How did you bump the engine over?? I'm currently replacing the IP on my 6.2 diesel but I can't figure out how to bump the engine over to get to the 2 remaining bolts in the filler neck hole.
Thats a nice looking Burb! I watched your video and it seems like your bateries are dead. Even your guage shows low voltage... Have you hooked a charger up to it? Also, what is that clicking noise when you turn it over? It seems louder than the glow controller.
As far as the pump goes you can get to the last two external bolts with a regular 15mm box wrench, but its easier if you heat a wrench up and bend it into an "S" shape. To turn the inner bolts just bump the motor over.
Thats a nice looking Burb! I watched your video and it seems like your bateries are dead. Even your guage shows low voltage... Have you hooked a charger up to it? Also, what is that clicking noise when you turn it over? It seems louder than the glow controller.
As far as the pump goes you can get to the last two external bolts with a regular 15mm box wrench, but its easier if you heat a wrench up and bend it into an "S" shape. To turn the inner bolts just bump the motor over.
Thats a nice looking Burb! I watched your video and it seems like your bateries are dead. Even your guage shows low voltage... Have you hooked a charger up to it? Also, what is that clicking noise when you turn it over? It seems louder than the glow controller.
As far as the pump goes you can get to the last two external bolts with a regular 15mm box wrench, but its easier if you heat a wrench up and bend it into an "S" shape. To turn the inner bolts just bump the motor over.
Thats a nice looking Burb! I watched your video and it seems like your bateries are dead. Even your guage shows low voltage... Have you hooked a charger up to it? Also, what is that clicking noise when you turn it over? It seems louder than the glow controller.
As far as the pump goes you can get to the last two external bolts with a regular 15mm box wrench, but its easier if you heat a wrench up and bend it into an "S" shape. To turn the inner bolts just bump the motor over.
Thanks rustys72, I actually had that same thought. I wondered if everything was indeed normal. I've heard others say if you bolt them straight up there is no adjustment needed. But when I saw that the TDC offset was the same before and after I thought it was too much of a coincidence and probably the PCM hadnt been updated. Anyway, I'm going to rethink not timing it and see if there is a risk of screwing up what seems to be working fine.
You dont always have to redo the timing after replacement but be prepared to do it. I did one last month and lined it up exactly where the previous pump was and did not have to do the timing. Before removing the top flange bolt I measured its location relative to the slot it fit inside, which is wide for adjustment. Then I mounted the new pump with the bolt in the same relative location. One of the hardest parts were the line nuts. Get a flare wrench or grind the wrench down - great idea!
I've done the same thing where I replaced a pump and everything seemed normal so I didn't get it timed. However this is really not the case. According to Stanadyne when they rebuild the pumps they are internally timed during the rebuild process. Even if you mark the location of the old pump and put the new pump on in the exact location you have something of a one in hundred chance it will actually be timed correctly. The pump will wear prematurely without timing it.
Thanks I went ahead a purchased a electronic one. People like you make YouTube a great site. Oh you said timing was a issue on these, if I line the dowel pin up do I have to time it?
You have to line the dowel pin and scribe a mark on top of the old pump before you take it off so you can put the new one on in the exact position. The pump will rotate and you want to get it as close to the old one as possible. Even if you do this you will have to time the pump with a tech 1 or 2 depending on the year. The dealer can do this for you. Also I'm going to put a video about this on YouTube soon.
Yes you can put a mechanical on. You have to change out the injector lines and put a new pedal and cable because the electrical pump is fly by wire. You will lose your cruise control and have DTC's showing all the time. I talked to the place that rebuilds my pumps and they said that they had done a couple of conversions and it really wasn't worth it.
I've replaced about three since posting this video and I've discovered that you can use just the open end of the box wrench, but it is easier with the box end cut out. As far as priming ice never had an issue. I just turn it over for about 20 seconds and it will fire up and work the air out without bleeding. Timing is going to be your main issue if its a 94 and up.
should of gone with a mechanical injector pump they were bad ass engines till they hooked them up to a computer all diesels were good till then i would have converted that to non computer im fixing to make my TBI 97 Z71 carbereted when the fuel pump goes out its gonna get a 650 Holly
Thanks for the info and taking the time to make this video. I've been plagued with this same problem. No local shop will do the timing for me unless they replace the pump also, so your video really helps. Thanks! - Mike
im questionable about the reliability of the 6.5 Turbo diesel. im looking at a 94 silverado with 244k miles 4x4 xnd cab the works for 2 grand. what are the costs associated with owning a diesel vs a 350 gas? and what are the power differences i want more POWER!
The 6.5 is reliable, but they have a lot of problems with IP and PMD's and everything is more expensive on a diesel. They have a ton of torque! I towed a 5k trailer over the Smokeys going 60mph the entire way! Its a strong pulling motor, but your not gonna break any speed records. You could part the truck out and make more than 2g so I would say its a safe bet. Ask the guy when he last replaced his IP.
@rustys72 I still find a lot with new pump and non relocated psd....so you can get them for a steal since the owner is scared of it by then. If only people wouldnt trash their interior I could have one
@emmy6423 This could possibly be your injection pump, but random stalling is most likely pointed towards your PMD module.
TheRobertwoods 2 months ago
How did you bump the engine over?? I'm currently replacing the IP on my 6.2 diesel but I can't figure out how to bump the engine over to get to the 2 remaining bolts in the filler neck hole.
ChevyDieselBoy 4 months ago
when should i replace the injection pump? i have a 98 chev 6.5td with 80k on it.
CostcoBulkBuyer 8 months ago
Who rebuilds injection pumpsfor a 6.5 TD, in Detroit, Michigan or surrounding area's?
TheSheed111 9 months ago
Thats a nice looking Burb! I watched your video and it seems like your bateries are dead. Even your guage shows low voltage... Have you hooked a charger up to it? Also, what is that clicking noise when you turn it over? It seems louder than the glow controller.
As far as the pump goes you can get to the last two external bolts with a regular 15mm box wrench, but its easier if you heat a wrench up and bend it into an "S" shape. To turn the inner bolts just bump the motor over.
rustys72 10 months ago
Thats a nice looking Burb! I watched your video and it seems like your bateries are dead. Even your guage shows low voltage... Have you hooked a charger up to it? Also, what is that clicking noise when you turn it over? It seems louder than the glow controller.
As far as the pump goes you can get to the last two external bolts with a regular 15mm box wrench, but its easier if you heat a wrench up and bend it into an "S" shape. To turn the inner bolts just bump the motor over.
rustys72 10 months ago
Thats a nice looking Burb! I watched your video and it seems like your bateries are dead. Even your guage shows low voltage... Have you hooked a charger up to it? Also, what is that clicking noise when you turn it over? It seems louder than the glow controller.
As far as the pump goes you can get to the last two external bolts with a regular 15mm box wrench, but its easier if you heat a wrench up and bend it into an "S" shape. To turn the inner bolts just bump the motor over.
rustys72 10 months ago
How do you open the 2 other bolts for remove IP because the first it's easy but the other two ...
how you turn central axe?
defalcon007 10 months ago
@defalcon007
Thats a nice looking Burb! I watched your video and it seems like your bateries are dead. Even your guage shows low voltage... Have you hooked a charger up to it? Also, what is that clicking noise when you turn it over? It seems louder than the glow controller.
As far as the pump goes you can get to the last two external bolts with a regular 15mm box wrench, but its easier if you heat a wrench up and bend it into an "S" shape. To turn the inner bolts just bump the motor over.
rustys72 10 months ago
how can I be sure for new IP timing
defalcon007 10 months ago
HI,
I'm in belgium and my 6.5 chevy suburban won't start (see my video please)
I want to know how to be sure betwen IP or optosensor.
and for change IP i'll be open the 3 bolt that I see in the arrival oil
thank's
PS ; sorry for my english
defalcon007 10 months ago
Thanks rustys72, I actually had that same thought. I wondered if everything was indeed normal. I've heard others say if you bolt them straight up there is no adjustment needed. But when I saw that the TDC offset was the same before and after I thought it was too much of a coincidence and probably the PCM hadnt been updated. Anyway, I'm going to rethink not timing it and see if there is a risk of screwing up what seems to be working fine.
hankallan 1 year ago
You dont always have to redo the timing after replacement but be prepared to do it. I did one last month and lined it up exactly where the previous pump was and did not have to do the timing. Before removing the top flange bolt I measured its location relative to the slot it fit inside, which is wide for adjustment. Then I mounted the new pump with the bolt in the same relative location. One of the hardest parts were the line nuts. Get a flare wrench or grind the wrench down - great idea!
hankallan 1 year ago
@hankallan
I've done the same thing where I replaced a pump and everything seemed normal so I didn't get it timed. However this is really not the case. According to Stanadyne when they rebuild the pumps they are internally timed during the rebuild process. Even if you mark the location of the old pump and put the new pump on in the exact location you have something of a one in hundred chance it will actually be timed correctly. The pump will wear prematurely without timing it.
rustys72 1 year ago
@hankallan using a crow foot makes it super easy.
ukeefish 1 year ago
Thanks I went ahead a purchased a electronic one. People like you make YouTube a great site. Oh you said timing was a issue on these, if I line the dowel pin up do I have to time it?
billkeno 1 year ago
You have to line the dowel pin and scribe a mark on top of the old pump before you take it off so you can put the new one on in the exact position. The pump will rotate and you want to get it as close to the old one as possible. Even if you do this you will have to time the pump with a tech 1 or 2 depending on the year. The dealer can do this for you. Also I'm going to put a video about this on YouTube soon.
rustys72 1 year ago
Can you put a mechanical pump on these electronics ones?
billkeno 1 year ago
Yes you can put a mechanical on. You have to change out the injector lines and put a new pedal and cable because the electrical pump is fly by wire. You will lose your cruise control and have DTC's showing all the time. I talked to the place that rebuilds my pumps and they said that they had done a couple of conversions and it really wasn't worth it.
rustys72 1 year ago
I've replaced about three since posting this video and I've discovered that you can use just the open end of the box wrench, but it is easier with the box end cut out. As far as priming ice never had an issue. I just turn it over for about 20 seconds and it will fire up and work the air out without bleeding. Timing is going to be your main issue if its a 94 and up.
rustys72 1 year ago
no special tools other than the cut wrench?
how did you bleed after putting intake back on?
patwregan 1 year ago
should of gone with a mechanical injector pump they were bad ass engines till they hooked them up to a computer all diesels were good till then i would have converted that to non computer im fixing to make my TBI 97 Z71 carbereted when the fuel pump goes out its gonna get a 650 Holly
DRNEGOLICIS 1 year ago
Thanks for the info and taking the time to make this video. I've been plagued with this same problem. No local shop will do the timing for me unless they replace the pump also, so your video really helps. Thanks! - Mike
fabrikus 2 years ago
im questionable about the reliability of the 6.5 Turbo diesel. im looking at a 94 silverado with 244k miles 4x4 xnd cab the works for 2 grand. what are the costs associated with owning a diesel vs a 350 gas? and what are the power differences i want more POWER!
danomaha420118 2 years ago
The 6.5 is reliable, but they have a lot of problems with IP and PMD's and everything is more expensive on a diesel. They have a ton of torque! I towed a 5k trailer over the Smokeys going 60mph the entire way! Its a strong pulling motor, but your not gonna break any speed records. You could part the truck out and make more than 2g so I would say its a safe bet. Ask the guy when he last replaced his IP.
rustys72 2 years ago
@rustys72 I still find a lot with new pump and non relocated psd....so you can get them for a steal since the owner is scared of it by then. If only people wouldnt trash their interior I could have one
Veikra 1 year ago
i'm glad my 6.2 has half the wires that 6.5 does
pfcwatts111 2 years ago