@mememojo Depends on how hot the load is and what type of bullet lube. You may get some after say 50 rounds or so. I now have a better trick for removing lead and doesn't require scrubbing. Mix 50/50 white vinegar / peroxide and fill your barrel up with it. Use a ear plug to seal one end. Let it sit for 15 minutes. One wipe with a patch afterwards will make the barrel clean as new. /John
Got any advice for breaking the extractor bolt? I've tried with all my life to break it, but no can do. It just spins and the textured metal just ends up tearing up the wood.
I also kind of dont want to buy a vise just for this one thing.
03.10 the wood or leather between rod and clamp is good, but i recommend to take the rod in the area more close to the cylinder. Taking it at the end increase the risk of bent it. Good idea use the aluminum tool from Brownells " extractor rod tool ", it make a clean job without the risk of damage or bent it. Hello from italy
@SolitarySoldiers Yea, I think they're all pretty much the same except your frame is a little larger. If you take the side plate off to access the trigger components - be warned - it may be a bitch of a time to get the hammer safety bar back in place. MidwayUSA has a couple revolver videos that doesn't address that but shows taking the revolver side plate off. Thanks for commenting. /John
@easydoz1 After lead, I try to shoot some FMJ. The hardest part about removing the cylinder is removing the threaded end of the ejector rod for the first time. It's on very tight. My first time I put two blocks of wood in the jaws of a bench vise and used the vise to clamp the rod end. Then, with two spent casings in the champers, turned the cylinder to loosen the rod. Be careful not to bend the rod and don't lose that crane hold-in screw on the side. Thanks for watching & commenting /John
Shooting jacketed bullets after shooting Lead is not a good idea. The jacketing will imbede some of the residual lead in the barrel down into the pores of the barrel. You cant see it just by looking down the barrel, however if u use a barrel microscope, you will see it there in the steel.
If you will be shooting both, you should at least try to wipe out as much of the lead as possible before switching to jacketed.
it is however ill advised to always run abrasives or stiff wire brushes down barrels too often. it should only be done when standard non abrasive liquid cleaners don't get the job done. remember that abrasives remove metal. only thousands of an inch at a time perhaps but over time you may end up damaging the bore.
Thanks for the great video, man! Never knew how to remove the cylinder on mine for a thorough cleaning. Now I do. I agree with you - it always take me much, much longer to clean my revolver than it does my semi-auto pistols, especially since it's stainless steel like yours and shows every little bit of fouling.
If you reload and you shoot lead bullets just coat them with ALOX. Problem solved. I fire lead though my .357 magnum all the time and if the bullets have Alox on them my gun does not get any dirtier than if I shoot FMJ.
@hardman476 No, it doesn't mess up cylinder timing. The timing is set by the case ejector spur in the center of the cylinder. Thanks for watching & commenting. /John
Oh and btw, don't do like the guy in the video : when using a brush, you should always go all the way through the barrel. In here the guy force the brush in the other way in the barrel, this does some damage to the rifling and the barrel.
Doesn't the copper wire mar up the rifling in the barrel? I think that cleaning with a sufficient amount of clothes soaked in Hoppes No. 9 cleaner would clean out the barrel just well enough.
@wdahm519 Copper is softer than steel. Therefore the copper won't damage the steel. This is the same reason why metal machinists use brass hammers. If you have a significant amount of lead then it will take you forever to remove it with Hoppes #9. Better to just follow up your day by shooting a few FMJ bullets through the gun. That should help get rid of some of the lead. Thanks for commenting and watching. /John
Great vid man! Thats a huge wheel gun! What caliber is it? I don't own any revolvers and don't know much about them, but I definitely want to get one one day. These look easier to clean than a semi-auto
@drgroove101 It's a .357 Magnum (bullet about the same diameter as a 9mm but usually a little heavier). This one has a 6" barrel. It's a beautiful gun. I love it. But if you want it clean as new it takes at least twice the time to clean as a semi-auto. Most of the effort is in cleaning the cylinder. Thanks for watching. /John
I like your watch too... ;)
lovingtanja 2 weeks ago
@lovingtanja Thanks /John
bearing01 2 weeks ago
about how many shots will cause lead fouling?
mememojo 1 month ago
@mememojo Depends on how hot the load is and what type of bullet lube. You may get some after say 50 rounds or so. I now have a better trick for removing lead and doesn't require scrubbing. Mix 50/50 white vinegar / peroxide and fill your barrel up with it. Use a ear plug to seal one end. Let it sit for 15 minutes. One wipe with a patch afterwards will make the barrel clean as new. /John
bearing01 1 month ago
Beautiful revolver my friend.
CarolinaJbird316 3 months ago
@CarolinaJbird316 Thank you. /John
bearing01 3 months ago
Got any advice for breaking the extractor bolt? I've tried with all my life to break it, but no can do. It just spins and the textured metal just ends up tearing up the wood.
I also kind of dont want to buy a vise just for this one thing.
Medic1911 4 months ago
@Medic1911 Do you have vice grips? /John
bearing01 4 months ago
John,I really like your channel very informative.
donthebodyguard 5 months ago
@donthebodyguard Thank you. /John
bearing01 5 months ago
Thanks for this video
rekenhavoc1 5 months ago
@rekenhavoc1 You're welcome. Thanks for commenting. /John
bearing01 5 months ago
great vid, thank you!
metalreign1 6 months ago
@metalreign1 Thanks /John
bearing01 6 months ago
@metalreign1 and thank you for watching & commenting. /John
bearing01 6 months ago
03.10 the wood or leather between rod and clamp is good, but i recommend to take the rod in the area more close to the cylinder. Taking it at the end increase the risk of bent it. Good idea use the aluminum tool from Brownells " extractor rod tool ", it make a clean job without the risk of damage or bent it. Hello from italy
lamiabanca 9 months ago in playlist Gun Cleaning
@lamiabanca Thanks /John
bearing01 9 months ago
Great job man thanks I'am sure my 629 Smith will dissasemble just like this ,thanks
SolitarySoldiers 9 months ago
@SolitarySoldiers Yea, I think they're all pretty much the same except your frame is a little larger. If you take the side plate off to access the trigger components - be warned - it may be a bitch of a time to get the hammer safety bar back in place. MidwayUSA has a couple revolver videos that doesn't address that but shows taking the revolver side plate off. Thanks for commenting. /John
bearing01 9 months ago
Shooting copper jacketed bullets really helps clean the barrel. That and no9 with a brass brush, does the job.
I have never tried to remove the cylinder. I may try it, since it looks easy enough.
easydoz1 11 months ago
@easydoz1 After lead, I try to shoot some FMJ. The hardest part about removing the cylinder is removing the threaded end of the ejector rod for the first time. It's on very tight. My first time I put two blocks of wood in the jaws of a bench vise and used the vise to clamp the rod end. Then, with two spent casings in the champers, turned the cylinder to loosen the rod. Be careful not to bend the rod and don't lose that crane hold-in screw on the side. Thanks for watching & commenting /John
bearing01 11 months ago
@bearing01
Shooting jacketed bullets after shooting Lead is not a good idea. The jacketing will imbede some of the residual lead in the barrel down into the pores of the barrel. You cant see it just by looking down the barrel, however if u use a barrel microscope, you will see it there in the steel.
If you will be shooting both, you should at least try to wipe out as much of the lead as possible before switching to jacketed.
2238945gbs 11 months ago
@2238945gbs Thanks /John
bearing01 11 months ago
it is however ill advised to always run abrasives or stiff wire brushes down barrels too often. it should only be done when standard non abrasive liquid cleaners don't get the job done. remember that abrasives remove metal. only thousands of an inch at a time perhaps but over time you may end up damaging the bore.
dallasdad1202 11 months ago
@dallasdad1202 Thanks. Yea, I try to stick with using the basic copper bore brush. Thanks for commenting. /John
bearing01 11 months ago
Thanks for the great video, man! Never knew how to remove the cylinder on mine for a thorough cleaning. Now I do. I agree with you - it always take me much, much longer to clean my revolver than it does my semi-auto pistols, especially since it's stainless steel like yours and shows every little bit of fouling.
jedwardc1982 1 year ago
@jedwardc1982 True! Thanks for watching and commenting. /John
bearing01 1 year ago
If you reload and you shoot lead bullets just coat them with ALOX. Problem solved. I fire lead though my .357 magnum all the time and if the bullets have Alox on them my gun does not get any dirtier than if I shoot FMJ.
crazyredlion4500 1 year ago
@crazyredlion4500 Yea, I got a bottle of it here on my desk. Thanks for watching & commenting. /John
bearing01 1 year ago
@bearing01 by taking the cyclinder off wouldnt it mess up the cycinder timing?
hardman476 1 year ago
@hardman476 No, it doesn't mess up cylinder timing. The timing is set by the case ejector spur in the center of the cylinder. Thanks for watching & commenting. /John
bearing01 1 year ago
Oh and btw, don't do like the guy in the video : when using a brush, you should always go all the way through the barrel. In here the guy force the brush in the other way in the barrel, this does some damage to the rifling and the barrel.
Rhinoch8 1 year ago
Doesn't the copper wire mar up the rifling in the barrel? I think that cleaning with a sufficient amount of clothes soaked in Hoppes No. 9 cleaner would clean out the barrel just well enough.
wdahm519 1 year ago
@wdahm519 Copper is softer than steel. Therefore the copper won't damage the steel. This is the same reason why metal machinists use brass hammers. If you have a significant amount of lead then it will take you forever to remove it with Hoppes #9. Better to just follow up your day by shooting a few FMJ bullets through the gun. That should help get rid of some of the lead. Thanks for commenting and watching. /John
bearing01 1 year ago
@wdahm519 Standard cleaning kit for the SIG550 has metal wire brushes.
Rhinoch8 1 year ago
Great vid man! Thats a huge wheel gun! What caliber is it? I don't own any revolvers and don't know much about them, but I definitely want to get one one day. These look easier to clean than a semi-auto
drgroove101 1 year ago
@drgroove101 It's a .357 Magnum (bullet about the same diameter as a 9mm but usually a little heavier). This one has a 6" barrel. It's a beautiful gun. I love it. But if you want it clean as new it takes at least twice the time to clean as a semi-auto. Most of the effort is in cleaning the cylinder. Thanks for watching. /John
bearing01 1 year ago