great video!!! I would highly recommend this video to anyone who needs ball joints on the expedition or explorer. Thank you for posting. Keep up the excellent work.
You know I had a hard time installing my lower joints. I didn't have a press so I just heated the frame with a blow torch and tapped it with a hammer with no problems.
"You made a great video." "What did you say?" "You made a great video!" "You paid a grape video?!?" "Ear protection! For the love of God, use some ear protection!"
Awesome video! I have a question, i have a nice 1994 ford f150 and i need to take fenders & the front clip because its rusted right by the body mounts on both sides so is there any easier way to do it?
Thank you! I just finished my 03 Supercrew 4x4 upper and lower both sides. Would not have even attempted without this video. He is dead on and I completed with hand tools and a loaner ball joint kit from my parts store.
Wow... Great video brother ! I've had a 98 f150 4x4 5.4 for over 10 yes now and I've had to do most repairs . It's time to do the ball joints !!! 2 yrs over due
I have a question for roadragecustoms. I replaced my ball joint and control arm on my 1997 after watching this video. I could not have done without the video. Thank You. All went smooth but when I first backed out of our driveway I heard a 'pop'. The test drive went well and nothing appears to have broken or loosened. I assume ( I am hoping ) that the pop was just the axle settling in a little bit. Has anyone else had this pop?
Greetings, I have a 2000 f150 2 wheel drive and the 2 front tires squeak like hell. I noticed that the upper ball joints dont make a sound but the lower ball joints are the ones making all the noise. Can I replace just the lower ball joints or do I need to replace the entire control arm? Thanks for the help.
Wow, i can't believe the CV shaft actually slid out of the hub and bearing assembly. I had to do a lot of ball joints on those and most of the time just took the whole shaft out with the steering arm. We had to do bearings or shafts on a couple and couldn't get them apart. I put a couple of them in the press and put 30 tons of pressure on them and they still wouldn't budge, and they were never touched from the factory.
Very well done video. I have a '00 E-150 van with 200k miles that seems to need new ball joints all around. I'm on the fence as to whether I should tackle the job myself. This tutorial is helpful either way.
Another question, and I hope I don't sound TO ignorant, but is the the exact same procedure I would fallow on my 97 Expedition 4x4? Being I dont have $650 to pay I am going to try and rent the tools and do myself. Your video is very helpful, but wanted to know if its the same for my ride. Thanks for the help.
Well done video! I've done ball joints once on a 94 ranger RWD and it wasn't fun but I didn't have an impact. (I do now)
Now I have a 01 F150 2wd. Other then the spring and font axle is the replacement the same? I'll probably have to do the work myself becasue the labor is too expensive. Also, I keep hearing moog is the way to go. Any tips or links to another video would have great!
I'm curious - no springs? I was watching to learn how to handle upper and lower control arm bushings, but on my '00 F150 2WD, I know that I have to deal with the springs.
Thanks - not being a 4 wheel drive guy, I was unfamiliar with this type of suspension. Thanks for a great video, and for sending me to the wood shed to learn more.
@zenpebble1 To replace lower control arm bushings you will have to compress spring in order to remove control arm. A spring compressor is best, or you can use a floor jack under lower control arm to slowly release spring tension( a little bit dangerous.) either way spring must be removed.
7_29_2011: Excellent Video !!! Thank you. Replaced the upper control arms and lower ball joints on a 1998 F-150 4x4. The video was very helpful. Two recommendations to everyone replacing the lower ball joints. 1) Don't use a hammer to beat it out. !! Go to AutoZone and get the Loaner Ball Joint Remover and Installer. It works great. 2) Don't use a Ball Joint Fork. Use the Ball Joint Remover and Installer Loaner Tool.
Eccentric for easy adjustment but, will a real alignment tech be able to get caster and camber back to specs if not out too far without these washers? I notice there is slots in my bracket to frame where upper control arm is.Im wondering if this is made for adjustment? 00' F-150 2WD Ext Cab
@kas0016 Able to? Yes. Willing to? Not likely. The eccentrics make it so that you loosen the nut and rotate the bolt to make the adjustment. Without them you would have to loosen the bolt and slide the control arm in and out. It isn't as easy as it sounds. A good alignment tech would rather sell you the eccentrics & charge you to install them. That is how they get paid.
@kas0016 You need to have them, at least, in the right general area. It is ideal, but not always practical to have the vehicle on the ground when you tighten them. You don't want to have the control arms 90 degrees from where they belong at ride height when you tighten them.
@hoehoerendous It was over a year ago. I really don't remember. Probably 3 hours or more for right & left upper & lower. Keep in mind it takes longer to do when I'm trying to make a video.
Thank you for this video, I'm amazed what a smooth operator you are, you're a real pro! My under the tree mechanic charges $350 and said he'd spend an entire day on it.
Excellent video. My son's 05 4x2 had a noisy upper, we looked at your video and decided we'd attempt it ourselves. Ordered Moog upper control arm online and bought us a pickle fork locally and gave it a whirl. The only problem we had was his truck has the spring around the shock and we had to drop the spring/shock to get the upper bolts out. Other than that, it was less than an hour job. Your video gave us the confidence to do it ourselves and save a ton. Thank you very much!
@hoehoerendous You need a ball joint press and basic mechanic's tools. The press is typically available from Advance, Auto Zone, and maybe others for a deposit. You get your money back when you return it. I bought mine from Matco Tools. You can also buy them from Mac, Snap-on, Cornwell, OTC, etc. The parts are available from dealership parts departments, and auto parts stores.
Thanks alot for posting this well executed video. I just came from the dealer after an oil change and they told me 785.00 for both lower ball joints. What a crock! Also some real b.s. from Ford OEM not using zerks on a major wear item! Do you recommend the upper control arms as a rule or does it just make sense since it's already torn down? Thanks again!!!
@MrReyonek They ARE closely related. They share the same last name. Tuning Fork & Pickle Fork must be cousins. Side note: don't use an automotive pickle fork on pickles. They will taste funny.
Hey there! Changed out the lower ball joints on my F150 today. I just wanted to say your video was big help. Thanks for the step by step instruction. One question: I ripped the boots on my upper ball joints when I hammered them with the pickle fork. What can I use to repair them? RTV? Rubber cement?
@castercamber They really aren't repairable. That is why I don't use a pickle fork when I'm not replacing the part. Sometimes boots are available without buying the whole ball joint or tie rod. Check with energy suspension or other aftermarket performance steering & suspension parts manufacturer.
@noahttt47s The upper arm isn't supposed to have replaceable ball joints. Ford doesn't (or didn't at the time) offer replacement ball joints without the whole control arm. The aftermarket upper ball joints that are available for that vehicle only fit aftermarket control arms.
Are their any torque setting we need to know about? Im looking at doing this next month, great video! Can you get by without a pickle fork or should i invest in one?
@Rayzer2368 Every oil change, right. If you are paying someone to change your oil, make sure they know you want the 'lube' part of the oil, lube, & filter. Some oil change guys don't care.
I just changed my driver side lower ball joint on my Mountaineer without removing the tie rod or the ABS connection.
The press tool did not have the right size receiving piece for the top so I used the beams from my jack stands and the topmost press piece to get it done.
I just changed my driver side lower ball joint on my Mountaineer without removing the tie rod or the ABS connection.
The press tool did not have the right size receiving piece for the top so I used the beams from my jack stands and the topmost press piece to get it done.
@dangerdakota i live in northern ontario canada. there was no rust on that ford. but believe me, I rust proof vehicles and ten year old trucks up here are absolutely rotten it's crazy, really. Good video. straight to the point.
I've got a 2001 F-150. I only need to replace the lower ball joints. Will I be able to do this without removing the entire steering knuckle? Also, what size pickle fork will I need to separate the lower ball joints?
I only need to replace the lower ball joints. Can I get away with not completely removing the steering knuckle? Also, on my 2001 F-150, what size pickle fork do I need to separate the lower ball joint? Thanks man. Great video.
@jonnyc1003 IDK if it is possible to only disconnect the lower ball joint & still have enough room with the knuckle in the way. I think the upper arm & axle (4x4) may prevent the knuckle from dropping low enough to fully disengage the ball joint. I couldn't tell you what "sizes" of pickle forks I own. I think I used my big one. To disconnect the knuckle from the ball joint without a pickle fork, remove nut & smack the knuckle with a hammer near the ball joint & that will usually loosen it up.
Thanks for the video. I started working on this today. My problem was trying to put the nut back on the bottom of the upper ball joint. The ball joint keeps rotating so I can't tighten it all the way. I tried using a lever to push the control arm down all the way but the nut still isn't catching?...any help would be great
@tydurden101 Usually pushing the control arm towards the knuckle will cause enough friction between the ball joint & the knuckle to tighten the nut. If the stud of the ball joint is sticking through the nut, grab it with vice grips & tighten the nut with a wrench. If not, get a non-locking nut the same diameter & thread pitch as the ball joint nut. Temporarily install it on the ball joint until the joint seats firmly in the knuckle. Then remove it & install the nut that came with the ball joint.
@tat2jim21 If the ball joint has failed & isn't available without the control arm, replace the control arm. If the control arm bushings are bad & the ball joint is bad, compare the price of the parts to the price of the whole arm. If the control arm is bent or broken, replace it.
@tat2jim21 It depends. Some vehicles come from the factory with ball joints integrated into the control arm as one complete assembly. There is no way to remove and replace the ball joint unless you replace the control arm with it. On some vehicles, the ball joint is integrated in the lower cntrl arm, some in the upper cntrl arm, some require both, some bolt in and some are pressed in.
@roadragecustoms I'm not 100% sure the ball joints are the issue with me truck. So let me ask you this; I have a 1998 F-150 XLT and front driver's side is making a squeaking noise. It happens when I hit bumps and I can replicate it by rocking the truck. I would say it was ball joints without a doubt, but the truck only has 39,750 miles. Even under rare circumstances would you think the stock sealed ball joints would go out before 40,000 miles? Is there anything else it could be? Thanks!
@powerman2442 I do Ford Super Duty trucks fairly often with under 20,000 miles since the last ball joint replacement. The 4x4 shop I work at now sells rebuildable extra heavy duty ball joints (BIG BUCKS) for them that last much longer under extreme conditions.
You can pick up a mechanic's stethoscope at a part's store & listen to each part while someone else rocks the truck. The loudest part is usually the culprit. It could be tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, shocks, etc.
@roadragecustoms Pretty sure the noise isn't the ball joints since I checked them out and they look perfect. My dad thinks it is a dried out rubber "grommet", or whatever you'd call it. The truck is a 1998 and only has 39,975 miles on it as of today. I know it sat in a garage and wasn't driven much because it is in perfect condition. He says it is probably dried out from not being used often along with all the salt on the roads in Ohio. Every see anything like this happen?
@powerman2442 If the noise can be duplicated with the truck sitting still & only turning the steering wheel, the problem is most likely the ball joints or tie rod ends. If the truck has to be bounced up & down, then it could be ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings, etc. Try a stethoscope. You'll be able to hear where the problem is coming from.
@roadragecustoms I haven't tried the stethoscope because it is to damn cold here in Ohio and our garage isn't heated. I'm not extremely worried about it, but I can tell you this. The noise can be hear when I am driving and hitting bumps. It can be heard when your rock the truck. And it can be heard when sitting in park and turning the wheel. Thanks for all your info by the way.
Nice vid, i was drivin my dads truck n the left lower ball joint broke, ima take it so my suspension class but should i do an alignment on it after i replace all the ball joints?
Do you have a video for replacing the oil seal on a F150 4x4 on the passenger side for the 4 wheel drive in great detail, where the cv joint meets the axle.
@txrankin5 There isn't a good way to do this without a ball joint press. Some parts stores (Advance & Autozone-maybe others) offer loaner tools. This is where you give a deposit, usually the value of the tool, use the tool, and return it for a full refund when complete.
@web4cash2 It was over a year ago. I really don't remember. Probably 3 hours or more for right & left upper & lower. Keep in mind it takes longer to do when I'm trying to make a video.
Thanks for posting this video. I have a ranger and I know it has 4 ball joints. 2 upper and 2 lower. I want to rebuild the front end n was figuring that it might be similar to thing.
@tat2jim21 The truck in the video has torsion bars instead of springs. Either way, the shock prevents the torsion bar or spring from unloading and holds the lower control arm steady.
@ezkeyboardkid58 Is it a squeak over bumps, or when turning? Possible problem with tie rod, strut, or ball joint causing noise. Stiff steering may be power steering related. Have you checked your fluid level? Does the pump make noise when you steer?
@roadragecustoms yeah it queaks when i go over bumpss but only on the drivers side and the power steeringpmp makes lik a mild grinding noise the fluid level is fine
Roadragecustoms, I have a 1997 F-150 Club Cab, I took the truck in for it's 145k mile check up and was told that the inside of the drivers side front tire was being worn away (every time I would hit the gas or the break the tire would start to 'bump') I was told it was due to the ball bearings and tie rod needing to be replaced. I worked on my own breaks before, but watching the video, I see this is very different than working on the breaks. How difficult would this be for a 1st timer>
@JRF1961 Watch my trailer bearing repack video to get a rough Idea of how to replace & / or repack your bearings. I also have vids on inner & outer tie rods. Let me know if you need any specific info.
@Nightwing690 They can make either sound. This one was making a horrible squeaking sound that you can hear in the beginning of the video while I was driving & turning the wheel.
Man, I'll tell you what! This guys videos are great. You can tell he has been bustin wrenches for a while and thanks to him for shareing he knowledge.
HI. good video. I have a question. I have a 93 Ford T bird. I hear a CLICK click when ever I hit a bump or a dip in the road. Would that be a ball joint up front. HOw does one test a lower ball joint?
@Romulan112 That could be anything on the front end. To check your ball joints, lift the tire off the ground by the lower control arm. Shake the tire up & down & check for play in the lower ball joint. Also check all of your suspension parts for busted rubber boots or play / slop when you shake the tire side-to-side or up & down. Check your control arm bushings & sway bar link bushings for cracks. I hope this helps.
@88quadzilla88 You should be able to do that with basic hand tools and a pickle fork (suspension type - not kitchen type) in about an hour. You'll still need an alignment afterward.
Thank you for the great Vid. So nice. I was wondering what brand did you use for all the replacement parts. Are they Moog? I need to do this next week. Should I replace anything else while I am under there? I just replaced the shocks and Sway bar links. Thank you. Adam
@toothman340 The lower ball joints were Moog PN K8695T. The adjuster cams were Moog PN K8740. The upper arms were Dorman PNs 520-215 & 520-216. Replace anything that's bad. I don't like to replace parts I don't have to.
great video!!! I would highly recommend this video to anyone who needs ball joints on the expedition or explorer. Thank you for posting. Keep up the excellent work.
TheJackhammer81 1 week ago
This guy put the wrong BALL JOINT In lol fail but good video
zaymoney121 3 weeks ago
Thinks man how much was all this and what would be a good website to find it .great vid
Proudhavard 4 weeks ago
and now you can remove the baljoint BANG BANG BANG you haw don this befor caus you ar not so carfull!!!!!
m5871 1 month ago
GREAT video
svg571 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I want this video on my 7900 Prism unit.
percygoff614 1 month ago
Thanks man, your process really helps
ynottoni82 2 months ago
This video is a favorite on Indonesia
eweykidd13d 2 months ago
thank you for the video , you did a great job man. Now a can fix my truck thanks to you!
sinaloa4321 2 months ago
COULD CLEARLY UNDERSTAND THE BALLJOINTS AND ITS IMPORTANT. GOOD EXPLANATION. ERODE PARAMU, INDIA
avis0113 2 months ago
You know I had a hard time installing my lower joints. I didn't have a press so I just heated the frame with a blow torch and tapped it with a hammer with no problems.
danielh35 2 months ago
"You made a great video." "What did you say?" "You made a great video!" "You paid a grape video?!?" "Ear protection! For the love of God, use some ear protection!"
unclematt3 3 months ago
Awesome video! I have a question, i have a nice 1994 ford f150 and i need to take fenders & the front clip because its rusted right by the body mounts on both sides so is there any easier way to do it?
jackiebooda 3 months ago
This is the way how to make a tuturial.... thanks.
1981shooter1981 3 months ago
Thank you! I just finished my 03 Supercrew 4x4 upper and lower both sides. Would not have even attempted without this video. He is dead on and I completed with hand tools and a loaner ball joint kit from my parts store.
Thank you again...
kynicholson 3 months ago
Wow... Great video brother ! I've had a 98 f150 4x4 5.4 for over 10 yes now and I've had to do most repairs . It's time to do the ball joints !!! 2 yrs over due
nightworld1971 3 months ago
What's all that red crud?
sweetlikeADAM 4 months ago
Great video....Will use it to replace on my 2003 p/u.
Jechiveste 4 months ago
I love how everything is solved with a hammer.
dumapies 4 months ago
I have a question for roadragecustoms. I replaced my ball joint and control arm on my 1997 after watching this video. I could not have done without the video. Thank You. All went smooth but when I first backed out of our driveway I heard a 'pop'. The test drive went well and nothing appears to have broken or loosened. I assume ( I am hoping ) that the pop was just the axle settling in a little bit. Has anyone else had this pop?
FalconMaster114 4 months ago
@FalconMaster114
experienced the same with mine. Sway bar link bushing was bad. Its the vertical bolt with bushings. $15 from advanced and problem solved
kynicholson 3 months ago
I've watched a few of your videos now, and with this one you sir have earned yourself a subscriber! Well done! Keep up the good work!
DMethod13 4 months ago
nice and easy! well done, the noise in 2:28 hurt my ears
Neflyte300zx 4 months ago
@projectkid u can replace just the lower but I would replace both
TheMrnova70 4 months ago
Great video
TheMrnova70 4 months ago
Greetings, I have a 2000 f150 2 wheel drive and the 2 front tires squeak like hell. I noticed that the upper ball joints dont make a sound but the lower ball joints are the ones making all the noise. Can I replace just the lower ball joints or do I need to replace the entire control arm? Thanks for the help.
projectkid310HxA 4 months ago
Good job! I learned a lot watching this!
driftx2 4 months ago
Great job. Thats a long time those ball joints lasted.
Gasser4x4 4 months ago
Very good information for amatuers who don't know what it require other than gas to run a vehicle...Thank you for your visual walk through...
Ijanee4806 4 months ago
What a great video. Thank you. I will have to watch all of your videos. Perfect video angles and closeness. Really do appreciate it.
adamflight1 4 months ago
Get your shit rubber co2 cleaned its 200 bucks i belive and another 100 for the rubber coating its worth it on the re-sell in the long run.
batallapj3 5 months ago
one of the best instructional videos i have seen. great job.
petrentz 6 months ago 2
Wow, i can't believe the CV shaft actually slid out of the hub and bearing assembly. I had to do a lot of ball joints on those and most of the time just took the whole shaft out with the steering arm. We had to do bearings or shafts on a couple and couldn't get them apart. I put a couple of them in the press and put 30 tons of pressure on them and they still wouldn't budge, and they were never touched from the factory.
jamesfust 6 months ago
must be that georgia clay lol
MrKyleg76 6 months ago
Very well done video. I have a '00 E-150 van with 200k miles that seems to need new ball joints all around. I'm on the fence as to whether I should tackle the job myself. This tutorial is helpful either way.
TheRiversDark 6 months ago
I'd gladly take any other tips or pointers you might have for my task as well, thanks again.
pongaulong83 6 months ago
Another question, and I hope I don't sound TO ignorant, but is the the exact same procedure I would fallow on my 97 Expedition 4x4? Being I dont have $650 to pay I am going to try and rent the tools and do myself. Your video is very helpful, but wanted to know if its the same for my ride. Thanks for the help.
pongaulong83 6 months ago
@pongaulong83 I think your Expedition should be very similar, if not identical.
roadragecustoms 6 months ago
Great Job!
thinkford 6 months ago
Hello Dave,
Well done video! I've done ball joints once on a 94 ranger RWD and it wasn't fun but I didn't have an impact. (I do now)
Now I have a 01 F150 2wd. Other then the spring and font axle is the replacement the same? I'll probably have to do the work myself becasue the labor is too expensive. Also, I keep hearing moog is the way to go. Any tips or links to another video would have great!
Thanks Jason.
MrJasonWorm 6 months ago
I'm curious - no springs? I was watching to learn how to handle upper and lower control arm bushings, but on my '00 F150 2WD, I know that I have to deal with the springs.
zenpebble1 7 months ago
@zenpebble1 The 4x4's had torsion bars instead of springs.
roadragecustoms 7 months ago
Thanks - not being a 4 wheel drive guy, I was unfamiliar with this type of suspension. Thanks for a great video, and for sending me to the wood shed to learn more.
zenpebble1 7 months ago
@zenpebble1 To replace lower control arm bushings you will have to compress spring in order to remove control arm. A spring compressor is best, or you can use a floor jack under lower control arm to slowly release spring tension( a little bit dangerous.) either way spring must be removed.
ktumbleweed 6 months ago
Thank you for taking the time to do such a thorough video, now I'm going to pull my Expedition up on the lawn and get r dun!!
123karismith 7 months ago
7_29_2011: Excellent Video !!! Thank you. Replaced the upper control arms and lower ball joints on a 1998 F-150 4x4. The video was very helpful. Two recommendations to everyone replacing the lower ball joints. 1) Don't use a hammer to beat it out. !! Go to AutoZone and get the Loaner Ball Joint Remover and Installer. It works great. 2) Don't use a Ball Joint Fork. Use the Ball Joint Remover and Installer Loaner Tool.
briantheissen 7 months ago
Eccentric for easy adjustment but, will a real alignment tech be able to get caster and camber back to specs if not out too far without these washers? I notice there is slots in my bracket to frame where upper control arm is.Im wondering if this is made for adjustment? 00' F-150 2WD Ext Cab
kas0016 7 months ago
@kas0016 Able to? Yes. Willing to? Not likely. The eccentrics make it so that you loosen the nut and rotate the bolt to make the adjustment. Without them you would have to loosen the bolt and slide the control arm in and out. It isn't as easy as it sounds. A good alignment tech would rather sell you the eccentrics & charge you to install them. That is how they get paid.
roadragecustoms 7 months ago
Excellent video, as always!
cov01crew 8 months ago
Arent you supposed to not tighten bolts for upper control arm until suspension is under load??
kas0016 8 months ago
@kas0016 You need to have them, at least, in the right general area. It is ideal, but not always practical to have the vehicle on the ground when you tighten them. You don't want to have the control arms 90 degrees from where they belong at ride height when you tighten them.
roadragecustoms 8 months ago
will i b in bad shape if I dont install new washers for control arm bolts?? Is it still adjustable..
kas0016 8 months ago
@kas0016 The eccentric washers are required for easy adjustment.
roadragecustoms 8 months ago
can i use the press to take out old lower ball joints.
kas0016 8 months ago
@kas0016 Yes, if you have the right adapters. This vid was made before I bought the Ford update kit.
roadragecustoms 8 months ago
How much time did it take you to do the whole thing?
hoehoerendous 8 months ago
@hoehoerendous It was over a year ago. I really don't remember. Probably 3 hours or more for right & left upper & lower. Keep in mind it takes longer to do when I'm trying to make a video.
roadragecustoms 8 months ago
Thank you for this video, I'm amazed what a smooth operator you are, you're a real pro! My under the tree mechanic charges $350 and said he'd spend an entire day on it.
dimitriosart 8 months ago
Excellent video. My son's 05 4x2 had a noisy upper, we looked at your video and decided we'd attempt it ourselves. Ordered Moog upper control arm online and bought us a pickle fork locally and gave it a whirl. The only problem we had was his truck has the spring around the shock and we had to drop the spring/shock to get the upper bolts out. Other than that, it was less than an hour job. Your video gave us the confidence to do it ourselves and save a ton. Thank you very much!
jeauxkewl 8 months ago in playlist Steering & Suspension
how much is the cost to replace this thankyou very much
josemiel69 8 months ago
@josemiel69 Depends on who does it & what kind of parts. $600.00 & up.
roadragecustoms 8 months ago
Good video brother! Well demonstrated.
cpepper5702 8 months ago
thats a ford for ya
TheChevy496 8 months ago
Thanks, the Ford dealer quoted me $1648.45 for replacing upper control arms and lower ball joints.
tfcdemo 8 months ago
I have the same problem with my 2005 Lariat. What tool kit should I get and where do you buy them/the ball joints and control arms from?
hoehoerendous 9 months ago
@hoehoerendous You need a ball joint press and basic mechanic's tools. The press is typically available from Advance, Auto Zone, and maybe others for a deposit. You get your money back when you return it. I bought mine from Matco Tools. You can also buy them from Mac, Snap-on, Cornwell, OTC, etc. The parts are available from dealership parts departments, and auto parts stores.
roadragecustoms 9 months ago
Thanks alot for posting this well executed video. I just came from the dealer after an oil change and they told me 785.00 for both lower ball joints. What a crock! Also some real b.s. from Ford OEM not using zerks on a major wear item! Do you recommend the upper control arms as a rule or does it just make sense since it's already torn down? Thanks again!!!
counterbiz 9 months ago
@counterbiz If you don't mind the possibility of having to tear it down again later, just do the lowers now & wait until the uppers are bad.
roadragecustoms 9 months ago
@MrReyonek They ARE closely related. They share the same last name. Tuning Fork & Pickle Fork must be cousins. Side note: don't use an automotive pickle fork on pickles. They will taste funny.
roadragecustoms 9 months ago
Man this one of plenty of reasons i love the USA for .
a tool for every job , brilliance and accuracy
edebawy 9 months ago
2:25 twang ,,, ... lol cracked me up
SuperNobama1 9 months ago
Hey there! Changed out the lower ball joints on my F150 today. I just wanted to say your video was big help. Thanks for the step by step instruction. One question: I ripped the boots on my upper ball joints when I hammered them with the pickle fork. What can I use to repair them? RTV? Rubber cement?
Thanks again for the helpful video.
castercamber 9 months ago
@castercamber They really aren't repairable. That is why I don't use a pickle fork when I'm not replacing the part. Sometimes boots are available without buying the whole ball joint or tie rod. Check with energy suspension or other aftermarket performance steering & suspension parts manufacturer.
roadragecustoms 9 months ago
Nice job, but i have a question why you change all piece the upper ball joint? why not replace only the ball joint?
noahttt47s 9 months ago
@noahttt47s The upper arm isn't supposed to have replaceable ball joints. Ford doesn't (or didn't at the time) offer replacement ball joints without the whole control arm. The aftermarket upper ball joints that are available for that vehicle only fit aftermarket control arms.
roadragecustoms 9 months ago
Great video. I wish I saw this before doing mine last month. Would have saved lots of time.
swanz199 9 months ago
Excellent. Clear and concise. This answered a few questions I had for that ball joint that's waiting on me to knock it out.
castercamber 10 months ago
Thanks RRC! keep up the great videos.
cowboy41090 10 months ago
Are their any torque setting we need to know about? Im looking at doing this next month, great video! Can you get by without a pickle fork or should i invest in one?
Thanks!
cowboy41090 10 months ago
@cowboy41090 Upper ball joint nut = 83-112 ft/lb
Upper control arm nuts = 83-112 ft/lb
Lower ball joint nut = 57-75 ft/lb
Axle nut = 188-254 ft/lb
Instead of a pickle fork, you can use a hammer & hit the steering knuckle on the side near the ball joint or tie rod to pop it loose.
roadragecustoms 10 months ago
@roadragecustoms Great video very informative and the camera angles were wonderful? How much does this procedure normally cost?
doodle2341 10 months ago
@doodle2341 $600.00 to $1000.00 with OE parts, slightly less for aftermarket.
roadragecustoms 10 months ago
nice
diejeffy 10 months ago
It seems like grease fittings are a thing of the past. Once you install grease fittings, what is a good greasing interval? Every oil change?
Rayzer2368 10 months ago
@Rayzer2368 Every oil change, right. If you are paying someone to change your oil, make sure they know you want the 'lube' part of the oil, lube, & filter. Some oil change guys don't care.
roadragecustoms 10 months ago
Great video. Its seems that newer Fords are not built to last..
noweirdbeard 11 months ago
great video bud
pshycoghp 11 months ago
Thx.
I just changed my driver side lower ball joint on my Mountaineer without removing the tie rod or the ABS connection.
The press tool did not have the right size receiving piece for the top so I used the beams from my jack stands and the topmost press piece to get it done.
ExploreTheWaycom 11 months ago
Thx.
I just changed my driver side lower ball joint on my Mountaineer without removing the tie rod or the ABS connection.
The press tool did not have the right size receiving piece for the top so I used the beams from my jack stands and the topmost press piece to get it done.
ExploreTheWaycom 11 months ago
Comment removed
ExploreTheWaycom 11 months ago
u make it look easy, specially with alll that rust
dangerdakota 11 months ago
@dangerdakota It was mostly mud.
roadragecustoms 11 months ago
@dangerdakota i live in northern ontario canada. there was no rust on that ford. but believe me, I rust proof vehicles and ten year old trucks up here are absolutely rotten it's crazy, really. Good video. straight to the point.
transworld20 11 months ago
I've got a 2001 F-150. I only need to replace the lower ball joints. Will I be able to do this without removing the entire steering knuckle? Also, what size pickle fork will I need to separate the lower ball joints?
Thanks man. Great video!
jonnyc1003 1 year ago
I only need to replace the lower ball joints. Can I get away with not completely removing the steering knuckle? Also, on my 2001 F-150, what size pickle fork do I need to separate the lower ball joint? Thanks man. Great video.
jonnyc1003 1 year ago
@jonnyc1003 IDK if it is possible to only disconnect the lower ball joint & still have enough room with the knuckle in the way. I think the upper arm & axle (4x4) may prevent the knuckle from dropping low enough to fully disengage the ball joint. I couldn't tell you what "sizes" of pickle forks I own. I think I used my big one. To disconnect the knuckle from the ball joint without a pickle fork, remove nut & smack the knuckle with a hammer near the ball joint & that will usually loosen it up.
roadragecustoms 11 months ago
very helpful, thanks a lot man
CoryASchultz 1 year ago
Good video, thanks!
air1dit 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms thank you. you have no idea how appreciative I am and how much time and energy you saved me.
tydurden101 1 year ago
Thanks for making and posting a very informative video. I greatly appreciate it.
opsvideo2008 1 year ago
Thanks for the video. I started working on this today. My problem was trying to put the nut back on the bottom of the upper ball joint. The ball joint keeps rotating so I can't tighten it all the way. I tried using a lever to push the control arm down all the way but the nut still isn't catching?...any help would be great
tydurden101 1 year ago
@tydurden101 Usually pushing the control arm towards the knuckle will cause enough friction between the ball joint & the knuckle to tighten the nut. If the stud of the ball joint is sticking through the nut, grab it with vice grips & tighten the nut with a wrench. If not, get a non-locking nut the same diameter & thread pitch as the ball joint nut. Temporarily install it on the ball joint until the joint seats firmly in the knuckle. Then remove it & install the nut that came with the ball joint.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms How do you know when to replace the whole lower control arm?
tat2jim21 1 year ago
@tat2jim21 If the ball joint has failed & isn't available without the control arm, replace the control arm. If the control arm bushings are bad & the ball joint is bad, compare the price of the parts to the price of the whole arm. If the control arm is bent or broken, replace it.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@tat2jim21 It depends. Some vehicles come from the factory with ball joints integrated into the control arm as one complete assembly. There is no way to remove and replace the ball joint unless you replace the control arm with it. On some vehicles, the ball joint is integrated in the lower cntrl arm, some in the upper cntrl arm, some require both, some bolt in and some are pressed in.
FordFanatic59 11 months ago
How much would this cost on average at a shop. Parts, labor, alignment, etc.? Thanks!
powerman2442 1 year ago
@powerman2442 $600.00 to $1000.00 with OE parts, slightly less for aftermarket.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms I'm not 100% sure the ball joints are the issue with me truck. So let me ask you this; I have a 1998 F-150 XLT and front driver's side is making a squeaking noise. It happens when I hit bumps and I can replicate it by rocking the truck. I would say it was ball joints without a doubt, but the truck only has 39,750 miles. Even under rare circumstances would you think the stock sealed ball joints would go out before 40,000 miles? Is there anything else it could be? Thanks!
powerman2442 1 year ago
@powerman2442 I do Ford Super Duty trucks fairly often with under 20,000 miles since the last ball joint replacement. The 4x4 shop I work at now sells rebuildable extra heavy duty ball joints (BIG BUCKS) for them that last much longer under extreme conditions.
You can pick up a mechanic's stethoscope at a part's store & listen to each part while someone else rocks the truck. The loudest part is usually the culprit. It could be tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, shocks, etc.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms Thanks for the info! Good video by the way.
powerman2442 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms Pretty sure the noise isn't the ball joints since I checked them out and they look perfect. My dad thinks it is a dried out rubber "grommet", or whatever you'd call it. The truck is a 1998 and only has 39,975 miles on it as of today. I know it sat in a garage and wasn't driven much because it is in perfect condition. He says it is probably dried out from not being used often along with all the salt on the roads in Ohio. Every see anything like this happen?
powerman2442 1 year ago
@powerman2442 If the noise can be duplicated with the truck sitting still & only turning the steering wheel, the problem is most likely the ball joints or tie rod ends. If the truck has to be bounced up & down, then it could be ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings, etc. Try a stethoscope. You'll be able to hear where the problem is coming from.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms I haven't tried the stethoscope because it is to damn cold here in Ohio and our garage isn't heated. I'm not extremely worried about it, but I can tell you this. The noise can be hear when I am driving and hitting bumps. It can be heard when your rock the truck. And it can be heard when sitting in park and turning the wheel. Thanks for all your info by the way.
powerman2442 1 year ago
Thanks Man....
unitymixer 1 year ago
Alright man, this video helped me so much on my 1999 expedition 4wd (pretty much same truck) damn squeaky ass ball joints.
cartmankk2 1 year ago
Yes, I would say this is a very good example of how to perform ball joint service on an F-150. No mistakes.
duanewong 1 year ago
Nice vid, i was drivin my dads truck n the left lower ball joint broke, ima take it so my suspension class but should i do an alignment on it after i replace all the ball joints?
atv9386 1 year ago
@atv9386 If you move the alignment adjustment points it will need to be adjusted. If not, you should still have it checked.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
great video in detail
Do you have a video for replacing the oil seal on a F150 4x4 on the passenger side for the 4 wheel drive in great detail, where the cv joint meets the axle.
rbm830 1 year ago
@rbm830 Thanks. Not yet. If I get one that needs one, I'll make a video.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
one of the best how to videos on you tube!!! Excellent job.....Thanks for taking the time to do a high quality detailed video!!!
wsvitak 1 year ago
I have a 2wd and im pretty sure it has front springs. i noticed that this 4wd truck does not have coil springs in the front?
itimebomb89 1 year ago
@itimebomb89 It has torsion bars instead of coil springs.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
How hard is it to press the ball joints in if I don't have an impact wrench? thanks, great video.
NoNmeAv 1 year ago
@NoNmeAv I've never tired it. I'm sure it's possible & probably not too difficult with a 18 - 24 inch ratchet.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms I've done it twice with a 24 inch bar. That was enough for me to buy a good impact. it's possible but not a lot of fun.
Northernstar9370 1 year ago
You did a FANTASTIC job filming this video. the camera placement was perfect.
Besides being very informative.
Thank you
youviewme 1 year ago
You did a FANTASTIC job filming this video. the camera placement was perfect.
Besides being very informative.
Thank you!
youviewme 1 year ago
never re use cotter pins
powayflores13 1 year ago
everytime i do work on my car. I end up with a box full of nuts a bolts that i forget where i was suppose to put them. Oh well.
mario102395 1 year ago
@mario102395 Those are called pocket parts. Put them in your pocket and save them for later.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago 6
Why ford doesn't put grease zerks on there ball joints I'll never know. Would save a lot of people money for not having to replace all these parts.
Koshman32 1 year ago
Awsome video man, for do-it yourselfers like me this video is a dream, thanks
dangerdakota 1 year ago
Great video! is there any way to install the new one without a press? Will the weight of the vehicle do it? Thanks for any info!
txrankin5 1 year ago
@txrankin5 There isn't a good way to do this without a ball joint press. Some parts stores (Advance & Autozone-maybe others) offer loaner tools. This is where you give a deposit, usually the value of the tool, use the tool, and return it for a full refund when complete.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms how hard is it to press the ball joints in if I don't have an impact wrench? thanks.
NoNmeAv 1 year ago
How long did the job take?
web4cash2 1 year ago
@web4cash2 It was over a year ago. I really don't remember. Probably 3 hours or more for right & left upper & lower. Keep in mind it takes longer to do when I'm trying to make a video.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
Comment removed
web4cash2 1 year ago
Really well done, very enjoyable to watch. Thanks!
JohnMc52 1 year ago
jesuss christ!!! i wish i had that ball joint installer when i had to replace my points!!!
josh4380 1 year ago
Thanks for posting this video. I have a ranger and I know it has 4 ball joints. 2 upper and 2 lower. I want to rebuild the front end n was figuring that it might be similar to thing.
dbest1a 1 year ago
this dude means business!
Jumpstartmyh3art 1 year ago
do you have to worry about the springs while doing this ? i have a 97 ford f150
tat2jim21 1 year ago
@tat2jim21 The truck in the video has torsion bars instead of springs. Either way, the shock prevents the torsion bar or spring from unloading and holds the lower control arm steady.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms I was wondering, since I didn't hear anything about releasing the springs before taking it all apart.
Nivicoman 1 year ago
@tat2jim21
Good job, i am impressed at your skill and the dexterity you display in fixing vehicles, wish u have a shop in Los Angeles!
bittersweetdelly 1 year ago
i got a question for ya i have a 95 taurus and it squeaks on the driver side (front) and my steering is real stiff once the car warms up
ezkeyboardkid58 1 year ago
@ezkeyboardkid58 Is it a squeak over bumps, or when turning? Possible problem with tie rod, strut, or ball joint causing noise. Stiff steering may be power steering related. Have you checked your fluid level? Does the pump make noise when you steer?
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms yeah it queaks when i go over bumpss but only on the drivers side and the power steeringpmp makes lik a mild grinding noise the fluid level is fine
ezkeyboardkid58 1 year ago
@ezkeyboardkid58 I'm leaning towards a ball joint issue & a power steering issue. I would still check tie rods, struts, etc.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
oh Dave u make everything look so easy hahaha your the man Dave
MrStephenflynn 1 year ago
Roadragecustoms, I have a 1997 F-150 Club Cab, I took the truck in for it's 145k mile check up and was told that the inside of the drivers side front tire was being worn away (every time I would hit the gas or the break the tire would start to 'bump') I was told it was due to the ball bearings and tie rod needing to be replaced. I worked on my own breaks before, but watching the video, I see this is very different than working on the breaks. How difficult would this be for a 1st timer>
JRF1961 1 year ago
@JRF1961 It isn't too bad. Is it 2 or 4 wheel drive?
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
@roadragecustoms It is a two wheel drive.
JRF1961 1 year ago
@JRF1961 Watch my trailer bearing repack video to get a rough Idea of how to replace & / or repack your bearings. I also have vids on inner & outer tie rods. Let me know if you need any specific info.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
never knew how small the control arms are on the fords, my s10 control arms are way more heavy duty. but these ball joints are way easier to replace
coalandnuclear 1 year ago
never knew how small the control arms are on the fords, my s10 control arms are way more heavy duty.
coalandnuclear 1 year ago
Dave, is it a squeak I and everybody else should hear or is it a clunk sound?
Nightwing690 1 year ago
@Nightwing690 They can make either sound. This one was making a horrible squeaking sound that you can hear in the beginning of the video while I was driving & turning the wheel.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
I have the same problem with my 2000 Explorer. Thanks for the video.
buju 1 year ago
Man, I'll tell you what! This guys videos are great. You can tell he has been bustin wrenches for a while and thanks to him for shareing he knowledge.
dfredrich 1 year ago
Help me a ton thanks
acarter316 1 year ago
bot those pickle forks have good resonance XD lol
Nightwing690 1 year ago
HI. good video. I have a question. I have a 93 Ford T bird. I hear a CLICK click when ever I hit a bump or a dip in the road. Would that be a ball joint up front. HOw does one test a lower ball joint?
Romulan112 1 year ago
@Romulan112 That could be anything on the front end. To check your ball joints, lift the tire off the ground by the lower control arm. Shake the tire up & down & check for play in the lower ball joint. Also check all of your suspension parts for busted rubber boots or play / slop when you shake the tire side-to-side or up & down. Check your control arm bushings & sway bar link bushings for cracks. I hope this helps.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
lol. Thank you for this information.Very much appreciated.Keep those awsome videos comming bro.Take care
88quadzilla88 1 year ago
i have a 1976 F-100 2WD and im wondering if i need any special tools to change the centerlink bar and approx time to do this repair
88quadzilla88 1 year ago
@88quadzilla88 You should be able to do that with basic hand tools and a pickle fork (suspension type - not kitchen type) in about an hour. You'll still need an alignment afterward.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago
Thank you for the great Vid. So nice. I was wondering what brand did you use for all the replacement parts. Are they Moog? I need to do this next week. Should I replace anything else while I am under there? I just replaced the shocks and Sway bar links. Thank you. Adam
toothman340 1 year ago
@toothman340 The lower ball joints were Moog PN K8695T. The adjuster cams were Moog PN K8740. The upper arms were Dorman PNs 520-215 & 520-216. Replace anything that's bad. I don't like to replace parts I don't have to.
roadragecustoms 1 year ago