Added: 4 years ago
From: AsktheBuilder
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  • I need the builder at my house tomorrow at 7am

  • @chevyrag4 I'm on my cell phone now reading this. I've been knocking at your door for the past 35 minutes. No answer. Enormous frustration after driving all night. I'm going back home now. Next time set your alarm. :->

  • Do I cut each end of the same board the same way ? Do I cut both of them upside down ?

  • Compound mitre's tend to much safer then table saw's. I've never had a piece of wood pulled into a blade or jumped (which is usually how you loose a finger on a table saw).

    Just keep the piggies outside of the redzone. :)

  • thanks i try tomorrow in my job

  • Can you use a table saw?

  • @chios1958 Can you read all the comments?

  • i dont have a miter saw to cut the crown molding that way, do you know what miter and bevel angles i could use on a table saw?

  • We are assuming that the walls are straight and the angle is a 90. Not true in old houses and that is where the reality checks in. Let's do a corner that is not a perfect 90, showing us the best way to compute and cut. Thanks.

  • So very true!! I cover exactly how to deal with out-of-square corners in my ebook about Crown Molding. You can see it in the Store at my AsktheBuilder website.

  • your last cut on the video was scary. your fingers looked way too close to the blade.

  • See below..... You have to be aware.

  • @carykong

    For demo purposes maybe, but notice his age, and that he has all his fingers.... he's doing something right!

  • @carykong

    Not really, his fingers were a good 1.5" maybe 2" from the blade, i'm 16 im currently doing my coop at a cabinet making shop and iv done smaller cuts then that where my fingers are less then 1" from the blade.

  • if you cut crown molding with your fingers near that blade say good bye to them. Too many people don't show you how to use a miter saw correctly

  • That's a very good tip. Safety is so important. It's a matter of being aware: Where the blade is when it's spinning and where your fingers are. I still have my fingers, so you can say Hello! to them each day if you're careful.

  • true, i've seen so many guys on the job desperate to get a cut quickly they basicly almost cut their fingers off its like...seriously production is one thing but if you lose fingers, you're worth nothing:D

  • what angle is the crown molding cut at?

  • Half the angle of the intersection of the two walls where you're installing it.

  • that's the first time I've seen cutting baseboards upright...whats the diff if I cut baseboards flat (most guys don't have an expensive mitre saw like yours with a high clearance)?

  • None. If you have a compound saw, cut them flat. Whatever makes your boat float.

  • thank you very much!!!!

  • very good video

  • Thanks for your well explained video.

  • Awesome video and it really helped me do it right the first time. I watched 10 other videos before I found this one. WOW, it was way easier, faster and I didn't waste any material, like I've seen others do.

    Thanks very much for your video. Ray

  • Ray, Thanks. If your really want to discover all the tricks, you should get my Crown Molding EBook!!! You should see what I have in there.

  • gracias!! fron CHILE

  • De nada!

  • I've since discovered that coving CAN be cut in the exact way as in this video (coving = crown moulding without the detail, it is simply curved). But i am struggling with corner joints. Why is it that external corners are coped for base boards because corners are rarely 90 degrees, and yet mitred for crown moulding?

  • You don't see me cope joints in these videos for a reason. Hint hint - wink wink.

  • I just wasted about a yard of coving by trying to apply this method. Don't suppose you have any tips on using a mitre saw to cut coving? I only have an electronic mitre, not a block/box. :(

  • I don't know what *coving* is. Wish you could send a photo. Load a video of the thing to your channel and come back here with a link to it.

  • i wish you professionals wouldnt make everything look so easy. "Watch me cope this baseboard in 2 seconds". Yeah right!

  • But what I show in this video is easy! Coping, that's a different story. I never said coping was easy. It's not. It takes great skills and magic to cope a very tight joint.

  • if your saw is capable, getting 38 deg crown instead of 45 deg is much as you can lay it flat and cut at a 33.8 deg bevel, and a 31.6 deg miter. most saws in the last 5 years have stops for all that. that way you know your angle is right instead of having to worry about getting it to sit right on the table. especially with long pieces and one person

  • Issac, it's not a challenge to hold the crown on the table as I show. I've done it for years by myself. You're way works no doubt, but the average homeowner will *never* figure out the spring angle. In the time they try your method, they would have the room done my method.

  • That cut only makes a butt joint. I need a video on corners without using a compound saw

  • Uh, did you take the time to watch my other five Crown-Molding videos???? :-> Patience grasshopper.... patience.

  • I have 7 years doing framing carpentry rafters diferent pich,hips,valleys,bastard hips,octagon roffs and , I never saw nobody before cutting crow moulding like you thank you very much.

  • Thanks! I didn't invent the method. Think for a moment. How old are compound miter saws? Twenty-five years at most? Go look at old homes and all that crown. How did the master carpenters of old cut it? The way I show.... and they used hand saws at that.

  • im not sure how being a framer makes you and authority on crown..just say thats all

  • Issac, with all due respect, I'm a master carpenter. I'm an authority on Crown Molding for a number of reasons. It's not rocket science my friend. Plus, I've written a book about it that sells many copies each week. I went to your channel here on YouTube and can't figure out what in the world you're an expert at. No videos, no profile, nothing. Your invisible. Why not share your knowledge with videos you create?

  • Ya but what about the angles you need if you are to cut it flat the way  you demonstarait cutting the base baoard

  • Uh, tell me why in the world you would want to waste your time doing that? In the time you determine what the spring angle of your crown is, and set the saw, I'll have two pieces of crown up and nailed with my method. The master craftsmen of old never had compound saws. No need for them.

  • It's just that my big crown wont fit under the saw your way. I'll try again tommorrow

  • That can indeed be problematic!

  • I was taught to use a compound mitre to join 2 pcs of molding and to let the pointed edge run away from the most common view as you enter the room. that way your eye "runs over"

    the joint unlike a butt joint. I have glued and bradded to secure it.

  • Yeah, but what about those people who do not know which side of the crown molding goes toward the ceiling? I've seen installations where the joints are nice, but the profile is upside down...

  • Thank you so much!!! Got it done in a day and it looks awesome!! :-)

  • When you need to do some really tough installations, you may want to consider my Crown Molding Ebook.

  • Thank you!!!! I was getting so frustrated.

  • This was very useful, thanks. can you offer advice on what to do when your span is longer than a single piece of Crown Molding. I know you have to make a angle cut to join the two (to conceal the joing), but how/where do you measure to insure both end (mitered ends) end up flush to the corners. I'm doing all inside joints by the way... thanks

  • I always do square cuts to mate two pieces. Less surface area to match up. Install one piece and measure accurately for the second one. This is all covered in great detail in my Crown-Molding EBook.

  • I've installed thousands of feet of crown, there is no better way, however upsidedown always throws people off

  • I greatly appreciate the simple advice! You made my life a lot easier!

  • Thanks AsktheBuilder! you saved me alot of frustration!

  • You are most welcome.

  • Your videos are very helpful. I was wondering if there is any way to cut crown molding with a table saw? i am a new woodworker and all these tools are getting expensive. i want to make the most of each. Thanks for the advice

  • I am sure someone has tried it. It would be like using a putter to drive a golf ball 250 yards. Get the right tool so you don't kill or maim yourself.

  • not really what i wanted to hear, but i know you are right. I'll try the right way. thanks

  • What if your crown is too big for the top part to be up against the "wall"?

  • Clamp a straight piece of wood on the vertical fence of the saw.

  • Thank you. I am just starting out in woodworking. My wife thinks I have a wooden thumb. I enjoy your tips. Keep up the good work!!!

  • This is NOT the way to cut crown. You set your saw at 2 DIFFERENT angles 36.2 and 31.6 I beleive and simply flip the peice around to get the different cuts. You will NEVER have to adjust the saw. YOu put the peice into the saw laying FLAT. Sure this is how most people cut it but on an informational video you should show the RIGHT way of doing things. The angles are marked on just about every miter saw.

  • (Shaking head and frowning) Why would you say such a thing when you see the method works? Not all people own a compound miter saw and the cradftsmen of hundreds of years ago never had access to them. The method I show here doesn't require knowing the spring angle, and you admit yourself *you* don't know it. Learn to accept there may be better ways.

  • You're right, and im sorry for being so critical. The reason I dont know the angles is because they are marked on my saw so I just set it and go to work. Ill admit that this is an accepted method, and ill also admit that my method takes alot of getting used to and youll mess up ALOT before you get the hang of it...

  • Furthermore when I was working on modulars and the corners were almost always out of square I had to resort to your method. It is a little bit harder though because the crown I worked with had rounded edges on the back and I notice that yours has nice big flat surfaces. I will make a video demonstrating my method when I get some spare time. Your a true craftsman and thanks for getting back to me on my many comments. Sorry for so many but your videos got me psyched!

  • No worries! I appreciate your professionalism. Many people leave bitter, useless comments. Let me know when you post your videos. I would love to learn your methods.

  • Here's another satisfied customer!!! I JUST WANT TO SAY THANK YOU!!! I've wasted about 30ft of material learning how to cut crown. This is the greatest tips for timers...and you don't need a coping saw!!! AWESOME!!! Your tip works...very efficient. Don't know what the guy above was on, but you don't have to defend your experience...it shows...and it works! Thanks!

  • You, sir, rock. I spent hours and a few pieces of molding trying to figure this out. I watched your vid and got it in minutes. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

  • You are most welcome! Satisfied customers is what YouTube is all about! Help spread the word about my channel and all other great YouTube channels that are trying to help people. I would love to see a photo of your completed crown-molding job.

  • due to operator error/blade wobble/dull blade this increases the chance for kickback.with the operators hand in tension against against the fence, one could in a "kickback" move their hand into the blade. what is safer upside down/backward or flat on the deck? also it's more acurete (agree ?)

  • This would be true in *any* cutting situation. All I can tell you is I have make thousands of cuts using my method. Never has the blade bound up, never has there been kickback, never have the cuts been inaccurate unless I was not paying attention to my measurements. *Your* mileage may vary. :-> Everyone has different skill levels. Never assume all are equal.

  • sir, the cruel joke part.okay, should retract that.however as any blade plunges into the material it is important that once the teeth pass through the material they are no longer in contact. otherwise the chance for binding increases. (agree disagree?) with the crown upside down/backwards the teeth are contacting the top,middle, and bottom simultaniously.

  • I disagree. As the blade plunges, it is pushing the wood against the fence and the table. Your hand holds it steady just as it would if it were flat on the table. Try it yourself and see with a scrape piece. It will not feel wobbly.

  • yea well whoever uses the upside down and backward idea is going to be dissa pointed. it's like this guy is pulling a cruel joke on you do it yourselfers..

    you need a miter guage/protractor and then the crown lays flat, face upand and gets cut with the miter and bevel at different angles according to the inside/ outside angle..these miter/bevel angles are easily found on the internet. i think dewaltcom has em for free. btw upside down backwards is dangerous.especialy for beginners.

  • I respectfully disagree. I have 35 years worth of *thousands* of linear feet of crown cut and installed in this manner. No open joints, never a cut finger, no more danger than you holding the same piece of wood in your compound saw. My video is just showing one way to get something accomplished. Why not use your YouTube account in a positive way and tape a video showing your method? Posting negative comments is not a good thing for the YouTube ecosystem.

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