wHEN YOU ADD A FLOW OF WATER...THE HEAT DISAPATES RAPIDLY.
THIS WILL WORK IN A CLOSED LOOP BUT AS THE HEAT IS REMOVED(FAN -HEAT EXCHANGER) YOUR PUMP WILL NOT KEEP UP. THESE ONLY WORK WHEN REHEATING THE SAME WATER OVER AND OVER...THAT WILL RAISE THE TEMP..BUT AS SOON AS THE HEAT IS REMOVED...ITS INEFFICIENCY IS EVIDENT
Maybe, but keep in mind this was the first of testing this after assembly. The project is not finished and waiting for more testing. I had little info, no plans or drawings to go on. All I had was simply some pictures and a video I seen. I had to make an educated guess on rotor size, hole size & depth and all the dimensions for the entire project. I'm suprised of the results on the first build for what info I had to go on. I've found a few who have attempted the project and got nothing at all.
I built one- got steam coming out of it. I ran mine at 10000 rpm-BUT-I could only run a trickle through it and that trickle had to be heated and reheated. I worked with a person who was involved in the Friction heater of the 70's.They too got heat from their machines..but again more power was required on the input side than could be gained on the output side. You like me guessed on the set up. I may revisit this at some point but for now its hard to beat an electric element when heating water
I have started to get parts to build one of these. I have an old pump for use now but how did you over come the fact of getting a seal to stop the water getting into the bearing. I have been told various ways but am picking your brains at the moment.
I was also told to get it to spin as fast as possible to increase the heat in the cavitation effect.
what clearance did you have between the rotor and the cylinder walls?
I used a set of mechanical seals. They are the ceramic & carbon facing type typical of what you would find in a water pump. I just ordered the size I needed from an industrial supply company and designed the bearing hubs to house both bearings and seals.
It could have some special uses, but even if the project was pointless, with mechanical engineering you will learn something from projects like this wether it works or not, and what you learn can be applied to other things. Same goes for the machine work.
IF YOU WANT DETAILS ABOUT THIS TYPE OF PUMP CONTACT sherifstelar
sherifstelar 1 year ago
IF YOU WANT DETAIL ABOUT THIS TYPE OF PUMP CONTACT sherifstelar
sherifstelar 1 year ago
wHEN YOU ADD A FLOW OF WATER...THE HEAT DISAPATES RAPIDLY.
THIS WILL WORK IN A CLOSED LOOP BUT AS THE HEAT IS REMOVED(FAN -HEAT EXCHANGER) YOUR PUMP WILL NOT KEEP UP. THESE ONLY WORK WHEN REHEATING THE SAME WATER OVER AND OVER...THAT WILL RAISE THE TEMP..BUT AS SOON AS THE HEAT IS REMOVED...ITS INEFFICIENCY IS EVIDENT
smeng2 2 years ago
Maybe, but keep in mind this was the first of testing this after assembly. The project is not finished and waiting for more testing. I had little info, no plans or drawings to go on. All I had was simply some pictures and a video I seen. I had to make an educated guess on rotor size, hole size & depth and all the dimensions for the entire project. I'm suprised of the results on the first build for what info I had to go on. I've found a few who have attempted the project and got nothing at all.
andrewsengineering 2 years ago
I built one- got steam coming out of it. I ran mine at 10000 rpm-BUT-I could only run a trickle through it and that trickle had to be heated and reheated. I worked with a person who was involved in the Friction heater of the 70's.They too got heat from their machines..but again more power was required on the input side than could be gained on the output side. You like me guessed on the set up. I may revisit this at some point but for now its hard to beat an electric element when heating water
smeng2 2 years ago
I have started to get parts to build one of these. I have an old pump for use now but how did you over come the fact of getting a seal to stop the water getting into the bearing. I have been told various ways but am picking your brains at the moment.
I was also told to get it to spin as fast as possible to increase the heat in the cavitation effect.
what clearance did you have between the rotor and the cylinder walls?
Cheers
UNOMINER 2 years ago
I used a set of mechanical seals. They are the ceramic & carbon facing type typical of what you would find in a water pump. I just ordered the size I needed from an industrial supply company and designed the bearing hubs to house both bearings and seals.
andrewsengineering 2 years ago
1 /8 of an inch
theoneagain 1 year ago
What's the point? Would it not be more efficient just to heat the water directly with an electric heating element?
2ndKnight 2 years ago
It could have some special uses, but even if the project was pointless, with mechanical engineering you will learn something from projects like this wether it works or not, and what you learn can be applied to other things. Same goes for the machine work.
andrewsengineering 2 years ago
Seems this is good for generating heat in a fairly small package. Do you see any adverse effects of heat on the bearings?
amfan12 2 years ago
So far, I don't see any excesive heat on the bearings, the entire pump will heat up to whatever the water temp is.
andrewsengineering 2 years ago
Great!
rcpastor777 3 years ago