So, you solder the other end of the wire from the + terminal to - terminal? Or do you just solder one wire to the + terminal and a different wire to the - terminal?
You really don't want to use an oil based flux for electrical soldering...this is for plumbing. You should use a water based flux for elecrical soldering.
jeff@bbrmotosports is a butt fuck squirl in that video is a dumbass he isn't soldering a li-ion battery witch you don't want to heat for too long. Xwingband is right and has a better video
hello x-wing, my name is william and i'm needing more info about the how to on battery packs. i get the basic concept of it but can i put 4 of the 123 battery together with out over loading the board, and i have some questions about the recharge ports i'v been asking around about these things to the other saber builders but most are too busy to answer my inquiries so would you be willing to have a sit down with me. if so please let me know. thank you.
Your solder tip is too small & too low power. 30-40 watts min is needed. It will heat the local area quickly and be better than low heat which may NEVER get it. The large metal surface wicks the heat way.
You melt the solder on the hot surface not melt the solder with the iron on a cold surface or you get a COLD SOLDER JOINT. Be more aggressive with roughing & cleaning the surface for no contaminates. The wire should be tinned first as well.
It's not some radioshack iron... It IS a 40W iron blasted all the way up. The tip may be thinner, but I've got bigger ones for it.
It's also not a good idea to heat up batteries before soldering, especially li-ions like in the video. Yes, it helps the soldering, but the batteries have seals which could be compromised by prolonged exposure to heat.
I tin my wires, I just don't state it. I also use flux to help lower the temp it melts at and adhesion.
No offense but 40 watts is what it says? How do you know it does that. It looks like it is for PCB. What is the temp at the tip?
That small TIP has LOW THERMAL MASS. 60 watt with a big flat tip will heat that local area up fast, up to temp so you can solder quick and remove the heat. You held it on there for a long time and really heated up the whole thing. Trust me use a bigger ass Iron iron, it will be better. There is no substitute for a BIG MF Solder iron for heavy stuff.
Yes, it's the specs. 40W and goes up to 900F. I agree it's meant for PCBs more. It comes with chisel tips and much larger ones I just didn't use them. I had been doing other stuff with it and didn't want to wait for it to cool to change tips. It has worked plenty fine and results in good joints the camera can't convey well, nor did I solder it for more than a few seconds.
This is not the be-all-end-all video. I didn't show tinning the wires or scuffing the cell surfaces, etc...
ok, if you are going to solder packs together, you are going to want a solder iron or gun of at least 80 watts of power to do a good job, if you want to see a good job done type in "how to assemble a battery pack" by Squirrelod, this guy does it the right way!
A huge honking iron isn't needed, it can actually bad for people that don't know what they're doing. As long as your not using some little 10W pencil iron and it gets hot you can do it. I made this for the people in my hobby that maybe need to do 2-3 cells.
Good job making a tutorial Xwing. Video is much better then text I think for explaining this stuff. Just a tip, it helps to tin both the wire and the end of the cell the wire will attach to before you solder them together.
Be sure to be VERY careful to not solder your cells together in a + to - loop or your battery will die in a most horrible way in front of your eyes.
I often pre-glue cells side by side before I solder because then they don't roll around.
Yup, I tinned the wire. I guess I forgot to mention that. Never tinned the cell though. I try to minimize my contact of heat with the cells especially for li-ions.
Hey X - Glad to see another video. Those tips are very interesting but I think I will leave it to the proffessionls ?! Will email you soon... yours Stuart-Darthbra.
Good job, X... it should be noted that for rechargeables, the cells should be brought to a similar charge prior to creating the pack... AND the overall "top out" point of the cells should at least be pretty darn close.
So, you solder the other end of the wire from the + terminal to - terminal? Or do you just solder one wire to the + terminal and a different wire to the - terminal?
ortizlgnd1 3 months ago
What ever.... I Liked it.... Hell,,, Whats not to like about a LiL Info..... Peace Man!!!
michael10725 1 year ago
You really don't want to use an oil based flux for electrical soldering...this is for plumbing. You should use a water based flux for elecrical soldering.
mjottman 1 year ago
jeff@bbrmotosports is a butt fuck squirl in that video is a dumbass he isn't soldering a li-ion battery witch you don't want to heat for too long. Xwingband is right and has a better video
jeff7972242 1 year ago
hello x-wing, my name is william and i'm needing more info about the how to on battery packs. i get the basic concept of it but can i put 4 of the 123 battery together with out over loading the board, and i have some questions about the recharge ports i'v been asking around about these things to the other saber builders but most are too busy to answer my inquiries so would you be willing to have a sit down with me. if so please let me know. thank you.
nicknatpacker 1 year ago
2:25 Houston we have a problem.
Your solder tip is too small & too low power. 30-40 watts min is needed. It will heat the local area quickly and be better than low heat which may NEVER get it. The large metal surface wicks the heat way.
You melt the solder on the hot surface not melt the solder with the iron on a cold surface or you get a COLD SOLDER JOINT. Be more aggressive with roughing & cleaning the surface for no contaminates. The wire should be tinned first as well.
gmcjetpilot 2 years ago
It's not some radioshack iron... It IS a 40W iron blasted all the way up. The tip may be thinner, but I've got bigger ones for it.
It's also not a good idea to heat up batteries before soldering, especially li-ions like in the video. Yes, it helps the soldering, but the batteries have seals which could be compromised by prolonged exposure to heat.
I tin my wires, I just don't state it. I also use flux to help lower the temp it melts at and adhesion.
xwingband 2 years ago
@xwingband
No offense but 40 watts is what it says? How do you know it does that. It looks like it is for PCB. What is the temp at the tip?
That small TIP has LOW THERMAL MASS. 60 watt with a big flat tip will heat that local area up fast, up to temp so you can solder quick and remove the heat. You held it on there for a long time and really heated up the whole thing. Trust me use a bigger ass Iron iron, it will be better. There is no substitute for a BIG MF Solder iron for heavy stuff.
gmcjetpilot 2 years ago
Yes, it's the specs. 40W and goes up to 900F. I agree it's meant for PCBs more. It comes with chisel tips and much larger ones I just didn't use them. I had been doing other stuff with it and didn't want to wait for it to cool to change tips. It has worked plenty fine and results in good joints the camera can't convey well, nor did I solder it for more than a few seconds.
This is not the be-all-end-all video. I didn't show tinning the wires or scuffing the cell surfaces, etc...
xwingband 2 years ago
ok, if you are going to solder packs together, you are going to want a solder iron or gun of at least 80 watts of power to do a good job, if you want to see a good job done type in "how to assemble a battery pack" by Squirrelod, this guy does it the right way!
bbrmotosports 3 years ago
A huge honking iron isn't needed, it can actually bad for people that don't know what they're doing. As long as your not using some little 10W pencil iron and it gets hot you can do it. I made this for the people in my hobby that maybe need to do 2-3 cells.
xwingband 3 years ago
Its SOLDER not Soder FFS!
megalightman 3 years ago
If that's your only problem then I'll consider it a decent video. Also, you're wrong, souder as a pronunciation is correct.
Main Entry: sol·der
Pronunciation:\ˈsä-dər, ˈsȯ-, British also ˈsäl-dər, ˈsōl-\
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle English soudure, from Anglo-French, from souder to solder, from Latin solidare to make solid, from solidus solid
1: a metal or metallic alloy used when melted to join metallic surfaces ; especially : an alloy of lead and tin so used
xwingband 3 years ago
hello im new to all this battery stuff. Ummm when you put the battery together and charge it. do you add the mah or do they stay the same.
annihil8ted 3 years ago
Depends... in serial. +'s to -'s you add the voltage, but the amps stay the same as the base cell you make it out of.
In parallel (+'s to +'s and vice versa) you add the amps, but the voltage stays the same.
You can also mix and match depending on what you need and want.
xwingband 3 years ago
awesome vid brother! I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos.
This new DIY style you have going is way helpful as well. Keep 'em comin' man!
silkvein 3 years ago
Good job making a tutorial Xwing. Video is much better then text I think for explaining this stuff. Just a tip, it helps to tin both the wire and the end of the cell the wire will attach to before you solder them together.
Be sure to be VERY careful to not solder your cells together in a + to - loop or your battery will die in a most horrible way in front of your eyes.
I often pre-glue cells side by side before I solder because then they don't roll around.
Cheers,
Eandori 3 years ago
Yup, I tinned the wire. I guess I forgot to mention that. Never tinned the cell though. I try to minimize my contact of heat with the cells especially for li-ions.
xwingband 3 years ago
Thanks for being thorough with details- so many people forget bits. That's such a struggle!
silverhoneycat 3 years ago
Hey X - Glad to see another video. Those tips are very interesting but I think I will leave it to the proffessionls ?! Will email you soon... yours Stuart-Darthbra.
0darthbra0 3 years ago
Nice. Good to have a DIY battery pack vid on YT... :D
ImperialSith 3 years ago
Good job, X... it should be noted that for rechargeables, the cells should be brought to a similar charge prior to creating the pack... AND the overall "top out" point of the cells should at least be pretty darn close.
greytale 3 years ago
Great video Xwing, good to know that with care you can make your own battery pack.
Ram21s 3 years ago