Added: 1 year ago
From: ClickRec
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  • Is the camera mirrored or is that a lefty saxophone???

  • @Vapor419 - Haha! Mirror image. Best wishes - John

  • Which one do you like better? Selmer Ref 36 OR K-werth

  • @MasterBlasterRGR - Flip a coin, very different but both great. I had a Ref 36 for a while and really liked it. Scale-wise it's not as precise as the Keilwerth but jazz-wise it's not as "loose" as an SBA. Ref 36 ergonomics are more comfortable than the JK. But the JK is a beast in its own way. Like a 10M with modern mechanics. Also, I've never played a more in-tune horn than a modern JK. Esp ser# 120xxx and higher. Ref 36 might have a more all-purpose appeal. Just my opinion.

  • @ClickRec I really admire your attitude and common sense approach to everything making difficult things simple rather than vice versa. However, I would like to know what you have tried in saxophones at the top and what you are looking for. If you have more than one tenor saxophone I assume that money is no problem in playing the sax you most like. So have you tried the Selmer Paris Super Action 80 Series III A64 solid sterling silver tenor? My approach is more like the strings. There is only two

  • @proSpiritofTruth contd choices as I understand it, at the top, Stradivarius or Guernarius. Why? Because they simply are streets ahead in providing the best instrument for reflecting the wishes of the best players. As I see it, on tenor sax especially, there are really mainly two competing facors artistically, resonance and harmonic richness/complexity. Solid sterling silver conducts the best for resonance and gold or platinum of all elements on the periodic table is the only materials that does

  • @ClickRec contd wonders, say on solid gold or platinum flutes filling great musiic halls.I have heard one myself live and it is unbelieveable and understandable why they have paid US$100,000 for decades.The same player could never do that on even a solid sterling silver flute. However, the much thicker wooden flutes are as superior texture wise as teh solid gold or platinum flutes are for harmic order in increased complexity resulting in room filling ambience and unbelieveable projection cont

  • @Click Rec contd so the intermediate answer for me was to get a solid sterling silver tenor in a design with the best ergonomics I have seen so far, polish the inside bore and gold plate the inside bore. I received it on 22nd December, 2010 and it absolutely creams myKingSuper20 Silversonic s/n 719736 which I had the body and neck so silver plated that it is just as thick today as in1979, and a wash of gold on the inside of the s/s bell. I have a spun cast solid sterling silver vintage J&D Hite

  • @ClickRec which David Hite himself suggested I do when he was not able to do it himself in 1994, but when I got back to him in 2003 shortly before he died he put me on to Ralph Morgan who had been facing another Australain's solid sterling silver mouthpieces,BrendanTibbs, however,sadly Ralph too passed away in 006 but by then he had shared much invaluable knowledg with me. Spin casting in sterling silver in the thick body design of a Hite or Meyer rod rubber is the best for hard core to the tone

  • @ClickRec by tuning one's body cavities to the mouthipece and saxophone with long notes and heaps of chromiatic scales on a regulare basis, one can get the edge of King Curtis with the polish of Plas Johnson, bothBerg Larsen players with extra wide tip openings on an open chamber like a preBabbitt rod rubber Hite or a pre Babbitt (bell metal) SupetoneOtto Link tenor mouthpiece especially using Vandoren Java 2.5s or a rare good Rico Royal 2.5. I have recently changed after forty years to Vandoren

  • @proSpiritofTruth I have more than one sax because I bought them over the last 35+ years. I don't have a lot of money and do have to sell off a horn or two from time to time. But never the SBA or the SX90NS. I never tried a silver Series 3 but played a brass Series 3 and thought it was great. Thank you for commenting. Best wishes - John

  • Hi ClickRec. Thank you for posting a great video... May I ask what is your mouthpiece set up?

  • @wilfredoalfaro - Mouthpiece is a Ponzol M2 120. Reed is hand made, modeled after a Guardala Brecker Premium #4.

  • Hi ClickRec, what do you mean by lipping down?

  • @Passion613 - lipping down means slightly loosening your embouchure in order to bring the pitch down. This is done in combination with pulling your tongue slightly back to lower the pitch, similar to the way you would when you change notes when you're whistling or bending a note on a blues harmonica, but very slight by comparison. If you tune the horn sharp by a quarter tone you must compensate by lipping down a quarter tone. For more see "Tune Your Selmer Tenor a Little Bit Sharp". Best wishes!

  • Could you explain your tonguing method for those super fast notes?

  • @Passion613 He's just using the correct articulations at a higher speed.

  • @Passion613 - I learned how to jazz-tongue from listening to Sonny Stitt. Basically, you're tonguing the up beats and slurring through the down beats. Tonguing is fairly light. Also, the Lennie Neihaus books are a great place to start if you are new to jazz phrasing.

  • Hi ClickRec, I'm Shirish from SOTW. Any suggestions on where I can buy an SX90 neck? I just bought the body for a song.. 250$! A dream come true, but only if I can get a neck! I put an ad in the wanted section, but no luck at all. I contacted Kessler, but they didn't get back to me.

  • @sackadoodle: Yes, SX90 necks are not easy to find lately. I see more copper necks on the used market than NS or standard brass, but I don't care much for the sound of the copper neck. For TENOR, try a Ref 36 neck - see vid. You'd have to have the tenon stretched, but it's a great match. For ALTO only a Keilwerth neck works well. I've tried many others - NG. Also, try contacting Ponzol through his website to see if what he makes would work on a JK. No one knows more about Keilwerths than Ponzol.

  • @ClickRec Thank you! Very helpful. I bet reference necks are easier to find used.

  • @ClickRec Thank you so much, ClickRec. You play with such precise intonation that I can completely trust your advice.

    I might be getting the Ref36 neck. What is meant by "stretch" the tenon? Do you mean I have to make it longer so that it meets the inner border? Or do you mean I have to make it broader so it doesn't fit loosely?

    Ponzol unfortunately, didn't help, he said he only makes Selmer and Yamaha style necks, so that's out. Boesken and Gloger are outta my budget!

  • @sackadoodle - The Selmer tenon is smaller than the Keilwerth receiver. So you'll have to stretch it to get a snug fit. Have your tech do it a little at a time so you don't crack the brass. If you want to try the Ref neck first, a piece of sturdy paper should make it fit tight enough to make it playable long enough to test the neck. Also check out my video - HOW TO CHOOSE AN ALTERNATE SAXOPHONE NECK.

  • Me again...is there any other professional adjustments you can make on Keiwerths to make them better? I'd like to ask my tech to apply those adjustments if there are any...especially in the action dept.

  • @Passion613 - here's a description of the modifications I had done to my JK.

    h t t p : backslash backslash forum(dot)saxontheweb(dot)net/­showthread.php?96902-Try-this-­SX90-SX90R-modification!

  • what is a klose ex?

  • Klose - 25 Daily Exercises for Saxophone. Try Amazon

  • I love how fast you play..is there a technique to how you play those notes so fast...?

  • @Passion613 - Practice very slowly. I can't emphasize it enough. Klose exercises are fun and easier than you think. If you practice them slowly on a daily basis you will improve tremendously. Repetition is important as well. Don't go to page two till you learn page one.

  • I've noticed that on my sx90r..my high f# is flat.....any advice?

  • @Passion613 - You're probably using the Front F fingering with the F# side key. This is flat on Keilwerths. Better to use the palm keys with the F# side key. But if you prefer the Front F - Side F# combination then you may have to have your F# key cup raised about 1/8th inch.

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