Planing boards wider than your jointer

[GrenierJeff]

Thanks for the tip, i justed planed 10in oak board this way with my 6in jointer

[TheVTRainMan]

And all this time I have been using a planer sled with hot glue and shims. A major PITA! I'm gonna try this next time for sure.

[tconst17]

Why not just take light cuts on a planer and never use a jointer for faces? Put the bow up and thin it slowly. Always seemed easier than this process.

[TheInternalKillerXx]

Is that a mastercraft planer? im looking at getting one, would you reccomend it?

Thanks.

[Matthiaswandel]

Yes. I got it because it was cheap. Worked adequately so far.

[joshuafarnsworth]

I wonder if your jointed side would come out level & truly flat with this method.

[homosapienssapiens19]

All very well, but what do you do if the booard is more then twice as wide?

[sudy5997]

@homosapienssapiens19 You cut it down, wide boards will cup anyways. So rip it to logical widths, plane it down as needed and leave a little extra for after glue up to be sanded smooth. If you must a belt sander running 45 degrees to the lumber over the joints then orbital sand to finish. Tip: keep boards flush on glue up.

[MrJplattus]

Omg! you scared me!! 0:35

[rickyrosan]

I love this video and I am going to make lots of clamps for my shop but I wonder if you could use multiple dowels instead of finger jointing. I guess that could be a way of testing the Dowel max jig vs the finger joints

[martinjcamp]

A workable method indeed, but it really makes me cringe to see your hands passing over the cutterhead, especially on such a short board. To me, it feels much more assuring safety-wise to use push-paddles. Plus, using them, I can/am willing to put more pressure on the board, especially with very hard woods, which can bounce a lot as they are being planed.

[Matthiaswandel]

you probably need to sharpen and adjust your blades if you get bounce.

[martinjcamp]

@Matthiaswandel - Amen to your recommendation. Thanks. I often use old/recycled materials, and my knives aren't always in the best condition.

[martinjcamp]

A workable method indeed, but it really makes me cringe to see your hands passing over the cutterhead, especially on such a short board. To me, it feels much more assuring safety-wise to use push-paddles. Plus, using them, I can/am willing to put more pressure on the board, especially with very hard woods, which can bounce a lot as they are being planed.

[gschjetne]

Or you could use a hand plane to get a reasonably flat surface for the planer.

[ethomfactusest]

Matt! You’re a legend! :)



[BradburyGuy]

Thanks for the tip I just had this problem on the video I am currently making. I ended up ripping the board (still too wide) and using my drum sander.

[kresimircindric]

But what if your board is wider than the planer? :-/

[Matthiaswandel]

Then you are SOL.

[jhz925]

@kresimircindric then you would have to plane by hand. D:

[collolup1]

what brand is your thicknesser?

[miiror13]

haha the jionter is my favortie machine! :D

the disc sander is the scariest :O

in my opinion that is

[RDJim]

why not just start on the planer?

[Matthiaswandel]

If you start with a curved or twisted board on the planer, it will still be curved or twisted when you finish.

For thin stock, that might be desirable, because you can just force it straight when you attach it to what you are building, but for thick stock, that's a problem.

[atmike1]

It's still not flat. If you repeatedly jointed the same face in the same place making the cut deeper and deeper, essentially making a really wide rabbet, you would have a dead flat area with a step running the length that was still rough. Then you take a known flat board the size of your jointer (to place on the dead flat spot), then turn over and register that in your planer. Plane the opposite side than what you jointed. When that is flat, turn back over and plane off the rough step.

[Matthiaswandel]

The technique you describe is the particularly awkward technique I want to avoid. Because if you don't make your first cut deep enough, you are screwed.

Before you say "it isn't flat" - how about trying it out?

[tribalwind]

i like the "router on skis" method. tiny piece liek that i'd hit with a jack plane first

[ploetzlich30]

@tribalwind, i would hit it with a router and a flattening jig, and all would be as loud as this method. in the end a couple swings with a jack plane and one chilled drpepper would run down my throath to provide some new energy to hit some new boards!

[barakuda1111]

Hail the wood wizard :)

[locoken]

Wow, you must have just posted this as I'm the first to view it and the first to comment. Not that it wins me any kind of prize, but it's never happened to me. Hmmm.....

Nice little video, Mr. Wandel. Always a pleasure to see your new videos!

[locoken]

@locoken Guess I wasn't the first as others beat me in but cool, nonetheless. =)

[unusualcatperson]

This is extremely simple. Why don't other people use this method? Are there any real disadvantages to using this method compared to others?

[Matthiaswandel]

Doesn't work quite as well for really long boards.

But mostly, I think people like to build fancy jigs

[unusualcatperson]

@Matthiaswandel Haha, makes sense. Thanks for the reply :)

[Serostern]

@Matthiaswandel ...Pfft, fancy jigs.

You don't like to build such unnessecary things, huh? ;P

[hypnolobster]

@Matthiaswandel

Says the man who invented the Pantorouter : )

[7pulford]

@Matthiaswandel Oh yeah, people who make fancy jigs are just terrible, aren't they? Just joking, I love all of your jigs and vids!

[Shannariano]

@Matthiaswandel Said the man who uses a pantograph ^_^.

sorry, I had to say that :P

not that I don't like the pantorouter or all your other jigs (the screw advancing for tablesaw one is fantastic). But you have to admit you're the first one who likes building jigs :D