What a brilliant marketing effort: make a informative, easy to understand video on replacing brake lines showing people how easy it is and sell brake line replacement kits. Again, brilliant. I got to hand it you. I'm now going to leave youtube and go over to STG.com and place my order.
Great video, thanks! A question, rather than use the speed bleeder bag, would it make sense to use a length of clear line and just run that from the bleeder valve direct back into your bottle of brake fluid?
wow man thanks - i saw your video ages ago and convinced me i could do it - bought a mitivac kit, but i stupidly forgot about the nipple at the master!!! - it took me about 3 + hours because i bleed from the furthest nipple! I ended up with a lever that was 'sort of' ok.
I decided to watch your video again -saw the master nipple and the correct sequence and now my lever is awesome!
please help me dude.. um in a serious problem... i have a HONDA HORNET 250cc.. i wanted to bleed brake oil.. so i did it... but now i can't pressure up the break unit again... (front break) :( :( :( what can i do with this now???
I've never changed the brake lines on my bike before, but having watched all your videos through, starting with Brake Line Install Part 1 - I am very grateful to you for showing us so clearly how to do this. You cover everything, slowly and methodically. Thanks a lot! I'm going to order some new brake lines now and save myself a packet on workshop costs. :o)
but one thing that yall didnt say is that when you do the method of pumping the lever then pulling it when you open it you have to close it before the lever is pulled all the way in.
just did this to my brakes and they feel stronger than they did from the factory!
I did the no no I let my master cylinder run dry now I have no brake pressure and I tried to bleed the brakes but no fluid is coming what is the next step?
Hi top video guys but how much to tighten the banjo bolt after braided brake lines in and also bleed nipples how much to tighten them as I don't want to over do mine!!
Just a thought: Replacing the DOT 4 with DOT 5 will not improve your braking power or anything like that so just stick with what the manufacturer says. DOT 5 has higher boiling point that DOT 4 but attracts more water and it is used mainly in racing so for the road and track days DOT 4 is perfect.
I installed speed bleeders on my bike and it makes bleeding the lines incredibly easy. You don't have to keep opening and closing the bleed valve, like they show in this video. Great investment, IMO.
I had been trying to bleed my front brakes for the past two days now and nothing seemed to work. I had used DOT 3 car brake fluid in an attempt to fill the reservoir. (DUMMY). But after seeing this video, this process seemed so easy to do. Before I proceed, will the DOT 3 that I had used damage the brake lines/caliper, etc.? How many bottle of fluid should I use? It seemed you guys had bleeded alot of fluid out. That fluid in the bag can be used again correct? Thanks.
@yagger72 No you will need to replace that with DOT4 fluid. The 3 should not hurt anyting, it just needs to be replaced with the proper fluid. As far as the fluid in the bag goes do not reuse that.
You sould be able to get this done with one pint bottle of fluid.
I recently tore apart the calipers on a 1982 cm450 Honda to clean everything, and had to replace the master cylinder. After reassembling everything, I just cannot get the darned thing to start bleeding. There is no valve on the master cylinder, only on the calipers. It just sucks and blows air out of the valve. Anything I can try to fix it? I can afford a bleeding kit, but if I can do it without, I'd love to save the money.
What company makes the Power Bleeder that you reference, ie that uses an air compressor...? Is it Motive? or some other company...? Does sportbiketrackgear sell the power bleeder? (didn't see on website..) thx
@djcjh We do offer one made by Mighty Vac. It is in the brake category for each bike. Shoot me an email at service@sportbiketrackgear and I will send you a link
you should always create pressure in the line by pumping the lever/pedal FIRST & HOLD IT, then pop open the valve, and shut it. thats the proper pway to do it.
(and dont you always start on the furthest caliper away from the master?)
@imstricken06 In theory you would start at the circuit furthest away from the master. With a bike the reality is they are nearly the same. Starting at either caliper with a two line kit will be fine. Follow the procedure in this video and you will have no worries.
i dont know y he did it that way the first time, then did it the correct way halfway the video. hmmm... is there a reason for this? ive been a mechanic for 8 yrs and both cars and bikes, i do it for me the correct way which is pump it first, hold it, then open the valves and let the bubbles out and get a good pressure, then close the valves, then release until the bubbles are gone and you got a good pressure and feeling
@akaQ9 My background is 20 years in auto repair. The easiest way to get the fluid moving initially when the system has been serviced is to open the screw, have the helper squeeze and hold the lever, close the screw and then have the helper release. Once I have fluid flowing I then have the helper pump the lever and hold. I have literally done this thousands of times and it works well.
@Sportbiketrackgear hmm, i didnt know that. I've always done it the other way for regular bleeding. But it would make sense to me if the master cylinder is brand new. At least for cars, i bench bleed the master cylinder first before installing it, then bleed the system like i normally do. I've never done it your way which is to open the valve first before pumping it, specially with fluid in it, coz that just pulls air in. Anyway, ill try ur way next time on my r1, ill c wat happens. tnx
@macfahad Use a turkey baster and suck the brake reservior dry. Refill the reservior with new fluid and bleed the system while refilling the reservior a few times during the process
@Sportbiketrackgear I can't get it to work? Do I haft to make a vacuum to the jar first? What I did was that I made a hose to a jar and made it airtight. And then I did what you did in the video, but it doesn't come anything out? I can see the brake fluid inside the bleed screw...
@LOOTS243 The reservior for the old fluid does not need to be air tight. If you have an air tight container that can not expand that might even be a problem. First vent your jar. Now begin by filling the system with all the bleeder screws tight. Begin with the screw on the left caliper. Open the screw, squeeze the lever and hold, now tighten the screw. Repeat this on both sides until you have fluid flowing on each one. This will get the fluid moving so you can complete the process
@Sportbiketrackgear Ok thanks! I will try that. So I just haft to bleed the brakes until it is coming fluid out of the hose? It can take up to 10 min or more before the fluid comes out right?
@Philscbx The brake fluid will expand when hot. A pocket of air must be maintained in the reservior to allow for this expansion. If there is no where for the fluid to go the brakes could drag and overheat etc...
@Sportbiketrackgear Master cylinder cap is vented along the threads. System will not function period w/o vent. Apply brake, release brake, each action allows fluid to move out & return to master. All brakes would lock up if not vented. Set up video, fill master to the top, put cap on, squeeze just one caliper. What just happened? Better get rags ready. Can't have expansion w/o back pressure. Expansion vents neutral atmospheric. 40yrs in the biz. Cheers
@Philscbx You have forgotten the rubber seal/bladder that is under the cap. This seals against the surface of the reservior which is flat and smooth when the cap is tightened.
As brakes wear the baldder under the cap will then occupy the space formerly occupied by the brake fluid which is now in the calipers as the pads have worn and the void must be filled. This is not possible if the system were to be vented as the bladder would not move downward.
Thank you all so much. Helped me and my dad bleed his brakes on his custom Suzuki GS 550 ES bored out to a 708 with ported and polished head. 1 step closer to being ridable. Thanks guys.
Thanks for the super video. After watching I was able to better understand my shop manual and bleed the front brake on my son's TTR 125L in just a few minutes.
I have a Suzuki SV 1000s, it doesn't have bleeding valve at the top just the two on the bottom. Is there something different I should do? thanks for the help
this video is perfect. thanks for making it. i tried changing the fluids all day with stuff from forums, but after watching this, i got it done it 20 mins.
i have tried this several times for a mile the brake pedal is perfect then all of a sudden when i apply brakes the pedal goes completely down and the bike never brakes ..whats wrong ?
@319PurpleHaze You may have a faulty master cylinder or a leak in the brake system. If you are not comfortable diagnosing this please take it in to the shop.
Thanks for the video. For the second time, I've read instructions on how to perform some maintenance on my bike and I didn't quite understand the procedure until I saw it on video. This is a big help. I will bleed mine this Saturday. My front brake lever, when squeezed, feels like you're squeezing grains of rice in a Ziploc bag. You squeeze it and just when you think you've squeeze it the lever to the max, you can squeeze further. I think it's time! (I'm going to check the pads too.)
@hermogino The power bleeder using an air compressor is the easiest way. It is very easy to do. Basically you hook one end to the compressor, the other to the bleeder screw. You then squeeze the trigger on the power bleeder and crack the bleeder screw open. You will see the fluid flowing in the hose of the power bleeder into the tank of the bleeder. Close the bleeder screw and then release the handle on the power bleeder.
great vid; covered all the basics without missing anything and all visible on the video. I've seen the hand pump tools, but since I have an air compressor, I was hoping you'd give just a bit more detail on the "air compressor" method? Any insights? - sounds awesomely fast!
great vid; covered all the basics without missing anything and all visible on the video. I've seen the hand pump tools, but since I have an air compressor, I was hoping you'd give just a bit more detail on the "air compressor" method? Any insights? - sounds awesomely fast!
I was going about 25 mph the other day when my front brakes started to grab harder and harder until i had to come to a stop...my front brake lever was hard as a rock and after I broke out the tool bag and released the pressure from the calipers via the bleed valves i rode it back home within a quarter mile...While I was releasing the pressure I noticed my front brake lever would only go in about halfway before hitting some kind of a stop and would not go any further Why did it do this? Thanx
One thing i would add is to ziptie down the lever overnight so there is pressure in the lines and it gets ride of the last air bubbles if any as they rise. But thats just how i do it.
i know this is old vid but i just saw it cause i am looking to get all black lines for my 08 blade and wanted to know what fluid i should get.. DOT5.1 right?
Wonderful video. You guys saved my weekend. I tried using one of those vacuum devices and could never get it to work. Your method was a lot simpler and better. Thank you very much.
My front breaks go soft the more the front wheel spins. If i pump the lever it will get had again but once the front wheen starts spining it gets soft again. Any idea why this is?
My front breaks go soft the more the front wheel spins. If i pump the lever it will get had again but once the front wheen starts spining it gets soft again. Any idea why this is?
what about using a torque wrench to make sure every thing is properly torqued? lol. you always need to put it tighter than what it specs any ways. great vid tho.
Your shop videos are a great help, lads. I'd recently purchased myself a chain and sprocket kit and was on the point of sending it off to have it fitted when I saw your other vid about how to do it yourself.
Now I'm bleeding my brakes and whaddya know. STG come up trumps again. Cheers.
i did it all on my R6 but my brake lever need´s to be pulled all the way to the handlebar to stop the bike, is that air in the lines? i also used DOT 5.1 instead of DOT 3 & 4 would that be the issue?
if your brake is still feeling 'crunchy' it might just be that you need to lube up the pivot point of your brake lever. Try putting some axle grease in there and see if it helps.
well, it`s more like squeezing a sponge, like a soft spring rebound feel. it used to be more precise when applying the front brake before this guy replaced the old fluid, would you say that could be considered unsafe for braking?
Ya I would say its unsafe. The two main safety features of your bike are your tires and brakes,you want both to be in perfect operating condition. I bled my brakes today using a 4 foot length of 3/8 inch vinyl tubing like the one in the video, except the one i bought cost $1.44 and I had it empty into a glass bottle. In this video there's tons of bubbles coming out of the lines. You dont want any bubbles at all. If you dont have any air in your lines, you might need to service your calipers.
Excellent video and an excellent product! I was able to install my lines this morning with no issues at all. The adjustable banjo fitting was helpful because I did need to rotate it a little. Your videos were very helpful.
What a brilliant marketing effort: make a informative, easy to understand video on replacing brake lines showing people how easy it is and sell brake line replacement kits. Again, brilliant. I got to hand it you. I'm now going to leave youtube and go over to STG.com and place my order.
zenrr1 5 hours ago
Great video, thanks! A question, rather than use the speed bleeder bag, would it make sense to use a length of clear line and just run that from the bleeder valve direct back into your bottle of brake fluid?
thunzie 1 month ago
@thunzie No that would contaminate the fluid in the bottle. Never reuse brake fluid or mix new and old fluid.
Sportbiketrackgear 1 month ago
Awesome vid STG. I was able to bleed my front and back breaks today with the parts I ordered from you thanks to this vid.
Never done it before but had total confidence doing it. Thanks for helping me save money by knowing how to do this myself!
TheRaulr151 1 month ago
a tube and a poly bag but a 2 man job but stll the best way
GitaneMan 1 month ago
wow man thanks - i saw your video ages ago and convinced me i could do it - bought a mitivac kit, but i stupidly forgot about the nipple at the master!!! - it took me about 3 + hours because i bleed from the furthest nipple! I ended up with a lever that was 'sort of' ok.
I decided to watch your video again -saw the master nipple and the correct sequence and now my lever is awesome!
THANKS VERY MUCH FOR YOUR VIDEO!
Zed100000 2 months ago
please help me dude.. um in a serious problem... i have a HONDA HORNET 250cc.. i wanted to bleed brake oil.. so i did it... but now i can't pressure up the break unit again... (front break) :( :( :( what can i do with this now???
jayakody101 3 months ago
@jayakody101 If you have followed these steps closely and have a problem you have a part failure. What method are you using?
Sportbiketrackgear 3 months ago
Comment removed
jayakody101 3 months ago
I've never changed the brake lines on my bike before, but having watched all your videos through, starting with Brake Line Install Part 1 - I am very grateful to you for showing us so clearly how to do this. You cover everything, slowly and methodically. Thanks a lot! I'm going to order some new brake lines now and save myself a packet on workshop costs. :o)
XmisterIS 3 months ago
great video guys.
but one thing that yall didnt say is that when you do the method of pumping the lever then pulling it when you open it you have to close it before the lever is pulled all the way in.
just did this to my brakes and they feel stronger than they did from the factory!
bobwatters 3 months ago
I did the no no I let my master cylinder run dry now I have no brake pressure and I tried to bleed the brakes but no fluid is coming what is the next step?
Wiizy23 4 months ago
Thanks a bunch!
vicenterr7 5 months ago
Hi top video guys but how much to tighten the banjo bolt after braided brake lines in and also bleed nipples how much to tighten them as I don't want to over do mine!!
Cheers Paul
AlpinestarsR6 5 months ago
You guys are life savers!! Great video!!! Thanks!!!
klaytonreed 5 months ago
My z1000 takes DOT3
smokeyvv 5 months ago
Excellent video. Thank you bery much.
6andrew2 6 months ago 2
@6andrew2 No worries we are here to help
Sportbiketrackgear 6 months ago 3
is not good metod
mastenas 6 months ago
@mastenas This is tried and tested use with complete confidence.
Sportbiketrackgear 6 months ago
@Sportbiketrackgear I remembered later that my method was for single kaliper
mastenas 5 months ago
@Sportbiketrackgear said that because I thought it could damage the thread of Kaliper
mastenas 5 months ago
@Sportbiketrackgear the ideal is a vacuum system
mastenas 5 months ago
@mastenas
You think you could come up with something more than half a sentence fragment to support your argument?
opmike343 5 months ago
@mastenas this is the exact method described in service manuals.
CeletenteFan223 1 month ago
Great job guys helped me out a lot
shortyjk95 7 months ago
thanks for the video
Milenko gsxr k7
bosnia and herzegovina
mileni1234567 7 months ago
Did you wear that watch to match the Bike:)
Great vid. I am going to do my brakes myself now
dstaffx 7 months ago
Just a thought: Replacing the DOT 4 with DOT 5 will not improve your braking power or anything like that so just stick with what the manufacturer says. DOT 5 has higher boiling point that DOT 4 but attracts more water and it is used mainly in racing so for the road and track days DOT 4 is perfect.
a6km 8 months ago
@a6km Using DOT 5.1 in place of DOT 4 is perfectly acceptable. Do not use standard dot 5 unless the system calls for it specifically.
Sportbiketrackgear 8 months ago
@a6km Yes follow the same procedure using the available bleeder screws.
Sportbiketrackgear 8 months ago
awesome video guys..really helped me out
BoostedSV 8 months ago
I installed speed bleeders on my bike and it makes bleeding the lines incredibly easy. You don't have to keep opening and closing the bleed valve, like they show in this video. Great investment, IMO.
pbeens 8 months ago
Thanks guys. Any idea about older bikes? I can bleed it the same right? But There's less bleed valves right?
johnny21usaf 9 months ago
great video watched it time and time again,nice and clear great keep up the good work i love thay bike mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm lol
wayne840 10 months ago
Thanks a bunch! I have pressure on my brakes now. I used a DOT 5.1 instead of DOT 4 stated on top of the reservoir. I think this should be fine.
yagger72 10 months ago
@yagger72 The 5.1 fluid is perfect. Glad we could help!
Van
Sportbiketrackgear 10 months ago 2
I had been trying to bleed my front brakes for the past two days now and nothing seemed to work. I had used DOT 3 car brake fluid in an attempt to fill the reservoir. (DUMMY). But after seeing this video, this process seemed so easy to do. Before I proceed, will the DOT 3 that I had used damage the brake lines/caliper, etc.? How many bottle of fluid should I use? It seemed you guys had bleeded alot of fluid out. That fluid in the bag can be used again correct? Thanks.
yagger72 10 months ago
@yagger72 No you will need to replace that with DOT4 fluid. The 3 should not hurt anyting, it just needs to be replaced with the proper fluid. As far as the fluid in the bag goes do not reuse that.
You sould be able to get this done with one pint bottle of fluid.
Sportbiketrackgear 10 months ago
Thanks for this video, was having trouble bleeding my front, worked first try doing it like you do!
Thx
Anthooonyyy 10 months ago
@Anthooonyyy Glad this helped!
Sportbiketrackgear 10 months ago
I recently tore apart the calipers on a 1982 cm450 Honda to clean everything, and had to replace the master cylinder. After reassembling everything, I just cannot get the darned thing to start bleeding. There is no valve on the master cylinder, only on the calipers. It just sucks and blows air out of the valve. Anything I can try to fix it? I can afford a bleeding kit, but if I can do it without, I'd love to save the money.
trentger1 10 months ago
@trentger1 Please email me direct and I will help out. service at sportbiketrackgear
Van
Sportbiketrackgear 10 months ago
This has been perfect! I wasn't aware it needed to be so precise. Your technique is impressive.
Thank you!
djdonnelly1 10 months ago
thanks this was just what I was looking for!
Deadsmple 11 months ago
Great video
delawarelocal 11 months ago
@delawarelocal Thank you
Sportbiketrackgear 11 months ago
What company makes the Power Bleeder that you reference, ie that uses an air compressor...? Is it Motive? or some other company...? Does sportbiketrackgear sell the power bleeder? (didn't see on website..) thx
djcjh 11 months ago
@djcjh We do offer one made by Mighty Vac. It is in the brake category for each bike. Shoot me an email at service@sportbiketrackgear and I will send you a link
Sportbiketrackgear 11 months ago
Reverse bleed works better : )
iliketoparty46 1 year ago
if you open the valve first, you draw air IN.
you should always create pressure in the line by pumping the lever/pedal FIRST & HOLD IT, then pop open the valve, and shut it. thats the proper pway to do it.
(and dont you always start on the furthest caliper away from the master?)
imstricken06 1 year ago
@imstricken06 In theory you would start at the circuit furthest away from the master. With a bike the reality is they are nearly the same. Starting at either caliper with a two line kit will be fine. Follow the procedure in this video and you will have no worries.
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
This was a great video. I was able to bleed my brakes by myself and it only took a few minutes. Please post any other videos on motorcycle repairs,
prplnite88 1 year ago
@prplnite88 Keep your eye on our channel as we have a whole series on the way now
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
great video you guys
wagner03mustang 1 year ago
i dont know y he did it that way the first time, then did it the correct way halfway the video. hmmm... is there a reason for this? ive been a mechanic for 8 yrs and both cars and bikes, i do it for me the correct way which is pump it first, hold it, then open the valves and let the bubbles out and get a good pressure, then close the valves, then release until the bubbles are gone and you got a good pressure and feeling
akaQ9 1 year ago
@akaQ9 My background is 20 years in auto repair. The easiest way to get the fluid moving initially when the system has been serviced is to open the screw, have the helper squeeze and hold the lever, close the screw and then have the helper release. Once I have fluid flowing I then have the helper pump the lever and hold. I have literally done this thousands of times and it works well.
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
@Sportbiketrackgear hmm, i didnt know that. I've always done it the other way for regular bleeding. But it would make sense to me if the master cylinder is brand new. At least for cars, i bench bleed the master cylinder first before installing it, then bleed the system like i normally do. I've never done it your way which is to open the valve first before pumping it, specially with fluid in it, coz that just pulls air in. Anyway, ill try ur way next time on my r1, ill c wat happens. tnx
akaQ9 1 year ago
I just bought these spiegler lines from you. These video's you posted were a nice helping hand on the install...thanks!
saleen308 1 year ago
Thanks for this video it's very useful about time i got around to changing my break fluid since its 3 years old....
smugtugboat 1 year ago
@smugtugboat no worries
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
Thanks, gonna bleed it asap. my brakes are in a mess with air.
TheTrinijoseph 1 year ago
If Im replacing brake fluid, I should first flush out as much brake fluid as i can? how should that part go?
macfahad 1 year ago
@macfahad Use a turkey baster and suck the brake reservior dry. Refill the reservior with new fluid and bleed the system while refilling the reservior a few times during the process
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
@Sportbiketrackgear Thanks. Job done, thanks to this video.
macfahad 1 year ago
Thanks for tutorial! :P
LOOTS243 1 year ago
@LOOTS243 No worries
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
@Sportbiketrackgear I can't get it to work? Do I haft to make a vacuum to the jar first? What I did was that I made a hose to a jar and made it airtight. And then I did what you did in the video, but it doesn't come anything out? I can see the brake fluid inside the bleed screw...
Thanks for the answer! :P
LOOTS243 1 year ago
@LOOTS243 The reservior for the old fluid does not need to be air tight. If you have an air tight container that can not expand that might even be a problem. First vent your jar. Now begin by filling the system with all the bleeder screws tight. Begin with the screw on the left caliper. Open the screw, squeeze the lever and hold, now tighten the screw. Repeat this on both sides until you have fluid flowing on each one. This will get the fluid moving so you can complete the process
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
@Sportbiketrackgear Ok thanks! I will try that. So I just haft to bleed the brakes until it is coming fluid out of the hose? It can take up to 10 min or more before the fluid comes out right?
LOOTS243 1 year ago
can you make a how to change tires on the same R1? i'd appreciate it
thx for the work !!
4fyussef 1 year ago
First, be gentle. Fluid agitation creates micro bubbles.
6 hrs later, bleed again to be 100%.
1 micro bubble can sit in middle of 3' line.
Pump master cylinder holding it down, then crack bleeder.
As was done in the last portion.
Less chance of air bubbles returning to caliper.
Reason not to over fill master, the cap has to breath.
It will leak, if you squeeze caliper, making pistons force back fluid.
You just applied paint stripper, if not DOT4 or better. # is heat related.
Philscbx 1 year ago
@Philscbx The brake fluid will expand when hot. A pocket of air must be maintained in the reservior to allow for this expansion. If there is no where for the fluid to go the brakes could drag and overheat etc...
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
Philscbx 1 year ago
@Philscbx You have forgotten the rubber seal/bladder that is under the cap. This seals against the surface of the reservior which is flat and smooth when the cap is tightened.
As brakes wear the baldder under the cap will then occupy the space formerly occupied by the brake fluid which is now in the calipers as the pads have worn and the void must be filled. This is not possible if the system were to be vented as the bladder would not move downward.
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
Thank you all so much. Helped me and my dad bleed his brakes on his custom Suzuki GS 550 ES bored out to a 708 with ported and polished head. 1 step closer to being ridable. Thanks guys.
LevKaursin 1 year ago
Thanks for the super video. After watching I was able to better understand my shop manual and bleed the front brake on my son's TTR 125L in just a few minutes.
123glh 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I have a Suzuki SV 1000s, it doesn't have bleeding valve at the top just the two on the bottom. Is there something different I should do? thanks for the help
JIVTUKEY 1 year ago
this video is perfect. thanks for making it. i tried changing the fluids all day with stuff from forums, but after watching this, i got it done it 20 mins.
ithinkimjoe 1 year ago
@ithinkimjoe You are welcome no worries
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
Another thanks for a great video!! Applied this technique for the rear on my bike and it worked as demonstrated. [new subscriber]
IridiumVIII 1 year ago
@IridiumVIII No worries
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
Thanks for a great video guys, I learned a lot
etude1 1 year ago
@etude1 You are welcome.
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
i have tried this several times for a mile the brake pedal is perfect then all of a sudden when i apply brakes the pedal goes completely down and the bike never brakes ..whats wrong ?
i have tried this several times
319PurpleHaze 1 year ago
@319PurpleHaze You may have a faulty master cylinder or a leak in the brake system. If you are not comfortable diagnosing this please take it in to the shop.
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
thanks very much very usefull this explains purfect
MrWilliamssm 1 year ago
Really helpful video, thanks STG! Wasted so much of my time prior to this doing the wrong way.
arshishb 1 year ago
Thanks for the video. For the second time, I've read instructions on how to perform some maintenance on my bike and I didn't quite understand the procedure until I saw it on video. This is a big help. I will bleed mine this Saturday. My front brake lever, when squeezed, feels like you're squeezing grains of rice in a Ziploc bag. You squeeze it and just when you think you've squeeze it the lever to the max, you can squeeze further. I think it's time! (I'm going to check the pads too.)
hermogino 1 year ago
@hermogino The power bleeder using an air compressor is the easiest way. It is very easy to do. Basically you hook one end to the compressor, the other to the bleeder screw. You then squeeze the trigger on the power bleeder and crack the bleeder screw open. You will see the fluid flowing in the hose of the power bleeder into the tank of the bleeder. Close the bleeder screw and then release the handle on the power bleeder.
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
great vid; covered all the basics without missing anything and all visible on the video. I've seen the hand pump tools, but since I have an air compressor, I was hoping you'd give just a bit more detail on the "air compressor" method? Any insights? - sounds awesomely fast!
jkddaddy 1 year ago
great vid; covered all the basics without missing anything and all visible on the video. I've seen the hand pump tools, but since I have an air compressor, I was hoping you'd give just a bit more detail on the "air compressor" method? Any insights? - sounds awesomely fast!
jkddaddy 1 year ago
I was going about 25 mph the other day when my front brakes started to grab harder and harder until i had to come to a stop...my front brake lever was hard as a rock and after I broke out the tool bag and released the pressure from the calipers via the bleed valves i rode it back home within a quarter mile...While I was releasing the pressure I noticed my front brake lever would only go in about halfway before hitting some kind of a stop and would not go any further Why did it do this? Thanx
rdhr151 1 year ago
I have a compressor, where do I get the power bleeder?
CaptSaveAHo3 1 year ago
One thing i would add is to ziptie down the lever overnight so there is pressure in the lines and it gets ride of the last air bubbles if any as they rise. But thats just how i do it.
e30Birdy 1 year ago
i know this is old vid but i just saw it cause i am looking to get all black lines for my 08 blade and wanted to know what fluid i should get.. DOT5.1 right?
e30Birdy 1 year ago
Wonderful video. You guys saved my weekend. I tried using one of those vacuum devices and could never get it to work. Your method was a lot simpler and better. Thank you very much.
bb4812 1 year ago
My front breaks go soft the more the front wheel spins. If i pump the lever it will get had again but once the front wheen starts spining it gets soft again. Any idea why this is?
IntoxicatedRebel 1 year ago
@IntoxicatedRebel could be your master cylander broke or you didnt bleed em all the way. Might want to have it checked out
e30Birdy 1 year ago
My front breaks go soft the more the front wheel spins. If i pump the lever it will get had again but once the front wheen starts spining it gets soft again. Any idea why this is?
IntoxicatedRebel 1 year ago
Top video guys.......now gonna put it to the test.....
gixxageeza 1 year ago
what about using a torque wrench to make sure every thing is properly torqued? lol. you always need to put it tighter than what it specs any ways. great vid tho.
irongiant101 1 year ago
mystery? dude, its freaking simple as it can be...theres no freaking mystery haha
hotandsweetbmw 1 year ago
Your shop videos are a great help, lads. I'd recently purchased myself a chain and sprocket kit and was on the point of sending it off to have it fitted when I saw your other vid about how to do it yourself.
Now I'm bleeding my brakes and whaddya know. STG come up trumps again. Cheers.
Nosteratees 1 year ago
good starter vid guys. You might want to emphasize that brake fluid will destroy your paint.
hydrasin1 1 year ago
thanks for help me. nice bike
MAURICIO BERALDO PY4MAB
BRAZIL
py4mab 1 year ago
thank guys!!!!!! really helpful!!
KombatMortal123 1 year ago
i did it all on my R6 but my brake lever need´s to be pulled all the way to the handlebar to stop the bike, is that air in the lines? i also used DOT 5.1 instead of DOT 3 & 4 would that be the issue?
flytopete 1 year ago
you should really use the correct brake fluid. Not sure what is is on an R6 but on my SV650 its DOT 4
hydrasin1 1 year ago 3
@hydrasin1
I bled the 5.1 fluid and refilled with DOT 4 instead and things changeda lot.
Nevertheless, i think the guy on the shop is not doing thing correctly since y still get a spoungy feel on the lever :(
flytopete 1 year ago
@flytopete
if your brake is still feeling 'crunchy' it might just be that you need to lube up the pivot point of your brake lever. Try putting some axle grease in there and see if it helps.
hydrasin1 1 year ago
@hydrasin1
well, it`s more like squeezing a sponge, like a soft spring rebound feel. it used to be more precise when applying the front brake before this guy replaced the old fluid, would you say that could be considered unsafe for braking?
flytopete 1 year ago
Ya I would say its unsafe. The two main safety features of your bike are your tires and brakes,you want both to be in perfect operating condition. I bled my brakes today using a 4 foot length of 3/8 inch vinyl tubing like the one in the video, except the one i bought cost $1.44 and I had it empty into a glass bottle. In this video there's tons of bubbles coming out of the lines. You dont want any bubbles at all. If you dont have any air in your lines, you might need to service your calipers.
hydrasin1 1 year ago
also, dont let that guy touch your bike anymore
hydrasin1 1 year ago
Great Video!! You guys explained everything very well including other options. You saved me a lot of money, thank you.
wzord 1 year ago
thanks for the vid really helped out
sonic913 1 year ago 5
You are welcome
Sportbiketrackgear 1 year ago
Real good video!! cheers
ttttrant01 2 years ago
Excellent video and an excellent product! I was able to install my lines this morning with no issues at all. The adjustable banjo fitting was helpful because I did need to rotate it a little. Your videos were very helpful.
nieseba2 2 years ago
Thanks. I could not even see what they were doing on the other videos that I watched.
petecurtis2 2 years ago
Awesome video guys, very informative!!
How about clutch bleeding? Same technique?
Cheers
stefanopola82 2 years ago
you guys should send me an STG t shirt because i am a huge fan !
MikSane 2 years ago
Sorry we are all out my brother
Sportbiketrackgear 2 years ago
I've watched a few vids on this topic on youtube and I have to say this one bumped up my confidence to do it myself! Great job guys!
flarehaze 2 years ago
Awsome Video guys!!!
Migoreng0 2 years ago
Thanks and enjoy, hope this helps
Sportbiketrackgear 2 years ago
Informative video, thanks for this!
binokoda 2 years ago