So I'd used a D200 but I sold it a while back. Recently I was thinking of getting a D90. I used to shoot sports with my 80-200mm f/2.8D on the D200 and at ISO 100, 1/4000 was the perfect shutter speed. However I read that the D90's sensor was a little bigger and let more light in but the max shutter speed is 1/4000. I was wondering if I can use an ND filter to bump the shutter speed back to sub 4000. And what are the thoughts on graduated ND filters?
It's because you got the resin version of Cokins filter. Resin (hard plastic like material) is very well known for creating strong color casting and prone to scratches. Cokins' glass filters are the opposite.
@felipehenaovideos Here, here Feli, Cokin & all the other plastic fitlers are rubbish it just gives the makers a bigger profit margin. The idea of putting a piece of plastic infront of that high quality lens you just paid mega bucks for flys in the face of common sense
If I am looking to shoot with a faster aperture, say 1.4-2.8 is it necessary to remove the filter before each shot? Or, can the camera just meter through the filter and see a "darker" environment?
If you are using these apertures in bright conditions (i.e. sunlight or in a studio), leave the filter on. Camera can meter but it will not be very accurate; it is recommended to use manual mode then compensate the ISO and shutter speed at the given aperture.
@Lilkiwiguy87 Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it! Since I've got you here...by your best estimates what density of filter would I need to shoot wide open (1.8) at a relatively moderate shutter speed, say 1/60 - 1/400th in relative daylight? I was thinking of picking up a .3 and a .9 or a .6 and .9 or a 1.8...basically, how many stops of light reduction do you think I'd need?
Basic Daylight Exposure is 1/250s at F/8.0, ISO 200. The difference between F/1.8 and F/8.0 is roughly 4 and 1/3 stops. So, ND 0.9 (3 stops) then fine tune the shutter speed by 1 and 1/3 stops. You can go with ND 1.8 (6 stops) but it is probably too dark where it will require slower shutter speeds and / or higher ISO sensitivities.
Are Cokin filters so good? I own one from Cokin filters. But i cant judge it cause its my first buy - 58mm cpl. I wish I had one of these nd filters but again its aint so easy to choose, besides i bought cpl for my fujifilm digital compact so i cannot afford long exposures without getting noise in 5 pics out of 8. Besides I have no idea how much is it, and are there screw-in nd filters. As far as i know there is no problems with glass thickness or vignetting, cause its 28mm wide angle
Cokins is in the recommended ND glass filters category, so, yes. In other words, it has a good image quality, as long as it is glass (not resin). Cokins do offer circular (screw-in) and square (slide-in) glass filters as well.
I just purchased this one for now, until I come by enough money to buy filters from Heliopan, Cokin, or B+W. So I was just wondering... Is the Bower's series of filters completely mediocre, or decent?
3) Do you ever use a light meter to help tune readings on your subject and compare it to the camera reading with the filter installed? The difference in readings would give the level of compensation between what is there on the subject and what is being changed with the filter installed would it not? Thus you could avoid having to remove the filter for your shots as you move around with the filter installed?
Finally, working around ocean air any corrosion issues with fine filter threads?
3: If you are asking us directly, no, we do not use a light meter. We use M Mode and get a good exposure reading before attaching a ND filter. Then we continue using same exposure from shot to shot by balancing it with different SS, F/#, and ISO.
Light meters will not help because the readings will be the same without a ND filter, requiring you to calculate the new exposure setting in the head. It's not necessary.
High quality glass filters' rings are made from brass, it will not get rusty.
@meltdownman1 I would like to point out that if the filter attachment is made up of Aluminium instead of Brass then the filter threads under usage might get fused with the lens's filter mount(if made up of Aluminium). As Aluminium tends to fuse with aluminium under change of temperature.
2) The 5D Mark II is notorious for giving that yellow/golden glow when shooting video at night with city lights. Any suggestions as to whether or not a filter could correct this to either more natural colors or even add more creativity?
Thanks for a very informative concise form of info...love the effort put into it.
2: We believe this glow effect is lens haze. Usually, it is caused by either shooting at the widest aperture, dirty glass filter, and / or dirty lens. Try stopping it down by a stop, clean the lens and / or filter then test it again. Another possibility is that you used a white balance that is too warm. Try using Tungsten then fine-tune the WB with cooler or warmer temperatures.
ND filters do not correct colors or get rid of hazing. It only allows slow SS, high F/#, and high ASA only.
Back again to pick your brain, New Canon 5D Mark II user
1) Any advice on using a filter to shoot pics say with their back to sunset like in your vid while using a flash for fill effects? I don't see this topic covered as a potential artistic creative effect with the flash photography.
We're not Canon users so we're not entirely sure but we'll say it anyway.
If your 5DM2 can fire the flash at very high shutter speeds, go ahead and use it. Adjust the exposure (SS, F/#, and ISO) until you get the desired result. Then turn on the flash and do a couple of test shots at different flash value settings until you get the desired result.
If your 5DM2 does not support it, then yes, a ND filter will help (expect to use a higher flash power setting).
if you're an amateur and are looking to buy neutral density or polarized filters, look for the cokin p mounting, it's "cheaper" and more practical....
@Lilkiwiguy87 you clearly have more control with a filter system, then with a screw-in filter, plus, the screw-in filters are expensive, especially the ones above 58mm range.
What is the reason that you don't recommend Hoya branded filters? Does that include their PRO-1D line of filters specifically made for digital as well?
I was thinking of purchasing the Hoya 77mm Pro-1D NDx8 filter.
Anyone here ever tried to cascade these filters to do direct Sun photography? What else can be used? I've tried using old floppy disc as a filter but obviously it's far from neutral...
It's not possible to take pictures of the sun in the middle of the day. If you manage to do so, the sun will be dark grey instead of a big orange ball of flames.
Thanks for a quick reply. I guess what I'm trying to achieve is more like an astrophotography shot. I'd like to get sharp shot of the Sol regardless of color balance. I'd aim for detail rather than color.
If I use two 8 stop filters, do I get 16 stop or am I dreaming? Thanks!
We're afraid there isn't a 8 or 16 stops ND filters, unless you stack them up but we wouldn't recommend doing that. 10 stops (ND 3.0), fast shutter speed, low aperture, and low ISO sensitivity will be able to capture an image of the sun. You would need to wear sunglasses behind the camera for your own safety.
Excellent video. I'm surprised you didn't mention the 4x6 filters? I personally perfer them to the screw on type especially when your using a soft grad. What are your thought on resin versus glass?
A lot of the brands that we recommended on the video make square filters as well but when it comes to ND's, screw-on or square filters won't make any noticeable difference.
Personally, we wouldn't bother using resin filters because we would have to babysit it like it's an actual infant because it is extremely easy to scratch. Glass is better choice over resin, the only drawback is glass are more expensive.
Great info! I was wondering how i can fix some overexposed portions of my mid-afternoon outdoor exposures, now i know. Btw, where can you get one of these angry "ultraviolent" filters mentioned at 5:55 sounds scary hahaha ;-)
For artsy landscapes, 10 stops ND (3.0) would be the best choice and try to get slow shutter speed down to 20s-30s at F/8.0 on DX (or F/16.0 if using FX or film).
Graduated ND filters are okay, not that great. You can try a circular polarizer but it is only effective on cloudless days. Soft edge GND filters offer better translation between normal and bright exposures without nasty line that is caused by hard edge GND filters.
You don't recommend Hoya?
keithchircop 5 hours ago
@keithchircop nope. hoya is one of many low quality brands.
superkiwizorro 5 hours ago
So I'd used a D200 but I sold it a while back. Recently I was thinking of getting a D90. I used to shoot sports with my 80-200mm f/2.8D on the D200 and at ISO 100, 1/4000 was the perfect shutter speed. However I read that the D90's sensor was a little bigger and let more light in but the max shutter speed is 1/4000. I was wondering if I can use an ND filter to bump the shutter speed back to sub 4000. And what are the thoughts on graduated ND filters?
arignumb 3 months ago
@arignumb you're about to waste money instead of doing something soooo simple... stop the lens down. LOL
superkiwizorro 3 months ago
is it okay to use ND Filters at night with long exposure? I just saw someone who did it and don't know if he is doing it right. Need some help.
amielclarkpianolin 4 months ago
Long exposure at night can be done without a ND filter unless you're talking about really bright places like Times Square.
Lilkiwiguy87 4 months ago
Good to know, thanks
felipehenaovideos 7 months ago
B+W are great Cokin has a heavy color cast, and scratch with the air
terrible filters
felipehenaovideos 7 months ago
It's because you got the resin version of Cokins filter. Resin (hard plastic like material) is very well known for creating strong color casting and prone to scratches. Cokins' glass filters are the opposite.
Lilkiwiguy87 7 months ago
@felipehenaovideos Here, here Feli, Cokin & all the other plastic fitlers are rubbish it just gives the makers a bigger profit margin. The idea of putting a piece of plastic infront of that high quality lens you just paid mega bucks for flys in the face of common sense
trackend 6 months ago
If you put a 0.3 on top of a 0.6, will it then give a 0.9? :)
Troe0807 8 months ago
Yes and don't repost the same comment 3 times.
Lilkiwiguy87 8 months ago
@Lilkiwiguy87 Sorry, youtube had some problems with sending the comment, seems like the opposite! :D
Troe0807 8 months ago
Excellent video!
wannabeb3 1 year ago
If I am looking to shoot with a faster aperture, say 1.4-2.8 is it necessary to remove the filter before each shot? Or, can the camera just meter through the filter and see a "darker" environment?
charlesjstark 1 year ago
If you are using these apertures in bright conditions (i.e. sunlight or in a studio), leave the filter on. Camera can meter but it will not be very accurate; it is recommended to use manual mode then compensate the ISO and shutter speed at the given aperture.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
@Lilkiwiguy87 Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it! Since I've got you here...by your best estimates what density of filter would I need to shoot wide open (1.8) at a relatively moderate shutter speed, say 1/60 - 1/400th in relative daylight? I was thinking of picking up a .3 and a .9 or a .6 and .9 or a 1.8...basically, how many stops of light reduction do you think I'd need?
charlesjstark 1 year ago
Basic Daylight Exposure is 1/250s at F/8.0, ISO 200. The difference between F/1.8 and F/8.0 is roughly 4 and 1/3 stops. So, ND 0.9 (3 stops) then fine tune the shutter speed by 1 and 1/3 stops. You can go with ND 1.8 (6 stops) but it is probably too dark where it will require slower shutter speeds and / or higher ISO sensitivities.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
Are Cokin filters so good? I own one from Cokin filters. But i cant judge it cause its my first buy - 58mm cpl. I wish I had one of these nd filters but again its aint so easy to choose, besides i bought cpl for my fujifilm digital compact so i cannot afford long exposures without getting noise in 5 pics out of 8. Besides I have no idea how much is it, and are there screw-in nd filters. As far as i know there is no problems with glass thickness or vignetting, cause its 28mm wide angle
jundzis 1 year ago
Cokins is in the recommended ND glass filters category, so, yes. In other words, it has a good image quality, as long as it is glass (not resin). Cokins do offer circular (screw-in) and square (slide-in) glass filters as well.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
Is a Bower ND glass filter one of the not recommended?
dasavima 1 year ago
Yes, that is correct.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
@Lilkiwiguy87
I just purchased this one for now, until I come by enough money to buy filters from Heliopan, Cokin, or B+W. So I was just wondering... Is the Bower's series of filters completely mediocre, or decent?
dasavima 1 year ago
You got the answer from Cameron, heh.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
yeah I was rockin out while I was learning, thanks haha
ALSSurfProductions 1 year ago
3) Do you ever use a light meter to help tune readings on your subject and compare it to the camera reading with the filter installed? The difference in readings would give the level of compensation between what is there on the subject and what is being changed with the filter installed would it not? Thus you could avoid having to remove the filter for your shots as you move around with the filter installed?
Finally, working around ocean air any corrosion issues with fine filter threads?
meltdownman1 1 year ago
3: If you are asking us directly, no, we do not use a light meter. We use M Mode and get a good exposure reading before attaching a ND filter. Then we continue using same exposure from shot to shot by balancing it with different SS, F/#, and ISO.
Light meters will not help because the readings will be the same without a ND filter, requiring you to calculate the new exposure setting in the head. It's not necessary.
High quality glass filters' rings are made from brass, it will not get rusty.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
P.S. Science lesson for you. If you are wondering why brass will not get rusty.
Brass is made from two different kind of metals: copper and zinc.
Yes, copper is known for getting oxidized (aka rust-like green colored corrosion).
But Zinc is know for preventing corrosion.
So, copper and zinc becomes brass that is impossible for corrosion to take effect.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
@meltdownman1 I would like to point out that if the filter attachment is made up of Aluminium instead of Brass then the filter threads under usage might get fused with the lens's filter mount(if made up of Aluminium). As Aluminium tends to fuse with aluminium under change of temperature.
1986Chaitanya 1 year ago
2) The 5D Mark II is notorious for giving that yellow/golden glow when shooting video at night with city lights. Any suggestions as to whether or not a filter could correct this to either more natural colors or even add more creativity?
Thanks for a very informative concise form of info...love the effort put into it.
The Meltdownman
meltdownman1 1 year ago
2: We believe this glow effect is lens haze. Usually, it is caused by either shooting at the widest aperture, dirty glass filter, and / or dirty lens. Try stopping it down by a stop, clean the lens and / or filter then test it again. Another possibility is that you used a white balance that is too warm. Try using Tungsten then fine-tune the WB with cooler or warmer temperatures.
ND filters do not correct colors or get rid of hazing. It only allows slow SS, high F/#, and high ASA only.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
Kiwi:
Back again to pick your brain, New Canon 5D Mark II user
1) Any advice on using a filter to shoot pics say with their back to sunset like in your vid while using a flash for fill effects? I don't see this topic covered as a potential artistic creative effect with the flash photography.
meltdownman1 1 year ago
1: Our best advice? Unnecessary.
We're not Canon users so we're not entirely sure but we'll say it anyway.
If your 5DM2 can fire the flash at very high shutter speeds, go ahead and use it. Adjust the exposure (SS, F/#, and ISO) until you get the desired result. Then turn on the flash and do a couple of test shots at different flash value settings until you get the desired result.
If your 5DM2 does not support it, then yes, a ND filter will help (expect to use a higher flash power setting).
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
if you're an amateur and are looking to buy neutral density or polarized filters, look for the cokin p mounting, it's "cheaper" and more practical....
ps: im an amateur and i learned this to late....
AxLstyle 1 year ago
Why don't you do the honors to explain to the others how you find this filter holder system "practical"?
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
@Lilkiwiguy87 you clearly have more control with a filter system, then with a screw-in filter, plus, the screw-in filters are expensive, especially the ones above 58mm range.
nerxboy 1 year ago
lilki how about leefilters? will you recommend this filter lens?
quintano20 1 year ago
The answer awaits your urgent attention at 8:25.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
What is the reason that you don't recommend Hoya branded filters? Does that include their PRO-1D line of filters specifically made for digital as well?
I was thinking of purchasing the Hoya 77mm Pro-1D NDx8 filter.
morrod 1 year ago
Any brands, that we do not recommend, have coating painted on the front element. So, yes, any lineups coming from Hoya is one of them.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
Anyone here ever tried to cascade these filters to do direct Sun photography? What else can be used? I've tried using old floppy disc as a filter but obviously it's far from neutral...
Thx Jan
OK2BCK 1 year ago
It's not possible to take pictures of the sun in the middle of the day. If you manage to do so, the sun will be dark grey instead of a big orange ball of flames.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
@Lilkiwiguy87
Thanks for a quick reply. I guess what I'm trying to achieve is more like an astrophotography shot. I'd like to get sharp shot of the Sol regardless of color balance. I'd aim for detail rather than color.
If I use two 8 stop filters, do I get 16 stop or am I dreaming? Thanks!
OK2BCK 1 year ago
We're afraid there isn't a 8 or 16 stops ND filters, unless you stack them up but we wouldn't recommend doing that. 10 stops (ND 3.0), fast shutter speed, low aperture, and low ISO sensitivity will be able to capture an image of the sun. You would need to wear sunglasses behind the camera for your own safety.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
Excellent video. I'm surprised you didn't mention the 4x6 filters? I personally perfer them to the screw on type especially when your using a soft grad. What are your thought on resin versus glass?
Itchhhh 1 year ago
A lot of the brands that we recommended on the video make square filters as well but when it comes to ND's, screw-on or square filters won't make any noticeable difference.
Personally, we wouldn't bother using resin filters because we would have to babysit it like it's an actual infant because it is extremely easy to scratch. Glass is better choice over resin, the only drawback is glass are more expensive.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
Great info! I was wondering how i can fix some overexposed portions of my mid-afternoon outdoor exposures, now i know. Btw, where can you get one of these angry "ultraviolent" filters mentioned at 5:55 sounds scary hahaha ;-)
fastnoypi 1 year ago
*chuckles* Hah, sorry, it's a typo, it's ultraviolet.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
5 stars :D
MuhdRifhan 1 year ago
Which ND filter should I get first for general landscape photography (feathery skies, cottony waterfalls, still bodies of water)?
A 6 stop or 10 stop ND?
What about for graduated NDs? a 3 stop soft edge or hard edge?
housebum 1 year ago
For artsy landscapes, 10 stops ND (3.0) would be the best choice and try to get slow shutter speed down to 20s-30s at F/8.0 on DX (or F/16.0 if using FX or film).
Graduated ND filters are okay, not that great. You can try a circular polarizer but it is only effective on cloudless days. Soft edge GND filters offer better translation between normal and bright exposures without nasty line that is caused by hard edge GND filters.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
Thanks for the info.
Gatotsu2009 1 year ago