Is the rotor in this video installed backwards? I have mine installed in the opposite orientation, but my Avid logo is facing outwards like the instruction manual says, and the direction arrow on my rotor is pointing in the direction of forward wheel rotation.
@tommy19677 No, the rotor in the video is correct. As long as the arrow points in the rotation of the wheel, you're fine. Some rotors look different than others. My setup uses Shimano XT Ice-tech rotors with BB7's since my wheels are centerlock. Anyone feel like they shouldn't have messed with the spring tension of newer calipers? I like the feel of the old ones better.
Does anyone know if Avid BB7 will work with any 160mm rotor? As I already have 160mm rotors on my wheels from the Clarks mechanical disc brakes that came on the bike. I liked the cheap Clarks brakes....just cheap entry level disc brakes, but want to upgrade and I like the simplicity of mechanical (please...no hydraulic suggestions, I only use the bike 2 or 3 times a week for commuting and hydros are simply overkill...thanks.)
@GhibliFan1 BB7's would be an awesome replacement, and yes they'll work with any 160mm rotor, but the ones that come with the brakes are good. They're reliable, easy to adjust, and have good stopping power/modulation.
@landline00 yep, that's basically how it works. What's nice about the bb7s is the ease of adjustment. You just tune the pads so that you see light on both sides of the rotor and bam. You're done.
I use Avid Juicy Seven hydraulic disc brakes and I have never tried Avid BB7, but I would like to, because I think they are easy to use and maintenance.
For those of you who are not familiar with disc brakes - when you install new disc brakes it´s normal that stopping power is not what you´we been expecting. You need some brake-in-period time before you get the best stopping power from your new disc brakes.
oh yeah, what else do I need to install these on my gary fisher with existing v brakes? I think I need this wide assortment of hardware: centerlock adapter for my rear wheel,special rotor wrench, allen wrench, disc brake cable set, cable & housing cutter... buying all that plus the 2 bb7's will run me maybe $200. correct me if im wrong!
got avid elixir r, at some shop in temecula, CA, drove 3 hours there twice to end up paying about 220 for the set... and my fork and frame have disc brake mounts.. and v brake mounts too. only issue with brakes is the squeaking but I am going to sand down the brake pads.. ive put maybe 100 miles on them already
question, do I really need precise torque measurements when installing these? I am thinking about buying some of these for my gary fisher hardtail w/ rim brake, and I want to install them myself. but I dont have any tools but an allen key set , and I am no bike mechanic. will I need new cable and cable housing with this, does it include that? how about the rotor installation, does that demand special tools or skills? I got a centerlock hub on rear and a 6 bolt hub front, I will buy an adapter.
just got the bb7 a couple of days ago, got them installed. I dont think i have them tuned just right, My old v-brakes work better that these....are they suppose to be better than v-brakes or just better in the mud n water?
you have to break them mate i put bb7s on my 06 fisher and at first i thought my direct pull was better then i got them broke in with some hard stops and they were better plus the mud and water they are so much better
ive tried hydro disc brakes on a Pivot Mach 4 before. good disc brakes should be able to flip your bike over with a light pull on the front brake lever! i got avid v brakes on my gary fisher hardtail & you gotta pull really hard to achieve max breaking power.
Yeah, when he says 'critical step' he isn't joking, and he does make it look very easy showing it already aligned. That area is so small you need a strong torch lit from behind and a magnifying glass held in front. A strong torch should be enough actually.
Other than that this video is all you need to get rid of those crappy stock hydraulics. Or have a look at what you have to go through to get hydraulics installed in the first place. A lot of extra effort for everything these do naturally.
Most important question: how do you align the rotor when the CPS bolts are loose and the caliper is floating all over the place? You can create a 2/3, 1/3 gap just by moving the caliper with your hand and not the inboard dial adjuster. Then, you can just wiggle it around. It seems to me the CPS bolts shouldn't be too loose, otherwise you can never get the gap to stay constant... I am confused!
The goal of the 2/3 1/3 exercise is *not* actually to first align the rotor. It's to make sure that the brake pads stick out far enough into the viewing slot. (or whatever they call that slot you look into to see where the pads touch the rotor. Once the inboard pad is screwed in far enough, you'll be able to see it (or the metal holding the pad). Keep screwing that inboard pad in until it's about halfway through the viewing slot.
Then, when you crank in the outboard dial, you'll create that inboard/rotor/outboard sandwich in the viewing slot. If the inboard pad is halfway through the slot, the ratios should look like:
inboard pad - 1/2 way, or 2/4's
rotor - 1/4
outboard pad - 1/4
now, the ratio of the inboard to outboard is 1/4:2/4, or 1:2, which is the same ratio as 1/3:2/3.
Also, 1/3 to 2/3 isn't really a smart way to look at it, as the full gap of the viewing slot includes the rotor, which is not of 0 width...
the best breaks when installed properly (pads with correct clearence) i run them on my dirt jump rig, they compare greatly with hydrolics, but im always having a problem with the disc, it has wobbles. does any one know how to fix that?
This is a good video. I'm probably going to purchase some BB7's since they're cheap and probably a lot better than the hayes no names that are on my bike.
Anyone know what torque wrench he was using... looked like the park tool one but those don't really cover the torques used here.. like 80 inch pounds.
Somehow, if you pull the barrell adjuster nearly all the way out on the lever, the brake feels a lot grabbier and responsive. Did with my XTR lever anyway...
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
lol its "disc brakes" and you cant install them on just any rim :P I have a Specialized hardrock pro disc series with discs (obviously) and all the modification costed me $500 plus the bike alone wich costed me $1800 dollars. I'm a serious 15 year old mountain biker :) i also have a candy red specialized rockhopper comp.
wow you got screwed over! If you really paryed $1800 for a hardrock pro, then you are a serious 15 year old mountain biker that knows nothing about anything
Is the rotor in this video installed backwards? I have mine installed in the opposite orientation, but my Avid logo is facing outwards like the instruction manual says, and the direction arrow on my rotor is pointing in the direction of forward wheel rotation.
tommy19677 4 months ago
@tommy19677 No, the rotor in the video is correct. As long as the arrow points in the rotation of the wheel, you're fine. Some rotors look different than others. My setup uses Shimano XT Ice-tech rotors with BB7's since my wheels are centerlock. Anyone feel like they shouldn't have messed with the spring tension of newer calipers? I like the feel of the old ones better.
crellis0290 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Does inch/pounds really matter? Can i just tighten it a good amount?
citsavas 4 months ago
My BB7 with 203 rotor will stop an elephant.
Obviously that elephant has to be riding a bike.
boredlittleboy 6 months ago 2
Higher quality please. Heard of 720p or 1080p? thanks
anoravkram 7 months ago 3
@anoravkram it was filmed in 2007. :)
stormcsss 4 months ago
@anoravkram THE VIDEO IS 4 YEARS OLD!
IFraggerProductions 3 months ago
question: is there a difference between the bb7 road and mountain versions, besides colour?
I have each version on 2 bikes and they feel equally as good...
1BeatTheStig 7 months ago
Hey, what size bolts do I need to mount the BB7 calipers to the fork IS and rear mounts? (I don't have the bolts to compare to). Thanks!
GaunMan512 8 months ago
@GaunMan512
M6x20 or M6x30
opmike343 8 months ago
Very Helpful. Thanks!
Tom
Ipswich, MA
tciscute 9 months ago
Does anyone know if Avid BB7 will work with any 160mm rotor? As I already have 160mm rotors on my wheels from the Clarks mechanical disc brakes that came on the bike. I liked the cheap Clarks brakes....just cheap entry level disc brakes, but want to upgrade and I like the simplicity of mechanical (please...no hydraulic suggestions, I only use the bike 2 or 3 times a week for commuting and hydros are simply overkill...thanks.)
GhibliFan1 9 months ago
@GhibliFan1 BB7's would be an awesome replacement, and yes they'll work with any 160mm rotor, but the ones that come with the brakes are good. They're reliable, easy to adjust, and have good stopping power/modulation.
lmbngtracer7975 7 months ago
@lmbngtracer7975 Dumb question: So, as the pads wear down, do you have to turn both pads in? Do you tune them both counterclockwise?
landline00 7 months ago
@landline00 yep, that's basically how it works. What's nice about the bb7s is the ease of adjustment. You just tune the pads so that you see light on both sides of the rotor and bam. You're done.
lmbngtracer7975 7 months ago
great info I didn't realize the 1/3 to 2/3 caliper placement
KarlYuhas 11 months ago
super easy following these directions. I got mine setup in 10 mins. Thanks for the cool tut!
technoanarkst 11 months ago
what is the different between bb7 mountain and road version? can i use the mountain version with 105 sti lever?
mekore 1 year ago
АХахха) велик называется СРАМ! ахах_ срам и позор этому велику:DDD
starikovss 1 year ago
Did he just say "beautiful HB"......
LANDOPERK 1 year ago 18
@LANDOPERK
Yes he did and I think it's creepy when one talks in the 3rd person!
borisbulldog 4 months ago
I use Avid Juicy Seven hydraulic disc brakes and I have never tried Avid BB7, but I would like to, because I think they are easy to use and maintenance.
For those of you who are not familiar with disc brakes - when you install new disc brakes it´s normal that stopping power is not what you´we been expecting. You need some brake-in-period time before you get the best stopping power from your new disc brakes.
Sun9C 1 year ago
Holy common sense, batman! :-D
ericksont 1 year ago 5
oh yeah, what else do I need to install these on my gary fisher with existing v brakes? I think I need this wide assortment of hardware: centerlock adapter for my rear wheel,special rotor wrench, allen wrench, disc brake cable set, cable & housing cutter... buying all that plus the 2 bb7's will run me maybe $200. correct me if im wrong!
gamrkidd 2 years ago
try Jenson USA for caliper and rotor under $50
!! if you have Vbrake how will you mount the calipers ?
chickeee 1 year ago
@chickeee
got avid elixir r, at some shop in temecula, CA, drove 3 hours there twice to end up paying about 220 for the set... and my fork and frame have disc brake mounts.. and v brake mounts too. only issue with brakes is the squeaking but I am going to sand down the brake pads.. ive put maybe 100 miles on them already
gamrkidd 1 year ago
question, do I really need precise torque measurements when installing these? I am thinking about buying some of these for my gary fisher hardtail w/ rim brake, and I want to install them myself. but I dont have any tools but an allen key set , and I am no bike mechanic. will I need new cable and cable housing with this, does it include that? how about the rotor installation, does that demand special tools or skills? I got a centerlock hub on rear and a 6 bolt hub front, I will buy an adapter.
gamrkidd 2 years ago
these or magura julie?
im more confident wiht cable brakes cuz i know how they work but i never had hydros before.
(btw this is for trials)
willmanhi1 2 years ago
I'd say a BB7. They're good for trials because they have more bite, hydros normally have more modulation. And they're easier to set up
RTAN45 2 years ago
just got the bb7 a couple of days ago, got them installed. I dont think i have them tuned just right, My old v-brakes work better that these....are they suppose to be better than v-brakes or just better in the mud n water?
812angelobrav 2 years ago
you have to break them mate i put bb7s on my 06 fisher and at first i thought my direct pull was better then i got them broke in with some hard stops and they were better plus the mud and water they are so much better
vamperise 2 years ago
ive tried hydro disc brakes on a Pivot Mach 4 before. good disc brakes should be able to flip your bike over with a light pull on the front brake lever! i got avid v brakes on my gary fisher hardtail & you gotta pull really hard to achieve max breaking power.
gamrkidd 2 years ago
@liquid00007 ... yes - you've got it. I was clearly in too deep... the inboard gap should be twice as wide as the outboard gap... thank you! : )
jeffmefun 2 years ago
Yeah, when he says 'critical step' he isn't joking, and he does make it look very easy showing it already aligned. That area is so small you need a strong torch lit from behind and a magnifying glass held in front. A strong torch should be enough actually.
Other than that this video is all you need to get rid of those crappy stock hydraulics. Or have a look at what you have to go through to get hydraulics installed in the first place. A lot of extra effort for everything these do naturally.
liquid00007 2 years ago
whats better, these Avid BB7 mechanicals
or
Hayes Stroker Trail hydros???
gamrkidd 2 years ago
Most important question: how do you align the rotor when the CPS bolts are loose and the caliper is floating all over the place? You can create a 2/3, 1/3 gap just by moving the caliper with your hand and not the inboard dial adjuster. Then, you can just wiggle it around. It seems to me the CPS bolts shouldn't be too loose, otherwise you can never get the gap to stay constant... I am confused!
jeffmefun 2 years ago
Ok... now, I think I have it.
The goal of the 2/3 1/3 exercise is *not* actually to first align the rotor. It's to make sure that the brake pads stick out far enough into the viewing slot. (or whatever they call that slot you look into to see where the pads touch the rotor. Once the inboard pad is screwed in far enough, you'll be able to see it (or the metal holding the pad). Keep screwing that inboard pad in until it's about halfway through the viewing slot.
jeffmefun 2 years ago
Then, when you crank in the outboard dial, you'll create that inboard/rotor/outboard sandwich in the viewing slot. If the inboard pad is halfway through the slot, the ratios should look like:
inboard pad - 1/2 way, or 2/4's
rotor - 1/4
outboard pad - 1/4
now, the ratio of the inboard to outboard is 1/4:2/4, or 1:2, which is the same ratio as 1/3:2/3.
Also, 1/3 to 2/3 isn't really a smart way to look at it, as the full gap of the viewing slot includes the rotor, which is not of 0 width...
jeffmefun 2 years ago
Or in other words, the inboard gap should be twice as big as the outboard gap.
liquid00007 2 years ago
the best breaks when installed properly (pads with correct clearence) i run them on my dirt jump rig, they compare greatly with hydrolics, but im always having a problem with the disc, it has wobbles. does any one know how to fix that?
highroller921 2 years ago
Does anyone know the difference between the mtb and the road version? Can't find any informations about that.
esp901 2 years ago
does anyone know if the rotor will bend slightly when the brake lever is pressed? is it normal?
mahlerianvidz 2 years ago
apparently only the outside pads moves, the inside pad is stationary. the outside pads bends the rotor to touch the inside pad
fiishywiishy 2 years ago 2
on mine it bends a bit but my rotor isn't bent permanently though
gincarzo 2 years ago
Yep, got these 2 months ago, I'm using Shimano XTR rotors with them. excellent brakes they are, always there when you need it.
mahlerianvidz 2 years ago
yeah the only thing i can't seem to figure out is how to get the brake pads out =S
gincarzo 2 years ago
isn't it just pulling out the tin stubs from below? A metal brace and spring in between will come out together with the pads.
mahlerianvidz 2 years ago
hmmm...haven't tried that , will try it later then lol thanks
gincarzo 2 years ago
how do they work?
wenloh 3 years ago
very good. Best mechanic brakes
maximuminus 3 years ago 2
This is a good video. I'm probably going to purchase some BB7's since they're cheap and probably a lot better than the hayes no names that are on my bike.
MattCA88 3 years ago
sram/avid is great. this is much much better than reading the manual
sliceofdelight 3 years ago 8
Anyone know what torque wrench he was using... looked like the park tool one but those don't really cover the torques used here.. like 80 inch pounds.
Borbuster 3 years ago
Looks like a Park TW-2 to me. They can handle 0-600 inch pounds or torque.
JuliusHT 3 years ago
all parts companies should do this.
trailextremist 3 years ago 2
WOw Legend H-ball
wrightwoodfilms 3 years ago
isn't these brakes supposed to be used WITH DROP BAR LEVERS??? I think that was the whole point of these brakes.
allth3s4me 3 years ago
the original BB7 is an MTB brake, but there is a drop bar version as well
parrothead2004 3 years ago
How do you install the cable into the lever?
I have the full bb7 set but I have the cables separate, jut no sure how to Properly integrate them into my levers..
Killswitch226 3 years ago
this is an awsome video. i just put some bb7s on my db and this video helped alot.
thanks!
bmxsupstr 3 years ago
thankyou verymuch!
new bb7 fitted and checked without any companys in volved
cheers
oli
crazyblockhead 3 years ago
Somehow, if you pull the barrell adjuster nearly all the way out on the lever, the brake feels a lot grabbier and responsive. Did with my XTR lever anyway...
Dan666061 3 years ago
I'm glad they make these visual instructions. It's a lot better than trying to figure it out with just paper and diagrams.
alphaod 3 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
avid sucks...hope,magura,formula,and even shimano is way much better then avid...and,avid looks ugly...
liuwenjie6678 4 years ago
good to know if i want to upgrade to discs
teslafan66 4 years ago
thats expansive :)
isusje 4 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
lol its "disc brakes" and you cant install them on just any rim :P I have a Specialized hardrock pro disc series with discs (obviously) and all the modification costed me $500 plus the bike alone wich costed me $1800 dollars. I'm a serious 15 year old mountain biker :) i also have a candy red specialized rockhopper comp.
masacrater1258 4 years ago
$1800 for a hardrock pro?
croscoe85 4 years ago 2
wow you got screwed over! If you really paryed $1800 for a hardrock pro, then you are a serious 15 year old mountain biker that knows nothing about anything
Teboner92 4 years ago 4
hey! im a 15 year old mountian biker...but i bought my hardrock sport disc for £280
bedbugg1 4 years ago
nice...mine was something like $600 but the extra 100 comes with buying from my LBS
Teboner92 4 years ago
Interesting video. It shows how easy is to install this brakes.
Thanks.
luckdufloripa 4 years ago