Added: 1 year ago
From: tjwiltube
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  • @henchman99942...Good point on the JB Weld. It doesn't hold up to the high temperature. This was a quick, experimental build, and JB Weld was what I had on hand. It served its purpose in the moment. I disagree regarding your assertion that nothing is being gassed. Sorry, your statement is incorrect. ALL wood fires involve pyrolysis. The trick is to divert the wood's volatiles to a desired location prior to oxidizing it.  In this case, most of the volatiles were diverted to the gas jets

  • @1acroyear1...The music is from a 1960's era, 33 1/3 rpm album titled "Dreams." Artists included the talented Brecker Brothers on brass, and Billy Cobham Jr. on percussion.

  • great music love it

  • I just want to know the name/ artist of that song.

  • OK.

    1) don't use JB weld on stuff you will burn wood in.

    2) that is not a gasifier. Nothing is being gased. A gasifier heats wood without oxygen and the wood gives off gases that burn. The design here simply burns wood.

    Youtube search:

    MAKING BIOCHAR: with Peter Hirst of New England Biochar

    Here you have an enclosed inner chamber with wood that is heated by burning wood in an outer chamber. Gases from wood in the inner chamber burn once the burning outer wood gets it hot enough.

  • ill give yo a nickel to tickle my roasted pickel

  • love the stove but the music is greatttttt--who is it?

  • I used a product called muffler joint & crack sealer, to seal the lid to the top can. The hotter it gets the better it works. To apply you need gloves, eye protection, well ventulated are until it dries. Hope this helps, enjoy building.

  • I was also thinking of a fuel starter, reignitable petroleum canned heat, but would require a third can w/lid to suffocate the fire. Something we used in the Boy Scouts. I suspect a case using sparingly might be nice to have. But with a door near the bottom where sliding it out might also prove useful in a lager can where wet wood is an issue, etc

    Best regards

  • I've thought of coating the cans with engine paint, (to prevent oxidation) or even finding a way "firebrick" the insides of the cans (for added heat retention). Maybe there's a way to coat the insides of the cans with an even layer of small pebbles. Or, I've thought about brazing on some simple wire brackets that could be used to hold 6-8 thin rectangles of ceramic, and one ring for the bottom. With this mod, the inside can would basically just be a support for the "firebricks".

  • But adding the cage to the bottom of the inner can will increase that contact area to about 35 square inches.

    Maybe "adding a supercharger" your design isn't the best idea, though. Do you think it's better to have a slower rate of burn? Would supplying such an increase in air to the coals throw off the stoves "combustive balance"?

    Lastly, how durable is the soup can used as the fire box? If it tends to rust and burn up, have you considered reinforcing/heatproofing it?

  • I would bend the ends of the wire to give the cage kind of a flange that could be used to braze or JB-Weld it to the outside rim of the hole. I would probably still drill a couple of smaller holes around the big one. But I would cut the side holes (bottom of inside can) so they direct airflow like the others. I think this would greatly increase the amount of airflow to the fire. 41 1/8" diameter holes will give air access to 2.5 square inches of fuel.

  • You would know better than I, but 5 or 6 of these windows should suffice...

    I would do the same mod to the top holes in the inside can. I think this could yield more complete, intense and windproof flame.

    Third mod: Instead of drilling 40 small holes in the bottom of the inside can, how about one big hole (1.5") in the middle. Then install some sort of cage, maybe 1.5"x3", so it sticks into the inner can. A cage made of 12 or 16ga wire or bent strips of steel would probably work.

  • Have you experimented with trying to direct the airflow coming in the bottom of the outer can and/or the top of the inner can? If both were designed to blow air in the same direction, it might create a more steady and intense flow over the fuel. For example: instead of cutting circles for airflow in the oat can - cut a 1" vertical slit, with 1" horizontal slits on the top and bottom of it, to make an "I". This will create a "window shutter" type mechanism. Pull one "shutter" out and the other in

  • Bam. You nailed it! That's the best design I've seen.

    I've made many pepsi can alcohol burners in my day (a week in the wilderness on 3 Oz. of fuel is a good feeling!), and I love to tweek the plan a little each time. So, when I saw your design... Let's just say my wife and I are going to start eating oatmeal about six times a day.

    I've wanted to make a gasifier for backpacking for quite a while, and your plans are the ones I'm going to go with. I'd like some advice before I get going...

  • I used the same type of can for my wood gasifier stove after I saw this vid! My stove I used indoors!

  • nice, im going to use a one quart paint can, a 19 oz food can, and a tuna can. Detailed instructions for a similar stove are  at makezine.com

  • That's pretty cool, thanks.

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