Added: 11 months ago
From: SpiritandtruthBlad
Views: 14,367
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (36)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • I know that the Hasselblad 500cm take the standard size cable release but i've heard that not all cable releases work with Hasselblad. Is thais true? If so what should i be looking for when buying one for my 500cm?

    Brian

  • I must need to say thank to you as I just got my first hasselblad camera (500cm) but I reli cant figure out how can use it. With your detail description I sure I can work on it.

    Thanks!

  • thank you very much I recently got hooked on medium format after buying a yashica-mat, and decided to invest in a hasselblad 500elm. This video helped alot learning the basics. Thanks!

  • Great Camera  I have a 500C and a 500CM

  • any videos of using these cameras w/ a CFV digital back? If so, please post one

  • @alexisgc33 No, sorry, but I have a CFV digital back being sold on eBay right now. Just type in "Hasselblad CFV 16 megapixel" at eBay you should see it under the seller name Spiritandtruth. Go check it out.

  • This guy sounds annoyed the whole time

  • @800runna1 You know...when I played back the video and heard myself I thought I sounded bad too. Sounded as if I am a know it all or something but I certainly did not intend to so I apologize. I hope to make another one before too long and hopefully I'll sound a little nicer the next time so thanks for chiming in and calling me out.

  • @SpiritandtruthBlad Ha, I was just joking, very informative video. Looking to get one of these.

  • @SpiritandtruthBlad

    Hi! Very good vid ! Don`t worry ! It`s natural reaction on Hasselblad : Every time I see Hassy I also get very irritated because it has unnatural 6 / 6 square format , unreasonably expensive and capriciously flimsy. Please , make vid on Mamiya 67RZ and You feel very good and satisfied. Cheers

  • Looking at this just reminds me how much digital has spoiled me.

  • Comment removed

  • Thank you for the great video. I have some questions.

    You didn't explain what those orange marks that moved underneath the shutter speed and aperture when you altered them.

    Aside from what you mentioned (The shutter flaps and film crank), what are some common faults with these cameras to test before purchasing?

  • @shiridenovo The orange numbers are EV values. You see these on light meters & they are used with most of the Hass meter prisms. The meter prism will give you an EV value & then you can put the arrow on the lens on the EV value the meter gave you & then the EV value will give you your aperture/speed combinations for that reading. Common faults are lens speeds.Always put the lens on 1 second & fire it. The speed should be good & constant. If it starts/stops or pauses the speeds need CLA.

  • @shiridenovo Also, check lens glass by shining a flashlight through the glass & see what you see. Most NEVER do this. The only problems I ever see with a Hass are: bad lens speeds, rear doors stay open when they should close, or the magazine counter does not stop at "1." These aren't "common" but happen more than anything else. Anything else would be a very rare instance. They are very durable cameras & mostly the only problems are what I mentioned unless the camera has been abused or dropped.

  • @shiridenovo To clarify, you have to set the lens at f/2.8 with the shutter & aperture blades completely OPEN to check the glass on the lens. Small cleaning marks are common & affect nothing except the "value" of the lens. Look closely for fungus ( looks like spider webs ) especially towards the edges. I have people sell me glass all the time & they say it's perfect but so often there are problems when I shine the light through the glass. It happens way more often than I care to experience.

  • Sorry for the stupid question, but I was told that you need to rotate the film manually after taking the shot, as Hassel doesn't do it automatically. I've just sent a film to a friend to get it developed. And I'm already upset...

  • @Rinraen Hello, you have to press the shutter release button & then rotate the "BIG" crank on the side of the body to advance the film. U do NOT have to rotate the little crank each time on the magazine. U only use that little crank on the side of the mag to get the film started when you load it & then to crank the film to the end of the roll when ur done shooting. U had to of cranked the camera each time after you took a shot or else it will not let you shoot again so you should be fine.

  • @SpiritandtruthBlad thanks a lot, problem solved ) I appreciate it )

  • Thank you. You solved some puzzles for me.. !

  • haha reminds me of my instructor in basic training teaching us how to operate the m16.

  • When you reach the end of the roll, do you need to just keep on winding the spool?

  • Thanks for this. I viewed this a couple of times before I got my 500C/M and it benefitted me greatly when I finally bought one. I could immediately handle the camera fairly well even given a slightly different finder and a CF lens. Good stuff!

  • Oops, pressed enter on accident....anyways. That lever attached to the shutter release is very important if you want to use the self timer, which I always do. If you don't turn that lever to "T" you won't expose your film. That lever locks the secondary shutter up during the timer so when you release the shutter button, the doors don't close on you.

  • You didn't elaborate on that lever attached

  • i am having a lot of problems with my shutters. i have to press the lever below the crank in order to get my shutters to work - is that normal?

  • @shellsx2211218 The lever beneath the crank is the mirror lock up button. You should never have to use it to make your camera work properly. That function is rarely used. The proper procedure for a Hasselblad body is this. Then the camera is cranked to the read position then the shutter doors should be completely closed. When you fire the camera they should open and close immediately ( if no lens is on the body ). Then you crank the camera to ready again & do it all over again.

  • @shellsx2211218 If you fire the camera and the rear doors stay open or halfway open then you most likely have a main spring problem & it needs repair. When they are damaged it's common for them to stay partially opened after firing the body. There is a WONDERFUL repair person who can fix it for you if you type in David Odess in a google search. Tell him "Ken" told you about him. He'll fix it as its supposed to & I think he's still giving a 6 month warranty on his repairs.

  • I just recently found My Grandfathers hassleblad 500c/m and a Mamiya RB67.

    where can i get film for these and where can i send them off to get developed?

  • do you have a website where i can see what hasselblads you have for sale?

  • @dwightlu Just go to Ebay and my name there is spiritandtruth. If you go to ebay.com you will see the search bar on the first page. Beside it there is a link that says, "advanced." Click it. Then the next page will come up and on the left hand side of the page click the link that says "by seller." Enter spiritandtruth where it says Enter seller's user ID and click the "search" button and it will take you to my listings. If you need any help I'm glad to help you even if you don't buy.

  • Very Handy. I just got one and couldn't work out how to change the aperture. THANKS.

  • @sollerboy Hey I'm glad it helped. Thanks for the comment! If you need any more help just let me know.

  • @SpiritandtruthBlad I've only put four rolls though this since I got it last month. The first was fine, there were quite a few artefacts on it though, that was with ILford Delta 400 film. The next two were fuji superia 400 and were perfect but had a bit of light leak on the left hand side on one or two images and the fourth was another ilford delta but it was quite cloudy. Is this something obvious or is it my fault??

  • @sollerboy I would say your light traps need to be replaced. As far as any debris on your film I would simply remove the insert from the magazine and get a can of air or use a compressor to blow out any debris from within the magazine. I have seen some magazines that were horribly dirty and all of this dirt and debris will get onto your film. I also spray windex on a paper towel and reach in and clean out the inside of the magazine then take a brush of some kind and wipe out all the dust.

  • @sollerboy Also, clean all over the insert and remove any debris from it with a brush of some sort. Back to your light leak. If you are seeing streaks on your film in any way you can know that 99% of the time the light traps need to be changed in your magazine. If you want to send your magazine to me I can replace them for you with factory traps for $40 but you have to pay shipping both ways. You can make homemade traps yourself it you want to try and do it. Email me for tips.

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more