Excellent! Perfect placement of jack. No forces trying to disengage socket from nut. Simple and technically perfect . . . a rare find on Youtube. Thanks.
I wished I had seen this video2 weeks ago. I broke my 2 foot breaker bar trying to remove my hub nut. Your way would have saved me a lot of time and frustration, very efficient, well done.
I used a 1/2 for this video as I didn't have a 3/4 at the time but in any hi-torque application I recommend a 3/4 as even professional half inch sockets and drivers can fail especially if the tools are heavily used. No matter what the quality the metal has a finite fatique life.
That was pretty awesome. This is the best one I've seen so far on removing it. I've never done this before though but I'm going to do it when my rotors come in. Does it matter that the tab on the nut is still engaged or do you actually have to find a way to unhook it?
If the tab is part of the nut it will simply distort when nut is unwound. The tab will be weakened so a new hub nut should be used when re-installing otherwise it can't be knocked in to stop it vibrating loose. The car in the video used a big 'R type' pin and a castellated cover which can be reused. The important thing is tightening it all up to the manufacturers torque setting.
You're going to need a longer bar. Has the hub nut been off before? A previous owner or garage may have used thread lock compound in addition to torquing it up. If that's the case then it will be a challenging job. I'll send you a pm.
Many thanks, the hand against the floor advice was from bitter experience when I was learning the trade long time ago. Nothing wors than grazed knuckles on a cold winter's day working on a car...
In your video, you used an extremely long breaker bar which I have never seen anybody or any mechanic used before. Must have been 5-6 feet long ! Those I have seen used are usually only 3 feet long. Another brilliant out-of-the-box thinking of yours which I must adopt. Many thanks.
For the info of those facing this problem, some known and proven methods that will help to loosen tight nuts and bolts are 1) generous use of WD-40 lubricant 2) follow-up with moderated tapping of nut/ bolt with screwdriver (puncher) and hammer 3) follow-up next with another generous round of WD-40 and let soaking take place for 15-20 minutes 4) before using long breaker bar on heavy duty socket wrench and TK42138's brilliant idea of using scissor jack as support. Good Luck !
Man, you have created the best method of loosening the notoriously tight axle nut for the common man in the street who do not have right tool of an impact wrench for this job. The use of the scissor jack as support to take the downward force instead of the wheel bearings is brilliant thinking, which none on youtube has thought of so far. Great job and great video. Many thanks, as I too have an axle nut waiting to be loosened.
Hi, many years ago I used to own a 1969 VW Beetle. Had to torque up rear hub nut after a rebuild which is at huge torque. At the time I didn't have a dirty great torque wrench so I used a 6 foot tube and a set of bathroom scales. To get 200 foot pound torque using a six foot bar you need to push down with 33 pounds force or if standing on the scales you have to 'lose' 33 pounds from your weight. Awkward to do but it is effective in absence of proper tool.
Be aware that if using the bathroom scales method any flexing of the lever/pipe etc will make the force on the bar and thus the final torque result vary. However it's close enough to not be a problem so long as normal common sense and safety rules are followed. There are now electronic torque gauges available that fits onto breaker bar type tool. Has an LED and audible alarm when desired torque is reached. Just make sure you support the socket as per the video.
Yes, a longer bar will exert more force. For instance a 6 foot bar with you applying 75 pounds force on the end will exert 450 pounds force on the nut. Sometimes the initial force to undo a nut that's been on a long time is much higher than the fastening torque used when it was put on due to road dirt, corrosion and in some cases the use of stud and bearing locking compounds.
Funnily enough I bent the scaffold pole and snapped the breaker bar trying to remove the offside hub nut. Eventually got it off to find bearing/stud lock on the shaft threads!! Previous owner or garage must have liked the 'belt n' braces' method.
@TK42138 I'm on with this job now, knocking CV, and i usually brace with the axel stand, and guess where it is, under the car....all started with a leak from the PS rack, same as a xantia, check my vid....
What I like about this method is that the scissor jack is adjustable for cars with various wheel diameters/hub centres. More importantly because the socket stays horizontal, it reduces uneven stresses and less likely to wear which would occur if the socket was not supported.
The same method can be used to remove crankshaft pulley bolts.
Wow, that looks about 300-350 ft-lbs right there, maybe even more. Great idea on the jack. That relieves the extension bar of the duty of having to stay square with the nut.
yes, it was on extremely tight and the other side (driver's side hub nut) actually bent the extension bar when trying to remove it. The hub nuts are normally done up to 236 foot pound but age and mileage plus road crud effectively lock them on so the effective torque to unwind is higher than factory setting. This is also the reason I use impact rated sockets since I've seen normal sockets let go and I once saw a cheap socket shatter like glass under huge torque.
Right you are, sir, impact sockets are indeed worth the extra money in the long run, especially if you intend to do more than just routine maintenance. Of course it also helps to have a can or 2 of that good 'ol penetrating oil. Saves you the hassle of having to extract broken off stud bolts too.
The torque on the hub nut is nothing compared to trying to undo a crankshaft bolt on the old Ford 1.8 diesel or even the Honda VTECH unit. Had to use special locking bar and we could still see it start distorting. That was nerve-racking. We also wore eye protection on that day...
Even the crank bolts on PSU diesels can also be very tight and I always add a bit of Plusgas every day for a few days before attempting to remove it as it's easy to snap the bolt head off.
The other driveshaft nut (which I didn't film) was so tight I bent the thick walled steel pipe getting it off. Can happen if hub nut is original and never been previously removed.
Thank u
adukes3330 1 week ago
Great idea!!! tnx
aiolos60 2 months ago
Excellent! Perfect placement of jack. No forces trying to disengage socket from nut. Simple and technically perfect . . . a rare find on Youtube. Thanks.
arpy61 3 months ago
Brilliant idea, so simple and so effective, thanks
dotlink 4 months ago
I wished I had seen this video2 weeks ago. I broke my 2 foot breaker bar trying to remove my hub nut. Your way would have saved me a lot of time and frustration, very efficient, well done.
GerryJ08 4 months ago
@GerryJ08
Thanks - glad it helped.
TK42138 4 months ago
Awesome Video! Thanks
danthomson1986 4 months ago
Great idea man, great video!
amelb11 4 months ago
@amelb11
Thanks!
TK42138 4 months ago
Definitely a GREAT idea. Good video!
sunny5rising 6 months ago
The jack to hold up the breaker bar is just what I needed. I kept having the breaker bar want to twist off the nut before.
dcocozzelli 6 months ago
1/2 or 3/4?
xGUNxBUNNYx 7 months ago
@xGUNxBUNNYx
I used a 1/2 for this video as I didn't have a 3/4 at the time but in any hi-torque application I recommend a 3/4 as even professional half inch sockets and drivers can fail especially if the tools are heavily used. No matter what the quality the metal has a finite fatique life.
TK42138 7 months ago
That was pretty awesome. This is the best one I've seen so far on removing it. I've never done this before though but I'm going to do it when my rotors come in. Does it matter that the tab on the nut is still engaged or do you actually have to find a way to unhook it?
ETAteMyDog 8 months ago in playlist motors
@ETAteMyDog
Thanks.
If the tab is part of the nut it will simply distort when nut is unwound. The tab will be weakened so a new hub nut should be used when re-installing otherwise it can't be knocked in to stop it vibrating loose. The car in the video used a big 'R type' pin and a castellated cover which can be reused. The important thing is tightening it all up to the manufacturers torque setting.
TK42138 8 months ago
very impressive and good simpel video.
AyashiFX55 8 months ago
@AyashiFX55
Many thanks.
TK42138 8 months ago
Great bid never thought about using scissor jack. Always seemed to have a problem doin that bit in the past . Cheers
biggixer 8 months ago
thanks for the vid. have everything stripped out of my mazda 323 but couldnt figure this outta.
jackojeff 9 months ago
@jackojeff
Glad it helped.
TK42138 9 months ago
@TK42138 still cant get it off after using a maybe 3 foot bar with 15-20 cm extension and a draper expert socket
jackojeff 9 months ago
@jackojeff
You're going to need a longer bar. Has the hub nut been off before? A previous owner or garage may have used thread lock compound in addition to torquing it up. If that's the case then it will be a challenging job. I'll send you a pm.
TK42138 9 months ago
"First time in front of the camera" you could have fooled me.Very well explained,and the hand against the floor was a good thought.Well done.
Mrbenggo 10 months ago
@Mrbenggo
Many thanks, the hand against the floor advice was from bitter experience when I was learning the trade long time ago. Nothing wors than grazed knuckles on a cold winter's day working on a car...
TK42138 10 months ago
In your video, you used an extremely long breaker bar which I have never seen anybody or any mechanic used before. Must have been 5-6 feet long ! Those I have seen used are usually only 3 feet long. Another brilliant out-of-the-box thinking of yours which I must adopt. Many thanks.
opsvideo2008 1 year ago
For the info of those facing this problem, some known and proven methods that will help to loosen tight nuts and bolts are 1) generous use of WD-40 lubricant 2) follow-up with moderated tapping of nut/ bolt with screwdriver (puncher) and hammer 3) follow-up next with another generous round of WD-40 and let soaking take place for 15-20 minutes 4) before using long breaker bar on heavy duty socket wrench and TK42138's brilliant idea of using scissor jack as support. Good Luck !
opsvideo2008 1 year ago
Man, you have created the best method of loosening the notoriously tight axle nut for the common man in the street who do not have right tool of an impact wrench for this job. The use of the scissor jack as support to take the downward force instead of the wheel bearings is brilliant thinking, which none on youtube has thought of so far. Great job and great video. Many thanks, as I too have an axle nut waiting to be loosened.
opsvideo2008 1 year ago
Worked like a charm! Great video and thanks for posting! This just proves the old saying: work smarter, not harder. Cheers!
chronic788 1 year ago
Very nice move using the jack to help hold the bar in place so it doesn't drop. I have had some trouble with that very thing.
spraymalathionjerry 1 year ago
thanks buddy - that's great !
dachopper1 1 year ago
FUCKINGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
GENIUSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!
RobertGarrett19 1 year ago
@RobertGarrett19
Cheers mate, have a great christmas and a new year.
TK42138 1 year ago
To my understanding, you need to screw the nut on with the right torque, what would I have to do to get 150 - 200 pounds of torque?
undertake782 1 year ago
@undertake782
Hi, many years ago I used to own a 1969 VW Beetle. Had to torque up rear hub nut after a rebuild which is at huge torque. At the time I didn't have a dirty great torque wrench so I used a 6 foot tube and a set of bathroom scales. To get 200 foot pound torque using a six foot bar you need to push down with 33 pounds force or if standing on the scales you have to 'lose' 33 pounds from your weight. Awkward to do but it is effective in absence of proper tool.
TK42138 1 year ago
@undertake782
Be aware that if using the bathroom scales method any flexing of the lever/pipe etc will make the force on the bar and thus the final torque result vary. However it's close enough to not be a problem so long as normal common sense and safety rules are followed. There are now electronic torque gauges available that fits onto breaker bar type tool. Has an LED and audible alarm when desired torque is reached. Just make sure you support the socket as per the video.
TK42138 1 year ago
Excellent DIY guide! I almost gave up trying to do it with a 450mm breaker bar. Looks like the trick is to use a street sign pole. =)
000tiger000 1 year ago
I tried an impact wrench ( no luck) and a breaker bar (no luck again). Guess I really need to increase the leverage.
smithraymond09029 1 year ago
@smithraymond09029
Yes, a longer bar will exert more force. For instance a 6 foot bar with you applying 75 pounds force on the end will exert 450 pounds force on the nut. Sometimes the initial force to undo a nut that's been on a long time is much higher than the fastening torque used when it was put on due to road dirt, corrosion and in some cases the use of stud and bearing locking compounds.
TK42138 1 year ago
@TK42138 Love it. All torque and no downward force vector because you placed a jack underneath the socket extension.
smithraymond09029 1 year ago
@smithraymond09029
Many thanks,
same technique can be used on crankshaft pulley bolts if there's enough room to get long breaker bar/socket extension etc and care is taken.
TK42138 1 year ago
Excellent- it all seems so much simpler now...
bigiainw 1 year ago
Same method i usually use, works a treat, unless there really stubbon and need drilling off....
lezbriddon 1 year ago
@lezbriddon
Funnily enough I bent the scaffold pole and snapped the breaker bar trying to remove the offside hub nut. Eventually got it off to find bearing/stud lock on the shaft threads!! Previous owner or garage must have liked the 'belt n' braces' method.
TK42138 1 year ago
@TK42138 I'm on with this job now, knocking CV, and i usually brace with the axel stand, and guess where it is, under the car....all started with a leak from the PS rack, same as a xantia, check my vid....
lezbriddon 1 year ago
Watched this and used the method today , brilliant.
bottlespring12 1 year ago
@bottlespring12
Glad it helped.
TK42138 1 year ago
That's kind of genius.. tnx mate
jcvillaruz 1 year ago
@jcvillaruz
Cheers mate.
What I like about this method is that the scissor jack is adjustable for cars with various wheel diameters/hub centres. More importantly because the socket stays horizontal, it reduces uneven stresses and less likely to wear which would occur if the socket was not supported.
The same method can be used to remove crankshaft pulley bolts.
TK42138 1 year ago
Niiiice it doesn't look hard. I try that once and it broke my dads torque wrench :( but good thing it had lifetime warranty!!
juve89 1 year ago
Great video thanks.
TheSad200 1 year ago
@TheSad200
Many thanks,
watch this space for more engine and car 'how to' videos just as soon as I get time to edit and upload.
TK42138 1 year ago
are you on the frenchcarforum by any chance?
karldgirly 2 years ago
@karldgirly
No, but I am on the GSF forum.
TK42138 2 years ago
Wow, that looks about 300-350 ft-lbs right there, maybe even more. Great idea on the jack. That relieves the extension bar of the duty of having to stay square with the nut.
ChuddleBuggy 2 years ago
Cheers,
yes, it was on extremely tight and the other side (driver's side hub nut) actually bent the extension bar when trying to remove it. The hub nuts are normally done up to 236 foot pound but age and mileage plus road crud effectively lock them on so the effective torque to unwind is higher than factory setting. This is also the reason I use impact rated sockets since I've seen normal sockets let go and I once saw a cheap socket shatter like glass under huge torque.
TK42138 2 years ago
Right you are, sir, impact sockets are indeed worth the extra money in the long run, especially if you intend to do more than just routine maintenance. Of course it also helps to have a can or 2 of that good 'ol penetrating oil. Saves you the hassle of having to extract broken off stud bolts too.
ChuddleBuggy 2 years ago
@ChuddleBuggy
The torque on the hub nut is nothing compared to trying to undo a crankshaft bolt on the old Ford 1.8 diesel or even the Honda VTECH unit. Had to use special locking bar and we could still see it start distorting. That was nerve-racking. We also wore eye protection on that day...
Even the crank bolts on PSU diesels can also be very tight and I always add a bit of Plusgas every day for a few days before attempting to remove it as it's easy to snap the bolt head off.
TK42138 2 years ago
Is good if you got a long bar. Great video though my friend.
Zoltrix67 2 years ago
Many thanks.
The other driveshaft nut (which I didn't film) was so tight I bent the thick walled steel pipe getting it off. Can happen if hub nut is original and never been previously removed.
TK42138 2 years ago