Added: 10 months ago
From: TheWoodWhisperer
Views: 39,106
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  • That was a damn good video sir

    Mark-

    If you were working real long hours to complete a project(s) how many hours a week would you put in aroundish

  • @pberglin 60 maybe

  • Marc,

    hochbob pretty much summed up most of what I wanted to say. You present great videos without the users feeling as if you are talking down to them. You stress safety, confidence and practical information, often with reasoning behind your actions. You are giving a whole new audience of aspiring woodworkers a great foundation for a lifelong persuit of a wonderful craft! Even seasoned veterans like myself benefit from your demonstrations. My thanks to you for what you are doing!

  • Hi; Firstly excellent video. It appears that you have to remove the blade guard to use this jig or am I missing something? My Sears table saw has anti kickback claws on the blade guard so the rear board would have to be cut all the way through, weakening the jig. However, even by cutting all the way through once the kickback claws engage I can't reverse the jig. What am I missing? Many thanks, Ian Kennedy.

  • @kennjak generally speaking, most folks do remove the blade guard. If you have a simple riving knife or splitter setup, you shouldn't need to remove it. But if you have a plastic guard and anti kickback pawls, you will need to remove the guard assembly.

  • That last bit with the sliding stop block was slick.

  • Excellent video - thanks!

  • How can you afford these things!

  • @badopinion Plywood???

  • Excelente me gusto mucho, que buen trabajo.

    saludos, Henry de Venezuela.

  • Very nice. Good useable ideas. Thanks

  • Are you kidding? sponsored by Powermatic. Looks like they own you. Man I'd like to owned like that. Saw sleds are awesome, been using one for years in pro cabinet shop. Very handy for large panels if you make a real big one.

  • @jonahguitarguy So I have lots of powermatic tools....do they own me, or do I own them? ~Evil grin~

  • thats a small square

  • I came to this thinking i was going to be tought how to make a snow sled? lol

  • Marc or who ever can help me I tried building one but I encounter a problem at least for me it is my slots are a little weird looking and I don't know how to make the runners for it I have a Skil 3400 table saw is there a store where i can buy metal runners for my table saw or can you or anyone can tell me how to make them I'll truly appreciate it since I'm new to this thanks.

  • @Diabloscampeones9 I can help ya out if you give me a bit more info on your mitre slots and in what way they are "weird".

  • How big should the sled be? Is there a formula based off the size of your table saw?

  • @techoer1 Not really. I like to make mine roughly the size of the cast iron portion. You can really go as big as you want, assuming it is nice and stable. Drawback being the bigger you go, the harder it can be to move on and off the saw.

  • I made mine about 2 weeks ago. My error is about .009 over 80" though. That was the best I could get it after about 15 adjustments. I will try to get it better later.

  • @seanrubino I think I'd be happy with that result! :)

  • @seanrubino I think I'd be happy with that result! :)

  • Thanks for the tips. I continue to work on this and my push board continues to be a degree or so off. Really not sure why??? Should I use something besides 2 X 4 for the backing/pushboard?

  • @whitedeer22 I would use a couple sheets of ply glued together. But 8/4 hardwood will work too. But wood tends to move over time so you may need to make an adjustment. That's why I prefer the plywood.

  • Marc, great sled squaring technique. I look forward to using it on my next sled and to check my current ones too. The runner grain orientation is a good idea. I use mostly ruff lumber and never checked how the runners lined up. Just happy they fit.

  • Seems like steel or aluminum would be better for the runners.

  • @tzkelley Sure, but its a lot more work/cost.

  • @tzkelley HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene) or similar plastics make for good runners too. My local "fine woodwork" tool store sells strips specifically for this purpose. They're not affected by humidity changes and seem to last longer than hard wood runners.

  • @tzkelley actually nylon or block silicone is best

  • I thought he meant a snow sled.

  • Hey Marc, Thanks for the rad videos! I've never seen that last technique before, that's a pretty cool idea! anyway, keep up the dope video's.

  • Where did you get the spacer for making the minute adjustment on the rear fence?

  • @CassysDad That's just a standard set of feeler gauges. I believe mine are from Lee Valley.

  • @CassysDad You can buy them at any auto store. Mechanics use them for spark plug spacers.

  • LOL "Crazy good".

    That little 5 sided cutting test to multiply the out of squareness is pretty clever idea! Of all the years I have of working in professional shops I have never seen that before. One of the crazy quirks of woodworking that I always find facsinating is that no matter how many tips and tricks you think know there is a crap ton you don't know. LOL

  • Great job Mark. Very thorough narration and demonstration technique , as usual.

  • Im looking at getting an MFT3 to use with my TS55, whats your opinion on them for cutting square and working with Melamine?

  • @guerd87 Like I said in the video, a "game changer". I love my MFT and for making nice square cuts on larger sheetgoods, its hard to beat.

  • Using the right kind of hard plastic materiel for the runners works much better then hardwood. There is no seasonal movement and it's self lubricating.

  • WOW Marc at the end you made it ! thank you so much for sharing your helpful knowledge. This is a essential vid for all level woodworkers, Kool ! keep it up

  • Mark: Thank you, I’ve wanted to make the most of my table saw, now that I understand how to true up a crosscut sled. I can’t wait to start my next project. Jay Jay

  • Marc,

    This is the best and easiest method I have seen for creating a crosscut sled. I have been needing a new one but dreading making one since getting them accurate in the past was such a chore. I know what I'm doing now this weekend.

    I have to say you've been killing it lately! Great stuff.

    Tim

  • Marc, I have learned more from you than David, Norm, Tommy, and all the rest put together! Your generousity is matched only by your talent to build and teach. Thanks for all you do for the woodworking world.

  • @hochbob that's high praise! Thank YOU!

  • And I thought MY tablesaw fence was messy.

  • Great video bro....your shop really looks nice. Any possibility having a video tour. I apologies if you have already done one and I missed it.

  • @WestCoastMods Yup. We'll definitely do a new tour. Looks like I won't get all the cabs installed until after the next Guild Build. But for sure, we'll do a little "open house". :)

  • @WestCoastMods Looking forward to it...from what I can already see is it looks amazing....especially with all your high-end equipment. But, just like they say in photography, it's not the camera that makes a great photo,..... it's the person behind the camera...same thing goes with woodworking, and any other form of art.

    And you work is amazing, and your video's are....well what can I say......I know a lot of work goes into them...and it shows. Keep it up bro!

    LazyMan

  • Its funny..I've just bought my first table saw( ridgid r4512) and I've been searching all over for the right sled to make and you've helped me make that decision with one similar to yours but as not as big...I do have a question though, I don't ever see any blade guards on any of the sleds I've seen online. Does this mean they are fairly safe without a guard?

    Thanks again man, your vids rock.

  • @ronemarshall if you look hard enough, you should start to come across some with guards. Some people like to have them as an extra safety precaution. While I do consider the sled fairly safe, it is definitely safer with a guard. But I personally prefer no guard while employing safe practices.

  • @TheWoodWhisperer Thank you, sir! :)

  • @ronemarshall stevinmarin on youtube made a video to make a cross-cut sled with blade guards

  • Thank you for the help, good job

  • Thanks so much, this was a great video. Your approach to squaring the fence was fantastic. You mentioned possible fence instability - what do you think about having a horiz fence in back to support the vert fence? It would look like this back to front =|_______|_

  • @linuxguy42 Definitely nothing wrong with that. But if your fence is made with decent thick stock and your screws get a good bite, you should be fine. Seems like an interesting precaution to take though. I'd like to see someone try that.

  • I like all your videos! Although I'm not a woodworker but I highly appreciate and enjoy this kind of work!

  • Hello, is that I take as a helper? I love working with wood and my dream is to open a woodworking on my own .. Can I ask if the lathe is yours ? Thank

  • @Efrem2011 Its in my shop so it better be mine. :)

  • As always great videos and great technique. Keep up the great work Mark.

  • this may sond mad but wunder it band saw one whod work as i have not got table saw,i ues band saw for all my cuting

  • @will76736 The real trick would be making sure your blade is cutting parallel to the miter slot on the bandsaw. Most don't. So you might need an adjustable fence than can be calibrated whenever you need to. But sure, its definitely possible.

  • What are your opinions on metal runners or UHMW plastic runners as apposed to using hardwood?

  • @Hildenbrands Both are great options. I just went with hardwood to make the sled as easy to build with standard shop materials. But definitely nothing wrong with giving your runners an upgrade.

  • Marc, is there any advantage to having the front fence and would putting a handle near the back help with ease of use etc, and also would there be any drawback to having a sled huge in size, say 6 to 8 feet wide

    Thanks

  • @IrishWoodDoctor The front fence helps hold the unit together and keep things rigid. So I definitely recommend using one. I don't feel there is really any need for a handle, unless you are using hold downs and clamp to secure your pieces. And you can make your sled as big as you want, but it becomes very difficult to handle the bigger it gets.

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