rig up a magic button (manual glue plug button) . i had a diesel silverado once that the relay did not work and thats what i did and then the relay worked
the solanoid is probably bad. theres now real way to check the relay youve shown youve got juice all around it i would guesstmate the relay is bad. ive have a good question for you; i have found a blazer like yours in a salvadge yard 6.2 ltr diesel. its 12 volt but has 2 alternators both of them are reasonenably heavy duty. whats up w/ that? im almost thinking an aux. power source of some kind.
could be bad relays bad grounding or low volts miss up batter's wire it could be the key switch link rod to the mane switch box but more then like'ly it the f**k'in mane relay
Just to help you out. When i replaced my dana 44 front to a dana 60 it bolted right in with the 60 spring plates. Only problem was the rubber brake lines are smaller fitting at caliper end on 60 than 44 order up new lines for 1 ton bolt right in
According to what ive researched grounding the blue wire should activate the relay. Normally its grounded via the controller when their needed. The red wire is always hot when the ign is turned on. With a controller that diode is important it keeps the spike out of it. Go to rat shack and get 276-1102 install across the red and blue wires with the white line pointing to the red terminal. Then find out why the controller isnt working possibly bad ground to controller. Need wiring diagram.
i can check the glow plug system on my 85. the controller is different. it's similar to the 6.5 controller. I believe there is a controller card that controls the relay. It's job is to turn the GPs on for a set amount of time and then cycle them a few times. I have no idea how it works but maybe your is missing or burnt out?
So did you check on that inhibit switch? Mine would do a jump either cause the power was going to the switch and then it was dead, nothing coming out the switch, couldnt find one anywere so i cut the two wires and spliced them together and walla she worked.
I think those work just like a solenoid for a starter (at least on Fords) and if its not clicking when it gets power, its probably bad. Replace it, you've got lost of extras!
hey corvair ill make a video of my chilton manual in a few minutes my camera battery is charging. it shows how the 1982-1984 glow plug systems work on these trucks. has a diagram and a description.
if i remember right one terminal needs 12V+ and the other needs ground to operate properly. thats what the temperture sender in the cylinder head gives it when it wants the glows to glow.
strange. i wonder if its cause that little diode isnt there to help along. too bad you couldnt put one of those on there from the burb just to see what happens.
cai des piece ford cai fait a po marcher lol mais je te dirai de le changer on a des comme ca a ma job et cai arriver une fois que le relay soi corect de elxterieur mais il etai bruler et tout
mais comme le mesieur en desosu de moi dit check ton ground sur ton truck
Hello MR Corvair. I think you could have the same proplem i had with my 84 6.2 2500 teeruk. On the left hand cly head(looking at the motor from the front) at the very back of the cly head is a sensor. Its called Glow Plug Inhibt Switch, if its bad the relay wont click, and not 6.2s have the inhibt switch. I checked mine by just putting a jumper wire inbetween the two wires that go on the sensor, turn key and see if i works, If it dose bad glow plug inhibit switch.
Hmmm, interesting. I did switch the relays, the one on the K5 is from the Sub, and the one on the Sub is from the K5, and it works, so the prob is eslewhere. What's weird is that the relay should click if I jump it from the batt, which I tried. The relay is also well grounded, no rust, and I tried a jumper wire just to be sure...
Could either be a bad ground or the relay itself is bad. The relay itself probably is grounded directly to the truck so remove it and clean the metal. If that don't work remove the relay and check for continuity between the metal bracket and the terminal where the blue wire goes.
Unplug your connector and check if you still get power at your blue wire. I think blue wire is broken or you have bad ground. It could also go to a sensor, timer circuit or something.
If you want your relay to work you need +12V and ground, not two +12V.
Just a thought- have you tried swapping in the Suburban's relay into the Blazer? Just to see if the relay is bad? I don't know how hard it would be to remove it, I can't imagine it would be to difficult. My '84 K20 is gas powered, so I have no reference for the diesel. But gotta love dem Chev-o-lets! Good luck!
YOUR PROBLEM IS THE TWO LETTERS "GM" ha ha
tamayo16 9 months ago
yeah make sure everythin is tightin down and if if it is bad u should e able to jump the relay but just buy another and say ITS ZEEE JUNKK lol
bigboi1245 2 years ago
The blue wire isn't grounding.
giberish9 2 years ago
rig up a magic button (manual glue plug button) . i had a diesel silverado once that the relay did not work and thats what i did and then the relay worked
bergercw 2 years ago
the solanoid is probably bad. theres now real way to check the relay youve shown youve got juice all around it i would guesstmate the relay is bad. ive have a good question for you; i have found a blazer like yours in a salvadge yard 6.2 ltr diesel. its 12 volt but has 2 alternators both of them are reasonenably heavy duty. whats up w/ that? im almost thinking an aux. power source of some kind.
mchl8 2 years ago
is that rust around the windsheild? =0
erk409 2 years ago
could be bad relays bad grounding or low volts miss up batter's wire it could be the key switch link rod to the mane switch box but more then like'ly it the f**k'in mane relay
ISUZU1987 2 years ago
Just to help you out. When i replaced my dana 44 front to a dana 60 it bolted right in with the 60 spring plates. Only problem was the rubber brake lines are smaller fitting at caliper end on 60 than 44 order up new lines for 1 ton bolt right in
customsport 2 years ago
Have you checked the ground wire that goes to the relay?
mjmcomputers 2 years ago
According to what ive researched grounding the blue wire should activate the relay. Normally its grounded via the controller when their needed. The red wire is always hot when the ign is turned on. With a controller that diode is important it keeps the spike out of it. Go to rat shack and get 276-1102 install across the red and blue wires with the white line pointing to the red terminal. Then find out why the controller isnt working possibly bad ground to controller. Need wiring diagram.
contrapezist 2 years ago
i can check the glow plug system on my 85. the controller is different. it's similar to the 6.5 controller. I believe there is a controller card that controls the relay. It's job is to turn the GPs on for a set amount of time and then cycle them a few times. I have no idea how it works but maybe your is missing or burnt out?
iamdave0887 2 years ago
I parked my identical SF Sub rite next to it, and swapped relays, yada, yada... I'll show more tomorrow...
CORVAIRWILD 2 years ago
Im sorry it wouldnt do a jumer wire.
davidgoodwin07 2 years ago
So did you check on that inhibit switch? Mine would do a jump either cause the power was going to the switch and then it was dead, nothing coming out the switch, couldnt find one anywere so i cut the two wires and spliced them together and walla she worked.
davidgoodwin07 2 years ago
how much do u want for that crappy s10 i need a ghetto winter truck
GtotheC88 2 years ago
Too much, it runs super, new tank and pump, exhaust... over $1000...
CORVAIRWILD 2 years ago
oh ok i just need some JUNK truck so i don't have to drive my summer cars
GtotheC88 2 years ago
I think those work just like a solenoid for a starter (at least on Fords) and if its not clicking when it gets power, its probably bad. Replace it, you've got lost of extras!
blackhawk8427 2 years ago
hey corvair ill make a video of my chilton manual in a few minutes my camera battery is charging. it shows how the 1982-1984 glow plug systems work on these trucks. has a diagram and a description.
6030diesel 2 years ago
Sounds good. I bought an extra fake genuine batt for $5 on ebay
CORVAIRWILD 2 years ago
if i remember right one terminal needs 12V+ and the other needs ground to operate properly. thats what the temperture sender in the cylinder head gives it when it wants the glows to glow.
6030diesel 2 years ago
I ran 12volts directly to the pink terminal...
CORVAIRWILD 2 years ago
strange. i wonder if its cause that little diode isnt there to help along. too bad you couldnt put one of those on there from the burb just to see what happens.
6030diesel 2 years ago
Take a volt meter, set to continuity or ohms. The symbol on the meter often looks like a diode ->-
With key off, place on lead on a ground and other on that wire. Should only see a couple ohms at most. Any more... get a new relay!
bagawk 2 years ago
Which is "that" wire? The blue or pink? The Pink is closer to the batt...
CORVAIRWILD 2 years ago
Replace it, and see if that fixes it.
coffeefish 2 years ago
Swapped from the SF Sub...
CORVAIRWILD 2 years ago
cai des piece ford cai fait a po marcher lol mais je te dirai de le changer on a des comme ca a ma job et cai arriver une fois que le relay soi corect de elxterieur mais il etai bruler et tout
mais comme le mesieur en desosu de moi dit check ton ground sur ton truck
devildriver66621 2 years ago
Hello MR Corvair. I think you could have the same proplem i had with my 84 6.2 2500 teeruk. On the left hand cly head(looking at the motor from the front) at the very back of the cly head is a sensor. Its called Glow Plug Inhibt Switch, if its bad the relay wont click, and not 6.2s have the inhibt switch. I checked mine by just putting a jumper wire inbetween the two wires that go on the sensor, turn key and see if i works, If it dose bad glow plug inhibit switch.
davidgoodwin07 2 years ago
Hmmm, interesting. I did switch the relays, the one on the K5 is from the Sub, and the one on the Sub is from the K5, and it works, so the prob is eslewhere. What's weird is that the relay should click if I jump it from the batt, which I tried. The relay is also well grounded, no rust, and I tried a jumper wire just to be sure...
CORVAIRWILD 2 years ago
you made a good little work truck out of that s-10
GEARHEADGUY92 2 years ago
Does that mean you'll buy it???
CORVAIRWILD 2 years ago
Could either be a bad ground or the relay itself is bad. The relay itself probably is grounded directly to the truck so remove it and clean the metal. If that don't work remove the relay and check for continuity between the metal bracket and the terminal where the blue wire goes.
SkyFitsHeaven24 2 years ago
looks as if your relay is shot.. thier cheap go pick up a new one to fix or just for a spare
trugertha 2 years ago
get a diffrent one it could be bad
diablogeek 2 years ago
Unplug your connector and check if you still get power at your blue wire. I think blue wire is broken or you have bad ground. It could also go to a sensor, timer circuit or something.
If you want your relay to work you need +12V and ground, not two +12V.
PodbojP 2 years ago
Just a thought- have you tried swapping in the Suburban's relay into the Blazer? Just to see if the relay is bad? I don't know how hard it would be to remove it, I can't imagine it would be to difficult. My '84 K20 is gas powered, so I have no reference for the diesel. But gotta love dem Chev-o-lets! Good luck!
pearsonba350 2 years ago
Check all the ground connections because I see you´re using an external ground for the screwdriver.
If nothing happens I believe you have a shot relayy
Greetings from Iceland.
saebbi 2 years ago