I had way too much action on my mando as well, did some research, and contacted someone who told me a nickel should barely clear the strings on the number twelve fret, and they should barely clear the first, hope that helps someone out there with any questions about action.
Also, when you lay back and play softer, people listen to you more, because the mandolin sounds pretty instead of aggressive. And it can sound so pretty.
Hmm, you know, that's probably true about a lot of instruments. ;?)
I agree, zeppy. I also am positive that you don't lose the core volume of your instrument with low action. You just don't have the overtones like you do when it's very high. The way your top is carved is only going to produce so much volue, which is why a good instrumen is so valuable.
I use a thick Dawg pick, and I have the action set us reasonably low. I let the top do the work for me, I don't abuse my fingers and wrist by trudging through difficult action.
On one of my mandolins, I had excess string height on the bridge end of the neck, and found that the gap between the bridge-n-saddle was about the same as the width of the adjuster screws.....so I took the adjuster screws off the studs and WHALA!!
I used to like my action really high for a viscious chop. It was murder when trying to play fast though. Now, I don't see any reason to keep it so high. I haven't lost any volume in front of my mandolin by lowering the action.
I agree with Jethro Burns, Mike Marshall, Chris Thile, Matt Flinner, and many other great players who didn't/don't give a hoot about high action, because playabilty and great tone were more important.
Tough it out boys , I like a little higher than normal action for the chops , too low and you lose too much sound and the bitch starts to buzz out , it's more work but it's worht it .
Think of everything when you set up . balance between good action and great volume.
Don't forget minimal body contact with your mando when you are playing.
The backside accoustics are very important for volume projection , if you touch it with your body , you demp the sound.
For my bridge I use a small wrench that Weber provides. The Brekke traditional bridge is the only bridge I know of that can use this wrench. For typical bridges you have to loosen the strings a bit and physically turn the thumbwheels counter-clockwise to lower the bridge.
You should probably just take it to a music shop and have them set up the intonation. I don't really know anything about mandolin bridges, but since they have a traditonal wooden bridge it is probably better to leave it to an expert.
the bridge is not in the right spot. It needs to be moved in one direction or the other depending on if it is sharp or flat(towards or away from the nut)
Part 2) Amazing how much difference this has made. I can now concentrate on my technique again, rather than on my mandolin associated athleticism. I have a couple of videos of me playing on YouTube and hopefully have made a little progress since posting. Ralf
I was hesitant to lower my action for a long time, because I loved the huge chop I was getting. however, I learned to lighten up a bit and it's amazing how the mandolin will start to work for you, instead of against you. I also used J75s for a long time because they were so meaty sounding, but I settled for J74s in favor of playability. So, high action and J75s to low action and J74s is a huge difference.
Part 1) Thanks so much Keith. I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video of your own mandolin set-up. I have subsequently determined that the action on my own mandolin was too high. I also reckon that the EXP75's that I have been using might be a little too heavy for me. I have now lowered the action (G strings = 2mm and E strings = 1.5mm above the 12th fret).
Let that mando work for you. I tried for yars to force tone out my mandolin. The truth is, Jethro had it right. You don't need high action to get volume and tone. You just need to know how to attack it. Low action and a softer attack will result in good volume and probably better tone than high action and a hard attack.
I had way too much action on my mando as well, did some research, and contacted someone who told me a nickel should barely clear the strings on the number twelve fret, and they should barely clear the first, hope that helps someone out there with any questions about action.
8stringmonkey 2 months ago
I do not measue it either......just adjust the bridge as low as you can w/out fret buzz
inkey2 1 year ago
What make of mandolin is yours , brother ? I'm planning to buy one so any advice would be kind of you.
losing2woody 1 year ago
Thanks, and u look alot like David Cross
eggsalade 1 year ago
what's that black piece of plastic between the bridge and the string holder?
omoshiroidayo 1 year ago
Also, when you lay back and play softer, people listen to you more, because the mandolin sounds pretty instead of aggressive. And it can sound so pretty.
Hmm, you know, that's probably true about a lot of instruments. ;?)
zeppy13131 2 years ago
I agree, zeppy. I also am positive that you don't lose the core volume of your instrument with low action. You just don't have the overtones like you do when it's very high. The way your top is carved is only going to produce so much volue, which is why a good instrumen is so valuable.
I use a thick Dawg pick, and I have the action set us reasonably low. I let the top do the work for me, I don't abuse my fingers and wrist by trudging through difficult action.
ktbriggs 2 years ago
On one of my mandolins, I had excess string height on the bridge end of the neck, and found that the gap between the bridge-n-saddle was about the same as the width of the adjuster screws.....so I took the adjuster screws off the studs and WHALA!!
nutmegger1957 2 years ago
Thanks for the reply.
I used to like my action really high for a viscious chop. It was murder when trying to play fast though. Now, I don't see any reason to keep it so high. I haven't lost any volume in front of my mandolin by lowering the action.
I agree with Jethro Burns, Mike Marshall, Chris Thile, Matt Flinner, and many other great players who didn't/don't give a hoot about high action, because playabilty and great tone were more important.
ktbriggs 3 years ago
Tough it out boys , I like a little higher than normal action for the chops , too low and you lose too much sound and the bitch starts to buzz out , it's more work but it's worht it .
Think of everything when you set up . balance between good action and great volume.
Don't forget minimal body contact with your mando when you are playing.
The backside accoustics are very important for volume projection , if you touch it with your body , you demp the sound.
I use a tone guard to help that .
michelwantia 3 years ago
It's easy to see you're an awesome mandolin player.
BaronK69 3 years ago 4
how do you actually lower the bridge? what tools etc do you use?
mole81 3 years ago
For my bridge I use a small wrench that Weber provides. The Brekke traditional bridge is the only bridge I know of that can use this wrench. For typical bridges you have to loosen the strings a bit and physically turn the thumbwheels counter-clockwise to lower the bridge.
ktbriggs 3 years ago
Cool video about action. I can't seem to get my 12 fret in tune with the opened note. How does one set up their mandolin to do this?
TheNBT123 3 years ago
You should probably just take it to a music shop and have them set up the intonation. I don't really know anything about mandolin bridges, but since they have a traditonal wooden bridge it is probably better to leave it to an expert.
MichaelBradus 3 years ago
the bridge is not in the right spot. It needs to be moved in one direction or the other depending on if it is sharp or flat(towards or away from the nut)
chirfu 3 years ago
Part 2) Amazing how much difference this has made. I can now concentrate on my technique again, rather than on my mandolin associated athleticism. I have a couple of videos of me playing on YouTube and hopefully have made a little progress since posting. Ralf
8strings 4 years ago
Cool, Ralf.
I was hesitant to lower my action for a long time, because I loved the huge chop I was getting. however, I learned to lighten up a bit and it's amazing how the mandolin will start to work for you, instead of against you. I also used J75s for a long time because they were so meaty sounding, but I settled for J74s in favor of playability. So, high action and J75s to low action and J74s is a huge difference.
ktbriggs 4 years ago
Part 1) Thanks so much Keith. I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video of your own mandolin set-up. I have subsequently determined that the action on my own mandolin was too high. I also reckon that the EXP75's that I have been using might be a little too heavy for me. I have now lowered the action (G strings = 2mm and E strings = 1.5mm above the 12th fret).
8strings 4 years ago
Let that mando work for you. I tried for yars to force tone out my mandolin. The truth is, Jethro had it right. You don't need high action to get volume and tone. You just need to know how to attack it. Low action and a softer attack will result in good volume and probably better tone than high action and a hard attack.
ktbriggs 4 years ago