Added: 4 years ago
From: WattSekunde
Views: 25,649
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  • can you put up the source code? (honestly, why don't people think to put the source code in the description, I would be sure to)

  • @supergenius1994 Sorry, but I decided to use my code for another (commercial) project. But I will give you hints for your own experience ;-).

    Thanks.

  • @WattSekunde what could you possibly have used this for, that you couldn't put up the source code?, I mean, it is so simple, if you don't tell me, then I am going to go to some other sight, and figure it out on my own anyways, it's not like this is a computer application or anything

  • @supergenius1994 I have a commercial offer for my source code. It's used for a RGBW LED Light Project. Sorry, today I can't place it as open source here. Don't be angry about that.

    But as a supergenius from 1994(?) it would be easy for you to write down this PIC Microchip assembler thing. ;-) You are right it is easy and a nice thing to do direct in assembler. I give nearly all hints at the comment to ollyk22.

    Thanks

  • This is great I am about to start planning my code for similar. Can I ask I assume you created a manual PWM by using int. interupt and then offsetting led values...

    Not sure how to go about it yet but that is part of the fun with pics I guess!

  • @ollyk22 Thanks! Let me explain a little.

    1. There are two independent loops needed. The independent 4 channel PWM (150Hz) and the rotating speed (2Hz). The PWM has to be the faster loop so it makes sense to use the int for the slower rotating loop because every int needs extra time.

    2. The interrupt routine should be as short as possible. The PWM loop is more complex than each rotating step.

    The rotating 2Hz is so slow that the easiest way is the use of an timer interrupt for that task.

  • @WattSekunde Thanks for that I think you have given me enough to go on ;) Shame some people think it a right to expect folks like yourself to hand out their hard work for free though ^^

  • @ollyk22 Feel free to ask if you have some more questions about it. Maybe sometimes we can see some nice results on your channel ;-).

    Yes, working with PIC CPUs is very funny. I have a lot of ideas but not so much time today to realize them.

    Have Fun!

    PS: (Thank's for the clear words!)

  • On the other hand, the PIC12f629 can drive a beacon with up to 20 LEDs (by connecting the LEDs bidirectionally in a mesh like fashion between the 5 outputs (pentagon + pentagram), and putting high impedance the inactive pins in the mesh). So with 20 LEDs, you don't need PWM at all anymore.

  • Yes, that's true.

    Because my intention was to build a very tiny SMD-LED beacon. Example: 1:87 fire-truck.

    The next version should build with 4x 0402 SMD LEDs! Take a look on the instructables link.

  • This is a wonderful idea. Switching the leds with PWM sure looks realistic, you wouldn't say it's only 4 leds.

    You could also add a similar blue beacon, with each blue led connected to the opposite red led in the red beacon, to create a 180deg phase shift for a minimalist police light.

    (I believe the real police light consist of 6 beacons, 3 red + 3 blue, with corresponding delays.)

  • Thanks!

    It is a very nice idea to add more LEDs to the same outputs. Each 12Fxxx I/O Pin could drive 5V / 25mA! 5V is enough for one red and one blue LED in line. And with 25mA continuous I/O current you can try to drive 3 red/blue pairs parallel.

  • wow this is cool. can you post the code that you used to do this? cause i gonna make one myself when i have the time (and tools) to make it.

  • I think about posting the code later this year. The next three or four month I am to busy. Sorry.

    Thanks!

  • alright cool

  • Very Impressive!

  • Thanks!

  • Could you add a coin or other common object to show scale? Some users could be missing just how small this array is.

  • You are right. I have to add a better scale.

    But there are two hints:

    - The square on the paper under the LEDs is 2 by 2 mm.

    - In the second Part (00:10) of this Video you can see the 1 mm lines on the ruler under the paper.

    More infos and pics at the link under "About This Video" ;-)

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