Added: 3 years ago
From: popnstart
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  • just made one, tried it at work and it works like a treat! we need tips like this, share the knowledge. we engineers and fabricators are the future!

  • how about in a independent chuck????

    does it applicable????

  • @julieann620 , i suppose so, but you need to use indicator as close to the jaws as possible on a long part. Then, maybe you could use the ball bearing to move the part on the other end. If the part is thin I don't see much of a problem of using the ball bearing on the face of the part either. Good luck to you. Later, Rick.

  • genius, i had the same trouble, not any more! hat's off to you

  • @MattLundFTW , thanks for the kind comment and am glad this makes your machining easier and more productive. Later, Rick.

  • I suppose thats ok I just don't like to have the "best test" that close to something wobbling with a possibility of coming out of the chuck and possibly breaking the indicator. Thanks for the kind comments and hope this tool helps your machining experience. Later, Rick.

  • Great Tip, but is it possible to put the gauge on the piece that it is being centered during the setting with the ball bearing, so that one can see the result instantly? Just thought :-)

  • I turned the end of some bar stock down and tapped it to use a captive screw to hold the bearing on. It looks like the bearing is sitting on the end of the rod and not adjacent to the rod. It seems to work though. Cheers!

  • @simpleinseattle , hey I have made that configuration also! Seems to work ok too! Later, Rick.

  • I don't have access to a lathe these days but to soak up a tip from an experienced craftsman is always very satisfying and entertaining!

  • I will make the same tool when i get my hands on a small bearing.

  • Thanks for the tip, it took me a few attempts to get the motions down. But still faster than before. I thought I had an inside track to tips and tricks from my dad, retired GM machinist. Just shows even master machinists don't know everything.

  • Substantial tip. Thanks.

  • @EMCOcompact , glad something so simple could help make your machining experience more productive. Later, Rick.

  • Now thats a man that KNOWS his craft.

  • @johnnnyreb51 , well thanks for the kind comment. I have been doing this trade long enough to only being humbled every OTHER day instead of every day(on average)! Later, Rick.

  • WOW! Thats one killer tip.. Thanks, Im off to make one of those right now

  • @340NOS , brother, your comment is very inspiring. hope it helps you be more productive on the lathe. Later, Rick.

  • hello there, excellent idea to center a part on the chuck, I just want to ask you is this process will be good for centering a cylindrical part OD- 6" and 9" long. I want to center on CNC lathe I cannot use a tail stock as the Part has a Boring Operation. Thanks for your help

  • @bikswahla , the problem with the CNC lathe chucks I am familiar with, the chucks are either full on or full off, no in-between, so depending how much pressure the clamping force of the chuck will determine if the ball bearing would move the part. Good luck and thanks for the kind comment. Later, Rick.

  • Hello Rick, I did try this method today I forgot to tell you that I am using a Teflon material to machine, every time I bring the ball bearing close to the part it pushes the part out of the chuck, and I think you are right that clamping force on the chuck is either full or full off. Currently I am centering using a dial gauge but it is time consuming. Any other method I can use to center, Thanks for your help, later bik

  • @bikswahla den errigtig god, fin ide-tak

  • Great video!

  • @Bear5177 , thanks. Later, Rick.

  • Absolutely fantastic video, thank you very much!

  • @RubertaLang , thanks brother. Glad you enjoyed it and hope it makes your lathe experience more enjoyable. Later, Rick.

  • Awesome! Is there any reason your not using parallels to align the two different parts?  You've definitely shown me a new trick! Thanks, Ryan

  • @ryanadams711 , thanks for the positive comment and glad you can use this technique. I tend to forget I have my parallels in the chuck. Later, Rick.

  • Very nice! Thanks for the tip!

  • @glamisfan777 , glad it could help you. Later, Rick.

  • Cool trick! What's that gooseneck thingy holding the DTI? Is it my imagination or does it somehow pop to zero?

  • @Ziknazoo , the gooseneck is an indicator magnetic base. A small lever tightens a cable which locks the segments. Its expensive but makes the indicator job easier. I hardly use it any more with the ball bearing thingy. Thanks for the positive comments. Later, Rick.

  • I found this helpful. Just used a lathe for the first time today so I'm looking for good tricks.

  • @sibco96 , uh oh, you are gonna be hooked for life with that machining hobby. Thanks for the positive comment. Later, Rick.

  • just have to make one for my mini lathe instead of fighting the dti.....simple works

  • @NIGHTWATCHERUK01 , i'm gonna get one of those mini lathes someday. Probably when I retire. Thanks for the positive comment and hope yours works too. Later, Rick.

  • i have been a machinist for 3 years and i have always had trouble with turning down small pieces and also having the pieces wobble around! but this is a great idea and you should make more and sell them.

  • @cheeriomartinez , thanks for the positive comment. This tool is easily made and its use mastered by most beginner machinists, so I don't think folks would buy something that has to be specially tailored to individual tool posts. After all, its just a ball bearing bolted to a piece of steel. Later, Rick.

  • subscribed! 

  • ingenious!!

  • I've been working in a machine shop for 31 years and that's the best idea I've seen in a long time. Very cool and simple.

  • @delano62 , sometimes the simplest things solve the tough problems. Thanks for the positive comments. Later, Rick.

  • damn freaky genius.I was just locking my parts down and beating the shit out of it

  • @brucegor , thanks for the kind comment. Now you can put the hammer away and the indicator too. Later, Rick.

  • Cool as, I thought it was a big lathe by the size of the chuck, lucky you :) I made the centering tool and it works a treat, trued up some aluminium bar to within a bees dick (a bees dick is around .01mm LOL ) of running true in about 5 seconds. So thanks again buddy :) Your idea is brilliant :)Best regards, Bill.

  • @sneakystaffie , grateful for the positive comment and glad this simple tool could make your lathe work more enjoyable. Take care. Later, Rick.

  • Hahaha, LOL, not only is this guy a clever dicky but also a comedian :) lathe chucks run clockwise in the southern hemisphere, its only drill chucks that run anticlockwise here in the southern part of the globe LOLOL :) What size is ur lathe bud ? Have a great day Rick :) Best regards, Bill.

  • @sneakystaffie , it is a YAM 13" with a removable gap. Later, Rick.

  • Well done, what a great idea. I'll make one tomorrow :) All the best from australia :)

  • @sneakystaffie , thanks for the positive feedback. I think with practice your indicator will draw a lot of dust on the shelf. BTW, which direction do the lathe chucks run in the southern hemi?? LOL, just kiddin' Later, Rick.

  • Outstanding! Things always look simple after someone shows you how

    to do it... Show us more!!!

  • @AeroSport103 , thanks for the positive comment and glad you can make this tool work for you. Later, Rick.

  • Thanks

    Got to build one of these.

  • @123HURST , good to see this video inspired you to build one of these simple tools. You can probably tell from the condition of the tool in the vid that I have been using it for years. Pretty simple tool that saves a lot of time. Thanks for the positive comment. Later, Rick.

  • Very interesting! Is it possible to use the indicator at the same time as the ball bearing on the tool post to save a step? Just keep moving the ball bearing in to true up the part while simultaneously watching the indicator to see when it stops swinging wildly/starts to stabilize?

  • @UsefulBenevolence , thanks for the positive comment. I just used the indicator for the first few times I ever used the ball bearing technique to verify in my mind that it worked, and here just to verify to the viewer that it worked. I very seldom use my indicator on the lathe anymore. About using the indicator while moving the ball bearing. You must find a stationary spot for the base other than the cross slide, obviously. Thanks for your interest.

  • Muchas Gracias Sen'or

  • Great Tip, thanks for sharing............

  • @paulrbrownbr549 , no problem. Thanks for the kind comment. Later, Rick.

  • Brilliant idea! I watched this video last week, made myself a similar tool this week. Works perfectly.Thanks very much for posting this.

  • @stillbashingmetal , thanks for the kind comment. Good to see this simple little tool can help so many folks machining in the lathe. You got an interesting username too. Later, Rick. 

  • Now that was ingenious, I always hated indicating those thin work pieces. Thank you for the tip

  • @Maurice1469 , I don't know about ingenious, but after using a machine for such a long time things start working out in your head until a light bulb comes on, then you try the idea and sometimes it works. Sometimes, the light bulb dims a little and I forget to tighten the chuck! (distractions)Oh NO! Glad you are having success with it and thanks for the kind comment. Later, Rick.

  • @popnstart I never really had a problem with forgetting to tighten, but I forgot to take the chuck key out a couple of times. Now that wasn't too fun

  • @Maurice1469 , leaving the key in the chuck tends to give me hot flashes. It really gets your attention. Hopefully no blood got on your machines.

  • @popnstart No blood, it gave me the same feeling though. One day my boss seen me leave it in then walk away, he tore me up, then proceeded to tell me a story of one of his friends that died because of a key left in a chuck.

  • @Maurice1469 , leaving the chuck key in the chuck is not the problem. Turning the machine on when the key is in the chuck is when dangerous things happen. DO NOT TURN ON LATHE WITH CHUCK KEY IN CHUCK!! Happy machining!

  • @popnstart

    Long,long a go, when i was learning the basics of machining, I left a chuck key in a lathe and went away to do something else. When I returned to the lathe, I grabbed the chuck key. I soon dropped it because the bas***ds that were teaching me had heated it up with a gas torch. I've never left a chuck key in since!

  • great idea, excelent procedure.

  • @MrShoodj , thanks for the positve endorsement and glad it works for you. Later, Rick.

  • Amateur Question: Dowel pins welded to a piece of CRS! Fabulous idea! How did you weld-up the jig? Did you machine a mating round-bottom groove on the CRS to accept the pin prior to welding? Did you mill a flat on the dowel pin? I suspect welding a round dowel pin onto a flat piece of CRS would be too difficult... A.

  • @bentontool , thanks for the positive comment. I measured across (2) 1/2 dia. dowels while holding them in the Aloris tool post wedges. then subtracted 1/2 inch from that value and plunge-milled a slight radius in the cold-rolled bar to locate the dowels. Clamped while welding. Just don't wedge the dowels too much while using the tool or you might push a dowel off. Later, Rick.

  • this is a very useful tip.. Thanks.

    Peter

  • @petersline , thanks for the kind comment. I'm glad to share this technique. OOPS!!, I forgot where I put my indicator!! Later, Rick.

  • If you want to have it right every time, push it a little further and then slowly pull it back. The accuracy is the feed out per revolution. If you want an accuracy of 0.001", feed out at 0.001" per revolution. The error will be between zero and 0.001".

  • @grieske , correct, but be careful, pusshing too far too fast and the part will walk out of the jaws. If it anything adverse has happened to you while learning this technique, it has happened to me too, so be careful, used your common sense and you'll be just fine. Later, Rick.

  • showed my helper your method @ my shop tonight, would liked to claim is as mine, but couldn't.  I'm sending him your vid. Thanks for the help. D

  • Great idea but will it not wear the tips of chuck jaws faster?

  • @steveBB30 , thanks for the positive remark. Most chuck jaws are very hard(heat-treated) and mine have shown no noticable wear. Later, Rick.

  • that is an amazing method to get the part indicated quickly. amazing how something so simply can do something like that.

  • @macsthunderhawk , thanks for the kind comment. It was an evolution of sorts because, at first I use my cutting tool tip while running the spindle in reverse(still do sometimes making simple washers), then, I used a piece of 1/2 dia. brass clamped in a tool holder, then got the idea to use a ball bearing bolted to the cold rolled in a tool holder, then to free-up a tool holder, welded 1/2 dia. dowels to the 1/2 in. CRS. Later, Rick.

  • I didn't have a project in mind this morning when I got up... now I do. I don't know how I got along without that. ~ Thanks!

  • @askjerry , always glad to see folks can use this simple tool to help make your lathe experience more enjoyable. Thanks for your kind comment. Later, Rick.

  • hello, is there a index live center tool with even and odd number settings which can be installed in a 3 chuck or tail stock on metal lathe with the head stock in a locked position that i can manually rotate a dowel so i can make even and odd number of grooves?

  • @LG6327 , don't know about a tool, but I have used the jaws of the chuck against the tool post to index the spindle in order to scribe a line on the face or end of a shaft. The 6 jaw for indexing 3 or 6 places and the 4 jaw for 4 or 90 degrees. Hope this helps.

  • I just finished mine,I turned a piece of some god awful hard steel to fit the center diameter of the bearing and then welded it to a 5/16 piece of regular bar stock and tried it a 1/2 hour later and its freaking great.No more smacking the piece with a very small rubber mallet hoping for something close for me anymore.Thank you

  • I can not thank you enough for this,I hoe you have patented this.Im brand new to lathe operating with not teaching but what Ive learned online and this is the finest thing Ive learned as smacking my piece with a small rubber mallet just never does it !!!!!!!!!!!!

  • @toddclites , patenting things cost money. Anyone can make their own in less than an hour so the patent lawyers would make the money on a patent. This is just my contribution to the machining fraternity. I'm glad this is helping the ones who decide to use it. So far, only 2 folks have given a thumbs down. So, don't forget to tighten the chuck before machining the work piece. I forgot to tighten once and tried to give a thumbs down but YT won't allow the uploader to vote.

  • Seems it would be beneficial to dye half of the bearing diameter so it's easy to tell when it's making steady contact and spinning steady...like an edge finder, it'd show you when you're 'there'

  • @caulk04 , be careful with that as Dykem(layout fluid) as it will get on your part and it has thickness too and may interfere with and give you a false reading. I look between the bearing and the part to see light between them to determine how much the part is out of indication and then decide whether I need to try again. Thanks for the kind comment.

  • I'll be damned...that's a great tool to have!

  • That's a very clever trick. Simply yet an elegant solution. I'm going build one of those just as soon as I can.

  • @applejak2000 , thanks for the kind comment. A lazy person can "invent" all sorts of stuff to make things easier. Later, Rick.

  • @Qualileax , thanks for the kind comment and glad I could help out the machine shop fraternity with this simple little tool. I use mine every single weekday and the bearing is just now getting broke-in. Later, Rick.

  • The best lathe tip I have seen, thanks! I'm making one as soon as I am done typing here!

  • @skyking2097 , thanks for the kind comment. Have fun with it. Amazing how something so simple makes indicating in the lathe not such a chore. I use mine every day.

  • Great tip, I'm makin one soon as I finish my coffee!

  • @MrJohn714 , thanks for the kind comment. I guarantee you will be an indicating guru in quick order, or your money back. BTW, I finish my coffee when I go to sleep. Have fun with it. Later, Rick.

  • @popnstart Just finished making it, I chucked a 2" washer to test it and it wasnt off by more than .002, thanks again!

  • @MrJohn714 , not too bad. Sometimes the simple things work the best or, at least, good enough.

  • built one man makes it easy now thanks

  • @730M , you are welcome. That thing makes "indicating" so much faster. I use it everyday.

  • I'm no machinist but recently got one of my own. found your video and i will never forget this trick, any four jaw tricks?

  • @modernblacksmith , thanks for the kind comment. About 4 jaws: I try to avoid them but when I do I use 1/4 inch alum. shims to prevent scuffing part, use only 3 jaws until I get it close, and get "in the zone" with the indicator. It just takes practice to get fast.

  • @popnstart thanks buddy

  • manual lathe operators are real craftsmen. never runs out of ideas. thanks for the tip!

  • @bjlibrero , thanks for the kind comment and I am glad this little tech tip makes your lathe experience more enjoyable.

  • great tip tired of chasing my tail

  • @730M , thanks for the positive comment and am glad it could make your lathe experience more productive. Later.

  • Wondering if you could put the indicator on the work while using the tool to indicate the part. Instead of just looking for no movement you could also look for the deflection on the needle to slowly wind to zero..

  • @shadowdog500 , checking to see your progress while using the ball bearing is a good "positive reinforcement" technique, and that is ok. Most of the times I use it, I peek between the bearing and the part as I back-off to see the light between them. If this light doesn't "flash" much, I'm close enough for the lathe work I do. When I first starting using this idea, I checked and now I don't bother checking. If it has to be more precise I'll use the OD grinder. Good luck. Later.

  • Nice, nice, nice!!!!

    Thank you very much for this great tip, what a time saver. I bought a cheap knurling tool & mounted a bearing in the top roller. Best $22 I've spent in a while.

    Thanks Again & Best Regards,

    Jon

  • @rcwarship , that idea you have for mounting the bearing sounds pretty good. Thanks for the kind comment and glad this idea helps you do things faster and easier. Later.

  • Good. This method is good for fresh processed parts, details, what is not big size.

  • Δεν το είχα σκεφτεί! Τέλειο!

  • @mihanurgos , thank you.

  • I think that is a great handy lil tip. It will get you up and running faster that is for sure. I know some are like thats not very good. Well i say you indicator is on it make it better if you like with a few small taps of a hammer. Im going to give this a whirl at the shop tomorrow , thanx for the tip

  • @MrBallistic31 , good luck. I think you'll see that as you get more experience using it you will feel more comfortable using it. I have found it works better the more the part wobbles initially and you can do it at slower rpm's if you wish. Thanks for the kind comment.

  • Great tip thanks - real world stuff.

  • @thetargetmaster , I think most folks who use this little gadget won't even think about using their indicator except to check the runout, and then they will soon realize just by looking(eyeballing) to their satisfaction that no indicator is necessary. Thanks for your positive comment. Later.

  • @popnstart I'll be making the gadget over the weekend. Have you got any more tips like that? You can see my turning effort on a Colchester bantam if you search for "turning teflon bearings"

  • thanks for the video buddy...helped me

  • @jeetuabhijit , glad to see folks are using this little gadget to make their lathe operations easier. I use mine most of the time to indicate the face of parts. Take care and thanks for the positive response.

  • Thanks for the video. It takes touch and skill to do what you do so don't be discouraged by the scaired G-Coders. Most of the armchair manual machinists never got up close and personal with a lathe in the first place. People like you built this country AND the original CNC machines (and glass frames they hide behind) so dont forget that. Thanks again.

  • @Vexstadt , you just got to be careful and know where all your body parts are at any given moment. I still get hurt more using the drill press than any other machine. Thanks for your kind comments. Later.

  • for the work I do this is a good set of tips. (I'm not trying to rescue Apollo 13 with my hobby). I might just spin the chuck with my hand however to check the tolerances. Thank you!

  • @jorgfr7734 , thats a good call. I thought I would speed the vid up a little by checking under power but only succeeded in sowing the seeds of negative comments for doing that. I never do it under normal circumstances. Thanks for your kind comments. Later.

  • for the work I do this is a good set of tips. (I'm not trying to rescure Apollo 13 with my hobby). I might just spin the chuck with my hand however to check the tolerances. Thank you!

  • good idea anything to save time

  • get good with a four jaw chuck quicker and safer that way with .0000 runout

  • @jkamping1 , not precise enough. I need .000000000000 runout.

  • @jkamping1 Less than a tenth runout with a four jaw? My good sir, have you committed a typographical error?

  • best video for beginners

    

  • @vmiluvdworld , thanks for the positive remarks. Seems to work for most folks. This makes me feel a little better since the last negative comment. Some folks aren't cut out for the manual machines. A co-worker drilled a #21 drill THRU his index finger. (At least he was smart enough not to tap with a 10-32)He was put on a CNC for the rest of his employment. The keys on a keyboard cannot do a lot of damage to incompetent machinists.

  • @popnstart I like your method.

  • @billmaghan , thanks Bill for the kind comment. I hardly ever use an indicator anymore. This method really speeds things up when doing multple parts.

  • Fired!!!

    It amazes me that you haven't killed yourself yet.

    Never push against a lightly chucked spinning part ,Ever!

    Never leave the chuck key in the chuck, Ever!!

    Never turn the spindle on when indicating a part, Ever!!!

    That sound you hear in the background is your coworker hitting the floor because of your ignorance for safety.

    This video shows how not to operate a lathe safely. Must be to lazy to bore a set of soft jaws. I would fire your lazy ignorant ass. Thumbs down, you fail!

  • @CncDatum , FINALLY got a "dislike".Looks as though someone forgot to tighten their chuck!

  • Your parts still had run-out, the parts I machine can not have even .0001" of run-out, when you get it close to running true with your little bearing bar thinga ma jig, adjust the four set screws on your chuck , and dont say you dont got em cause i see them in this vid, this will allow you to "buck it in" and not have any run-out on any quadrant..

  • @Forbidenist , uhhh...yeah,uhhh...good detective work. The indicator needle movement "indicates" runout. I would not dare say there were no adjustment screws. I use the screws to adjust a 1 inch dowel to within .001 TIR first. These particular parts can be out up to a couple thou. As witness to the video, the bearing-bar-thinga-ma-jig got it to within .001. I would dare say the Machining Community is looking forward to an uploaded video of you indicating a part with "NO RUNOUT IN ANY QUADRANT"

  • i had an idea to run the dti at the same time as aligning, Do you see any problems with this?

  • @fatcatslimcat , very seldom do I bother using the indicator. I only use the indicator in the video to show the viewer how precise the method is. IMO, if something has to be more precise than a couple thou on the lathe, as far as concentricity is concerned, I will OD grind it between centers. Be careful running the spindle with the indicator tip touching for very long as you may wear a flat on the tip. Good luck.

  • Nice work, simple and effective, can't get much better than that!

    A question - what is your indicator mounted on? It looks real handy...

  • @AdeV2 , it is a segmented indicator base. Works great by getting the indictor close to where you want it, tighten the cable going thru the center of the segments with a lever and will adjust slightly with a small amount of force to set the indicator needle. Search nolansupply

  • @popnstart - Nice one, thanks for the info! I shall be on the lookout for one...

  • @AdeV2 , thank you for your kind comment and glad this little idea has helped you.

  • Dammm i must say that is pretty damm good video!! I just got a new lathe love them but only now could afort to buy a proper one and that tip was brilliant!!!Thank you very much!!

  • @gsmlocks , its great to see so many use this technique to make their lathe operations more enjoyable. Thanks for your kind comments.

  • precision is not satisfactory ~ 

  • @heiwuleizhizi , uh, mister, for the purpose of feedback, you need to check "dislike".

  • @popnstart Although i feel precision may be not satisfactory, I still push the botton of "like"

  • @popnstart What a great video! My family owns a small machine shop in Buffalo and I love working on the lathes and cant wait to build this and show it off. Credit will be given to you though haha. One more thing, this has got to be the first clip on youtube that has all 'likes' and no "dislikes' !! well done!

  • @kev8338 ,thanks for the kind remarks and glad this can make other folks lathe work a more enjoyable experience. You mentioned "no dislikes". I guess that suggests that no one has forgotten to tighten their chuck after using the ball bearing before attempting to machine it. Since that has happened to me I should probably be the first to dislike! Thanks again.

  • I usually use a drill chuck at the tailstock to align small cylindrical workpiece without tightening it too much and just let the head spin slowly or by hand. When dealing with large diameter pipes or hollow cylinder I use the 3 - 4 inch dia. live center. Thin washers can be aligned by using parallels against the backside and on to the face of the 3 jaw chuck. I will definitely use your idea though. I can't believe I didn't thought of this.

  • @fdincorp By the way, flat washers can also be positioned by using the tailstock alone without anything attached to it. Just push it slowly to the workpiece until the work piece (washer) is flat.

  • Great idea. I just made one after watching your video, works great! Just goes to show that you can spend your career bashing metal , and still learn new things. thanks for posting.

  • @coriander2 , I think this idea is a DIRECT product of the "spirit of competition" in a capitalist society, especially since the machine shop trade is such a competitive business. OR, maybe, just a product of my laziness, tiring of pulling out the indicator to indicate so many parts. Maybe a little of both, but I'm pleased that this has helped so many folks. Thanks for your kind comments. Later.

  • you hiring any apprentices, i want to learn this trade, my grandfather was a really bad ass machinist, anyhoo keep posting the vids its educational

  • @southofthegutter you will have to sacrifice some time and money to get educated at your local college or trade/tech school, brush up on your math, and pay attention to the experienced old-timers.

  • good i like ur tip normally i do from cutting tool putting paper underneath

  • @kamikim1 thanks for the kind comment.

  • nice, ive done this and wondered if i created the idea. WELP. i guess not!

  • @TheHeretic333 thanks for the kind comments

  • thanks man :D

  • I've welded and fabricated / made stuff from steel before. I used to receive a metal machinist magazine but I've never done any machinist work. I think knowing how to do metal machinist type work would be a very powerful thing to know. You'd pretty much know how to make anything then. Great video. Thanks /John

  • @bearing01 IMHO, wood-working is harder to grasp than metal-working. I know what the metal is gonna do but the wood has a grain and you gotta known what you can do to that particular piece of wood or it will bust or crack. And those folks know how to make it pretty too!! I don't like working with wood and those who do have my utmost professional respect. Now if someone could figure out how to weld wood I would consider giving it another try!

  • Genuine engineering! Thanks for the tip and greetings from Athens, Greece

  • @sanagnos123 have fun with it so you can put your indicator in a safe place cause you won't need it near as much.

  • Genuine engineering! Thanks for the tip and greetings from Athens, Greece

  • real cool! thanks for the idea.

  • @wwxplugins thanks. amazing with some of the ideas folks come up with after operating a lathe for 20 years.

  • thanks sir,always great to learn.

  • @stratocaster1greg you are welcome. hope this simple technique makes everyones lathe experience easier.

  • @popnstart hows it going. Not bad but when you dial-up cylindrical piece, i would leave dial indicator on workpiece while dialing up so you know excactly where your at. (no need to check). top tip all the same

  • @aaronfromnz1 most work done using a lathe within a couple thou. is close enough. If it gotta be more precise put between centers or use an O.D. grinder. I often tell folks a grinder will make a liar out of a mill or lathe.

  • @popnstart Not to bad but leaving dial indicator on while dialing up cylindrical piece would take out the guess work and eliminate the need to 'check'

  • @aaronfromnz1 most work done using a lathe within a couple thou. is close enough. If it gotta be more precise put between centers or use an O.D. grinder. I often tell folks a grinder will make a liar out of a mill or lathe.