Why make the abalakov with a strand of webbing or cord, which you then tie in a loop, and not a loop, which you could nicely just clip in? It makes taking off a lot easier, though it takes a bit more effort to stuff the bent end of the loop through the holes. Well, I'm just a beginner, but I've tried it and it seems to works ok with 6 mm cord (could try thinner and dyneema webbing as well). Hard to say about strengths, but I'd expect that double cord stresses the ice less than a single cord.
Lets see cause a sewn sling that you are going to leave on rap costs about $12 and a chunk of webbing @1 at best. We don't build these ata anchors while climbing bit more as rap stations. Honestly I am not sure what you are getting at exactly.
@mikebarter387 Ok, I'm trying to solve the problem of how to lead climb ice with just one ice axe and two screws (and cord and a bunch of carabiners). Speed isn't so important, but can't leave dozens of cords in the ice.
Interesting. Yes of course this knot is also known by that. It is actually on the list of next videos.
You do know that on your way to all the classic peaks you have videoed there is nothing stopping by my dumpster and dropping off a tenner and a ham sandwhich. Alley by coyotes under the cover of teh old king Eddy across from the parkade. I most often take donations frpm 7 amtill 11 am. forge most the afternoon then 5:30 till 11 pm
This video really helped clear up a mystery for me. I told the guys in my local climbing shop that I wanted to buy an Abalakov ice anchor and they started laughing at me. I thought they were just rude, but now I think I understand.
Hey thanks for taking the time Mike! I have done it a few time in the Italian alps but only about -5C. I can see the how it could all get fused together.
The reason being is that you would only get away with that 7 out of 10 times. Wet ropes and cold ice attract then they become one and well you are fucked. Often the ropes get we and the ice can be dry and cold. It can and has been done but I wouldn't make a habit of it or even recommend it. Good of you to think about it though.
Super Sketchy though I dont doubt it works xD good vid
alwood1993 1 month ago
Thanks for an informative video
stcroixsurfer 1 year ago
Why make the abalakov with a strand of webbing or cord, which you then tie in a loop, and not a loop, which you could nicely just clip in? It makes taking off a lot easier, though it takes a bit more effort to stuff the bent end of the loop through the holes. Well, I'm just a beginner, but I've tried it and it seems to works ok with 6 mm cord (could try thinner and dyneema webbing as well). Hard to say about strengths, but I'd expect that double cord stresses the ice less than a single cord.
magi1969 1 year ago
@magi1969
Lets see cause a sewn sling that you are going to leave on rap costs about $12 and a chunk of webbing @1 at best. We don't build these ata anchors while climbing bit more as rap stations. Honestly I am not sure what you are getting at exactly.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
@mikebarter387 Ok, I'm trying to solve the problem of how to lead climb ice with just one ice axe and two screws (and cord and a bunch of carabiners). Speed isn't so important, but can't leave dozens of cords in the ice.
magi1969 1 year ago
@magi1969 I get it, It's April Fools Day. My condolences to your family in advance, your what we call a dead man walking.
mikebarter387 1 year ago
Ice stress is not a issue. The cord and webbing will break long before the ice fails on even a half/ass abalakov
mikebarter387 1 year ago
in new study's they are finding that you should angle your ice screw up not down to reduce the leaver on the ice.
darkgift06 2 years ago
The tape knot was being used in this video, also known as the "water knot".
another great video!
CalgaryAlpineStyle 2 years ago
Interesting. Yes of course this knot is also known by that. It is actually on the list of next videos.
You do know that on your way to all the classic peaks you have videoed there is nothing stopping by my dumpster and dropping off a tenner and a ham sandwhich. Alley by coyotes under the cover of teh old king Eddy across from the parkade. I most often take donations frpm 7 amtill 11 am. forge most the afternoon then 5:30 till 11 pm
mikebarter387 2 years ago
I'll be doing Cascade and perhaps Mt Cory soon, so myself and my friend will stop by, will find you, Mike, thanks for the invitation.
Looking forward for your next video.
CalgaryAlpineStyle 2 years ago
Do you prefer the one inch webbing over 6 or 7 mm cord? thanks for the video
kanusport 2 years ago
This video really helped clear up a mystery for me. I told the guys in my local climbing shop that I wanted to buy an Abalakov ice anchor and they started laughing at me. I thought they were just rude, but now I think I understand.
acr08807 2 years ago 2
Awsome Mike! I am starting my Ice technics and this is going to be an excellent tool!
enriqueplanas 3 years ago
Hey thanks for taking the time Mike! I have done it a few time in the Italian alps but only about -5C. I can see the how it could all get fused together.
PerranIceMan 3 years ago
@PerranIceMan Is their no chance the rope can make friction in the holes?. In the same way as locking off a ATC.
ceebo100 11 months ago
Hey Mike. Why not just thread the rap rope through the holes and not use any webbing? One less thing to fail, cheaper and no litter.
PerranIceMan 3 years ago
The reason being is that you would only get away with that 7 out of 10 times. Wet ropes and cold ice attract then they become one and well you are fucked. Often the ropes get we and the ice can be dry and cold. It can and has been done but I wouldn't make a habit of it or even recommend it. Good of you to think about it though.
mikebarter387 3 years ago