Added: 4 years ago
From: korn1536
Views: 140,620
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:
see all

All Comments (120)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • I think you did very well thank you for making this video. I have the 1911 also and this will be a big help;-)

  • Does this mil spec have a firing pin safety like the series 80?

  • @jntroisi Nope, no safety.

  • did this gun come from the factory with a black barrel bushing? i have the exact same gun except mine came with a stainless barrel bushing.

    hmm.. strange.

  • thumbs up if you came here from Gun disassembly 2. Volume 1

  • Just got the 2011 loaded with ambidexterous saftey and comander hammer and trigger... I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!

  • Nice Job! Thanks for sharing this video!

  • Excellent and thorough video. Thanks a lot for making it, and nicely done.

  • Hi Korn - me again. Being I have smaller hands I have replaced the arched Main Spring Housing with a flat MSP - also I've put thinner rubber Grip panels & it makes the world of difference. Now I have 2 1911's that fit better, shoot easier, & more accurately. Both are the Mil Spec versions. Check out my latest 3 videos at buzzclark channel showing me putting together & sighting in a 10/22 Ruger. Thank You. Sincerely, JAMES.

  • After watching other videos this is about the best i seen and easiest to follow. Nicely done and I do appreciate it.

  • Just got my 1911 back together following your video. Perfect! Thanks for this.

  • I can't believe you would actually pry your grips off with a screwdriver. That's not what that little notch if for. That notch is the cut for an ambidextrous safety. If your grips are snug you can whack the grip frame with a plastic or wooden screwdriver handle to jar them loose. I would also never use a screwdriver to push pins out of the frame. You're really going to scratch your frame. Get yourself some brass punches. Other than that, I like the video.

  • @jtwhiddon I've done it hundreds of times and have no scratches...don't do it if you don't want to; just whack it with a screwdriver like you suggested. By the way to the people who have commented on things like this, my guns are for self defense. I don't plan on posting pictures in one of those nice gun magazines. Point being, I really could care less what my guns look like, if they function reliably. However, if you would like a "pretty" gun then yes, please use plastic and rubber tools.

  • Comment removed

  • @korn1536 I wasn't trying to be a smart alack, but it seems as if you were. I was just offering some alternative suggestions. So. take it how ever you want and scratch away.

  • No, not at all, it's a good tip. I was being serious; rubber mallets and plastic handles are in fact ideal as scratch preventatives and should definitely be used by persons not wanting scratches. I was just stating that I don't care for mine, but those that do should most certainly take your advice. Thanks.

  • If u insert ur finger or a blunt object up inside the magwell you can remove the grip panels. This way u will not damage the grip panels Just some Friendly advise

    Great Video.

  • "looks lo

  • Now I know how many parts that jack ass of a friend of mine lost when he broke the damned thing...

  • Love that Yoda!

  • I agree, great video! I am changing out some parts on my 1911 and this will come in handy. Thanks!

  • Great vid. Im in the process of getting my PT1911B ready for sale and I have polished the SS parts to a mirror finish, however I would like to do the trigger. Unfortunately, I have tried the frame dissassembly before and couldn't even try to get it back together. Granted, its a Series 80, so I have the firing pin safety...Any tips? I was a Scout/Sniper in the Army less than 6 months ago, so I am weapons inclined to say the least, but this is giving me a pain in the ass. Check out my vids.

  • h t t p : / / w w w .thehighroad. org/showthread.php?s=&threadid­=56922

  • @SCOUTCHRIS Hi, first off a sincere thank you for all you guys do. Now, the main difference in the series 80 frames is that there's the rocker arm the lifts up to engage the plunger on the slide for the firing pin block. Here's a site that goes into more detail: h t t p : / / w w w .thehighroad. org/showthread.php?s=&threadid­=56922

    (without all the spaces in the letters)

    Hopefully that helps. Write me back if not and I'll find more help. Thanks.

  • Nice

  • GREAT great pistol.

    IF the laws are going to be changed here in the UK (wich they may!) then this is what is going to be my first pistol.

  • @nuttyape i just watched a video about the protests over there, i really hope you guys get your rights back for handguns and rifles, its a damn shame that you guys lost those rights, goodluck!

  • @vxtip556 Thanks a lot man :)

    Your support means a lot m8

  • @nuttyape Really? UK is thinking about reversing the handgun ban? When? What legislation is being put through? Anyway, good luck, and tell parliament they can stick it up their ass, cause you have a basic unalienable right to defend yourself.

  • Nice vid

  • "Now the firing pin should slide out..." *CAT* *Looks delicious....nom nom nom* "Oh no!" Yeah that would be bad. Sick kitty and sick pistolie. Seriously though, cool video. Always wanted to see a breakdown on a 1911. I don't currently own / operate, nor have I ever opperated one. Very informative. Thanks korn.

  • can you change the mag release to a left hander? i have the same gun..

  • Great job

  • ok kaayo bai

  • kitties love small easy to lose parts, especially ones that make noise and roll around lol

  • In the Army we weren't allowed to take this gun apart that far. not the firing pin, or the handgrip, or the lower section. Only the Armorer could do that.

  • He doesn't say you should store the ammo in another room, he's saying that when he takes it apart the ammo is in another room. This isn't uncommon, I know plenty of people that do this. For safety sake, when they handle a gun in any way, in the home, they don't want any ammo around to not have any accidents.

    I do a lot of dry firing around my home, for training, and when ever I do this, I always make sure it's snap caps in the gun, and that there is no ammo in the room, it's all in a safe.

  • I'm just curious as to why you say to put your ammo in a different room? Do you not trust yourself?

  • @Pinstipedtie.....this guy pracices the correct way of storing ammo in your home. it's not about trusting yourself. it's about making it safe for everyone in your home and making sure you follow proceedure instead of just assuming you're safe. if you've ever been to a range where an IPSC match is going on you will understand safety proceedures.

  • I live alone and don't need to follow any of those such procedures. An unloaded gun is a worthless gun! Mine are always loaded and ready.

    What's the sense of owning a gun for self defence if you are going to keep the gun and ammo in separate rooms? You will be dead if something were to occur in your home. STRESS makes you act in strange ways.

    Now WHERE did I put that ammo??

    YOU DEAD!!

    Thanks so much for your response!

  • @Pinstripedtie....i know what you mean. I put the gun under my bed and at least one loaded mag in the side table drawer...grabing the mag from there will wake me up enough. the rest of the ammo has to stay in another room. you need two things to wake you up...a burglar alarm and a dog. the dog is your 2nd line of defense.

  • @Pinstripedtie I know it's been a year, but I just saw this comment. You completely misunderstood. Any person with knowledge of firearms knows you should never have ammo near by when you are cleaning your gun. To be clear to anyone reading this, I am not suggesting you store ammo and guns in different rooms after they are assembled and ready for action. Thanks. :)

  • I cannot seem to get the grip safety out. Any tips?

  • Nice video

  • Can you make a video on how to disassemble the Mainspring housing?

  • beautiful grip

  • cat!^^

  • I like that.

  • bro, if i want to change my combat commander hammer to a after market skeletonize hammer, will it fit right away or i should go to a gunsmith and they'll do it?thanks

  • Every one I've gotten has gone right in. Some companies will send you just the hammer, so you might have to pop the bar off the old one and reattach it to the new one.

  • whats the dif. betwen the gi and the milspec

  • Well, there are some minor differences like the sights, the lowered/flared ejection port, a higher hand grip, angled slide serrations, the grip panels, beveled magazine well, and polished feed ramp. GI is the closest reproduction to the classic WWII A1's.

  • This video is exactly what I was looking for. I'm about to pick up a GI model and I wanted to know how to break it down.

    Thanks!

  • BEST vid ive seen on youtube thank you!!!

  • going for a 1911A1 with the standard olive drab, gonna put in some diamond ivory grips, sand the barrel down to the silver and rough up the slide for the old calvary 1911 look

  • sweet...like to see that.

  • I just bought a new Mil - Spec pistol also, what if I just dissessemble the upper portion of the gun & on the reciever parts spray them down good with a good gun cleaner then air dry or blow it dry with an air compressor , then re- lube the whole gun instead of dissessembling the whole reciever parts,will this do the trick, of cleaning it the short cut way, or ( the lazy man's way ) ?

  • Sure, I think that's fine for most cleanings. I only do this deep cleaning every now and then (every few thousand rounds). Once in a blue moon I recommend taking it apart to use some elbow grease on it...dried up gunshot residue can cake on pretty good some times.

  • i just bought one of these for my 21st and was wondering how often i should have to clean and break down my 1911.

  • haha cat.......

    nice video correct me if im wrong but isnt a basic field strip inough to keep ur gun working properly?

  • Yes it is. But after multiple thousands of rounds it gets gunked up pretty good...plus since it's my carry gun I need it to be more then just working properly; I need it to function flawlessly every time. Happy to say I still have not had a malfunction of any kind. She just keeps going and going.

  • beautiful gun

  • my cat is also named Yoda :)

  • WOW ! I have never seen a 1911 fully taken apart...only a field strip..thanks a lot good job !

  • you are a lifesaver. i had my 1911 field stripped but couldn't figure out how to get the slide catch back in. after an hour i found your video and you saved my evening. thank you very much for your generosity with your time.

  • never have a gun arround a cat if you have ever seen the movie BoonDaock Saints but im sure your alot safer than they are acording to ur video lol

  • That movie is awesome...

    "And Shepherds we shall be

    For thee, my Lord, for thee.

    Power hath descended forth from Thy hand

    Our feet may swiftly carry out Thy commands.

    So we shall flow a river forth to Thee

    And teeming with souls shall it ever be.

    In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti."

  • That was a revolver that killed the cat, so the hammer must've been pulled back.

  • Some revolvers are DA

  • Yeah. Actually most revolvers are, with the exception of the "cowboy" SA.

  • Hey just a piece of advice , dont dtotre the mags with ammo in them unless u store it in a drawer next to you or u have a ccw, anyways just mentioning because wen u took out your mag I saw a round at the top, just sayin

  • I know, thanks for the advice, but I mentioned below what happened. I filmed this video right after another one, which I why I had the magazine there in the first place...but I don't store this gun, I carry it daily.

  • i'm going to pick up the same gun this tuesday I can't wait..ye hey...

  • you should use a brass tool instead...wont mar your finish that way... but useful video.

  • My mainspring housing is of an older model that does not have the I.L.S. system. I do have the little notch for the L bar, but I cant get it to go in with hammer up, or down. Is there something different with the older model milspecs?

  • Well done. Nice 1911

  • great video, good instruction!

  • Excellent well thought out and produced series. Very helpful. Thank you.

  • excellent vid - replacing the trigger & hammer on my 1911A1 and this helped out tremedously!

  • Thanks a lot for this video.

    I have wanted to be able to clean my 1911 better than a simple field-stripping and cleaning with permit.

    Taking the 1911 apart and reassemblying the 1911 have always been daunting tasks to me.

  • you got a lot of background/ambient noise (sounds like a fan is blowing at you) and why is the camera always shaking?

    otherwise well done.

  • I like this video, its been very helpful. i was wondering what the steps are to changing the trigger, hammer and beavertail. i have the GI model, can i just swap the parts when i put it back together or do i need some special tools?

  • You'll have to watch for probably 2 things: 1) Some triggers are longer or shorter and will not work or cause problems 2) Certain beavertail grip safeties need some work to fit properly. If the bar inside is too short, the safety will be disabled...too long and the gun might not fire. There's some fitting required for certain ones. There are some parts which are sort of "universal" that need minimal or no fitting. I'd try reading the manufacture's product description before purchasing parts.

  • Hilton Yam may have a thing or 2 to say about your order of operation on the slide removal, but I say well done sir!

  • Thanks. And yes, there are different ways. Some people remove the slide before the recoil spring. There's no right way, it's just a preference. I do both ways.

  • that is a sexy gun. do you have any other guns besides the ruger security six or desert eagle that you can make detail strips on? maybe a SIG or cz-75?

  • Well, an XD I guess. I don't have my M&P anymore.

  • the loaded looks so much better

  • I do like the loaded, but the reason I didn't get that was model was 1.) The extra cost, I feel, is not worth it for what you get and 2.) The front serrations are stupid, have NO purpose, and tear up the inside of your holster. I do admit though, it IS a very nice gun.

  • oh well i like 1911s in general but i'm also a fan of silver/nickel whatever you wanna call the color, yeah i suppose if you had a leather holster it would mess that shit up hard, but what about like kydex?

  • I love Kydex. The Hybrid Kydex/Leather is wonderful. The Kydex retains it's shape, is an exact fit, and slides in and out nicely, while the leather is of course pliable to conform and more comfortable.

  • Thanks for the videos korn! I would say, I do appreciate front serrations. In low light combat, having the front serrations help me use both hands to pull the slide back just enough to feel brass...

  • I disagree, I also think the serades in the front look a little too over the top. I much prefer the classic look. Nothing flashy...but thats just me. I think I'm either going to get the GI or the Milspec. Out of curiousity, how much did you get the milspec for korn?

  • I got mine for like $599+ tax for the parkerized...the stainless is more, I think around 700 (but I might be wrong). I went into a spiel somewhere about the MilSpec/GI differences. The cheaper GI might be a better way to go for a lot of people...especially if you plan on customizing in the future.

  • Good to know parkerized is cheaper. I like it better than stainless. Isn't the only difference the sights? I like the mil spec sights a little better. If the price gap isn't too drastic, i'd get the mil spec

  • Well, there are some minor differences like the sights, the lowered/flared ejection port, a higher hand grip, angled slide serrations, the grip panels, beveled magazine well, polished feed ramp. The reason for me not getting the GI was because I knew from the start I wasn't going to be customizing very much. Stainless is always wonderful (especially in Hollywood movies) but as a self defense gun I personally want 1.) No glare and 2.) no sight haze that I associate with stainless steel guns.

  • Yea. I probably won't be customizing much, or at all, either. So the mil spec sounds like the way to go then. Thanks for the info.

  • i have gotten to the part where you remove your grip safety but mine DOES NOT just slide out like yours i release the hammer but it will not come out no matter how much i move it around and i have the exact same 1911 as you

  • well, i fixed the problem, for some reason my grip safety did not want to come out, i had to take out the mainspring housing first before it would slide out like yours did

    it might be because mine is completely broken in yet, who knows, great video(s) by the way though, very helpful

  • those. are. the most beutiful freaking grips if seen in my whole life!!

  • Yeah, Springfield makes some nice grips. The mil-specs come with Cocobola (exotic hardwood) grips that actually feel pretty nice. I'm all for a nice set of rubber or crimson trace, etc. but nothing really seams to beat a nice wooden pair.

  • Hey, where are those bubbly pop up video sounds for your captions?

  • VH1 threatened to sue me and sell my kids on the black market to China for copywrite infringment if I used them.

  • Hey..good video. Im an expert on other types of weaponry like the M16, M9, and some towed artillery. This video helped me a lot. My Mil-spec is old as dirt and it needs work to keep it sexy. If you got more video's let me know.

  • that is a very good clip how do u know how to strip a 1911 like that.

    but thanks for the info. i will try it.

  • I think most people who are first attempting a 1911 strip are surprized how easy it is after doing it a couple times. I learned just by taking everything out 1 part at a time, paying attention where everything goes...then just reversed it. Any info I ever give to people is simply based on my observations from shooting one.

    Thanks

  • to korn1536, i have found that for me, it is easier to remove the slide, THEN, remove the recoil spring, spring guide, barrel and bushing. hope that makes your job a little easier. :)

  • You know I've seen some people do it that way, too. As I was telling the person above, some 1911s you HAVE to do it that way (i.e. ones with a 2-piece guide rod). I'd encourage people to try both ways to see which works best for them.

    Thanks!

  • Good video man. Would this vid be usefful in disassembling/reassembling a newer model Para Ordnance 1911 also?! Good vid!

  • Yeah, I believe most 1911 disassemblies are about the same, with slight differences. The Para for example, will probably come with a 2-piece guide rod (i.e. wart hog) or a full length guide rod. You have to pull the slide back with the spring, pull the slide release, THEN remove the slide and recoil spring, etc. on some models. Some 1911s have a hex tool for the guide rod. But yes, most clones copy the same disassembly.

  • There's model 70s and 80's and the 80's have a firing pin block. You have to depress the little pin under the slide in order to remove the firing pin (which also results in the use of another spring). That's another difference.

  • This is to korn1536, What do you think of the Taurus 1911B?

  • LIKE: 8+1 mag/bump pad, "custom" features like lightened trigger, hammer, beavertail grip, flared ejection port, sights, extended/ambi thumb safety, flat mainspring housing, and checkered front strap/trigger guard. DISLIKES: Front slide serrations (useless and may beat-up your holster if you carry), and the full length guide rod (FLGL). The FLGR does absolutely nothing. I would personally change it out to a "GI-style", that way you can do 1-hand clearing. Unless this is not a defensive gun.

  • If you do carry the front serrations wont hurt anything it might just beat the holster a little. If you dont carry with it then the serrations are great. If its a carry gun you can depress the nose of the gun 1-handed to clear/reload a round if you needed to (that's if you DONT have a FLGR). I know American Rifleman gave good reviews and a lot of owners gave good reviews. One had a mag problem (it came apart after 500 rnds) but they shipped it back and got a replacement one from Taurus for free.

  • Wow.. this is why i like glocks haha

    but that sure is a nice looking gun

  • Yeah, the Glocks and XDs are very simple to field strip. This "complete" strip would be just like a "after 5000 round" type of thing. Preventative maintanence...like changing a fan belt in your car.

  • I own a Springfield GI that I've upgraded w/ a 4 1/2 pound trigger, hogue grips, beveled mag well, all the springs replaced with Wilson Combat springs, night sights, and two Wilson Combat 8 rnd. mags. Including the cost of the pistol it cost me under $725. I almost opted for the mil-spec but I thought against it. And like you said the lowered and flared ejection port isn't too necessary. Nice vid, btw. 5/5 stars.

  • Thanks. I like the GI because it is definitely more faithful to the original design. I like the vertical slide serrations as well. A lot of the "extras" really aren't necessary on the mil-spec, but I do like the cocobola grips and a few other things. Thanks for pointing out to the people that think GIs are "plain" that there's nothing you can't do to the GI to upgrade them; in fact, I like these styles better than say the Operator because I hate the goofy looking front serrations, and for $725.

  • You and just a few of my friends (and myself) agree on the same exact specs you talked about on the GI. I'm a fan of the vertical slide serrations as well as the other classic parts. I can definitely see why people may prefer the newer parts to the older but, for the sake of keeping it real here, the human body can't pick up on the faster .000001 of a second lock time of a skeletal hammer (as just one example). Happy shooting!!

  • Thanks. I like the GI's better with the US on the grips; call me patriotic. One of my favorites is the digital camo laser-grips Kimber uses. I use the cheap one's you're referring to most, however. They have aggressive checkering (molding I'll say), very durable, black (no glare), waterproof, easily replaceable...perfect for CCW. If some kids I've seen spent as much time shooting as they do buying and showing off expensive crap for their guns, they might actually hit a target once in awhile.

  • Love the grips on it, mine are some cheep plain flimsy plastic crap... :P

    Thanks for the vid, very educational :D

  • how much did this 1911A1 cost??

  • I got mine new awhile ago for about $600 and some. It took several months for me to find; I had to drive about 2 hours to a further Gander Mountain to find mine. They've been allocated by Springfield, so the smaller dealers just don't have them. Some areas of the country do, however, depending on location. The basic GI version is a better deal in my opinion, especially if you plan on upgrading anyway. I like STI, Rock Island, and Sig's versions, as well. I personally will not buy Kimber or Colt.

  • thanks for that you have been a good help. i am also curious on what the gun laws in america are relating to pistols because i am a resident of australia.

  • Gun laws are pretty lenient but each state decides the laws. The capitol of Washington D.C. has a handgun ban, but I live in Ohio where you can walk down the street or into a store with one on your side. States like California limit number of rounds your handgun can hold. Here in Ohio I took a class for a license to carry your gun concealed, with unlimited rounds. I know someone from Australia (Brisbon) who loved shooting when they came over here because of the very lenient laws in most states.

  • Good video 5/5*, I have just one question...

    (long pause)

    Did you have the camera mounted to your head or shoulder? Interesting perspective.

  • I sprinkle fairy dust on my camera, and when it thinks happy thoughts it just hovers above me. Don't believe me? Ok, actually I have a swinging-arm fluorescent light (the kind like doctors use with a magnifier). I just sit a digital camera on top of that, but as you can see doesn't always work out that well because it gets bumped a lot.

  • Very helpful video, I was fairly lost after a basic field strip. I must ask though:

    I own a Springfield GI. 45 1911, and aside from the beveled magazine well and the dot sights, most differences between the guns seem cosmetic. I've shot milspecs before and I didn't notice any significant differences there either. As an owner, would you say the Milspec is worth the considerable amount of extra cash?

  • Personally I dont think its really worth it unless you happen to have the extra $. It has a lowered & flared ejection port but that really doesnt help make ejection much better in my opinion. The sights on the GI can be replaced with night ones. The angled slide serrations dont help any, a magwell can be installed on the GI, and grips can be replaced (I personally like the US grips however. If you do any upgrades I think the GI is the way to go. Im not doing anything to mine so I got the milspec

  • Nice video very good information on disassembly...you went further than I thought you were going to!

  • nice video alot more then i thougth in that gun

  • Very nice job - a big help. Perfection would be if you used the actual part names/terms in all places instead of saying "this" or "that here" for things that you are extremely familiar with.

    Thanks!

  • Yeah, I agree, I could have been more specific with part names, but that wasn't my point at the time.  I'll leave that job as part of the fun for other people!

    Thanks

  • damn that's alot im going to buy this gun real soon, this is alot more work than my xd

  • Yeah, the XD field strip is super easy. I mean the 1911 field strip is really easy, too...you would just do this every once it a while. I don't do a full disassembly for my daily clean. I just do a daily field strip.

  • Wow. You went farther than most people who do these type of videos. Good work. You are commmended. I'm going to watch part 2 right now.

  • Great Instructions!!!! I just followed all of your instructions to the "T" in stripping down my Mil-Spec. Prior to soaking everything in Hoppes #9, I followed your re-assembly instructions and stripped it down again - Piece of cake with your help.

  • Just got the same gun, love the video, but I cant get the grip safety out, any suggestions?

  • Just make sure the thumb safety is completely out first, and make sure the hammer is up all the way. If all else fails, remove everything else that you can that is around it first...like the mainspring housing (by using the Springfield provided bent little pin) and the hammer. If it's still won't come out, then something is really wrong, because it should plop very easily out. Good luck...Let me know what happens.

  • I dont think a pro could do any better,gave it 5 stars.

  • man that gun looks tiny in them big ol paws!

  • wow thanks for this video, taught me many things about the 1911

  • thanks

  • man great video, i did a detail strip on my mil-spec 1911a1, would have been alot easier if i saw your video first, but i took my time and all is good....i am sure your video will help alot of people.........later

  • Well I bet it will loosen up over time. happy shooting with your Mil-spec!

  • Very nice looking Mil-spec. I own a GI myself. When you first received your Mil-Spec, was your thumb safety very tight like other mil-specs?

  • Yeah, the thumb safety is still pretty tight. I guess its the plunger spring and the tight fitting pin that keeps it in so tight. All the other pins but that one loosened after the first couple times they were taken out.

  • This video will show the complete disassembly of the slide and frame. My other videos part 2 and 3 will show the reassembly. Sorry for the shaking, sometimes dark video.

Loading...
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more