Professional SMT Soldering No. 2 (Revised) - Surface Mount

[insoomniiaa]

soldering is a art! :)

[jkgamm041]

You are correct. The reflows were not necessary. I wanted to present as much "wetting action" as possible showing how reduced surface tension and wetting forces accommodate this very unusual method of soldering.

In the late 80's when we followed MIL-STD-2000, many of us used a high reliability technique called "one touch". The theory behind this is that excessive dwell time or reflows will thermal stress the IC and promote embrittlement of the fillets which can cause stress fracture.

[nyge23]

the fillets look pretty neat after the first "pass" with the iron. so why do you always re-wet? some of our clients do not allow re-wetting of the same joint as it may compromise reliability. But those PCBs are installed on the seabed so you can understand those clients being fussy as a single install can cost £1m

[GuyWithGuitars1]

Damn this guy's good. I've blown up 3 classic Mac logic boards simply trying to recap 'em not to mention spending a ton on what I thought was good stuff to do the job right. Seems to be a skill you're born with. lol.

[0x777]

This is just plain awesome.

[MonkOfSkunk420]

f*** me you can solder. I've seen machine made joints not as clean as those. Homo Sapiens, the original and best precision machine there is. Wish i could afford the kind of gear you've got though.. I had to make a lot of my soldering kit myself or get creative with sourcing the right stuff.. You make this look easy and i salute you it isn't often someone attains this antisocial jerk's respect for anything.

[Emilufa]

Which liquid flux did you use?

Now for soldering QFP176 I use FluxPlus 6-412, it is OK, but it is gel, and i am searching for a liquid one.

[huddyyeo]

is that thing water or some kind of special liquid?

[ped9010]

@huddyyeo that's called flux. it's a must to do quality electronics soldering

[IMelkor42]

What's holding the ICs in place while you solder?

[cruddbucket]

why dont u jus solda each individi 1?

[TaukeaJarow]

how to remove computer motherboard chipset...??

[o0oD4n1so0o]

I just dont understand how this is done.... it looks like a magic trick!

[jkgamm041]

@o0oD4n1so0o

I have a new way that is much better. I use a high solids water soluble flux or if you are using a No-Clean then a high solids tack flux in a syringe works wonders to. The flux MUST be compatible with the flux core in your solder wire.

I set my vice angle around 45 degrees, not full vertical. Pre-tinned the gull wing leads with a solder pot, all dross removed. A "one touch" pull vertically , not on the foot but on the toe of the lead and pad. "One Touch" high reliability.

[jkgamm041]

@o0oD4n1so0o

No magic tricks. Once you reduce the surface tension and manipulate the "wetting forces" one can do some pretty interesting things with solder in its liquidous state. The PCB is verticle, flux de-oxidizes and prevents re-oxidation, the surface tension of the solder is reduced and the solder will always follow its center of gravity so we have manipulated our wetting forces to our advantage. This technique can be very temperamental and I recommend using a flat technique instead.

[deweywsu]

Will the Metcal large hoof tip fit in the Hakko FX-951?

[jkgamm041]

@deweywsu

No, it will not. The Metcal large hoof tip is an incredible performing tip, so is the Hakko for the FX-951. Initial cost and cost of ownership: Metcal MX 5010 is $650 retail and tips are $30. each.

Hakko FX-951 is $250 retail and tips are $10. each and their tips are extremely high quality with amazing thermal recovery and performance. I own one of each and love them both. You can see them in action in my other YouTube videos.

Stick with flat drag technique.

[tataee1990]

quick questions :)

what soldering gun do u use? what's the temp? what's the tip? flux and soldering paste?

thanks!

[jkgamm041]

@tataee1990

I use a Hakko FX-951 with 70 watts at the handle. It retails for $250. and is a top performer. I also use a Metcal MX 5010 with 90 watts at the handle. Retail $650. Top performer as well and they both have excellent thermal recovery.

Sn63 Pb 37 (eutectic) tin / lead solder, I use 600 F tip temp. Lead-free I use 650-700 F. Flux is a Kester 959 No-clean with 4% solids. Paste is a No-clean 63 / 37.

Tip is a Metcal large hoof. Hakko makes awesome drag soldering tips for $10.00 each.

[tataee1990]

@jkgamm041 thank you very much for sharing! keep up with the good work!

[whiskeyify]

I'm 60 years old so have done electronic repair for many years, I don't know anything about surface mount technology. But I wonder if you don't have to be careful not to overheat the chip with this method. Is it safer to many solder one pin at a time?

[jkgamm041]

@whiskeyify

I presented this technique as another way to surface mount solder. As my skills have evolved substantially I now promote what is referred to as "one touch" soldering for minimum thermal stress..

This technique is quite unorthodox. I recommend using a flat drag technique or if one chooses to do it vertical, do so with one pass.

[whiskeyify]

I thought I read somewhere to use silver solder? is there any advantage?

I do electronic repair and sometimes use it, have never done surface mount components.

[danieladamko]

it looks easy

[jkgamm041]

@danieladamko

It is, if your technique is refined. Your tip pressure and speed of travel has to be very light and consistent or you are guaranteed to cause thermal damage and lead deformation.

In using this technique I now make one pass only as I promote "one touch." One application of thermal energy (heat) in order to create the metallurgical bond.

[Envergure]

Why the vertical board orientation?

[jkgamm041]

@Envergure

It is just another way of many. I seldom use this technique anymore as I primarily do my drag soldering with the board flat. This technique is ultra effective for speed and extreme consistency of the solder fillets but you have to control your solder so you don't splash, hand / tip pressure and speed of travel.

I have a way to do it now with "one touch" that is more effective.

[LauxHawk]

Are you using lead solder or lead-free? 

[jkgamm041]

@LauxHawk

I am using a Kester No-clean Eutectic Sn63 Pb37 (Tin / lead).

[PTR2255]

WOW!!!

[dalchimsky]

you're an artist

[jkgamm041]

@dalchimsky

Thank you. I have worked with metals all my life.

[josshelito]

i would like sold like you, but im fraid for me to follow instruccions could be in spanish....so.....ill still sit watching.

If u could help me to tell me what r the instruments to use for soldering.... plz.....

[onemmatuk]

I use "EcoWave 45" soldering flux (warton-metals.co.uk/fluxes.ht­ml) to help soldering a SMT with 176 pins (0.5mm fine-pitch) but I found it very difficult as bridge is formed between pins. I can't do as what you did in your videos. Do you think "EcoWave 45" can be used for the soldering work as shown in your videos? If not, please kindly advise why and please recommend a suitable soldering flux. Thanks.

[jkgamm041]

Tip temperatures: Sn63/Pb37 (tin/lead) should be soldered between 550F - 600F.

Lead-free: SAC alloy (silver), Sn100C (nickel) & Sn100E (cobalt) should be soldered at 650F - 700F.

The use of pre-heat on the secondary side of approximately 150F (convective) will allow you to reduce your tip temp (conductive) by 50 - 100F and still achieve a good intermetallic bond. [ Only enough conductive heat to achieve the bond. Get in and get out so you don't thermally stress the IC and damage it. ]

[jkgamm041]

550 - 600 F. Do not try this with lead free. It can be done in one pass if you put some solder on the tip (heat bridge), start out just above the top lead, immediately feed a little solder and lightly drag the hoof tip or single flat on top of the feet of the leads.

Light even pressure and consistent speed of travel are the key and it can be done in a "one touch" application. Make sure to use flux.

[viperspec]

It looks like when you solder the PQFP's, the board is @ an angle, to flat on a hot spot or other device. I've been taught that all SMD rework/install requires preheating due to Tg and CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion), is this not true? Also, you seem to go over the leads of these SMD's over and over again, will this not hurt the internal working of the chip? Once again, I am just trying to figure-out if what I was taught during 2M instructor course was too stringent!!!

[jkgamm041]

Excellent points. My skills have evolved very much since I made this demo. High reliability is promoted by using one pass on the drag soldering. I now strive for "one touch."

More thermal exposure (heat) can promote thermal shock and latent failure. One pass is most desirable.

You are absolutely correct about the use of preheat and CTE. Preheat (convective) reduces thermal stress and thermal shock and is the preferred method. It sounds like you were taught very well.

[viperspec]

Sometimes the military goes a little "above and beyond" industry standards, and I was just inquisitive. I still admire your skills, you have great control. Question, did you tack the ends with the iron first, or solder paste? I find solder paste much easier. Also, is that a mini wave tip, or a single sided chisel tip? I would like to get more information, as to become IPC qualified. I am currently in Germany, but want to pursue a career in this when I leave.

[SMAllen91]

I'm intending to replace the ssop format OpAmps on my soundcard. Unfortunately, my iron just broke, and I can't afford a temp controlled station.

Can you reccomend me something which heats to 550-600F (or any other suitable iron really), I can only seem to find irons which heat hotter, and an iron with swappable tips (to accomodate the hoof tip). Thank you.

Great video by the way. I never even knew such uniform soldering could be achieved.

[jkgamm041]

Economical and effective, the Weller WES51 analog. This Weller gives you 40-50 watts and will run you around $100. Tips are about $4.00 each and if you keep them tinned they will give you a good life.

[SMAllen91]

Thank you for the speedy reply. Unfortunately, these are much more expensive in the UK, but not to worry, I hope to lay my hands on an old weller magnastat station, which i hope will do the trick.

Earlier you mentioned you'd had the best results using a small or large tip; would you reccomend one or the other for very small components with few, small pins? (measurements for small are .062" x .62", and large, .125" x .62" i think). Thank you.

[hammerjr1985]

Thank you for your video. Could you tell me what kind of fluid you used before soldering? Maybe you told us in the video but I haven't any speaker on this computer.

[jkgamm041]

Buy a flux pen. Kester No Clean 959 with 4% solids or 951 with 2% solids. Best No clean flux on the market for a low solids.

[9kuuby9]

its called flux

[linuxgeek81]

You know your craftsmanship, my compliments.

[jkgamm041]

Thank you. My multi lead techniques for both vertical and flat have evolved substantially since this video.

I now use "one touch" techniques only for high reliability. One pass or transfer of thermal energy (heat) to create the metallurgical bond of the solder fillet.

Excessive heat promotes intermetallic formations which result in embrittled joints. Then you get stress fractures which affect reliability and result in latency (latent or premature failure.) The key is "thermal management."

[afxgrin]

How hot are you running that iron? It looks like it's at a rather high temperature. I have a 40W Weller with just a basic control knob marked 1-5. Any suggestions?

[jkgamm041]

It sounds like you are using a Weller WES51 analog. They have a WESD 51 which is digital and does not cost much more. I like to see my actual tip temp. Do not rely on accurate tip temps with an analog.

I use 550-600F and no more for 63/37 tin/lead and 650-700F for lead free. If I have a stubborn ground plane then I use a Zephyrtronics air Bath pre-heater at 150F.

[oc5nsli341nforce4]

I wish that I was as good as you and good work.

[DumblyBrilliant]

Fantastic! Beautiful and skilled work. Some more explanation would be good. I saw the flux go on. Then what looked like a tinning run followed by a solder run but I am not certain. It was great...More please.

[jackalope117]

Do you have any videos on Pb free surface mount?

[jkgamm041]

No, but I intend to do some very shortly using SAC alloy, SN100C (nickel) and SN100E (cobalt) on assorted surface mount.

[trig1dentity]

Wonderful! thanks for the reply. Great videos, kudos on that. What does a soldering specialist consist of?

[jkgamm041]

Good question. A specialist, in my opinion, has an extensive background.

I am also a specialist in transferring my skills to others. It is my way of sharing with this world and giving back to it. As I evolve in my art, so do those who I train.

This is the greatest lesson I can share with you. The art of "one touch" soldering. Minimal thermal shock for high reliability soldering. Excessive heat alters the intermetallics and promotes latent failure.

Master the art of "one touch."

[donnyab]

good soldering...glasshopper...when you solder the IC to the board you are free to go

[jkgamm041]

Yes sir. Thank you.

[trig1dentity]

how do you hold the component in place before the first solder, what tip are you using on the pencil and how many times and how do you clean the pencil. Is that flux you are putting with a needle?

[jkgamm041]

Component is tack soldered at four corners. Tip is an extended hoof by Pace. I clean the tip frequently.

I tin my tip frequently and wipe on a sponge with only distilled water on it or a golden brillo pad type tip cleaner. A wet sponge does thermally shock your tip. The flux is Kester 951 No Clean with 2% solids.

I seldom use vertical drag soldering anymore. I have evolved to "one touch" soldering for the highest reliability. See my newest video. One touch only on surface mount IC's !

[XIfist]

How do you solder CMD thats VERY sensetive for heat.

Sodlering a 8pin PIC and even just tapping the PIC it got a 50% of surviving got anny tips?

[jkgamm041]

I assume that you are talking about an 8 pin SOIC (Small Outline Integrated Circuit). I look at all IC's as very heat sensitive as excessive heat will corrupt your component and either result in DOA or latent failure.

You have two options. Use a hot air pencil with solder paste or use a very fast & consistent technique which allows you total control. Drag soldering. See my new video: Soldering (Basic to Advance)

I hope this helps you. My best to you.

[XIfist]

Cheers :) drag soldering dident rly work, but using a hot air pencil worked like a charm thx

[coolboarder44]

Thank you for posting such a great video! I was just about to ask what kind of tip you had and why you went over it twice, but I see you already have answered those questions! I've always wondering how these components were soldered by hand! Great video! Thanks!

[hpux735]

This is really cool!

What do you need to do to be sure that you don't scratch the board while dragging the iron tip?

[837530nine]

Are the bent tips also intended for this type of usage? It looks like you are using a somewhat large beveled conical tip. I have tried this technique and have created only a mass (mess!) of shorted pins, so have kept to painstakingly soldering each pin with a fine-tip. -Thanks!

[jkgamm041]

The tip is referred to as either a hoof tip or single sided flat. Stay away from the micro hoof or any micro tips. They do not provide sufficient thermal transfer. I find outstanding performance from a large hoof or single flat. It is a technique that requires the right tip, liquid flux and a good no clean solder. This can be done with tin/lead 63/37

at 550 - 600 f and lead free with SN 100C at 650 -700 f. It does require practice and developing your hand. My best to you.

[dkny968]

amazing technique do you happen to know anywhere in los angeles area where i can get some training on how to improve my soldering skill on fine electronics... eventhough you provide an amazing video i guess its just fear that prevents me from trying this on my own....

[jkgamm041]

OMNI Training in Ranchocucamonga, CA. The owner is a man named Ken Moore. He knows his business. Google OMNI and contact them. He has hand soldering courses.

If you were willing to travel, I would recommend EPTAC Corporation in Manchester, NH. they are the original IPC Master Certification Center and largest in the world. There training is the very best in the world.

[sumdude4]

Amazing how simple it is.. if you have the right flux.. what kind did you use and where can I get it?

[jkgamm041]

Kester 951 No Clean Liquid Flux with 2% solids. You can get it from Techni-Tool

[evilmachinist]

Sir, I have to thank you so much for posting this video, for just by watching it I was able to replace a 200 pin fine pitch package that I otherwise would have not even attempted! I used to think that work like that took extremely expensive and sophisticated equipment..

Again, Thank you!

[sevenboarder]

Just curious, where do you get most of your soldering supplies?

Cheers to Minnesota!

[jkgamm041]

Techni-Tool

[wbyung]

Is it necessary to have 600F tip temp for lead/tin soldering? When soldering standard through-hole components, I've been able to get the temperature as low as 375F and lead-frees at about 450F.

I use Hakko temperature controlled station.

[jkgamm041]

Excellent questions. The objective is to achieve a true metallurgical bond with the component lead, the pad and the solder fillet without excessive thermal transfer (heat) as we want to reduce the chances of "thermal shock" or "thermal damage." Can one achieve a thermally mature metallic bond at 375F with sn/pb 63/37 tin/lead and at 450F for lead-free SAC 305 or preferably SN 100C? I do not beleive so. I support 600F for tin/lead and 700F for lead free. Most stations are temperature controlled.

[wbyung]

How would you comment on the Kester 951 no clean flux pen? I'm concerned that the dispenser you use could let you apply more flux than a pen. Do you think it is necessary to flood the pads with lots of flux to aid soldering?

[NipkowDisk]

Wish I could solder like that! Truly beautiful work.

[jkgamm041]

Come on over to the Dakota County Technical College, Rosemount, MN. I will train you in surface mount, through-hole, rework, lead free, hot air, component removal with low heat/low melt solder, principles of thermal profiling, fine pitch and a whole lot more. By the time I'm through training you, you will be able to perform with the most experienced rework technicians doing consistent fine and super fine pitch rework to the IPC Class 3 requirement. I'll turn you into a rework specialist.

[wagnerlip]

Amazing technique.

I would be very proud to do some soldering like that, or at least close to it.

Tell me a little bit more about the Technical College in Rosemount, and your offer for soldering and reworking training. Is that for real? ( I hope so ), and how one can make part of it. It is a paid course? how much and how long? If possible (time and money) I am thinking to travel to MN to acquire such experience.

Cheers,

Wagner (Orlando FL)

[jkgamm041]

I developed the soldering course for Dakota County Technical College in Rosemount, MN. "Hand Soldering for

Electronic Assemblies."

All of my training is done in strict accordance with the IPC and NASA standards.

Wires & Terminals, Through-Hole, Surface Mount, Rework, Lead Free, chip components, fine pitch and ultra fine pitch IC's.

I teach the art of "one touch" soldering and "thermal management" for high reliability.

Contact Larry Raddatz at DCTC Customized Training: 651-423-8276

[mnprg]

Thank you so much for putting up this video. I've recently been soldering SSOP using a slow time consuming technique and the bridges are a pain to remove - by contrast this technique looks a lot easier.

Just need to get myself some flux and a PCB holder that can be used vertically! I already have a temp controlled iron and a chisel/flat tip.

[jkgamm041]

I recommend No Clean solder, Sn63 Pb37, Low Solid Liquid No Clean flux. Use a "hoof tip", called a single flat. I caution you regarding the use of a chisel! The secret to vertical or horizontal drag soldering lies in the "hoof", its ability to transfer lots of thermal mass (heat)quickly. Tip temp of 600-625 for tin/lead. Lead free at 700 max. View my other demos and comments and you will get lots of valuable advice. Also, do not allow your tip to oxidize!! Always "tin" your tip.

[Darkbain]

Nice video, I would have failed your classes for sure. You make it look like art.

Out of curiosity, what's the availability on the DVDs?

thx again.

[jkgamm041]

I disagree. You would not have failed my classes. By the way I would teach you, you would

excel very rapidly.

The DVD has been postponed as I am in the process of developing a soldering technology program with the Dakota County Technical College in Rosemount, Minnesota, for surface mount and through-hole.

[Darkbain]

That's great I see they're in for some beautiful work.

Had you seen my solder work a week ago you'd laugh your head off. Seeing you go at it gives

confidence.

Thx again.

[xcoltxx]

Thanks!

Im going to solder my cell phones charger port back on myself instead of paying to have it fixed, this video really helped and gave me a slight understanding of what im doing.

[CodigoCerrado]

Hello there jkgamm041

I would like to ask you about that liquid,

Yeah, i was wondering what was it, is it a

special liquid you apply before soldering?

Thanks and keep it up with these videos.

[jkgamm041]

Thank you for the nice comment. I use two liquids during my rework. 1) Isopropol alcohol with Kimwipes and a cut down acid brush for clean up; and 2) Kester Low Solid Liquid Flux.

My comments below and in my other SMT demos should assist you further. My best to you!

[CDMCSD2]

I'm Just Wondering, why is it that there are no bridges created during the process? is it because of flux? Tip? do you use a special soldering wire?

[jkgamm041]

The key to successful drag soldering and bridge removal is:

Proper tip, tip temp of 600 degrees, low solid liquid flux, freshly tin and wipe your tip so it is nice and shinny and free of oxidation. You will immediately see the difference.

[rabethica]

What about solder mask? What is the solder mask expansion set to for the PCB? I've been hand soldering some fine pitch (19.685mil) and have to touch each pin. My solder mask expansion is set to 4mil. There is only 11.7 mil b/w my pads so the mask between just disappears in production. I probably should have set the expansion to 0 or 1mil long ago. Maybe my next board. Would there be anything wrong with minimizing my solder mask expansion?

[mamalala72]

Hello,

great video, and a really sweet method. I just soldered a TQFP-80 package that way. Sure, it was fine only on the second try, but i'm quite impressed how easy it is to learn.

Thanks a lot for this great help! One of the rare and usefull videos here.

Quick question: Is your tip completely flat, or is it slightly concave? I'm using a flat one, and i have the bottom two or three pins bridged. But that maybe my current lack of experience.

Greetings,

Chris

[jkgamm041]

Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. The tip is completely flat. Please view my other demo on

SMT fine pitch and you will see a close up of the flat hoof tip. Bridging is common on the last 2 or 3 leads. Flux and a tinned, freshly wiped tip are the key with finer pitch. Flux and remove bridges either vertically or horizontally (flat). They will clear easily. Tip temp of 600 is perfect.

[ironic4love]

Good job!

Do you have any solution for BGA soldering?

[jkgamm041]

Yes. Plenty of Tylenol! Many BGA counterfeit components, mainly from from China. Know who you are getting your components from!! Make sure your profiles are correct. With lead free, if you don't place your component center, when the thermal soak reaches maturity and your solder achieves its wet state, it will NOT orientate itself to the land centers as with a tin/lead component. Enormous info on Google regarding Ball grid Array. Thanks for the comment and my best to you.

[hoarp001]

Can you do this on PCBs that you would make yourself? The board looks properly printed. In my experience the solder often bridges over two contacts, even when doing through soldering. I have qutie a few boards to solder and im considering going SMT to save drilling time. Is this kind of soldering easy on home etched boards>?

[jkgamm041]

Unique question. I really do not know. I have never soldered on a home etched board. One way to find out. Get that iron out, tin that business end and go to town. Good luck on your journey.

[LostFlashlight]

i have a question when your using the hoof tip and you solder this your just running the tip up and down the contacts to get it hot and putting your solder on top or the rounded side of the tip and it flows down? am i correct or is there something different your doing?

Much thanks :) i thought about giving up on soldering because i didnt know how to do these.

also when you solder these kinds of chips can you take them off and reprogram them and put them back on? or is it only a one use thing?

[jkgamm041]

Excellent questions. The hoof tip pulls the bead of wet solder gently over the leads. With a little practice, you will be amazed at how easy this really is. Never give up, you are capable of more than you know! Yes, they can be removed (desoldered). I remove SMT SOIC's regularly and reflash/ reprogram them in a chip burner, flash memory, EPROM's, etc.. Watch out for ESD!!

[kacipburit]

perfect!

[robotTV]

Thank you, I learned a lot. A question for you: do you have any technique or demonstration how to solder 8-lead DFN (2mm x 2mm) package? Is buying hot air the only option for me?

Thank you,

[bantri256]

Simply awesome and amazing skill.

I believed that only precision machinery was able to do this, until i saw this video.

Congratulations

[jkgamm041]

Thank you for your kind compliment. I have developed a method of instruction which will allow anyone to achieve the same results, fast. I train technicians to develope "The Touch." The touch is the ability to make your hands do exactly as your eyes tell them to do.

One result is "controlled confidence."

My techniques and training methods are not taught in any technical college or IPC Training & certification facility. Anyone is capable of doing this.

[jkgamm041]

@bantri256

Thank you. My new demo reveals multi lead hand soldering techniques which are faster, safer, produce similar results and is consistent with best manufacturing practices.

My techniques now focus on "one touch" techniques for the highest reliability.

[damirault1337]

We have that very same IPC poster hanging on the wall at school, and it was expensive as hell! (well, so is all the rest of the IPC stuff haha) Thanks for the vid.

[MiCoRuLeZz]

Man, I need to admit it, you are the best, I've soldered for ages but I never seen or tried this vertical tecnique, looks really useful for SMTs

What type of solderer is that ? I've a standard JBC station.

And for last, I'm thinking of buyng a normal soldered ( used by electrician ) from the hardware store and use it for that vertical work.. can it work well for this work ? and, whats the tempertature that you use ?

best regards.

[jkgamm041]

Thank you for your comment. The solder is Kester rosin core 63/37 tin/lead. You can use the vertical technique with lead free up to a QFP 100. Don't try it with a 0.20mm fine pitch QFP or 0.80mm LQFP because it will only bridge. If you are going to do vertical or horizontal on surface mount I.C.'s, use at least an analog Weller with a hoof tip. See my other demo on fine pitch I.C. Tip temp for tin/lead at 600-650, lead free at 750-800.

[eissug]

Your comment about .20mm QFP and .80mm LQFP only applies to lead free, right?

I am working with a 64 VQFP which has a .50mm pitch. I've been having trouble with a 60/40 .032" solder using standard pencil tips. I end up having to use wick on the last few pins. I am going to buy some finer solder and some of the flux you mention.

Do you happen to have the Weller part number of the hoof tip handy?

Thanks for the videos!

[jkgamm041]

Correct. Attempting to vertical drag solder a fine pitch component (SMD)with lead free solder does not work well.

The Weller tip you seek is a hoof but Weller identifies it in their catalog as a single flat. I recommend Kester Low solid Liquid Flux

and for tin/lead solder, 63/37 between .015 to .025 diameter. I'm sorry, I don't have the Weller part number for the tip. Check out a local electronics supply company as they will probably let you demo one.

[bits010101]

This is one of those things I never would have believed was done by hand if not for this video. Like a true craftsman, it shows clear skill and applied knowledge.

As soon as I saw your work setup, I thought, "this guy is serious about soldering" and I was not proven wrong.

Great job!

Although this knowledge is not applicable for me at this time, it gives me great insight into what I may be capable of in future projects.

Thank you for sharing.

[jkgamm041]

With the information that I share in my three demo's on professional SMT Soldering and the advice I post in the comments, all information is provided so that most people with a basic to intermediate SMT skill level can apply these techniques effectively. Anyone can do this. Thank you for your encouraging comment.

John Gammell

Certified IPC Trainer

[bits010101]

Thanks for replying, I am curious to know what is the solution you apply right before you begin to solder. And is that a required step for this technique to work?

[jkgamm041]

The solution is Kester Low Solid Liquid Flux. No, it is not a required step for this to work on most leads but I would recommend it for individuals not experienced with vertical drag soldering and for doing finer pitch components. I can solder fine without it because I know the behavior characteristics.

[kopaganda13]

Wow. I'm new to electronics, and my experience in soldering is very limited. That was excellent soldering work, and very accurate. I would not be able to tell the difference between the ones soldered by a professional like you or a robotic arm.

[jkgamm041]

Thank you very much for your nice comment. One of my objectives in providing soldering demo's is to reveal to all viewers that my techniques are easy to use. They promote Class 3 consistency and are guaranteed to increase your productivity in the manufacturing industry. These are "user friendly" techniques that are very easy to adapt to. Once you master these techniques, the results will appear to be automated, by machine. I have been accused of this many times on my rework.

[rovku]

Wow! Probably the best soldering I've seen (both technique and result) to this day.

[jkgamm041]

Thank you for the very nice comment. That is very nice of you. Anyone can do these techniques and achieve these results. With the right tip, temp, techinque and a little practice, you will ace this. Remember, adjust your travel speeds and feed with fresh solder as your rosin core flux and lead tend to burn off faster than the tin. The flux and lead are responsible for your flowability. You MUST continuously replenish these two elements or you will frequently bridge. Good luck!!

[nanobrad]

Great videos. Is the quality of your work possible with the standard chisel tip or do you need the hoof tip with the small cup on the underside to properly hold the solder?

Also, where are you feeding in the solder? Is it to the side of the iron or to the pin of part? I can't quite see from the angle you're filming at.

[jkgamm041]

I believe it to be impossible to do with any size chisel tip. The hoof tip with "the cup" is a "miniwave" tip. The best class 3 results are achieved for me by a small or large hoof tip. I feed the solder on the side of the tip. It will immediately flow to the hoof. Practice by "floating" a cold tip on a SMD, on a scrap board. Get the "feel", "float" the tip at different travel speeds. Continued ....

[jkgamm041]

Slower on the finer pitch. Develop "the touch". Loosen up, relax and go. The last pin tends to "bridge", reduce your speed or reflow to pull the bridge. Remember, solder in its "wet" state, in a vertical position, will always flow to its center of gravity, downward, it works with you. You MUST control the size of your bead or you will "splash" all

over other components!!! My best to you!

[javapda]

Excellent video John!

Timing couldn't have been better. I just received some sample IC's in the mail. I was expecting non-SMT, but received all SMT.

I'll send email to follow up.

Again, EXCELLENT video!

[cart0181]

Wow, great stuff. I would already be enrolled in your class if I lived closer to Monticello. I'd be interested in purchasing an instructional DVD. I don't own a web cam, but I wonder how useful it would be to do the one-on-one web cam training since this is such detailed work.

Is it even possible for me to do this kind of work with my Weller WES51?

[jkgamm041]

If I feel there would be a reasonable demand for a very high quality instructional DVD using my techniques, I would create one. I believe a person would make substantial progress with the DVD. I started with Weller, they work fine. You can do anything in my demo's with a Weller, the correct tips and techniques.

[twitzelbos]

Thank you for this nice video !

Regarding the Weller, what kind of tip would you use ? The Hoof Tip seems to be rather rare and available mainly in the high-end market.

[jkgamm041]

My first demo (Professional SMT Soldering)was

done completely with a Microsoft VX 6000 Lifecam(webcam). You can get 3-4 megapixel webcams that will blow your mind, once you dial them in properly and set correct lighting to minimize glare. I can assure you, beyond any doubt, that I could provide interactive instuction via webcam, with clarity that would shock anyone. This would rapidly accelerate the development of a students skill level. I

thank you for sharing your comment. My best to you!