I ended up getting some DC-DC converters from Ebay a while ago that worked well. They were 100 watt rated, and can take between 28-75 VDC in and put a constant voltage out. I put some in parallel to increase the power handling capability.
I know this is older post but this caught my interest as we have blown up several circuits with our PMA.voltage spikes. What are you using for the dc - dc converter to control it at 30 vdc out .?
Good point. This can be done, and in fact at the inception of this circuit I had to play with values for the "R" and "C" values to adjust it's response. Thanks for pointing that out.
I am wanting to develop my own charging system. Is there any way you could provide a list of the items you are using along with a wiring diagram? I understand that I will not hold you responsible for any information you provide. It would save me a ton of research.
I don't have a schematic per se of my setup, just a block diagram at the moment. The only circuitry I have built for it so far is the relay-based over voltage circuit you hear in the videos, and the schottkey diode bridge rectifier. I used some DC-DC converters off of ebay to help deal with the fluctuating voltages from wind turbines. I'll shoot you a message to see if I can help....
I have updated the system a little bit from where it was before. It now has 3 individual bulbs that are rated for 150 watts each. They are controlled from the rectified voltage side, and are switched in on the un-rectified side. So I have one 150 watt bulb per phase. This keeps the load on the turbine constant on all 3 phases, and eliminates rectifying the energy just to dump it with the control circuit.
@depravedpuma I have also upgraded to a 800 watt Missouri Wind and Solar Patriot rotor. From experimentation I believe the 500 watt slant core plus rotor is actually more powerful though, so I don't recommend spending the extra cash on the MW&S Patriot rotor. To answer your question, if the bulbs burnt out, the rotor would be able to spin alot faster, and the output voltage to the DC-DC converters would be higher than they need to have. They are however over voltage protected.
I ended up getting some DC-DC converters from Ebay a while ago that worked well. They were 100 watt rated, and can take between 28-75 VDC in and put a constant voltage out. I put some in parallel to increase the power handling capability.
josh8loop 9 months ago
I know this is older post but this caught my interest as we have blown up several circuits with our PMA.voltage spikes. What are you using for the dc - dc converter to control it at 30 vdc out .?
askedsvp 10 months ago
@Doug3445
Good point. This can be done, and in fact at the inception of this circuit I had to play with values for the "R" and "C" values to adjust it's response. Thanks for pointing that out.
josh8loop 1 year ago
I am wanting to develop my own charging system. Is there any way you could provide a list of the items you are using along with a wiring diagram? I understand that I will not hold you responsible for any information you provide. It would save me a ton of research.
razorob1959 1 year ago
@razorob1959
I don't have a schematic per se of my setup, just a block diagram at the moment. The only circuitry I have built for it so far is the relay-based over voltage circuit you hear in the videos, and the schottkey diode bridge rectifier. I used some DC-DC converters off of ebay to help deal with the fluctuating voltages from wind turbines. I'll shoot you a message to see if I can help....
josh8loop 1 year ago
what would happen if the bulbs burned out while you were away and it couldn't dump to the bulbs??
depravedpuma 1 year ago
@depravedpuma
I have updated the system a little bit from where it was before. It now has 3 individual bulbs that are rated for 150 watts each. They are controlled from the rectified voltage side, and are switched in on the un-rectified side. So I have one 150 watt bulb per phase. This keeps the load on the turbine constant on all 3 phases, and eliminates rectifying the energy just to dump it with the control circuit.
josh8loop 1 year ago
@depravedpuma I have also upgraded to a 800 watt Missouri Wind and Solar Patriot rotor. From experimentation I believe the 500 watt slant core plus rotor is actually more powerful though, so I don't recommend spending the extra cash on the MW&S Patriot rotor. To answer your question, if the bulbs burnt out, the rotor would be able to spin alot faster, and the output voltage to the DC-DC converters would be higher than they need to have. They are however over voltage protected.
josh8loop 1 year ago
kool wish I could share this with ChunxofEarth
BeLIEeve196 1 year ago
man i am trying to find a list of parts for voltage controller pls be kind thanks and god bless
seancholo 1 year ago
Basicly you have created a Hybrid controller( i think). great stuff!
daveydee1998 1 year ago
Well aren't you a smart cookie. Pretty neat stuff.
natedogg1026 1 year ago
Thanks for the nice comments fellas, much appreciated!! I will keep this thing moving forward the best I can.
josh8loop 1 year ago
Great video thanks for all the info.TAKE CARE
michael970 1 year ago
Very interesting video... I look forward to future installments and the progress of your wind power circuit.
TheFLNative 1 year ago