ive watched a few of ur videos an they have given me some new ideas to do with switching an helped me decide if i will use DCC or full automaited pc controll
@fred10538 They are not quite as refined as the peco ones, but I found them for a good price. I have no point decoders involved so the dcc system ignores them in terms of current and only supplies very little when the switch is thrown, hence to additional dc power supply.
@fred10538 I am aware that I could damage them by accident, but so far so good. I use a separte power source to switch them too as DCC is AC voltage and wouldn't work. Not sure how much current they use, I would expect it to be no more than 1A.
I am thinking of building another layout in my loft and was wondering what basesboard wood you use and where u got it from. Also where do get all your tons of track from?????
@MikeHane1 I used a pen, paper and tape measure. I decided that the best form of planning was to build the baseboard and then experiment with what you can do.
The layout is great and I love the point system you have. I understand bus and feeder wiring but when it comes to points I'm still a bit confused on the wiring and such. Would it be possibleto do an instructional video on wiring up an electrofrog point as you do with the point motor aswell. If it could cover wiring, polarity and insulated fishplates (i.e where to place them) that would be so useful! Can you join point to point aswell like this?
I'm sure you know this already, but if you fit a capacitor discharge unit between the point motor power supply and the common returns from the motors and swtiches, you'll get rid of that buzzing sound when you throw the switches. Helps prevent potential burn out of the motors too
I'm sure you know this already, but if you fit a capacitor discharge unit between the point motor power supply and the common returns from the motors and swtiches, you'll get rid of that buzzing sound when you throw the switches. Helps prevent potential burn out of the motors too
I'm sure you know this already, but if you fit a capacitor discharge unit between the point motor power supply and the common returns from the motors and swtiches, you'll get rid of that buzzing sound when you throw the switches. Helps prevent potential burn out of the motors too
@gtacrusher123 Yeah it is quite expensive and every time you buy a new loco you have to buy a decoder for it. However it does work so much better than dc. My layout would never work on dc unless I wired in loads of isolating sections.
Brilliant Video. Im wondering about installing point motors, but i have already ballasted the track and im wondering if its too late. And what do i need to do to install them properley.?
@StrettonJunction Thanks, unless you drilled a hole in the baseboard under each point then i'm afraid it's too late. You have 2 choices, either rip up the ballast and points then drill the hole required or use surface mounted point motors, these don't require a hole and sit next to the point. Hornby and peco make these types of point motor.
@bloodmarine77 Thats all right. Electrofrog are better as they look realistic (no plastic), and offer super smooth running when wired up correctly.
I have 2 pairs of bus wires. 1 pair are + and - from the lenz dcc system, this powers the track. The other pair are + and - from my old dc controller. This pair powers point motors, lights and anything else that isn't dcc. The point motors use the dc and dcc bus wires to work, thats why is so complicated.
great video, cant wait to see the whole layout video you are doing this weekend, hope you include some nice close ups of the street scene , there were some great tips on the clips you made when u were making it
good video again mate.but what idont understand is how you get a short circuit when a train hits a point facing the other way.i dont get that on my layout atall as i use those little spring clips placed between the rails on each point so ive got power to the whole layout.also how do you power all of the points,what are hey rigged up to?
@bloodmarine77 My points are electrofrog, this means theres no plastic at all on them. Even an insulfrog point with the wire clips has a dead frog, this dead part prevents a short circuit. The reason mine sort out when going to wrong way is quite complictaed and difficlut to explain without a diagram. Basicly the frog is either + or - depending on which way your going.
Point motors are powered from both sets of bus wires.
@eanat11 I always planned for the layout to have signalling, when I’ve decided what sort of signals I want and where they need to be I will get some. I’m working on scenery and point motors at the moment so it will be a while.
@EverardJunction Model Rail MR 153 (February) suggest either Berko or Traintonics. Both ready made. Traintonics masts look a bit plasticy but that can be sorted with some paint, it comes with a circuitboard so the lights fade in and out like the real thing. Berko have ground and platform mounted ones and have junctions (two side by side or one lower than the other. Berko ~£14.25, Traintonics ~26.99. Both come in two, three and four aspects with (or without) route indicators. Hope this helps.
@peppergroyne Thanks, the point motors change the points very quickly, when they do some of the rails in the points vibrate against each other and make the buzzing noise, the motors themselves are silent.
great new vid been looking at all your old ones ,im on points now with my layout, confusing, ha ha but keep on going, when are going to add the TMD over the concrete,
ive watched a few of ur videos an they have given me some new ideas to do with switching an helped me decide if i will use DCC or full automaited pc controll
pmacca1990 3 days ago
@fred10538 They are not quite as refined as the peco ones, but I found them for a good price. I have no point decoders involved so the dcc system ignores them in terms of current and only supplies very little when the switch is thrown, hence to additional dc power supply.
EverardJunction 1 month ago
@fred10538 I find that most dcc systems arn't powerful enough to throw the swith unless a decoder is used anyway.
EverardJunction 1 month ago
@fred10538 I am aware that I could damage them by accident, but so far so good. I use a separte power source to switch them too as DCC is AC voltage and wouldn't work. Not sure how much current they use, I would expect it to be no more than 1A.
EverardJunction 1 month ago
@fred10538 The switch is sprung to return to the center position. When it springs back the flow of current stops and saves the seep.
EverardJunction 1 month ago
@EverardJunction
Thanks and cool I get lots of things from Hattons
Alex
Stanier8F 2 months ago
@EverardJunction
Hi loving the videos
I am thinking of building another layout in my loft and was wondering what basesboard wood you use and where u got it from. Also where do get all your tons of track from?????
Thanks:)
Alex
Stanier8F 2 months ago
@Stanier8F The wood is MDF, I get that from Homebase. The track comes from a very popular model shop called hattons.
EverardJunction 2 months ago
i am planing on bulding my own layout,how did you plan you if do not mind me asking,i am looking for ideas,your layout brilliant
MikeHane1 4 months ago
@MikeHane1 I used a pen, paper and tape measure. I decided that the best form of planning was to build the baseboard and then experiment with what you can do.
EverardJunction 4 months ago
Love the railway, very nice. Your ballasting it is very good, Wiring is scary but thats part of the hooby. Thanks for a good video.
Weslake500 4 months ago
lovely layout
shazam75 5 months ago
dose anyone know the cost to get your train chiped = £
philrobot 6 months ago
Where would you drill the holes for the point thing
Liverpoolfcfever 7 months ago
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How much was the DCC control
Liverpoolfcfever 9 months ago
How much was the DCC control
Liverpoolfcfever 9 months ago
@Liverpoolfcfever Price changes depending on what system you want. Mine is lenz and cost a lot, but hornby and bachmann systems are much cheaper.
EverardJunction 9 months ago
The layout is great and I love the point system you have. I understand bus and feeder wiring but when it comes to points I'm still a bit confused on the wiring and such. Would it be possibleto do an instructional video on wiring up an electrofrog point as you do with the point motor aswell. If it could cover wiring, polarity and insulated fishplates (i.e where to place them) that would be so useful! Can you join point to point aswell like this?
Would appreciate it so much thankyou. Well done
BenjiChandler 9 months ago
@BenjiChandler Sure, a few people have asked, i will do one in the next few weeks
EverardJunction 9 months ago
Great vid, could you maybe do a vid on wiring the seep point motors?
MrBenbo96 9 months ago
@MrBenbo96 I will do in a few weeks
EverardJunction 9 months ago
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I'm sure you know this already, but if you fit a capacitor discharge unit between the point motor power supply and the common returns from the motors and swtiches, you'll get rid of that buzzing sound when you throw the switches. Helps prevent potential burn out of the motors too
Great vids, BTW
johnnydagooner 11 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I'm sure you know this already, but if you fit a capacitor discharge unit between the point motor power supply and the common returns from the motors and swtiches, you'll get rid of that buzzing sound when you throw the switches. Helps prevent potential burn out of the motors too
Great vids, BTW
johnnydagooner 11 months ago
I'm sure you know this already, but if you fit a capacitor discharge unit between the point motor power supply and the common returns from the motors and swtiches, you'll get rid of that buzzing sound when you throw the switches. Helps prevent potential burn out of the motors too
Great vids, BTW
johnnydagooner 11 months ago
@johnnydagooner Thanks, I was aware of the discharge unit, i might fit one later as i'm still fitting the motors at the moment.
EverardJunction 11 months ago
@EverardJunction I recommend the Gaugemaster one. DON'T get the Peco one!!
johnnydagooner 11 months ago
@johnnydagooner ok, i'll remember that
EverardJunction 11 months ago
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@EverardJunction I recommend the Gaugemaster one. DON'T get the Peco one!!
johnnydagooner 11 months ago
@EverardJunction I recommend the Gaugemaster one and not the Peco one
johnnydagooner 11 months ago
hi what is the switchboard made out of?
hintonrailways 1 year ago
hi what is the switchboard made out of?
hintonrailways 1 year ago
hi what material did you use for the switch board i can find the right material and i dont want metal :D
hintonrailways 1 year ago
@hintonrailways It's 3mm thick plywood
EverardJunction 1 year ago
I like the control panel!
BMR5ify 1 year ago
@BMR5ify Thanks
EverardJunction 1 year ago
Excellent and informative as usual , when are you doing dvd ?
REGWARNE12 1 year ago
@REGWARNE12 At the moment i have no plans to make a dvd, when the layout is more finished i might think about it.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
4:56 as u stop the loco then switch the point when u switch the points does that loco have no power going to it?
HornbyExpress 1 year ago
@HornbyExpress As I change the point the loco changes direction, so the taillights turned off. It looks like it's lost power but it hasn't.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
Comment removed
HornbyExpress 1 year ago
i wish i had dcc but it just cost's to much
gtacrusher123 1 year ago
@gtacrusher123 Yeah it is quite expensive and every time you buy a new loco you have to buy a decoder for it. However it does work so much better than dc. My layout would never work on dc unless I wired in loads of isolating sections.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
@EverardJunction and you can run more than one train on a track without crashing into the other trains and making a massive derailment
gtacrusher123 1 year ago
Brilliant Video. Im wondering about installing point motors, but i have already ballasted the track and im wondering if its too late. And what do i need to do to install them properley.?
Thanks
StrettonJunction 1 year ago
@StrettonJunction Thanks, unless you drilled a hole in the baseboard under each point then i'm afraid it's too late. You have 2 choices, either rip up the ballast and points then drill the hole required or use surface mounted point motors, these don't require a hole and sit next to the point. Hornby and peco make these types of point motor.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
@EverardJunction Oh right, not too worry, so the gaugemaster ones sit under neath the points.
StrettonJunction 1 year ago
@StrettonJunction Yeah, gaugemaster might also make surface mounted ones, but i dont know.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
so what are better,electrofrog or insulfrog.and what powers your bus wires.sorry to be a pain but i dont know shit about electrics.
bloodmarine77 1 year ago
@bloodmarine77 Thats all right. Electrofrog are better as they look realistic (no plastic), and offer super smooth running when wired up correctly.
I have 2 pairs of bus wires. 1 pair are + and - from the lenz dcc system, this powers the track. The other pair are + and - from my old dc controller. This pair powers point motors, lights and anything else that isn't dcc. The point motors use the dc and dcc bus wires to work, thats why is so complicated.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
great video, cant wait to see the whole layout video you are doing this weekend, hope you include some nice close ups of the street scene , there were some great tips on the clips you made when u were making it
topgun01268 1 year ago
@topgun01268 Thanks i'll bear that in mind
EverardJunction 1 year ago
good video again mate.but what idont understand is how you get a short circuit when a train hits a point facing the other way.i dont get that on my layout atall as i use those little spring clips placed between the rails on each point so ive got power to the whole layout.also how do you power all of the points,what are hey rigged up to?
bloodmarine77 1 year ago
@bloodmarine77 My points are electrofrog, this means theres no plastic at all on them. Even an insulfrog point with the wire clips has a dead frog, this dead part prevents a short circuit. The reason mine sort out when going to wrong way is quite complictaed and difficlut to explain without a diagram. Basicly the frog is either + or - depending on which way your going.
Point motors are powered from both sets of bus wires.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
are you having any signals because you havent got any, at all?
eanat11 1 year ago
@eanat11 I always planned for the layout to have signalling, when I’ve decided what sort of signals I want and where they need to be I will get some. I’m working on scenery and point motors at the moment so it will be a while.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
@EverardJunction cool, i just thought that yoyu get everthinng but them
eanat11 1 year ago
@EverardJunction Model Rail MR 153 (February) suggest either Berko or Traintonics. Both ready made. Traintonics masts look a bit plasticy but that can be sorted with some paint, it comes with a circuitboard so the lights fade in and out like the real thing. Berko have ground and platform mounted ones and have junctions (two side by side or one lower than the other. Berko ~£14.25, Traintonics ~26.99. Both come in two, three and four aspects with (or without) route indicators. Hope this helps.
OOTrainsandModels 1 year ago
@OOTrainsandModels Thanks, ill take a look
EverardJunction 1 year ago
excellent video
alexamltd 1 year ago
@alexamltd Thanks mate
EverardJunction 1 year ago
Maybe a newbie question but why do some of the points make a buzz and others just silently click over? Is this by design or just different switches?
Thanks for the great vids - instructional and informative. Keep up the great work :)
peppergroyne 1 year ago
@peppergroyne Thanks, the point motors change the points very quickly, when they do some of the rails in the points vibrate against each other and make the buzzing noise, the motors themselves are silent.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
5****s it really runs smooth now
jaannetts16 1 year ago
@jaannetts16 Thanks mate
EverardJunction 1 year ago
great new vid been looking at all your old ones ,im on points now with my layout, confusing, ha ha but keep on going, when are going to add the TMD over the concrete,
488scooby 1 year ago
@488scooby I will be adding painted lines, grass and bushes to the TMDs. The TMD for the dmus will not have a shed and just remain open space.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
nice layout mate your next step signals lol keep it up
midlandspotters 1 year ago
@midlandspotters Thanks, ive been looking into some signaling.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
confusing but very well done nice points and layout
mongoosekid14 1 year ago
@mongoosekid14 Yeah it is abit, took me a while to work it all out, but it does work well.
EverardJunction 1 year ago
Looking good!
tpe18509 1 year ago
@tpe18509 Thanks
EverardJunction 1 year ago