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From: jeffersononetwo
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  • can u buy a fixed bridge setup to put o na strat from fender?

  • You say not to adjust the bottom of the saddle more than 4/32 away from the body. That does not allow for much pitch change when you pull back the bar. I like to have much more pitch variation than that, a la Jeff Beck's setup. What things would you need to compensate for a more extreme float in a setup like that?

  • First, thanks for the free tutorial. Second, I don't get what mechanically is going on with the tremolo block when you adjust any of the 6 screws on the face of the bridge. The only way I know to make my bridge float or sit is with the two screws in the cavity on the back that you describe @2:33 . Can you explain in more detail the function of these 6 screws on the face?

  • @eigenbroetler321 ... I'll try: on the outer edge of the plate (by screws 1 & 6) there is a slight beveled edge so that using the tremolo bar the bridge plate will 'roll' - imagine if it were not machined and just squared and sharp. Loosening the two outer screws allows the bridge to 'roll' easier - tighten all the way down it will still move but not as easy & might even damage the surface finish some. Really not sure why the other screws are there except stability maybe.

  • @jeffersononetwo Thanks for the quick reply. I like my bridge to sit on the body, not float, but I like to be able to dive bomb. Do I still need the 2,3,4,&5 screws to be 2/32nds loosened?

  • @eigenbroetler321 No problem! Yes,starting from a point where the bridge is flat & all six screws tightened down, you work with the six screws & tremolo spring. All six screws go to 2/32 inch while you have the spring tension so that the bridge is flush. At that point, you would then tighten the two outside screws down flush (not over-tighten) and just leave the others at 2/32 inch.

  • @jeffersononetwo And by dive bomb, I just mean have some slack to vibrato and do small dives. I'm not trying to do Van Halen stuff.

  • @eigenbroetler321 Yep, yep ... same here -- too many really overdo it sometimes - hah.

  • I just have a question regarding Vintage bridge on Strat..if you could help me that would be nice :)

    Currently I`m using a Squier Stratocaster Classic Vibe 60`s which is kinda Chinese version of Vintage Strat :) I`m thinking about replacing it`s Vintage look-like Bridge with Original Vintage Stratocaster 62`s Bridge ! Will I exprience any problems doing it...is it possible ? I mean the thing I`m afraid of is the bridge cavity ..will it fits or is narrower than original Strat ?

  • @Bartzepfloyd Thanks for the question ... some of the Squires are pretty nice - I have a MIM Strat that I LOVE! I can't say for certain, but I think it would fit -- one way to find out would be to take the bridge off of the Squire the next time you change strings and take some measurements :)

  • 2/32s? lol, that's 1/16". 4/32s? 1/8".

  • I'm rocking five springs right now because I couldn't get my bridge to sit down, it's kinda ridiculous

  • @Mpapic Wow, that sure is! It's a combination of things but you shouldn't need that many - lots of string tension going on ... action, saddle height, tuning - hard to say any one specific but I'm sure you could go to three & tighten screws a little more along with a good setup again.

  • @jeffersononetwo Believe me, I tried with three. The bridge just wouldn't sit on the body, I play with really heavy strings though and don't use the tremolo arm ever

  • @Mpapic its the screws he is messing with here, I 100% know what your talking about but when properly set it will lay flat with 3 springs I promise you 100% no lie, Its funky but both screws if using a 2 screw bridge or setup like this and get the 2 outside screws proper and do the middle as he has done, either way as I was saying its funky both outside ones have to be set pretty damn perfect sometimes, I can watch on one of mine if I touch either one it raises in the back but proper its perfect

  • @jeffersononetwo i have a problem when i use the tremolo the fender gets out of tune and i dont know what to do please help me

  • @punk434 ... most guitars will go slightly sharp or flat on a few strings after a use. Except for a 'brute', they are not really meant to go nutz with -- just gently dives or flutters -- otherwise, there is likely to be something out just a bit. Use some graphite solution at the nut & saddles - get at a guitar store or online - once you dive & release try to pul back just a bit too - it should rest back but it helps sometimes ... could need lube under strings on saddles (graphite,light oil,)

  • I cant make me bridge sit flat to the body. No matter how tight or loose the screws that control the springs in the back are it still floats really high.

  • what happens if my fender has 2 springs?

  • @hecto95 Two strings is okay but usually there are three. As long as you can get enough spring tension to get the bridge to sit down you are in good shape.  If not, or if you have to turn the tremolo spring screws in too far, just buy one more from the local guitar shop.

  • Thanks for these "how to" vids, they've been really helpful! Quick question: when tightening down the bridge to the body so it isn't floating how tight should I go? Tight enough till it can't be pulled "up" by the whammy bar at all? I've got the screws pretty tight in the back of the guitar but I can still raise the pitch up slightly by pulling up on the whammy bar. Also, when I ever I use the whammy bar, up or down, the G and B springs especially go out of tune - raising in pitch? Thanks!

  • @kingv911 You just want the bridge to sit on the surface - not slammed too hard, but just to the point of resting on it. You should still easily be able to use the tremolo. As for the strings, you may take a look at the nut and apply some graphite, nut-sauce, chap-stick, or something along those lines and see if that will help.

  • When you measure 2/32nds, or 1/16th of an inch away from the bridge plate, do you measure the distance from the bridge plate to the bottom of the screw or to the very top of the screw?

  • @puppetmetal ... I was measuring to the bottom of the screw - sorry I should have made that more clear.

  • why the fuck do americans say "4/32nds of an inch" instead of just 1/8th of an inch???

  • @Lachy101 its because that ruler he uses is more precise, it measures in 32nds and not 8ths

  • @infectionsman yea man and is the cup 2 quarters full or 2 quarters empty?

  • @Lachy101 the ruler measures in 32nds. Why the fuck do people from wherever it is you are from not think before they ask such dumb fucking questions?

  • @kingv911 Cool down guys. However as an engineer, I have to point out that any decent ruler will have 32nds on it but the fact remains that you're supposed to use the lowest form of termination. ie: 2 x eighths should be stated as 1 quarter. 2 x sixteenths is 1 eighth and 4 x 32nds SHOULD be 1 eighth also. Is this just the old story of two nations divided by a common language? Take it easy lads, we're all on here for the same reason aren't we? somebody is trying to help us - FOR FREE - enjoy

  • so is it recommended to keep the strings on while you do this?

  • Hello, very interesting video, what is the name of that machine you are using? thanks

  • I've been having a ton of problems with the tremolo on my MIM strat. Every time I use it, it goes badly out of tune. I've messed with the claw, different spring combinations, lubricated the nut, had it floating and flat against the body, and nothing seems to work. I just recently bought a super vee bladerunner tremolo for it, and I'm still having all of the same problems. What could I possibly be overlooking? Please help! Thanks :)

  • @dabuttawhip Sounds like a rough time! You didn't mention stretching new strings or truss-rod adjustments ... I assume you have check the neck? Have you tried a different brand of strings? The trem you got is not a double-locking so if you do some extreme dives you could still have issues. I check tuning out of habit after a couple of songs or something like every 10 mins. Just a couple of stings are slightly off after playing 10 mins, I wouldn't worry too much - retune. Use minor vibrato.

  • Thanks these vids are very helpful.I want to change the whole tremolo bridge which do you recommend?Also 3 or 5 springs in the back?Thanks again

  • @ribs389 I've had good luck with 3 springs ... I've put tubing (of the same diameter as the springs) inside each of the 3 to make the quiet - just thought I'd mention that. Unless you plan on doing some wood-working and cutting on your guitar I would stick with the same style & purchase from Callaham parts on the internet. Spacing is different on American & MIM so you def need to keep that in mind.

  • Thanks for posting this, it makes things a lot easier to understand.

  • Thank you for this video , it cleared up some questions for me.

  • great video series. Now do you have any special tricks for a blocked bridge fender. How tight should the springs be on the back.

  • @CJLoveall74 Well, most Fenders don't have a cavity routed out for a LFR type bridge ... the synchronized trmolo bridge can 'float' just a bit (as I mentioned) but it is kind of 'blocked' when it's resting on the body - like I do mine. So, no special tricks for that: tune up & adjust the springs until the bridge raises/lowers just until it touches the body.

  • @jeffersononetwo hey jeff if the stratocaster does come as a floating bridge, would you just tighten down the claws in the back all the way? also for the tremelo bar how can you make it to where it's not as tight (like locked in place) and not as lose? thanks

  • @guitarfreak651 Many of the do come raised up a bit these days. To fix that, you are right - loosen the string tension and just adjust the claw until when you do get tuned up that the bridge just barely touches the body (you want it rigid, but not slammed too hard - for possible cosmetic reasons). A spring that goes inside of the trem-arm hole - most ppl have lost it - American & MIM are not always the same either - it tightens good but is low - keep working it or add teflon tape to threads

  • .... and 4/32 inches is even weirder. That would just be 1/8 inch. Sorry to talk trash... the way your saying it is maybe a simpler way because you just have to work in 1/32nd inches.

  • 2/32 is a more complicated way of saying 1/16. Just like you'd never say 2/4.... or 2/anything in the american system.... 2/4... would be 1/2 inch.

  • Why bother measuring in inches? The number is way too small for it to be relevant. I suggest using mm next time, to avoid confusion for someone who is not using the imperial system.

  • 0:55 i didnt understand the distance

  • @sagyas ... 2/32in = 0.0625in = 1.59mm

  • @jeffersononetwo. I hate pointing out the obvious but why work in 32nds??? 2/32in is 1/16th!! 4/32in is 1/8th!! Why complicate things - always reduce things to their lowest common denominator, it makes life a lot easier!

  • @ScrumptiousStrat Yes, I know ... sorry. The reason? Because I am on the Imperial system ... because Fender, America, uses these units of measure - we have not converted to the Metric or SI system.

  • @jeffersononetwo. Don't apologise, it was just a fairly obvious comment to make - not a criticism!

  • @sagyas also 2/32=1/16 just the first line on a regular 6in ruler

  • @guitarfreak651 huh thx

  • Please Help

    I have an Eric Clapton strat and I took the block out and followed you directions to a tee

    When I was loosening the 6 strings I saw 3 large screws almost an inch behind the 6 front screws on the plate. When I lift the tremolo bar not much happens even after loosening the claw screws quite alot . Do I have to loosen the 3 large screws? Help

  • @Catshatube It sounds like you are talking about the three screws that connect to the sustain block ... unless you are replacing the bridge you don't need to mess with this.

  • no its supposed to sit án 8th of an inch from the body when just resting and yoou are sopposed to pull the bar back and then unscrew them to a 16th of an inch then tighten the oouter screws down only on the outside it says right in the setup guide on fender.com

  • can you divebomb?

  • @slaytallidetherafold Absolutely ... the base plate is flat and has square edges in the rear, but the front (under the screws) is beveled -- so the bridge plate has a slight angle to tilt forward on. When you dive it just rolls up on the bevels ... I also put some flexible Tygon tubing into each of the springs ... no more squeaky springs!

  • DUDE, nice pickup combo, i dont know which ones they are, and im not into singles, but they look wicked together

  • @jetlag51 Thanks bro! The middle is original Fender single-coil but the bridge & neck pickups are both Seymour Duncan humbuckers.

  • @jeffersononetwo Nice combo, very nice

  • hey, plz help me....

    i hav same guitar as urs..m going to buy tremolo arm...

    i can see 5mm and 6mm arm..

    which size do i need for dat guitar???

    thanks

  • Hey, I'm trying to get my bridge to be flush, is it normal for the two screws attached to the bear claw to be very hard to turn?

  • @Hikki4Life It is not abnormal ... it is pretty common for them to be very tight. Be sure your screw-driver won't strip the heads!!!

  • QUESTION!!!!!! I really fucked up my bridge by taking it apart!! How do i put it back together? Everything is apart! Please make a video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Great video thanks! I have a cheap strat copy. It has a trem but there isn't any spring in the hole. How can I get the arm to stay in where I want it, and still be able to move it out of the way too (for songs that don't need it) ?

  • @73849309378 You mean for the tremolo arm (whammy bar)? There is a little spring that goes in that can fall out -- most do :( Mine has long since fallen out and dissapeared. I just keep spinning until it tightens down but mine doesn't really get in the way - my springs are noisy (I got a fix for it tho) so i don't keep the bar on there much. you can order a spring through your local shop or from online stores.

  • @jeffersononetwo Yes that's what I meant. Okay thanks. I just thought there might be a quick "home remedy" tip out there in youtube land.

  • Hey jeff Ive been playing acoustic for around 3 years and now I wanna step it up to electric and Im gonna get a fender mexican strat in 6 months and Ive been listening to different types of ways to set up a strat for almost a year, and the only part I dont understand is at 1:22, like are you talking about the 2 screws or adjusting all 3 strings?

  • @guitarfreak651 Hey Bro! Thanks for the question, and congrats on getting your new guitar soon! Up in the MORE INFO section of this video there is a link to a Setup Procedure I've written that might help you some -- Section 3.0. That, along with this video, may help - but it would be better once you had the Strat to see what I'm talking about. The 3 SPRINGS are located on the back under a plate ... I don't talk much about them in the Procedure, but the video does - adjust evenly as needed.

  • @jeffersononetwo ok man thanks like ive been playing my mates 5 year old squier strat like the screws to set up the inontation are rusted out, the saddle for the high e string is broken and its all outta wack lol but thanks for the info

  • so when i want the bridge to sit on the body do i unscrew or screw in the claw?

  • @jefferdc ... you would need to screw it in a little tighter to add more pulling force on the bridge. I would recommend just enough to get it flat - try to keep a string-to-spring balance if possible.

  • 4 30 seconds??? wtf? can anyone translate the measerments to metric system>?? plz

  • @zk1mike Sure dude ... I see you are from the Netherlands - you guys use the Metric system but the United States does not (one of the few in the world who do not). This is a fraction: 4/32 of an inch and equates to 0.125 thousandths of an inch for decimal ... for you, that would be 3.175mm. 3.2mm would suffice - or just over 3mm.

  • @jeffersononetwo thank you ^^ this will help me alot, I'm repainting my strat =P It was black and its gonna be metallic green xD

  • Look on the Guitar Fetish site for a Wilkenson type bridge or...? I bought some stainless saddles for my Jagmaster for 12 bucks. My MIM strat came with Graph Tech string savers and nut.

  • Good evening. thanks for the great video! I have a question about the tremolo arm/bridge plate. How much pressure should the tremolo arm need to lift the bridge? I am working with a new squire bullet, the bridge is not lifting, or moving using light pressure on the arm.

  • @csgilmer no problem :) The way most work is an act of balancing the string tension to the spring tension that opposes -- sounds like your springs are just a bit tighter. Mine are too, actually ... but the net effect would be near zero if balanced. Then it would be easier to move, but also might compromise just a bit on tuning stability. Play with the springs and tuning and see if you can dial it in :)

  • Im wondering, I recently got a new Mex. standard strat, I think they ship with 9's so I switched to 10's.  I tightened the claw screws first, and then after about two string changes I lossened the 6 bridge screws and then tightened the 2 outside screws now the bridge sits perfectly flat. So it doesnt matter if you make these 2 adjustments at the same time? Or should I have?

  • @bwd81977 Yes, 9s are the shipped set - 10s would have pulled the bridge up, so tightening is good - if you got the bridge flat then did the screws, you did correctly ;) There is a beveled edge to the front of the plate, hidden, and the screw shafts are smooth at the tops - so the bridge kinda slides up and down the screws - but u did it right. Don't have claws too tight if u want to ease arm use - still need to 'balance' string / spring but tight to hold flat to body - good job!

  • @jeffersononetwo Wow, thanks for getting back to me on that.

  • i have a Mexican Strat as well and I just bought a ProLine Strat Termolo arm. But it can't screw in... Do Proline tremolos not fit onto Mexican Strats?? Whats the deal?

  • i tightened the claw screws all the way in since i want to have a stable tune, but i forgot to loosen the 6 bridge screws first.

    do i need to redo this? I tightened the claws when i had all the strings off, so it had no tension at all on the bridge at that point.

    finally the claw screws are at an awkward angle and without a long screw driver it is hard to reach since the metal tangs of the claw get in the way.

  • @mjfan123085 You must be using thicker strings ... the bridge plate will eventually sit flat on the body so over tightening really doesn't buy you anything. I would recommend that you back off the two outside screws (you don't need to restring) just in case you decide to use the trem bar. Unless you have some really thick strings, you most likely have the bridge way too tight - but with the screws jammed in, you want to be careful not to strip the head or mess up the threading.

  • hi! thanx for sharing - i need a tech tip on how to set both action and saddles height.

    i have a fender american std stratocaster with the american tremolo, not the vintage one.

    i'd like to properly set the string saddels as from stock setup they're badly raised up.

    what i need is a tip on how to place the saddels at a standard height. then i could set the other adjustments.

    thanx!

  • @muaythai4lifelife I like those saddles ... low-profile and slick looking (easier on the palms too). The Fender Specifications I mention here are good for any bridge height ... the specs are general - can apply for many brands actually.

  • @muaythai4lifelife thanx! that is the action though ;) i need some measurement reference to start setting the saddles height to factory

  • neck pick up is a humbucker?

  • @paclover100 ... yeah, a Seymour Duncan Little '59 -- I think you can get them for the bridge too, but they are packaged by position. I really like the sound of it - the only single coil I have is in the middle position.

  • do most people have a flotaing trm on thier strats or do most people keep ii flat?

  • Most of the newer Strats I see do come with the raised bridge - but older models mostly lay flat. It's not that they can't be raised - the same plate is used and has a rolled edge to facilitate that floating choice. I guess i'd say *most* players lower the bridge on Strats, but it is a personal preference. You can still dive if you need too and tuning is rock solid - not sure that many need to go crazy and reverse.

  • Is not to say if most poeple do. Like he said, he likes his flat. If you like your to flote so that you can do dive out then you can..

  • Correct ... like Dragon said, if you want too float it, then that is perfectly cool - Fender sends out most that way. Spec is no more than 4/32 inch, or 1/8 inch from body to bottom of rear bridge.

  • @jeffersononetwo Ok, my bridge is flat to the body. Everything else Iv done perfectly from looking at your videos and from the fender website. But, for some reason, this guitar feels like it has alot of tension and when im playing it feels alot harder than normal to do bends and casual playing if that makes sense.

    Its been driving me crazy and I don't know what to do, Any advice?

  • @TarbleSauce ... someone else had a similar question this week about string bending troubles: for that, you may try just a little bit of 3-In-One oil on the tops of each of the six bridge saddles ... loosen the string tension, apply a little oil with a Q-Tip or something, then check out the bends after re-tune.

  • Thanks for these videos. I have a squier strat and I dont know wtf im doing. lol.

    the trems rear end is raised a bit over the body.

    I heard for beginners it's better to have the trem sit flush with the body as it will keep tune better.

    to do this, i just need to tighter the claw screws? that will pull the trem back into the body?

    thanks.

  • I keep my bridge flat to the body ... that's the way mine came, but it was played & autographed by Lenny Kravitz, so he may have set it up - who knows. To make it flat, you do adjust the two tremolo springs in the rear ... loosen the strings just a bit then tighten the screws until the bridge will remain flat while the strings are tuned to pitch - but not too tight - just enough to have the bridge sit flush.

  • Great series! I am about to buy one of the new Highway One Strats in the next few days, and I am sure these tips will be a great help to me when i set it up for the first time.

  • Congrats on the new purchase ... hope that goes well for you! thanks for the comments Bro ... it should be very rewarding to get your new Strat in great shape yourself! Rock on man!

  • When do you normally replace the tremelo strings strings?

    After 5 years / 10 years...?

    Or do the last longer?

    (Mine are about 5 years old and still work fine)

  • This Strat is a 1999 model ... the springs in it are well over 10 years old now. I do not use the tremolo very often, so it would depend on how much a person used it - in general, I'd say they would be good until they broke or no longer would keep the bridge balanced. Nothing wrong with replacing them if one wants too though.

  • OK,

    Thanks!

  • Is it ok to leave the back plate off, since the screws can get stripped after many string changes?

  • Once you get the bridge set for a synchronized system like this one, and don't change the gauge of string every time, you should not need to adjust the springs any further - thus, I would recommend to put the cover back on. Would it hurt to leave off? You might get the springs caught on clothing or something while playing ...

  • I have this problem with my MIM strat, whenever I try doing bends, the string goes out of tune for some reason. I find this annoying, especially when I play solos. So can you guys help?

  • Are you trying to go up a whole step? Sometimes that is hard to do and will sound just a bit out of tune, not quite making it - many players who do lots of bends will play 9s or even sometimes 8s ... I'm not sure if that is the case here or not.

  • No, the string itself goes out of tune, like when I bend the B string it goes out tune afterwards.

  • Well, have you performed a 'setup' like I show here in the videos? There could be a number of thing causing this string(s) to remain out of tune, but not knowing the setup, one thing to check is the nut. Detune, move sting out of nut slot, and take a tooth pick and put just a little Chapstick or Vasoline in the groove and replace string and tune up. Just a little though - some graphite from a pencil will work too, but Fender actually recommends Chapstick. stretch strings & tight at tuners.

  • No, I have not performed the setup like in your videos since because I'm afraid I'll do something wrong. I will follow your setup the next time I need to restring my guitar.

  • Comment removed

  • whats 2 30 seconds? that may seem like a stupid question but i really have no idea what kinda of mesurement that is and i really need to adjust my high ways bridge

  • Hey Dalton ... "2/32" is an imperial unit of measurement in inches (fraction) - that would equate to 1.59mm for you. Sorry for the confusion on the numbers! I try to convert when I can for those who are not in the U.S.

  • thanks dude

  • thats a mexican strat isnt it? i have one too allong with all y americans..i can tell by the tremello block bieng so thin

  • It is so ;)  I really love this guitar - gave it new strings, polish, and complete checkout last night! It is 11 years old

  • Hi, is that dimarzio minihumbucker on the bridge?? if so, which one and how it plays?

  • Actually, it is a Dimarzio Fast Track1 in the bridge :) There is a Seymour Duncan Little '59 in the neck ... the SD sounded better to me than did the Dimarzio, so I have since replaced the bridge with a Seymour Duncan Hot Rails. Oh ... the SD pickups sound so much better to my ears. Good eye man!

  • thanks for answering!

  • hey dude i need a new bridge not the little bits and pieces and not the entire set.

    i just need the biggest piece the part that the whammy actually screws into.

    not the plate over it the big piece under it.

    i cant seem to find a way to buy one online.

    all they have is the other bits and pieces or and entire tremolo system witch is like $100+.

    if you could suggest something else or know of an legit online store that has this piece for sale that would be great!

  • What seems to be the problem? The bits 'n pieces are the screws, springs, and saddles - they sit on the bridge/base plate which is attached by six screws the the guitar. This plate is also attached to the sustain block by three larger screws that are hidden under all the bits 'n pieces and it is this sustain block that is threaded for the tremolo arm. UR block stripped out? Most are in kits - sorry - need right mount spacing & thread count. Found 1 on ebay for $50 shipped 0 not sure if fits tho

  • its cool dude i found a generic brand that sells strat tremolo and its like $25 for the whole set so i figure ill just buy that and take the piece i need and the rest is just back up extra pieces which is always nice to have i guess.

  • ... glad you found one! Always nice to have some extra parts - I've got some myself :)

  • Just to say Jeff that after setting up my eric johnson strat to your tips in this series of videos that it is quite simply a differen't sounding guitar and i've gone from liking it to LOVING it. Many thanks for taking the time to post these vids and i recommend to anyone owning a strat to take the time to adjust their guitar by following your easy to follow instructions.

    Cheers bro.

  • Awesome man! I happy to hear it all went well and that I was able to play a small part in making your setup happen. You've got a killer guitar - keep that baby in tip-top shape! Rock on!

  • Hey, iv'e been playing fenders for years and i never knew this , good information simply put and to the point, thanks for the vid.

  • Thanks for the comments bro!

  • is there a special trick to getting the arm screwed in. cause mine wont. It looks like its to small.

  • You could have an arm from a Squire or some other Strat type guitar? The bars a kind of sloppy in there but they are all not threaded the same. If you have the right arm it should spin right in - but may be loose feeling if it is stock. There's no special trick - just the correct thread count on the arm.

  • ive got somewht of a trick,for the arm that works for me,you might find it useful.

    the arm on my strat was screwing in but very loose,it will toggle back and forth even of all the way in.what i do is get some plastic wrap,(like Glad wrap)and just a smal rectangular piece. wrap it on the thread part of the Arm.not too much just like 2or3 turns at the most, too much will get it to tight on the arm.but it fills the loose ends nicely and it wont wobble at all.sometimesyou have to go with what works

  • I replaced my 9's with 10's and now my bridge is floating a lot more than it was before, what do I do to get it back down. Is all I have to do loosen the six screw in the front of the bridge, loosen the springs in the back of the guitar than tighten the 6th and 1st screw in the bridge?

  • Hopefully you are not using a Floyd, or you'd be in serious trouble - lol! The 10s are going to pull more so the bridge should be tilting up now - on the back, you need to tighten the springs to bring it back down (de-tune first) - then retune and check the Truss rod measurements and do the setup again. I know you can get it :)

  • thanks a lot, this helped tremendously, the hardest part is knowing the right thing to, actually doing it is the easy part so thank you.

  • I'm sorry for being stupid lol but if you don't want the bridge to float what does that mean and do? Can you still use the tremolo system?

  • Nothing stupid here man :) You can still use it, no problem. If it is 'floating' then the rear of the bridge is not touching the body and it will allow you to tilt forward as well a backwards, slightly. 'Non floating' is where the whole bridge plate is flat with the body and resting on it - in that case, you can only tilt forward but the tuning stays in much better (I prefer mine that way - I never tilt backwards).

  • hey mf. this is a great vid. but i have questions.

    1. my guitar is almost the same, and all the screws are all the way down, screwed tightly. so i need to loosen them. right?

    2. what does 2-30, 4-30 means? could you use european measures?

    3. do i need to open the back? why do you needed to open the back?

    4. after all are done, you screw 1st and 6th screw tightly?

    thanx so much.

  • Hey man - yeah, all six of the screws should be

    1) moved to about 1.59mm (2/32in)

    2) you may need to adjust the springs in the back, depending on if you want to bridge to be raised or not - if so, the highest point of the raised bridge in the rear should be no more than 3.18mm (4/32in)

    3) after all, whether the bridge is raised or not, the two outside screws are tightened back down with the four in the middle still set to 1.59mm

    Hope that helps ya man! Holla back if you need more info ...

  • what do you mean when you say they need to be adjusted to about 1.59mm?

  • Carlitos07way -

    I'm having to switch from Imperial units (American) to Metric units for some people ... 1.59mm = 2/32 inch. The ruler you have should have 1/64th inch on one side and 1/32nd inch on the other. There are 6 screws on the base plate - likely all tightened down. To use the tremolo bar correctly to Fender specs, un-screw all 6 until they measure about 2/32 inch distance from plate to bot of screw. Adjust the springs as needed, then tighten the two screws on the outside down tight.

  • thank you dude, i couldnt make it without your help. keep rocking...

  • Very usefull video, thnx!

  • You're welcome bro ... thanks for watching

  • That is the Fender setup specifications ... there surely is a ryme & reason :)

  • okay cool. what's the difference between having the tremelo floating (which I assume means raised) to flat? Cause on my 2002 used strat that I got today, the bridge raises up a lot at the back

  • If you measure your 2002 Strat at the rear, it shouldn't be higher than 4/32 inch raised from the body - otherwise that springs would need adjusting. If it is not flat, or resting on the body, then i call that floating (you can bend forward and back just a little using the bar). If you get it in tune and adjust the springs so that the bridge rests on the body, it will stay in tune a little easier - I don't use the 'whammy bar' too much anyway :)

  • when you say the bridge should be "2/32 or 4/32" high..what unit?

  • Thanks man ... that would be measured in 'inches'. Conversion to metric are:

    2/32in ~ 1.6mm

    4/32in ~ 3.2mm

  • Hey Jeff great videos man. Quick question. On the vintage style trem, should the two outside screws actually be tight? Mine don't actually get tight. I can get them close to flush, but not tight.

    Thanks for this series.

  • Thanks for watching, Bro! I don't think the two outside screws need to be really tight ... but try to get them to touch the baseplate or as close as you can. They act as the pivot points - i'm guessing yours are prone to strip the head or something - sounds like they are being difficult. I think you should be okay ...

  • cool man!  I've got some other screws that i might try. Thanks again for the tips.

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