Cider Apple Trees: How to plant, grow & prune them

[lesleysuzanne]

love it

[TransitionVision1]

Thanks fiunary. Glad you liked it.

[fiunary]

Very good video.

[TransitionVision1]

Tying: John Worle says (Pt 2):

" I think the tie should be as close to the top of the stake as possible to prevent the trunk being damaged by the wind blowing it against the stake. Advances in modern tree nursery techniques mean we can now send out trees capable of producing quite heavy crops from the second year and at this early stage there is a danger that the trunk alone will not be strong enough to support such a weight, so the stake can provide some extra support in the first years."

[TransitionVision1]

Hello again @MarshwoodValeCider & @stephenhayesuk. Well, I've been in touch with John Worle, who thanks you both for your interest.

On staking & tying he says (Pt 1): "I personally think that the idea of tying close to the ground and allowing the top to move about in the wind does not in reality have any advantage over tying a little higher up. I have to say, when you get older, it's good not to have to crawl about under the tree to carry out checking and releasing of the tie every year!"

[TransitionVision1]

Thanks for your comments. We too hope that this orchard flourishes.

As regards staking and tying, we'll try to get hold of John Worle to ask him to elaborate.

(From what I can remember, by the way, the Marnhull Bitters are supposed to be good 'uns. Let's hope they do well for you.) JH

[stephenhayesuk]

Long life and success to this new orchard.

[MarshwoodValeCider]

I attended the event to collect 8 Marnhull Bitters for the orchard, the only, thing I could not understand with John Worle was staking and tying high up the whip, surely low to the ground to allow movement is better for root formation and a stronger tree overall?