Added: 6 months ago
From: Matthiaswandel
Views: 78,826
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  • I would love to see you building a low cost cnc machine :)

  • Thanks for your all videos.

    Congratulations & Happy new year

  • matthias + circular saw? NO WAY!

  • those are Bone Red barrings lol that what i have on my skateboard :D

  • Sera que puedes poner subtitulo a los vídeos porque la verdad no entiendo casi el ingles.... gracias

  • I am looking so much forward to your release of the drawings. I have already inquired the local electro-shop for a suitable motor. They can make me an offer for a 1,1kW 1500RPM three phase motor with a control box, that have start / stop, electric brake, and power fail breaker.

    Would you reckon that this is a suitable motor size, or should I go with a 1,5kW when the time comes?

  • I have a 1 HP motor on it right now, and that's plenty of power. 1 HP = 0.75 KW output. I'm not sure if you are referring to power consumption or output power.

    The 16" bandsaw that I already have plans available for is a slightly better bandsaw though.

  • @Matthiaswandel That is the consumption. But since it is three phase I guess it has a efficiency in the 90% range and a design minimum efficiency of 78% as per NEMA class B - that is 860W or just over 1HP.

    This is my first band saw build and I would like to make it as good as possible. I am a master patternmaker by trade, so the woodworking is no problem.

    I plan to do a fair amount of re-sawing on it, as I would like to explore laminated woodworking more in the future...

  • @Matthiaswandel Really? I too was waiting for the 3rd design plans, mainly for 2 reasons 1) Simplicity 2) Crowned pulley. I do like the fact that the 16" is bigger not sure if that means anything, and no doubt I can always use crowned pulley on the 16"bandsaw design. Although the 16" bandsaw seems like a "longer build".

    Can you tell me why you say the 16" bandsaw is a slighty better version? Thanks in advance

  • I'll draw it as a V-belt in the plans. The crowned pulleys are just too finnicky. I will probably change it over to a V-belt at some point.

    The 16" is better because it's got more elbow room, the trunnions for the tilting table are also quite nice.

    The 14" saw is a bit simpler to construct, though the enclosure on the 16" was actually easier than the one for this one.

  • Comment removed

  • Hi Matthias

    May I suggest that you use Heli-Coil's for threaded inserts in wood pieces? You can get by with only the special tap and a modified screwdriver if you don't want to buy a kit. The inserts is very cheep and has a incredible holding power if glued in with a dab of epoxy glue.

    Maybe you know a auto repair shop, where you surly can try out a kit, if you ask politely :-)

  • No need to. The threaded inserts work just fine, and they are readily available.

  • This is kind of off topic but what microphone do you use for your videos? I haven't noticed until now but the audio is always extremely good in all of your videos.

  • For the live shots, I use the mike in the camera, for voiceovers, I luse a "snowflake" mocrophone from blue.

  • Thank you for the info about the leaf springs. You're a swell guy to respond and so quickly.

  • Comment removed

  • When I tap plastic or wood, i generally don't run the tap right through. This gives a much tighter fit and makes it self locking.

  • Добрый день , очень понравилось ваше познавательное видео , здоровья удачи и побольше интересного видео ! C уважением Дмитрий .

  • 2:01 (off topic) Thanks for giving me the magic word for me to find the actual item I was looking for, witch was a "Joint connector cap" for another project I have.

  • You are such a clever and talented young man! Thank you for sharing all this GREAT stuff with us. Some time ago I asked about the blower on your pipe organ project. I just finished my calliope and used your valve box and valves as the basis for my project. Works like a charm Where did you find the leaf springs you used to hold the valves down on that? Thank You Thank You....Keep it coming!!

  • Small engine starter recoil springs (for chainsaws, I believe). In a pinch, you could cut up some of those black metal straps used to hold crates together.

  • Matthias, why can't the lower blade thrust bearing be oriented the same way as the upper and use a similar adjusting and locking mechanism? Or am I missing something? BTW, consider Liquid Nails wall board adhesive in a tube for the coupler, because it does stick to roughened metal. Yellow glue may react with the metal and deteriorate that and the wood - you probably don't need any adhesive anyway. I think I'll use your blade guide design for my own saw - I like those.

  • More details in the accompanying article (which I just released this morning)

  • I don't think that coupler nut is going to turn in the hole, lol.

  • your accent is so canadian :D

  • did you make the mallet at 4:13? hahah :D

  • Matthias, two things:

    1 - so why did you end up using the sideways bearing instead of the bocote block for the blade guides? Was it just wear? Did you ever think about or read about a long-wearing plastic, say torlon?

    2. Did you notice that when you were screwing in the second of the two black screws to hold in that coupling nut, the frame split a little bit? Just about in the middle of the coupling nut.

    Thanks, Frank Spillman

  • 1 - as i said in a reply earlier, plastic is unsuitable. No good when things get hot, and too soft. As for why sideways, watch my previous video that goes into that.

    2 - yes, it split a bit. I chiseled it flat. But I can only put so much detail in a video. For the full story, read the article (coming out tomorrow)

  • Very impressive!

  • Sure. Anyway these two last videos helped me figure out why my store-bought bs is so noisy, and how to make the guides for the big one I'm building, many thanks for that :)

  • @armegeddon11: bocote

    @Matthias, did you think about using epoxy for the long hex nut you used for an insert?

  • I thought about it, but I was too lazy to mix some up. Roughened up the nut real good, so the wood glue doesn't actually have to stick to it to hold it in. Plus there's the wood screws holding it in.

  • What type of exotic hard wood is that? It looks like Lignum.

  • I used Bocote. Bought some offcuts some time ago, and the bocote seemed to be slightly more slippery than others. But you can always oil the blocks to make them more slippery.

    My first bandsaw still has the original oak blocks on it. For wider blades, oak is good enough.

  • show us how to make a wooden mallet!

  • smart

  • fuck saws, im building a saw out of wood to cut the wood

  • @thestupidguy4 but wouldn't that be a "wooden" saw lol

  • @thestupidguy4 sup dawg, i heard u like cutting wood, so we cut a saw out of wood so you can cut wood with your wood saw

  • @thestupidguy4 chuck norris uses his beard to cut through time

  • Always nice to see :)

    What type of drill u use at : 9:00 ?

    Greetings from holland

  • Cheapy $40 cordless drill from a bargain store.

  • Very nice to see your problem solving techniques in action =)

  • Nice!

    

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