Added: 4 years ago
From: ScreenersChoice
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  • dude i think you're wasting a lot of time..just raise your flash a few inches and you can print a nice pace..how long can you actually hold that kind of speed? why kill youself when you dont have to...

  • is there any important info on what size of mesh & what type of paint ideal for a black color shirt?

  • @trebluap first its INK not paint..and your mesh depends on your ink...normal everday inks..110's 156's or even higher if you want a softer feel. if you are using something like a glitter ink or something you need to use lower mesh counts like 86's and 60's. runny inks like reflective or air dry ink...go high mesh.

  • Informative!

    

  • Can i silkscreen a duck ?

  • @Airickk2021 No!  Impossible!

  • Everyone is asking about the name of the machine... not sure... but looks similar to vastex.

  • what model are u using????

  • What is the name of the machine that they use to create the print!?

    I dont think there is any reason why you are NOT answering these questions.

    Its like 1 every 5 days to a month man geez

  • What is the name of the machine that they used to create those printing??

  • Too many people worry about speed. What are you all in a hurry for? Play some tunes, Put a drink on your side and print shirts. You all act like you have 20 - 300 shirt orders consistently. If you did, You wouldnt have time to bully people on you tube trying to help others.

  • hello sir, can you tell me the name of the print station you use? i have started a screenprint business and really like to know what u use in this video... thx a bunch for your videos... they are clear and easy to follow

  • Thank God for heat resistant pallets. idk...if there's not white in the art I get away with flash drying depending on the color ink. And it's opaque and not muddied. Also I've always used the one station. imo it's not worth the extra hustle doing it that way. Most driers will only go so fast and assure setting anyway. @timbov that must be one hell of a flash drier to flash in 4-6 seconds. omg. In my 20 years of printing i've never seen one flash faster then 15sec. My new Vastex takes 15-20.

  • Thanks for the video - it is good to see different perspectives, regardless of what some people post in these comments.

  • Thanks for this tutorial! I have a question. I am printing white ink on black shirts with 110 mesh screens. I like the Gildan 2000 shirts that are said to be preshrunk. I get good clear prints but there is some shrinkage during the first wash which causes some (not a lot) of puckering around the image as I think the fabric shrinks a little as the ink does not. Will your technique of pre heating the shirt before printing correct this. (I understand the need to cool before applying ink)

  • @shhotput

    sounds like it's a problem with the "off contact" or the 'squeegee pressure". when printing black on white it's real easy to get the squeegee pressure incorrect and the shirt will look fine but start to wash away immediately. this is because it's a black shirt with white so it's gonna pop pretty good. but if not enough pressure is used the ink will lay on top of the fabric instead of printing into it causing it to cure incorrectly.

  • Is it a proble to wash emolition down the sink? Cold it damage the pipes?

  • I got a question: I'm taking a class right now and part of the class is screenprinting. Which is what i want to do. In your video, I noticed you only cure your paint for about 5 seconds, but in my class the instructor tells us to do it for 30 seconds. I'm just want to know does your method work for all paints or for certain types of paints? Appreciate it, thanks.

  • @barricade49 usually plastisol needs to reach around 320-350F or so to cure. the time it takes for it to reach that temperature is how long it needs to be under the dryer..

  • @barricade49 He isn't curing. Thats done when he sends it down the dryer. He is flashing so that he can put another color on top. You will typically flash a t-shirt around 4-6 seconds and sweatshirt around 2-3. Curing requires the shirt to reach a tempurature of around 350 degress whether its via an oven, or flash cure unti. So perhaps your using a flash unit to cure rather than flash.

  • Very nice video. Thanks for sharing.

  • i thought this is how everyone does it...

  • Man I think it would be quicker to print white underbase, and then the yellow on top. You print flash print flash print each shirt? And then load them and rotate the carousel?!?! That is so not fast, and frankly I highly doubt you could get 225 shirts done with this method.

    If you do a time lapse of you doing it, I will send you 20$ in the mail. But i doubt you could without blowing a gasket

  • 1. You MUST flash the white before you print the yellow.

    2. If you print only one white, your yellow will not pop. It will look muddied and the quality of print will be bad.

    3. I've used this method consistently and with the conveyer dryer next to me, it is very possible and I've printed this fast.

    4. Although $20 is a nice gesture, I now use an auto to print larger orders. I could print this in 1/2 an hour, $20 is not worth the time.

    This video is meant to be helpful, not to make wild claims.

  • another thing that is also contributing to the fast production your getting with this method is the back-stroke printing you use withe the squeegee.

    to all beginning screen printers back-stroke printing is way superior to the forward-stroke printing method. despite what many trainers try to tell you.

  • Thanks for the comment. I have to agree. I've tried forward stroke printing like many suggest and I find I don't have the same kind of control. I found myself struggling to get a smooth, consistent stroke.

  • @MrHurt012 Amen. Forward stroke makes no sense. Your not taking advantage of the durometer of the rubber in the squegee.

  • what are the details of the machine you are using here?

    i am very interested in getting one similar!

  • is this the type of thing that feels kind of like a rubbery feeling on the shirt?

  • It depends on what screen mesh you are using. If you use a higher mesh, it has a softer, thinner feel. A lower mesh will make it feel rubbery.

  • Maybe he might be referring to transfer paper (the heat iron kind)

  • What degree do you have your heat cureing unit set to?

  • Comment removed

  • That is one sweet machine. I just got a silkscreening station myself, but it's only got one plate.

    Hey, if you're still willing to make videos, I have a suggestion for you. I hear that you can break an image down to it's RBG (or CMYK) elements and print it using only a few colors. I've looked around, but I can't find any clear answers on how to do this. Would you be willing to show us?

  • Not sure if this is what you mean? /watch?v=Tg7Dp6LnUSM&

  • @anthony62490 Separación de color en Corel Draw con Ghostscript

  • what you are referring to is called a four color process. Using photoshop or another graphics program you can separate

    any image into cmyk, which can be output and exposed onto 4 screens. This is a highly complicated process but you should have no problem finding a graphic designer to ddo this for you

  • @anthony62490 stick to spot colour(pms or whatever you use).If 4-col process worked on everything,everyone would use it.4-col process normally requires an underbase of white making the job 5-col anyway.You also have to get every squeege stroke on every colour exactly the same to achieve the correct end colour.

    Automatics are best for 4-col process and even companies with large automatics still use spot col for most jobs they do (unless they specialize in 4-col process only)

  • Pro's and cons to both of your arguments,

    The way demonstrated on the video is the best in my opinion but only if you hold the squeegee while you are spinning to the next plattern. The time you waste is picking up and putting down the squeegee, if you hold onto it you only pick it up and put it down once for every 4 garments in your case, rather than 8. Be carefull the boards don't get too hot though. It will thin out the ink resulting in a poor result after 2 hits.

  • Not for nothing, but I had to give my $.02...why, why the heck are you hitting the shirts 3 times? The way it's properly done is, 1st. raise your flash unit! 2nd, load the shirt, hit it once (there;s 0 reason to pre-warm the shirt) swing it to the flash...load another shirt...wait 6-7 seconds (at that point the shirt under the flash will be ready...repeat...when the 1st shirt swings back to you, unload it, load another, hit it, swing it....you're wasting some serious time w/ your method...trust

  • I've tested it both ways and I can tell you, I am losing no time at all in production. I can still crank out at least 150 an hour with this method on black. I always do 2 passes of white, it makes the customers very happy and I never get complaints. The advantage of pre-heating the shirt is shrinkage. Try printing sweatshirts, multiple colors of ink without preheating the garment and you will always waste because of misprints. This method, I've wasted 0.

  • What I still don't understand is this...why are you flashing the shirt twice just to take it off when it comes back to you? If you're worried about shrinkage, after the first dozen or so shirts, the platen is going to be warm enough so you don't have to worry about "shrinkage". Load the shirt, hit it, flash it, hit it, unload, load repeat. I hope you're not taking this the wrong way, I mean no disrespect. For hahas I tried your method and to be honest, I wasted a lot of time....

  • Rotate under the platen and heat the shirt. Sometimes you do not work as fast so this is a way to make sure the shirt does not shrink between passes. All I can say is, I've tested it both ways as well and once I get printing, I do not lose any time at all. This method WILL avoid misregistrations especially on fleece printing because of the shirt or garment moving. Out of curiosity, with a double pass of white ink, how fast are you printing with your method?

  • I actually just got finished w/ a one color white (hit-flash-hit-unload), 180 shirts took about 1:20...w/ a 5 minute smoke break :-)

  • Those are good times for sure for printing on black, at a rate of 135 per hour. As mentioned before, I can print 150 per hour with this method. Not much different than you. If you think about it, you still load the shirt and pull down the screen. With this method, you load the shirt and rotate and next time pull down the screen. The only additional move is the rotation and done quickly it's not going to make a difference. I have tested both ways and this is the best method for no shrinkage.

  • damn >>>>>> u should show me a thing or two.

  • hey im jezreel cachuela, 20years old from philippines Im a newbie graphic designer..

    Just wanna ask how much is this machine in peso?

    thanks..

  • How much does a rig like that usually cost?

  • 4 grand

  • It really depends on the configuration. A 4 color 4 station in a lessor model could be around $3,500. Some time ago I bought a 6 color 6 station Workhorse demo model for $3,500.

  • Thanks man, I really want to get started in my own T-Shirt business. I'm a graphic designer and the way we are doing it now is with HotFlock, a vinyl type that is cut and heat pressed on. Do you have any insight? Possibly send me a message with some info.

    Thanks again.

  • I wanna get into this too, but I'm only doin it for myself. I'm making one of a kind shirts only for me, and maybe for my friends if they ask nicely enough ;D good luck with your business bud.

  • Thanks, I've been doing some one-offs as well, it's pretty cool to have our own logo on a shirt at our shop. I've not yet got into screen printing. Is that what you are doing?

  • I guess so. It seems like the easiest and fastest way to get good designs. I wanna make the stuff that I see in the stores I visit. I also wanna add my own artistic bent to whatever I wear. You should search for "POISONHEART" on youtube. I have no idea what the guy is saying, OR what the name means, but his shirts are CRAZY! Tell me more about this HotFlock thing you use...

  • It's basically a stretchy vinyl, that can be cut out using a vinyl cutter. It works extremely well, it's heatpressed. The only downside is it is all edgework and such, you can't do fades or blends. It works but you can't do too much artistic stuff.

  • where do you live and design?

    You want to design for my company?

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