoes off at the airport, but they could use a composite shank but its more $
I think you'll find they are goodyear welted, the goodyear term refers to machinery, youre getting confused with bespoke, its impossible to use the goodyear way with a hand carved insole, it can only be done with an awl and bristle, EG heels are built up by hand, no machine used in this process, C&J are cheaper than EG for a reason, they cost less to make, not only are C&J basically the same as EG, all manufacturers are basically the same, they all make shoes! materials and effort are what costs
@Dudufrias Edward Green are probably the best made shoes in the world, but that's down to the craftsmen they have working for them. EG originally only made shoes, not designed. There biggest cheat to date is copying the notable Wildsmith Loafer of Wildsmith & Co. Wildsmiths got these made by EG then shortly after, EG were producing a shoes called 'The Harrow' which was exactly the same...........you decide!
1 person is a woman.
slickvick456 2 weeks ago
I want one!
ciobistar1 1 month ago
the wildsmith loafer was made by edward green,wildsmith were not shoemakers.as all these shoemakers make for most top quality shops,they are entitled to have the shoe in their range.i used to go to wildsmith and they were cross when i asked them if some of their shoes were made by edward green.those of us that are in the know know better.@magicmatt500,you got it totally wrong.what do you say of wildsmith who poised as shoemakers and made nought.that said edward green is now overpriced.
paquitobites 2 months ago
the most important part of the process is 6.40 :-) I like too!
hornets599 4 months ago
lots of prep work
kopynd1 5 months ago
the best ever
barbarshater 6 months ago
What a fine bunch of coves and covette's these shoes look magnificent I will be purchasing a pair for my daughter's wedding next year
peterreedman 8 months ago
エドワードもぉ~最高だよ!ラブ注入!!!
mirukou111 10 months ago
@6:43 that guy REALLY puts himself into the work...i want some handmade club stompin boots from this place!
lestermagoo 11 months ago
You cannot beat handmade, though i myself have never to my knowledge worn handmade but you can appreciate the quality.
Brighteyes1ful 11 months ago
he looks like mick jagger
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justinajeffre 1 year ago
the radio next to the lady at 1:40 looks so cheap and all the material there are god damn expensive!
wung97 1 year ago
so beautiful! im a girl and gosh. i wish i could wear men's shoes =__=''
rubicscube007 1 year ago
@rubicscube007
maybe you could get such a pair bespoke-made for you?!
zumdidum 1 year ago
Beautiful work.
talon115 1 year ago 2
My names edward green :)
CommonDreadzz 1 year ago
Isn't this the same argument went on in Styleforum and AskAndy...
clee19821013 1 year ago
Now all we need is some Vass, G&G and Berluti videos.
clee19821013 2 years ago
berluti are 100% machine made crap, blake stitched, made in china finished in italy to keep the made in italy (which means absolutely ZERO today) and they use that crap venezia leather that wrinkles like theres no tomorrow...gaziano girling ready to wear are also machine made (bench made is a marketing term that means zero to quality) but at least welted....vass is a quality shoe, i have nothing bad and only good to say about them...
martydrooo 1 year ago
What about Crockett and Jones handgrade line?
myron24682468 1 year ago
C&J hand grade are basically the same exact thing as edward green, only EG are pricier. Companies try to say "hand made" without completely lying so they say handgrade which as a word means nothing. What I like about c&j is that they are more affordable than their overpriced cousin edward green. Don't get me wrong, c&j, eg, etc are nice shoes, but I'm using the benchmark of a entirely hand crafted shoe, because quality can only diminish from there but cant get better...
martydrooo 1 year ago
@martydrooo
Vass and Carmina are good value for the money. BTW, bench grade does not mean zero quality. Spoken like a true novice. Following the same logic, anything below bespoke shoes with an individual last, hand-sewn welts, and the finest quality raw materials, would be considered crap. You've obviously never experience the full spectrum of men's footwear. Once you hit a certain quality level, all that matters is fit and design. Shoes at this level all last 20+ years with a good rotation.
brikwak 7 months ago
@brikwak I don't think you understood me. If shoes really are "bench made", then of course it signifies good quality. However, too many companies use the term as a marketing term and don't actually "bench make" their shoes.
martydrooo 7 months ago
EG's are the best shoes in the world!
Dudufrias 2 years ago
are you kidding me? theyre 95% machine made, far from the best, not to mention they use crust leathers, and the real reason they do that is to save money (no need to purchase more than 1 kind of leather) but the leather never has the same qualities as a leather fully finished at the tannery
martydrooo 1 year ago
Shill.
Dudufrias 1 year ago
huh? I had to look up what that even means, and it makes no sense either way! You sound like the shill by making an outrageous claim that edward green shoes are the best in the WORLD when they were never anything more than 100% machine made (with a hand sewn apron on less than 1% of models) shoes. I give you facts, you make outrageous and baseless claims yet im the shill? Just got your p45 from green this year did you? Don't get all butt hurt because green NEVER made "real" shoes...
martydrooo 1 year ago
furthermore, their only hand process is the clicking, and thats only because they can't afford the extremely expensive die press machines to machine cut the leather, thats direct from the EG camp. They're not even goodyear welted because the welt is sewn to a strip of glued linen and not a leather insole ridge. Everything else from the lasting to the welting to the closing/sole attachment is done by machine. John Lobb st james, Minerva, Bemer, etc to it ALL by hand!
martydrooo 1 year ago
I´m messing with you.
Dudufrias 1 year ago
What do you think of John Lobb Paris shoes (Prestige and Classic lines) - also Ferragamo Tramezza line and Zegna couture shoes? In addition any thoughts on Fendi, Tod's and Bally? Thanks.
myron24682468 1 year ago
John lobb paris are hermes owned aka a conglomerate company. Hermes does value quality more than LVMH (berluti, lv, dior, etc), but its still a factory made, mass produced shoe. They use identical techniques to EG, but some like jlp better because of (opinion)sleeker lasts and the "museum calf" finish they use. JL paris bespoke is amazing of course but then the prices for it are through the roof. Lattanzi, Minerva, bemer, etc make a 100% hand welted and hand sewn sole shoe, but very expensive.
martydrooo 1 year ago
Also, all the italian brands listen are either conglomerates themselves or owned by one so the quality is way down. Tods as some interesting driving shoes that can be had for less elsewhere (paying for the name)..santoni's fatte a mano line which is handmade for the most part is nice, especially if you can catch it on sale. I tend to not like the antiquing on the Italian shoes since its often overdone and tacky but sometimes looks very nice.
martydrooo 1 year ago
@martydrooo
Thanks for all the info only a "shoe insider" would know.
What do you think of the JM Weston brand? I think it's French. Quite pricey but an old brand with a classic line.
Khamomil 1 year ago
@Khamomil JM Weston as of recent is a bit confusing to me because of their terminology they use. My French is OK but not good enough to understand very specific terms used in different contexts. The founder of JM weston brand came to Weston, Massachusetts in USA to learn the process Americans taught him, and to show his appreciation to America he named the company as the town. If they did not change their process, they are hand welted with the sole machine attached, very good shoes.
martydrooo 1 year ago
@Khamomil Also know that like many brands, JM weston is introducing new lines with easier/cheaper construction, but because what the people at weston say I could not get a direct answer. Their aesthetic finishing isn't as pleasing as lobb/green but if they still hand welt the shoes (most important part) then they are superior to lobb/green, which are both machine welted. I did see a linen feather at JMW before so maybe they are machine welting now. Their sole and upper leather is exceptional tho
martydrooo 1 year ago
@Khamomil Sorry for all the replys, but another note about the shank, or the peice of steel or wood or other material used. I just noticed in this video for the first time that EG uses a wood shank. Pierre corthay (french) uses this for his Pret a porter line as well as lobb owned by hermes. Wood shank is a sign of cutting costs. Steel shank is the best, but most of their customers are businessmen and dont want to take shoes off at the airport, but they could use a composite shank but its more $
martydrooo 1 year ago
@martydrooo I appreciate your taking the time to respond so thoroughly. I admit I know nothing of the shoemaker terminology.
What source would you advise for learning the basics of good shoemaking, for someone who wants to buy quality? Thanks again.
Khamomil 1 year ago
Comment removed
carragher2009 1 year ago
I think you'll find they are goodyear welted, the goodyear term refers to machinery, youre getting confused with bespoke, its impossible to use the goodyear way with a hand carved insole, it can only be done with an awl and bristle, EG heels are built up by hand, no machine used in this process, C&J are cheaper than EG for a reason, they cost less to make, not only are C&J basically the same as EG, all manufacturers are basically the same, they all make shoes! materials and effort are what costs
finga0973 1 year ago
@Dudufrias Edward Green are probably the best made shoes in the world, but that's down to the craftsmen they have working for them. EG originally only made shoes, not designed. There biggest cheat to date is copying the notable Wildsmith Loafer of Wildsmith & Co. Wildsmiths got these made by EG then shortly after, EG were producing a shoes called 'The Harrow' which was exactly the same...........you decide!
magicmatt500 11 months ago
@magicmatt500 Yes, I suppose so.
Dudufrias 11 months ago
Yes, I want those!!
pax156 2 years ago