How to Reseat / Lap Valves (Basic Valve Job)

[Mikej1592]

Im a lazy type, if I ever lap my own vavles I'd probably try to clamp it in a cordless drill. a cordless would have less torq than a plug in version and I would have less risk of damage I imagine. would probably put some tape on the stem also, eah, the odds of me doing it at all are pretty slim right now anyway but its fun to imagine having the time to do it. :-)

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@Mikej1592 hahahaha i hear ya haha. oh OHV motors you can chuck up the valve stem in a drill, while the valve is in the head, alot of people do that, especially on bigger engines like V8's, saves time, but i don't think it does quite as good, i did it one time on a OHV briggs, and it just didn't feel right to me haha i'm sure you could find a way to get a suction cup in a drill and do the same for a flathead engine too haha thanks for watching!

[20rich02]

Well if anyones goin to use this vid for learning purposes then go on and do that `cause the guy does know what he´s doin`. His advise and instructions are advisable to others. Have no fear you can deal with your valves here. Titanium valves are used in modified engines or newer cars that have alot of horses, Valves as such are usually used for rpms over 8000rpm thats why they´re also light weight. And yes grinding them is NOT a good idea at all. 6 valves would run about 800-900 bucks.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@20rich02 thanks! thanks for watching!

[FuzzyMcButterWink]

Never knew how to do a valve job and I been twisting wrenches for 20+ yrs. I do now though. Good Vid Dude!

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@FuzzyMcButterWink i hear ya, glad my video helped! thanks!! and thanks for watching!

[TheKillgore521]

!!! BEWARE !!!

Do not do this with titanium valves or you will destroy them !!!

new valves are 100$ each so think before you use this method.

IT'S A GREAT METHOD for stainless valves sure it is.

But only for minor adjustments. Best is to get em recut.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@TheKillgore521 thanks for the tip, i've never done anything with titanium valves before thanks for watching

[TheKillgore521]

@fnaguitarplayer9 no problemo :D I've recently destroyed mine like this so i'd better caution all the people and think before they go to work. Repair costs are a bitch...

[1972FordF150]

@TheKillgore521 What the hell are titanium valves?

[dasdboot]

@fnaguitarplayer9 in the nutshell he said that he was surprised by the wooden gadget, ignore him, great video!

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@dasdboot oh hahaha thanks, and thanks for watching!

[krazyjuicedan]

great vid cheers mate. 

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@krazyjuicedan thanks! thanks for watching!

[arturomartinez1983]

what grit # compound should you use on a valve job?does da compound give diffrent results on diffrent grit #?

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@arturomartinez1983 a finer grit will give a better finish, rougher grit is good if you have bad pits. Usually what is done is a rougher is used first (if necessary) then a finer to finish it off, like sanding. Mine is 34A grit which is a universal grit, its Permatex brand, i've never had any problems with it, seats/valves come out looking new. I'd recommend what i use (34A) hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!

[destro513]

I also learned in class that you should lift and smack the valve down on the seat and rotate it a good bit when doing this.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@destro513 yeah that is true, i forgot to mention that in the video that you should pick it up now and then. it helps to keep the compound around the surface evenly. thanks for watching!

[pyrophilster]

great video

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@pyrophilster thanks! thanks for watching

[bluekron77]

@fnaguitarplayer9 do you had a vid on how to fix a flooded engine, I got a used gokart, and while having the engine off to get frame fixed, my little boys tipped the engine sideways on the floor. I didn't notice till hours later... any help.. thanks

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@bluekron77 no i don't sorry. but what you ahve to do is first pull the spark plug crank it over get all the excess gas out of the cylinder, then if you want (don't have to) you can put some wd40 or a little bit of motor oil down through the spark plug hole, so in case the gas washed the oil off the walls you won't have metal on metal on start up, then do a oil a change, because when one gets flooded, gas runs past the rings into the crankcase. Hope this helps. thanks for watching!

[bluekron77]

@fnaguitarplayer9 awesome, that worked! Thanks for the tip...

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@bluekron77 glad to help, no problem!

[kbj76]

Thanks! This video was very helpful.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@kbj76 glad to help. Thanks for watching!

[parris4iv]

Wow! You're actually talking during your instructional ! Ya know, many of the youtubers, on this particular subject, just show an obscure video of themselves performing an action with absolutely no commentary as to WTF we are looking at. So, hats off to your clear and concise explanations.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@parris4iv hahaha yeah i know what your talking about, its kind of pointless to do a video if you don't explain, unless its a "around the shop" kind of video that just shows whats going on. haha Thanks! really appreciate it! Thanks for watching!

[TheFace3701]

Thanks for making this video. I need to do this to a car engine and I only had an idea on how to do it. It doesn't look too difficult and it's worth a shot to save an engine. Thanks again.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@TheFace3701 not a problem! yeah its pretty simple. good luck on your project. No problem, thank you for watching my video!

[123975123975123975]

hi,

your video"s are very clear,

i am looking to watch a video on, a briggs and stratton 3.5hp classic or similar engine, strip down and rebuild, my intention is to replace my piston rings.

i have watched your valve reseating video.

i know about the carb and diapram,

but would be good to watch a full engine strip down and rebuild, of a clasic or say sprint.

could you help me, or put me in the right direction,

all the best

Paul

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@123975123975123975 thanks. I sent you a message.

[griffen5552010]

Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I got a 5.5 hp briggs, and straton lawn mower with a bent crankshaft. Would a crankshaft from a 6 hp murray lawn mower fit in there? I am asking because it would be an online purchase.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@griffen5552010 thanks. no problem. haha ehhhh. i can't tell you for sure. i know engines like the 3 horse and 3.5 horse and 12 and 12.5 are all the same, i don't know about the 5.5 and 6. If the model is the same (first 1-2 digits of the model is the same then it "should" work. I can't say for sure. But if your getting a good deal on the crankshaft, i'd reccomend going ahead and getting it, then even if it don't work, you might need it for another engine eventually. thanks for watching!

[billyrowe0064]

Briggs Straton, right? Same engine as my racing go kart. I rebuilt it a while ago, without any experience and it worked.

[billyrowe0064]

@billyrowe0064 Ah, okay - could be a lawn mower engine. Looks too small.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@billyrowe0064 Yes it is a Briggs and Stratton, its a 5 horse (model 13), this came off a mini bike, but they are very popular on go karts and mini bikes. They are also found on tillers. They are some of the best engines ever made, any of the briggs flathead engines. thanks for watching

[wc4pwned]

looked like you had a bit of wobble there with the valve stem... new guides?

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@wc4pwned yes there is alot of play in these valve guides, when i rebuild this engine i do plan to install new guides. they tend to wear out alot on these. thanks for watching!

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@wc4pwned yes there is alot of play in these valve guides, when i rebuild this engine i do plan to install new guides. they tend to wear out alot on these. thanks for watching!

[1poorbaby]

beautiful accent

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1poorbaby thanks haha 

[350oldschool]

Thanks -Dude.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@350oldschool no problem. thanks for watching

[frank48164]

I'm rebuilding a Tecumseh HS40 on my 72 rupp roadster 2 Minibike. I never knew it was so easy to lap the valves. KUDOS. I have some pretty heavy carbon build up. The top is off and sitting the parts cleaner. Thanks again.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@frank48164 i hear ya. i'm not a big fan of tecumseh engines, but they are good engines when they are running good. i always have carburetor trouble with them. i prefer briggs over any brand. yeah its pretty simple, but the hardest part is setting valve clearance on flathead engines, OHV is no problem. They tend to build up carbon, you should see a 3 horse i was working a month ago, it had a quarter inch of carbon in it haha no problem, thanks for watching!

[SirSmighty]

Very good info, i didn't have a clue how to do this before watching this. i have a dirt bike that has low compression and i am thinking it needs new valves, would it be as simple as this?

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@SirSmighty thank you. it is possible, can't say until its tore apart, it may have a burnt valve, and if it burns oil too, then it needs new rings (rebuild) but yeah, take a look at the valves, might just need reseated. if its overhead valve (OHV) then check valve clearances, it can cause that to if the they are set to tight and the valves aren't closing all the way. or might be a bad compression release. list goes on haha thanks for watching

[SirSmighty]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Well, i tore the bike down today and the valves definitely have problems because i sprayed ether around them and the ether came out of the intake. So i am thinking for sure a warp valve so i am just going to buy new valves and use your reseat method. Also the piston was chipped at the bottom so i am also thinking whoever owned the bike before ran it with low oil causing heat. a new topend build for my bike is $125 counting gaskets, piston, piston pin/clips, rings, valves.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@SirSmighty oh yeah. that don't sound to good. haha its possible, new valves might be the best solution, and yeah don't forget to seat them, alot of peoople think you don't have to reseat new valves, it makes for a perfect seal. my advice would do a complete rebuild, if you got the extra money, thats not to much to spend really though.

[SirSmighty]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Yeah i will most def reseat them, Where can anyone buy those valve tools you use? and yeah i may just spend a little extra more and get everything to do a complete top end rebuild.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@SirSmighty yeah. i bought mine at harbor freight, but you can buy them just about anywhere like advance, napa or autozone. yeah might be the best thing to do, especially with the chipped piston.

[SirSmighty]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Ok that sounds good i may do a video reply using your method. Thanks alot for your time. 

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@SirSmighty yeah feel free to post a video response. no problem, glad to help. good luck on your project! - Frank

[Stratau]

thanks for posting

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@Stratau no problem. thanks for watching

[ningaslayer420]

right on right on man

now i shall lap my valves

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@ningaslayer420 thanks. good luck and have fun, i love reseating valves haha. thanks for watching

[rickjm1001]

Hi Nice video's.

Can you make one on removing the crank, bearings, piston and rings then reinstall with new one or maybe show your rebuild since it's already apart?

Thanks!

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@rickjm1001 thanks. i can't put this motor back together yet, the block needs bored out and sleeved. But if you want to see a teardown and rebuild of a 12.5 horse flathead, look through my latest videos i did a 4 part series with a lot of detail on removing crank and replacing rings. I will do more on this engine later on though, just cost to much money to have sleeved. thanks for watching, and check out the other briggs videos i have on here.

[kevykev38]

Seams like the valve fits kinda sloppy in the valve guide?

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@kevykev38 yes it does. It really needs to valve guide bushings installed. And i will have it done before i do anything with this motor.

[kevykev38]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Nice work man. I enjoy the videos. Keep em coming. I have to do my valves on my 1997 F150 4.6L Triton. Your helping tons and tons of people with your vids.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@kevykev38 thank you very much, glad you like them! i just wish i could make more videos faster, there will be alot more to come! thanks again!

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@cameramonkey2 yepp. i had to do that on a 12.5HP i just got through rebuilding last week, look at my latest videos. on this engine here i will probably have to do that as well. This engine is still tore down haha thanks for watching.

[seasonedtoker]

that's not the way you test a valve for play. the valve has to be against the seat, then check the play. anyway, as you said, this one clearly needs a bushing

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@seasonedtoker good point. But let me ask you this, if you have the valve in the seat, aint it harder to check it like that because the seat would keep the valve from rocking back and forth? (not arguing with you)

[workensmart]

Don't you love how the chinese B&S L head engines never have any cross hatching in the cylinder bore. They look like crap even when they are new. The piston rings never seat the right way, I think thats why these engines develop piston slap so early. The older quantum engines from the late 80's early 90's ran so much better.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@workensmart yeah that probably is what causes it. i haven't worked on many newer engines, my newest engine is a 97 12.5 horse, and it needs rebuilt haha check out my next to latest video to see it running. i'm still mad at briggs for not making 12 horse flatheads anymore, and i hate how they went with plastic flywheel covers on all the new engines. haha i'd pay a extra 100 bucks if i could get a metal flywheel cover LOL thanks for subscribing by the way! and thanks for watching!

[workensmart]

@fnaguitarplayer9 no problem you have allot of cool video's. B&S stopped making the L head engines because of emissions (so did Kohler, Kawasaki, Honda, ex). The EPA is what made them stop. I like the older L heads they ran great. Even the old school kohler magnum's and k series engines were bullet proof. I still get some old Troy built Horse tillers that come in just for tune ups with the Magnum engines.

[workensmart]

@fnaguitarplayer9 B&S and all the other companies make there engines cheap because it's just more cost effective to throw a new enigne on the machine and get it back out into the feild. The cost of parts labor and down time is not worth it to the customer. Besides most people just beat the shit out of there machines anyway so there is no point. Its just going to wind up as junk no matter how well you make a machine or and engine.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@workensmart thanks i really appreciate it, i got a ton more to make! yeah i know all about the emissions, whats the point? its not like they can "confiscate" all of our old flatheads haha you still see l heads on some pushmowes, not many though. thats why i try to get every flathead i can, i'm running out of room to store my engines in haha thats why i garage keep my mowers, my grass cutter is a 70's montgomery ward, bought new and garage kept since then, still looks new, no rust or ....

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@fnaguitarplayer9 anything on it. The only thing i did to was change engines, it had a 12 horse ohv tecumseh on it, i put a 12 horse briggs flathead on it haha i garage keep everything i own, when i work on a older mower and see all the rust, i always think what shape it would be in if it was garage kept. yeah it costs more to rebuild a engine then it does to get a new one, might as well say haha thanks again for saying i have good videos, really appreciate it

[1972FordF150]

@workensmart There Chinese blocks ? I thought they were made in Mexico.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 not sure myself, from what i gather there also made in Thailand. i don't know if all there blocks are made there or not. Like i said in another comment, i hate the fact they quit making 12 horse flatheads, those engines are so reliable!

[1972FordF150]

@fnaguitarplayer9 I heard that they have a assembly plant in China for other parts of the world like over there, but the engine blocks are made in Mexico from what I heard, and assembled in Wisconsin. And yeah I have a 12 HP I/C Briggs and I just started it for the first time in 4 days and it started as fast as I could turn the key WITH NO CHOKE. Those are some damn good engines I wish they still made them.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 that makes sense. I knew they were assembled in Wisconsin, i'd love to work in the factory building motors. But i don't want to leave wv haha. yeah i got 2 of those, and 2 12.5's. They are great engines, built to last and perform. before to long its gonna be hard to get parts for them too. then all parts will have to be machined. haha

[1972FordF150]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Yeah, I'd like to assemble these cheap 3.5's and do it right and then get yelled at by the fuckers who are the boss of these morons that put these things together the wrong way most of the time. And I hope my 12 HP never breaks down and if it will it's most likely carb problems lol. Mine was made 10-13-1988

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 yeah it would be a fun job. yeah haha, i'd be boring out the aluminum bore blocks and pressing cast iron sleeves haha one of mine is a 89 and the other is a 91. the only difference is one has a chrome metal air filter/breather cover and the other one is black plastic. i can't remember what my red 12.5 is (btw i'm gonna be making a complete rebuild video on it in a few weeks hopefully) and my other 12.5 power built is a 97, i got a video of it running. can't beat em!

[1972FordF150]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Haha nice, I noticed the older aluminum bore engines have hone marks in them. So you could just hone them out lol I have a 3.5 HP aluminum bore with over 1 K hours on it and the internals are still like brand new. Hone marks are still there from factory and everything. They will never make an engine that will last like that again. Not a score in the bore or anything. My dad just about shit his pants when we took it apart after he ran it for 30 years.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 yeah haha wow thats very good, them old 3.5 were built to last. and they put out plenty of power, we got one that is prob older than that, and it don't smoke or anything, never had it apart though. yeah your right, they won't. Its a shame they started going for quantity instead of quality. I also can't stand the new riding mower engine with plastic flywheel shrouds. I dont mind plastic flywheel fins, because at least if one gets broke its a bolt on replacement.

[1972FordF150]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Yeah my dad bought it new in 1977. Still runs the same as it did when it was new, but the carb got a little messed up some how, not sure why but yeah I'm alright with plastic flywheel fins but what the hell are they thinking when they put plastic as the cover, I'm never buying a new Briggs ever again unless it's a 20 year old plus engine off Ebay.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 carburetor and points/condenser are about the only problems they have. Thats exactly how i am, if i was going to buy a new mower i'd be willing to pay extra for a metal cover, and even more to get a 12 horse flathead haha i try to buy every old engine i can get.

[1972FordF150]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Yep, I think if I just put another carb diaphragm in it, then it will be just like it used to be. I wish I had some money I wanna buy like 10 old Briggs engines and restore them haha.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 yeah thats probably all it needs. i know what ya mean. i got about 5 motors i want to rebuild, it costs so much to do it. i got several that needs bored out, and few that needs sleeved.

[1972FordF150]

@fnaguitarplayer9 Probably, it starts on the first pull every time and runs great with the priming trick but it never needed the trick before to start on the first pull, before it used to be just walk up to it and pull the rope once. And how does that sleeving thing work ? do you buy a sleeve and press it in or what ?

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 yeah i'd say it just needs a new diaphragm. well the block has to be bored out, then the block is heated (makes it easier) with a oxy acetylene torch or baked in a oven for a while then the sleeve is pressed in. I've never done it myself but i hope to get into machining so i can bore these motors out myself and sleeve them.

[1972FordF150]

@fnaguitarplayer9 It sounds like a good project lol, I can't seem to find any videos on Youtube that shows how it's done.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 yeah it'l be fun haha there was some on here, but i can't find them now. oh well. there are videos that show the boring process but not sleeve pressing.

[1972FordF150]

@fnaguitarplayer9 I'm gonna look for the boring process lol

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@1972FordF150 ok haha

[555engineer]

This was very helpful. Many thanks for taking the time.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@555engineer no problem. glad to help. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[michaelovitch]

Will you port the head ?

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@michaelovitch I do plan to do the intake and exhaust ports, and grind the head and block so it gets better flow. I'm currently working on another briggs just like this one, check out my other video: briggs restoration project. and it is going to have all kinds of modifications done to it to get the most out of it i can. thanks for watching!

[blissderek]

that's cool thanks alot

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@blissderek no problem. thanks for watching

[MrBeny179]

Thank you for this video,,,

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@MrBeny179 your welcome. thanks for watching

[the5445]

Hey, could you tell me what tool/adapter you use to turn the engine over with your drill. What adapter did you buy that alowes the drill to be compatible with a 1/2 drive? I gota old brigs 5.25hp engine that has a blown up (literaly) ratcheting system from too much redlinen, and I got no way of pull startin her. Thanks

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@the5445 hi. I will send a pm, so i can post links...

[wethepeople0001]

again very nice video, you explain everything so well great job man!!!

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@wethepeople0001 thank you very much. there will be alot more how to videos this spring/summer. thanks for watching!

[KMpuggy]

cheers for this

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@KMpuggy thanks for watching!! 

[MrRmh3481]

Enjoyed the vid. Ive got an old Sears snowblower (1962) with a tecumseh engine that Im going to rebuild this summer. Thanks! 

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@MrRmh3481 thanks for watchin! i hear ya. good luck with your project, i've got about 5 engines to rebuild this summer haha your welcome!

[PGXI]

nice video...i have a 9 hp tecumseh snow king i plan on cleaning up the valves, i`am getting a little backfireing....now so thanks for the help

do you always use a new head gasket when reinstaling.?

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@PGXI it's best to, they usually fall apart, i always put a new gasket on unless the old one looks ok, but i do recommend all new gaskets. thanks for watching/commenting

[yootamooga]

Thank you for video. A nice simple explanation is always useful.

[fnaguitarplayer9]

@yootamooga your welcome. thanks for watchin!