@muchogoocho Well, I didn't want to create an environmental disaster by legally allowing all the junk washed off the engine bay to enter the storm sewers, ending up in the river that runs right past my house and on to the lakes which supply our drinking water. I'm not that irresponsible. Additionally there was the issue of not being able to move the car outside due to the shop door being blocked by a 1st gen undergoing an FC subframe swap.
@muchogoocho Until I got the fenders off, there didn't seem to be a need to remove the dash. Plus, I had space concerns in the shop and didn't have anywhere to actually put the stuff once removed.
all the positive comments should be a little bit motivating but we know your doing it to have a bad ass sleeper!!! dude your videos are my motivation and thanks for taking the time and educating the ignorant...ROTARYlove
my rx7 FC has just had a new paint job, now I got the fun job of putting the interior back in, but i think yours is going to be a little more of a nightmare lol, keep up the goof work!
Hi there iam Tariq from New Zealand and i am really inspired by your workmanship you are one amazing guy ,plz show us part 17 and good luck with rest of build .
@jefa1234 Episode 17 is about 60% edited. It will likely be posted soon, though I make no promises of exactly when. Remember, I'm one guy doing all the work to the car on evenings and weekends, plus dealing with the rest of my life and editing the videos. :-)
@aaroncake You are one awesome guy doing al the work. I already respected you for your website with the rx info before this series, but now I'm a downright fan! Keep up the good work. You really make me wish I had a proper garage/workshop to work in.
@WesternRx5 This is the first time I have heard of Falcon brake parts being used on a Cosmo. Is there anything besides machining the hubs for 5 lug that is needed?
@WesternRx5 Thank you for the info! That's something I'm certainly going to look into. I was having visions of having to head to the wrecking yard and manually measure every 5 lug rotor that looked like it would fit.
its candid moments like watching you remove the dash and seeing all those wires that, im thankful to have a painless wiring harness installed on my RX2. LOL better you than me.... anywho coming along great man, look forward too the next update!!
@diverseent I'm considering using a Painless harness but concerned that I would spend more time adapting it to the stock Mazda switchgear than just dealing with any issues in the stock harness. Luckily, the dash harness is basically untouched. The horrible wiring was additional stuff for the stereo. The engine harness was mangled but it won't be reused. The body harness seems basically OK as well.
@aaroncaket if its intact you should keep the stock stuff, when i got my car the entire dash and interior was gutted, it used to be a track car so i didnt have a choice.
Wow! Great videos! Thank you, I really love learning watching you working. Keep doing your famous running gags on 'that's what she said' or 'there is never enough vaseline in a hole' or something like that...this is so funny!
My english is not to good but I think you can understand :D
@naireland Well, it looks like I'm stuck doing some sheet metal work for the next little while in the engine bay area before I can even think of priming, painting and then reinstalling the engine. Which is too bad, because it's the mechanical work that I really enjoy and I'm not very fond of body work. Once I get into the engine and drivetrain fabrication, that's where things get interesting.
@aaroncake fixing a rusted chassis isn't much fun especially when you've got sheet metal riveted all over the fenders and wheel wells lol, what a mess. Should all pay off though knowing you've got a sturdy rust free frame in the end though Personally i'm terrified of wiring harnesses, especially ones like yours where they crimped the hell out of everything.
@naireland Did some floor repairs over the past few days. Wiring is one of my favourite things to do, actually. I'm eager to start building the EFI harness but it will be a while...It will also be my first MS3 installation.
@captainfiercebeard Unfortunately no. Wire wheels just melt the stuff, or clog up quickly. Any type of abrasive I've tried just does the same. 3M stripping pads just clog as well. Eastwood Company makes an undercoating removal spray which I intend to try very soon. A combination of a putty knife and kerosene works quite well, but is very time consuming.
@jefa1234 Basically original but recovered with a more soft vinyl. And I suspect that I'll be modernizing the center console a bit with more contemporary controls as well as a double-DIN head unit.
I wish you were doing an American classic. Or German. Or Italian. Or English. Mazda?? And starting in that condition? Did someone pay you to take it off of their hands? You know iron scrap is around $300 a ton.
@strandwolf What makes those cars any more worth restoring than any other? And what's the point of starting off with a car that just needs a new paint job and a little interior work? If one is restoring a car, they should start with something that's going to offer a bit of a challenge. Plus when I'm done I'll have a car that I like, know every corner of, and will be absolutely unique on the road. Unlike the 50 Mustangs, Novas, Camaros, Chevelles, Vegas, whatever I see at every car show I attend.
@aaroncake well spoken. why be like everyone else... why not do something different. In new zealand, rotarys are very common on our roads. very nice motors!!
@aaroncake Haha lol:D. I'll be looking forward to the video of you blasting the living sh*t out of your front end with the upgraded compressor:D Do you have any idea when you will put that one online? Btw, I was wondering when I went through your website a while back, what kind of turbo you used on your Tiina? I'm looking for a suitable turbo on my street and trackdriven 12a. Would you have any idea of something that is work well?
@dondebest Not quite sure when I'll be blasting the front end. I need the shop to myself for a few days to do that, and I really should do some more work on the floor in the mean time. As for the RX-7, I'm running a GT4088R. For your 12A, assuming you want around 250-300HP, I'd say go with the GT3076 w/ .84 T3 turbine housing.
@aaroncake Thanks for your input, I was indeed aiming for around 250 hp. But wouldn't a .63 (or .64? correct me if I'm wrong) be more efficient in the lower rpm range? Since this car should still be somewhat driveable on the street, I can't go full out race-spec on it. So there should be some low-end torque present. Or would the .84 spool up quick enough to maintain that low end torque? P.s. What is your opinion on carbon apex seals?
@dondebest A .63 (or .64) T3 would be more suited to a small displacement piston engine. On a 12A with a street port, it would be an exhaust plug after about 4000 RPM. The .84 T3 would work quite well from 2000 RPM until 5500 RPM. Just don't make the ports too huge either. 12A stock exhaust ports are tiny but don't go much past 2nd gen timings when you port them. Keep the primary intake ports about the same, don't advance the secondaries too much. Carbon apex seals are for NA applications only.
@aaroncake Hey Aaron, thanks for the quick response:) I was thinking because of the small displacement in the 12a (and 13b for that matter), A .84 t3 would be overkill, but it seems I'm wrong (hey you live and you learn right?). I also didn't know about the carbon apex seals for that matter, that they are only suitable for NA applications. And thanks for the tip about the porting, I will look up the part about the 2nd gen timing. Thanks so much already for the good advice:).
@dondebest Rotary engines more much more air, and have much stronger exhaust pulses than piston engines. For example, the stock HT-18 on the 2nd gen is a .96 (or 90? I forget) turbine housing. My 4088R (full T4) is running a 1.06 housing (though the engine is bridgeported). If you go to a divided housing, than you could run something in the .90 range.
@aaroncake I didn't know that:D. I used to work at a shop called Dynotrack, it was a engine revision company, but we mainly concentrated on the preparation and complete assembly of drag-race engines (for rich kids who can't build their own stuff). Gotta say I love the wankel so far, don't have much experience with that, as you can probably tell. I probably won't go in the divided range, so I will stick to the .84. Again, thanks for your input, makes all the difference:).
@mdobilas Haha, I think if the car was shifting downward I'd be more concerned about it shifting downward on top of me. I suspect my body would prevent it from touching the battery. Either way, there's a fire extinguisher around somewhere...though probably not in easy reach if there is a car on top of me. The battery, of course, is there so I can open the doors. :-)
In response to your question about the mystery CPU wired into the dash harness, are there any part numbers on it? Part numbers for Mazda EFI ECUs always end in "18-881", as in "N326-18-881" for a S4NA. For carb'ed cars such as the Series 1 SA22C, their suffix (and D-code too) is "18-880". Send me the numbers you find on the box and I should be able to tell you what it is for, and possibly give you a pinout for the connector too. My rx7club username is akagis_white_comet
@tsherwoodrzero I'll have to check the numbers. But since internally it looks almost the same as the SA "ECU" so it appears to just control the emissions solenoids. In which case it can be removed. Mazda has always been nice about keeping the ECU to the engine only and not integrating dash functions so I'd be very surprised if it did anything but control the solenoids and ignition cut. I've checked the RX-4 FSM. Box isn't listed. Maybe REPU...
@tsherwoodrzero Just checked my wiring diagram for the car (hmm...maybe I should have done that earlier?) and it appears to simply be the ECU controlling the emissions/ignition. I'll have to verify by checking wire colours. That being the case, it can likely be removed freeing up a perfect space for the Megasquirt.
your seriously retarded for not fully disassembling first..
muchogoocho 4 months ago
@muchogoocho also do you know what a pressure washer is? and the outdoors? the two work well together. lol sorry its the internet i gotta troll you.
muchogoocho 4 months ago
@muchogoocho Well, I didn't want to create an environmental disaster by legally allowing all the junk washed off the engine bay to enter the storm sewers, ending up in the river that runs right past my house and on to the lakes which supply our drinking water. I'm not that irresponsible. Additionally there was the issue of not being able to move the car outside due to the shop door being blocked by a 1st gen undergoing an FC subframe swap.
aaroncake 4 months ago 2
@muchogoocho Until I got the fenders off, there didn't seem to be a need to remove the dash. Plus, I had space concerns in the shop and didn't have anywhere to actually put the stuff once removed.
aaroncake 4 months ago
ain't that amplifer?
MrKlemensas 4 months ago
@MrKlemensas ECU/control box for the emissions solenoids. Which is nice, because it means I can toss it away and use that spot for the Megasquirt.
aaroncake 4 months ago
all the positive comments should be a little bit motivating but we know your doing it to have a bad ass sleeper!!! dude your videos are my motivation and thanks for taking the time and educating the ignorant...ROTARYlove
fit420zzzzzz 5 months ago
@fit420zzzzzz It's true, they are and I appreciate the support and interest from everyone.
aaroncake 5 months ago
my rx7 FC has just had a new paint job, now I got the fun job of putting the interior back in, but i think yours is going to be a little more of a nightmare lol, keep up the goof work!
Julzilla 6 months ago
Awesome video....love your hair dude.
floodkiller2001 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
i can not find part 17 i love watching them car you help me find it please.
dandog47 6 months ago
i acn not find part 17 i love watching them car you help me find it please.
dandog47 6 months ago
@dandog47 Just visit my channel. Part 17 was posted July 26th.
aaroncake 6 months ago
Hi there iam Tariq from New Zealand and i am really inspired by your workmanship you are one amazing guy ,plz show us part 17 and good luck with rest of build .
MrEvol300 7 months ago
@MrEvol300 Part 17 was posted on Tuesday, and thanks for watching!
aaroncake 7 months ago
Rust is cruel.
s124ke70 7 months ago
Really really cant wait to see the finished look
ThomasXp 7 months ago
17! We waiting! :P
C'mon....
Fucking amazing videos!
jefa1234 7 months ago
@jefa1234 Episode 17 is about 60% edited. It will likely be posted soon, though I make no promises of exactly when. Remember, I'm one guy doing all the work to the car on evenings and weekends, plus dealing with the rest of my life and editing the videos. :-)
aaroncake 7 months ago 4
@aaroncake You are one awesome guy doing al the work. I already respected you for your website with the rx info before this series, but now I'm a downright fan! Keep up the good work. You really make me wish I had a proper garage/workshop to work in.
Elgonidas 7 months ago
WHEN IS THE NEXT VIDEOOO COMIING?
mike789963 7 months ago
@mike789963 I am in the process of both doing the work, and editing the video containing said work, right now.
aaroncake 7 months ago 3
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WesternRx5 8 months ago
@WesternRx5 This is the first time I have heard of Falcon brake parts being used on a Cosmo. Is there anything besides machining the hubs for 5 lug that is needed?
aaroncake 8 months ago
Comment removed
WesternRx5 7 months ago
@WesternRx5 Thank you for the info! That's something I'm certainly going to look into. I was having visions of having to head to the wrecking yard and manually measure every 5 lug rotor that looked like it would fit.
aaroncake 7 months ago
Comment removed
WesternRx5 7 months ago
Comment removed
WesternRx5 7 months ago
its candid moments like watching you remove the dash and seeing all those wires that, im thankful to have a painless wiring harness installed on my RX2. LOL better you than me.... anywho coming along great man, look forward too the next update!!
diverseent 8 months ago
@diverseent I'm considering using a Painless harness but concerned that I would spend more time adapting it to the stock Mazda switchgear than just dealing with any issues in the stock harness. Luckily, the dash harness is basically untouched. The horrible wiring was additional stuff for the stereo. The engine harness was mangled but it won't be reused. The body harness seems basically OK as well.
aaroncake 8 months ago
@aaroncake hmm.. not to be a noob but when you say switchgear you mean what exactly?
diverseent 8 months ago
@aaroncaket if its intact you should keep the stock stuff, when i got my car the entire dash and interior was gutted, it used to be a track car so i didnt have a choice.
diverseent 8 months ago
Wow! Great videos! Thank you, I really love learning watching you working. Keep doing your famous running gags on 'that's what she said' or 'there is never enough vaseline in a hole' or something like that...this is so funny!
My english is not to good but I think you can understand :D
I can't wait to see it all done!
yanmorissband 8 months ago
AARON CAKE! ROCKING THE MAZDA WORLD AND BRINGING BACK THE DEAD!!
jeeZtube 8 months ago
Im getting all antsy waiting for the engine restoration. The dragon fly in the A pillar was a nice touch, good omen methinks
naireland 8 months ago
@naireland Well, it looks like I'm stuck doing some sheet metal work for the next little while in the engine bay area before I can even think of priming, painting and then reinstalling the engine. Which is too bad, because it's the mechanical work that I really enjoy and I'm not very fond of body work. Once I get into the engine and drivetrain fabrication, that's where things get interesting.
aaroncake 8 months ago
@aaroncake fixing a rusted chassis isn't much fun especially when you've got sheet metal riveted all over the fenders and wheel wells lol, what a mess. Should all pay off though knowing you've got a sturdy rust free frame in the end though Personally i'm terrified of wiring harnesses, especially ones like yours where they crimped the hell out of everything.
naireland 8 months ago
@naireland Did some floor repairs over the past few days. Wiring is one of my favourite things to do, actually. I'm eager to start building the EFI harness but it will be a while...It will also be my first MS3 installation.
aaroncake 8 months ago
There is no heavy duty pad/wire/paint stripping wheel that can take that coating off? Most unpleasant!
captainfiercebeard 8 months ago
@captainfiercebeard Unfortunately no. Wire wheels just melt the stuff, or clog up quickly. Any type of abrasive I've tried just does the same. 3M stripping pads just clog as well. Eastwood Company makes an undercoating removal spray which I intend to try very soon. A combination of a putty knife and kerosene works quite well, but is very time consuming.
aaroncake 8 months ago
Great Great! A new vid ^^, <
You will mod the dash? Or keep the original?
jefa1234 8 months ago
@jefa1234 Basically original but recovered with a more soft vinyl. And I suspect that I'll be modernizing the center console a bit with more contemporary controls as well as a double-DIN head unit.
aaroncake 8 months ago
I wish you were doing an American classic. Or German. Or Italian. Or English. Mazda?? And starting in that condition? Did someone pay you to take it off of their hands? You know iron scrap is around $300 a ton.
strandwolf 8 months ago
@strandwolf What makes those cars any more worth restoring than any other? And what's the point of starting off with a car that just needs a new paint job and a little interior work? If one is restoring a car, they should start with something that's going to offer a bit of a challenge. Plus when I'm done I'll have a car that I like, know every corner of, and will be absolutely unique on the road. Unlike the 50 Mustangs, Novas, Camaros, Chevelles, Vegas, whatever I see at every car show I attend.
aaroncake 8 months ago 10
@aaroncake well spoken. why be like everyone else... why not do something different. In new zealand, rotarys are very common on our roads. very nice motors!!
lukechammen 8 months ago
@strandwolf What makes an American, German, Italian or English classic any better than a Japanese classic?
baggedandblown 7 months ago
Dude I don't envy you
kz6fittycent 8 months ago
Yaaaaaaaaay, a new vid:D Look at the threads on that tire, you sure those ain't rally-spec?
dondebest 8 months ago
@dondebest The top of the line...when shopping at Wal-Mart in the early '80s.
aaroncake 8 months ago 2
@aaroncake Haha lol:D. I'll be looking forward to the video of you blasting the living sh*t out of your front end with the upgraded compressor:D Do you have any idea when you will put that one online? Btw, I was wondering when I went through your website a while back, what kind of turbo you used on your Tiina? I'm looking for a suitable turbo on my street and trackdriven 12a. Would you have any idea of something that is work well?
dondebest 8 months ago
@dondebest Not quite sure when I'll be blasting the front end. I need the shop to myself for a few days to do that, and I really should do some more work on the floor in the mean time. As for the RX-7, I'm running a GT4088R. For your 12A, assuming you want around 250-300HP, I'd say go with the GT3076 w/ .84 T3 turbine housing.
aaroncake 8 months ago
@aaroncake Thanks for your input, I was indeed aiming for around 250 hp. But wouldn't a .63 (or .64? correct me if I'm wrong) be more efficient in the lower rpm range? Since this car should still be somewhat driveable on the street, I can't go full out race-spec on it. So there should be some low-end torque present. Or would the .84 spool up quick enough to maintain that low end torque? P.s. What is your opinion on carbon apex seals?
Greetings from Holland!
Don
dondebest 8 months ago
@dondebest A .63 (or .64) T3 would be more suited to a small displacement piston engine. On a 12A with a street port, it would be an exhaust plug after about 4000 RPM. The .84 T3 would work quite well from 2000 RPM until 5500 RPM. Just don't make the ports too huge either. 12A stock exhaust ports are tiny but don't go much past 2nd gen timings when you port them. Keep the primary intake ports about the same, don't advance the secondaries too much. Carbon apex seals are for NA applications only.
aaroncake 8 months ago
@aaroncake Hey Aaron, thanks for the quick response:) I was thinking because of the small displacement in the 12a (and 13b for that matter), A .84 t3 would be overkill, but it seems I'm wrong (hey you live and you learn right?). I also didn't know about the carbon apex seals for that matter, that they are only suitable for NA applications. And thanks for the tip about the porting, I will look up the part about the 2nd gen timing. Thanks so much already for the good advice:).
dondebest 8 months ago
@dondebest Rotary engines more much more air, and have much stronger exhaust pulses than piston engines. For example, the stock HT-18 on the 2nd gen is a .96 (or 90? I forget) turbine housing. My 4088R (full T4) is running a 1.06 housing (though the engine is bridgeported). If you go to a divided housing, than you could run something in the .90 range.
aaroncake 8 months ago
@aaroncake I didn't know that:D. I used to work at a shop called Dynotrack, it was a engine revision company, but we mainly concentrated on the preparation and complete assembly of drag-race engines (for rich kids who can't build their own stuff). Gotta say I love the wankel so far, don't have much experience with that, as you can probably tell. I probably won't go in the divided range, so I will stick to the .84. Again, thanks for your input, makes all the difference:).
dondebest 8 months ago
cmon, keep em goin' :D we want more!
Bojack222 8 months ago
Hi, Aaron it would help me a lot if you could work a bit faster :) I'm working on my own mazda rx 5, and i like it when you post new videos.
kennycayman 8 months ago
anyone else notice around minute 17:XX that Aaron was using kerosene to clean the wheel wells with a battery resting right below the car?
1: kerosene
2: battery
3: car shifts down touching battery
4: spark
5: ?
6: profit!
Love this series Aaron, just be careful cause I'm not sure how much I could watch if your face is melted off.
mdobilas 8 months ago
@mdobilas Haha, I think if the car was shifting downward I'd be more concerned about it shifting downward on top of me. I suspect my body would prevent it from touching the battery. Either way, there's a fire extinguisher around somewhere...though probably not in easy reach if there is a car on top of me. The battery, of course, is there so I can open the doors. :-)
aaroncake 8 months ago
In response to your question about the mystery CPU wired into the dash harness, are there any part numbers on it? Part numbers for Mazda EFI ECUs always end in "18-881", as in "N326-18-881" for a S4NA. For carb'ed cars such as the Series 1 SA22C, their suffix (and D-code too) is "18-880". Send me the numbers you find on the box and I should be able to tell you what it is for, and possibly give you a pinout for the connector too. My rx7club username is akagis_white_comet
tsherwoodrzero 8 months ago
@tsherwoodrzero I'll have to check the numbers. But since internally it looks almost the same as the SA "ECU" so it appears to just control the emissions solenoids. In which case it can be removed. Mazda has always been nice about keeping the ECU to the engine only and not integrating dash functions so I'd be very surprised if it did anything but control the solenoids and ignition cut. I've checked the RX-4 FSM. Box isn't listed. Maybe REPU...
aaroncake 8 months ago
@tsherwoodrzero Just checked my wiring diagram for the car (hmm...maybe I should have done that earlier?) and it appears to simply be the ECU controlling the emissions/ignition. I'll have to verify by checking wire colours. That being the case, it can likely be removed freeing up a perfect space for the Megasquirt.
aaroncake 8 months ago
Aaron the little box "module" you removed @ 25:05 is the wiper relay...
Specrotors 8 months ago
Nice to see some progress.
TempestZeta 8 months ago
That image will haunt me forever Aaron!
1SWEETRX7 8 months ago
Haha that poor cashier girl!
Hazchem 8 months ago
@Hazchem stupit
JanBeran18 8 months ago
@JanBeran18 ...what?
Hazchem 8 months ago
@Hazchem He said your stupit gawt dangit!
sh3lbot 8 months ago