Added: 2 months ago
From: srmastertech
Views: 1,582
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  • How did you get into doing diesel? Do you have your truck and coach technician license

  • @DominicDME

    I have always been into cars, working on them since I was 12, now 45! I just picked up on the over the years. Then when I went to work for Ford, I just specialized in everything, including diesels! You just have to have the passion for this type of work!

  • How Sid you get into doing diesel? Fo you have truck and coach license

  • I have the same cordless impact, the same 1/2" ratchet, the same air ratchet, and the same pocket screwdriver!

  • @mikeyred78

    Reliable tools and always too expensive, lol!

  • Now with doing the head gaskets with the cab on, can you also do the head studs with the cab on? Or does it have to come off, for those of us without lifts?

  • @neekoli69

    The studs can still be installed with the cab on, it just takes more work. You can remove the transmission mount and even an engine mount to gain access for studs.

  • What kind of flat stock are you using for cleaning surfaces stainless , steel , aluminum , what are the dimensions ? I have seen you use in several of your videos and I want to try it on my obs 7.3 rebuild . Thanks , your videos are very helpful and informative !

  • @roosterscruiser

    I use a cold steel bar stock steel. I have had them in 1"X1" square and 6 to 8 inches long. I have a machine shop surface all 4 edges, then it's ready to work for cleaning surfaces. I change the edge about every 4 engine cleanings. After all 4 are used, I resurface again.

  • @thebird95632

    This vehicle had the oil cooler fail 6 months earlier. That's when the damage was done to the head gaskets. That repair shop before didn't catch the problem and the firefighters just kept adding coolant. They brought it to me for another concern and I found the head gaskets.

  • do you ever send the heads out to be reconditiond? valve job, seals and resurface or just clean them up and reinstall? obviously depending on damage, just wondering your view and or common repair procedure you recommend

  • @violentmustang

    It all comes down to the engine condition, failure and what the maintenance was. Less than a 100K miles and no surface warpage, you will be god to re-install. Over 100K miles, I would send out, even with a clean surface.

  • Another excellent video!

    

  • @LosBanosF250

    Thank you!

  • Thank you sir. I was wondering what tool that was from another vid of yours. SRD35

  • Im always impressed by your videos. It really does surprise me to see that the heads were reinstalled using oem head bolts. Im sure there was a reason but I really wish Ford would release some kind of TSB mandating that all head jobs on a 6.0 use ARP or some type of hardened stud. Hell i bet ARP would be interested in a volume deal. This would have helped history, re-sale value, and bad rep of the 6.0 that Ford was blamed for. Studs and a bulletproof egr cooler would help majority of 6.0 owners

  • @jerbrerizz94 I do use ARP studs, but not as often. It is an option that we leave for the customer to make their choice. It also depends on their application. First, the head bolts have been redesigned and the torque procedure has also changed. With the revised bolts, they do not fail as easily as they first did.

  • @jerbrerizz94 For my customers who use keep them stock, with no programming, the updated head bolts and all they need. On a commercial vehicles and users who use a programmer, I highly recommend. Last is that is you use only the gold coolant, and distilled water. Then just monitor your PH levels to maintain your cooling system.

  • @joediesel187 Lifting up the rear of the trans. sounds like a good idea. I hope I don't have to ever do mine again, but I'll try that method if I do.

  • @jtyphoid it works but it tight.

  • @svt89 I just did ARP studs on my '03 Excursion 6.0 with the cab on. I didn't have the special SnapOn tool, but I fabricated something very similar to take care of that one stud. My hand-made tool is a bit slimmer than the SnapOn tool, so I can't say for certain that the SnapOn tool would have fit.

  • the left side cylinder head bolt,the last one near the fire wall, I just remove both 21mm nuts form the rear trans mount and lift up the trans. make it much easier to do.

  • @joediesel187 Can you do arp head studs with the cab on or do you have to take it off?

  • @svt89 yes.

  • @joediesel187

    Great tip Joe!

  • why dident you put arp studs those stock bolts are the reason its at your shop with blow head gaskets

  • @floppycock9 Poor maintenance is the reason why its in rustys bay... Great Video Rusty!!!!!

  • @jboydmv90 no the reason they blow is the torque to yeild stock head bolts stretch over time and allow the head to lift and leak coolent

  • @jboydmv90

    Your exactly right and using the incorrect coolant didn't help!

  • @floppycock9

    I don't always use studs. It all comes down to the application and how it will be used. Since the head bolts and torque procedure has been updated, they are reliable. Along with keeping your cooling system clean and use only gold coolant and distilled water.

  • You did show the the removal of the oil line from the branch tube in the first video, but it's always good to see things two or three times.

  • @LKCKR

    I didn't capture the RH stand pipe at all, my cam's were off when I though they were still on. They need a feature to turn off the auto off, lol

  • Hey look who got a new tool from Santa!

  • @LKCKR Have to love new tools!

  • Its a lot of work being a ford techician. Gotta love fords after there fixed. I've had more problems with gm's 4x4 system but absolutely no motor problems. I have had some problems with ford but the 4x4 hasn't been touched. I gotta say ford has outdone there trucks for years. Those 6.0l are junk but then again they outsold cummins

  • @Gasser4x4

    Every make has there own problems. I just like being able to fix them!

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