@JimmyPage968 I don't care for LSR roller nuts. I think it's a factory's solution to a problem (friction) that doesn't typically plague guitars that are tweaked and setup by knowledgeable tech. Also the lack of tweakability in regards to the action of individual strings and overall radius is limiting from a setup perspective.
Alas, no new videos are in the works for the time being. I'm in school full time and working 3 part time jobs... basta
@smbstressfest Well, me being a lefty, I can't have the option of LSR! I'll just go with GraphTech TUSQ XL, I have one on my Les Paul and it's great! Thanks for your perspective!
@AxekickerDotCom I think it's either in this video or the very next I address your point. The customer played a guitar of mine with a larger fretwire and liked it. So when faced with the decision as to whether or not he'd like to make this one play better and LOSE fret height or pay a little more, have a better playing guitar and GAIN fret height, he chose the latter.
@smbstressfest Cool, thanks for the reply. Quick question. I like VERY LOW action. I find I often have to level and file my frets past the 12th to achieve this. I have a decent fret file and crowner, but I have trouble shaping the frets and they often look flat and very low. Do the frets need to be a certain height? If so, why? Thanks!
@axekicker78 I hear you, recrowning frets is quite difficult. Fret height is mostly just personal preference. I for instance like very tall frets but I really don't care if they're narrow. Other players hate the feel of tall frets and prefer the wide ones. No hard and fast rules exist that I'm aware of, but speaking as a repair tech I think once a fret becomes < .025" tall from years or wear and/or redressings it's time to seriously consider a refret. Hope that helps.
@smbstressfest So I have a crowning file, but I don't see a major difference. I assume I should only move the file in one direction? I've also polished the frets with a dremmel and polish wheel from Stewmac. I'm watching your vids now determining if I should attempt a re-fret. I have the tools, but I'm nervous about it. Rather than keep filing my frets, I'm wondering if I should just sand the neck(s) to an 18" radius, and then fret. Thoughts?
@AxekickerDotCom i think the guy wants 6000 jumbo frets on it. thats why he wants a full refret. a good choice as i have jumbos frets on my strat neck wiht a compound radius of 9 to 12 radius.
@5150Nobozos I like the diamond recrowning files the best. Toothed files work fast but often leave deep scratches that are tough to remove when you're polishing the frets. Diamond files are expensive but worth the additional cost IMO. Maple necks are sometimes fussy when it comes to fret removal because of the finish that's usually sprayed on the top. Sometimes maple also burns due to the heat from your soldering gun when removing the frets. Keep the iron moving and try to work fast.
Thanks for posting these great videos. After watching these I started doing refrets recently after seeing how you did your refrets. You sure do great work. Looks like factory work after you do the refret.
I wanted to ask if you use the Dunlop 6000 and where are you buying it from? I bought some Dunlop 6100 from Warmoth but I really wanted to get the 6000, Warmoth said the batch they have isn't really much bigger than the 6100.
@5150Nobozos The last batch of Dunlop 6000 I bought came from a music store. Typically, stores can get tubes (20-2' straight pieces) of Dunlop "accu-fret" fretwire in any of the common sizes made. You might also be able to find pre-cut and radiused sets that are sufficient to refret one guitar. Do a google search and I'm sure you'll find a few online options as well.
Jason, I am a huge fan of your work. You are so attention to detail and a true luthier! I was wondering if I may send you a build but was wondering a price range. I bought a tele style body and a fender 50's RI neck and vintage hardware bridge. The body isnt string-thru so it will have to be drilled and the neck may need to be redrilled as well if the holes dont line up. What do you think????
hi jason sorry to bother you again. I'm wondering what would you think of this. I have a mint 2004 american series strat. I'm getting buzzes everywhere from 3rd fret up. D and G strings are the worst. truss or bridge adjustment can't fix it. all of the frets look very square, there's almost no crown at all, just a flat surface. looks like it was overdone with leveling? what do you suggest? I was thinking of leveling frets first, then if it worsens I'd go for a refret. thanks a lot
@seasonedtoker D and G string buzzes, sounds like a strat LOL. I notice this "chatter" a lot on Fender style guitars even when the fretwork is perfect. I wish I knew what caused it or more importantly, how to easily correct it. How much height is there to your frets? If there's enough height, you might just consider having them recrowned. Sometimes fret chatter seems to increase with surface area. So if you have a really flat crown, the problem can be magnified by this.
@smbstressfest as I don't own a crowning file what's my best choice - a 3-sided jewlers file or sandpaper on a stick and sand it on the sides? do I have to straighten the neck first too?
@Thirdgen83 I thought I explained very clearly that this guitar didn't NEED a refret at all, the owner simply wanted the frets replaced with the Dunlop 6000's that I have in one of my guitars which he played and liked. Also, age has nothing to do with it. When a guitar needs either a fret leveling or a full refret has to do with usage and wear, NOT time.. I know acoustic players that require refrets about once a year, and there are players who NEVER seem to wear out frets.
@shreddernuo When you're refretting the guitar you mean, not necessarily. Some necks are fairly stable and look identical under tension (with truss rod adjustment of course) as they do unstrung with the truss rod loosened, each neck is different. I like having the option of recreating string tension when I encounter a neck that is less than perfect in this regard. If this will be your first refret, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND practicing on a scrap guitar first. Learn on an a cheap axe first.
Wow man!! This is probably the best instructional video i have ever seen in my life, all the parts of it. I whish i could give you 100 thumbs up. This is really really really good! Congratulations and God bless you !! :))))
i've got a parker fly that has a carbon based fretboard. 3 of my frets have come loose, i've since removed them. i need to put them back on, what would you suggest?
@nihility666 The USA Parker guitars' frets are bonded to the fingerboard right? If someone brought be a Parker guitar with missing frets, I'd most likely recommend sending it back to the factory for repair.
@smbstressfest they're not missing, i was able to slide the high e string under the 1st, 3rd and 7th frets and POP, off they came. (was getting god awful fretbuz) ive sent parker an e-mail on the 28th. yet to hear from them. It is a USA model.
@nihility666 Good luck is all I can really say. The store I work at used to be a Parker Dealer. I don't know how they are in the repair department, but it sure does take them a long time to deliver when you ORDER a guitar.
im considering refretting my epiphone les paul... How much did you charge for this whole process, and how much more/less would a gibson style refrett cost? Thanks
Is it possible to refret a Strat without taking the neck off? I'm just scared that every time the neck comes off, that the neck threads are getting worn and the neck won't be as secure? Should I be worried?
@BluesVoodooo Yeah, you can but there's no real reason to fear taking the neck off. Don't worry about the neck screw holes wearing out, these guitars are designed to be taken apart as needed for repair and maintenance.
@doctorgone In that case, almost any product that's labeled "fingerboard oil", "fingerboard cleaner", or "fingerboard conditioner" would be ideal. These products are usually not an oil at all, but rather a petroleum distillate very similar to kerosene that feels oily to the touch. Apply the product to a clean paper towel and buff the fingerboard until dirt no longer comes off on the paper towel. You can use your fingernail to help in corners and on crud that's hardened on the surface.
Be careful NOT TO OVERSATURATE the fingerboard with whatever product you use. If the wood becomes soaked with ANY liquid it will swell, and this could contribute to loose fret ends.
If you ever need to do a more intense cleaning, you might try using the cleaner on a 0000 steel wool pad, and buffing with the grain, then finish up with a paper towel to help remove the steel wool residue.
I'll be shocked if nobody else jumps in here, offering "help" as well. When it comes to things like cleaning a fingerboard, nearly everyone seems to have strong opinions on how often to do it, and what products to use.
Let common sense dictate, if it's dirty clean it. No need to buy the expensive stuff either if you don't want to. Typical hardware store mineral spirits is a good cleaner, and a few drops of mineral oil on a paper towel applied to a clean fingerboard is an excellent finish.
jason, I know everything's a big deal but is it a super big deal to change the radius from 9.5 on a strat maple board to a 12 or even 16? I've done simple refrets and leveling but never really flattened a board much, just neatened them up a bit.
That's a pretty substantial undertaking. But I'm going to be converting a 9.5" to a 12" in my viewers' choice strat refret series coming up very soon. You might want to check that out...
Jason I must say your series on refretting and the detail you put into your work was very well done. I learned so much from your video's. I used your file method and they turned out great. When I removed the neck it had the mico tilt plug installed in it. Yet, nothing in the body. What are your thoughts on the mico-tilt feature versus shimming? I'm thinking of building this into the body but after watching you work would really appreciate your imput on this.
I know that Yngwie Malmsteen also use those DUNLOP 6000 FRET WIRE,
I also know that Stevie Ray Vaughan used the Dunlop 6105 FRET WIRE
Im very interested on Refretting my American Standard stratocaster maple neck, I love Jumbo frets but like you said the designation "jumbo" is completely arbitrary.
my question is,
whats the difrence between the dunlop 6000 and the dunlop 6105 if both of them are called Jumbo frets?
Iv played my Ibanez rg270dx for 6 years, it has a great amount of fret wear but it certainly does not buzz. Other people have played my guitar and they say the action is to high. I play very aggressively and when playing there guitars with my playing style its usually a buzz here and there when i dig in. I built my amp very strait forward, nuances really stick out and so would a buzzed fret. Granted intonation might suffer but i plan on making my own 'True Temperament ' neck to fix that.
different guitar players have different needs. good thing you customized your guitar, but as you said, if this guy adjusted the strings a little more away from the freatboard, it would feel good for people whose playing is more agressive like yours, but it wouldn´t feel comfortable for other players, I think it all depends on this guy´s customer needs and preferences, but however, if he need the strings set close to the fretboard, it can be done without any buzz, thats why he is fixing it
There is no BEST wire for a rosewood, maple, ebony or any other fingerboard material. The kind that you like is the best, that's all that matters. And I don't see a difference in the durability among the different types of 18% nickel silver fretwire, I think it's all mostly the same. A different alloy wire will be either less or more durable, but if the alloy is the same the only thing that's different is the size.
Mhm I see.. You're right, thanks a lot.. Now.. I want to change my frets in my Yamaha Pacifica, but I'm not sure what kind they are? I'd have to see other fret wires so I can compare.. How can I know which type they are? maybe they're jumbo frets..
They're 18% nickel silver frets, that's the industry standard. The designation "jumbo" is completely arbitrary, measure them for width and height with calipers for some useful empirical data and then compare those numbers to other guitars on which you like the size and feel of the fretwire.
Hi Jason, Pete from the UK here. How would your approach change for a maple fingerboard? I have a varnished maple fingerboard on a standard US telecaster that needs attention. It looks like the varnish/lacquer is applied with the frets in place.
Hey Pete, I would proceed as I did with the rosewood in the videos, and refinish after after I had the neck fretted but before the frets were leveled. That is, if the customer wanted to pay for me to re-spray. If not, I have a more cost effective technique that gives a good semi gloss look that's faster cheaper and easier. If they don't want even that expense, one coat of teak oil or birchwood casey tru-oil and we're done.
My strats mostly do the same thing, they "chatter" a lot on some strings. It's not really the same thing as a fret buzz, as it seems to be pretty even and consistent up and down the neck. When your new radius caul arrives compare it to the old one AND the guitar neck. It's possible that the radius differs on the guitar. I thought some of the highway one guitars were a flatter 12" radius... not sure though.
PART2 , i compared a 9.5 raduis circle to the caul and it proved the caul is not correct!! i was not a happy chap!! ive ordered a wooden one and hope it is accurate, was my theory correct in order to iron out minute tolerances on new guitar frets, im gutted, ive read some guys take from fret 17 to 22 down a bit more since the truss rod only gives relief at the centre of a neck?all my strats are a bit buzzy/choky on the A and D strings up after fret 15, any help appreciated,George rom Scotland
JASON, Help !!! i just bot a new highwat strat and thot to make it play cleaner with a lower action i would use a 9.5 radius corian caul i bought rom ebay,i quickly noticed the edges were going down b4 the centre of the frets,only a fraction but it plays even worse now, PART1
Hi Jason, Can you tell me how to go about or advise the best way to refret a Les Paul Custom with the edge binding over the frets? The binding is my RED FLAG. I am concerned with a good appearance. Thank You, Jake.
Are you talking about wanting to refret and keep the binding nibs? Most of the time we just file away the nibs since it's a lot of trouble to try and save them. I've never been asked to save binding nibs on a bound Gibson before, everyone has just said they didn't care about the nibs, they just wanted new frets.
Hello, I'm playing right now a '68 re-issue work cherry Gibson V and the fret wire on it is very high and boxy and overall uncomfortable. I've never played a Gibson like it so I was wondering if it would be easier to shave the frets down or to change the fret wire altogether. Please get back to me when you can thank you.
They may not need even to be leveled. I agree that often Gibson fretwork is "boxy". Sometimes the Gibson way of doing fret tops is referred to as "school bus" style. I'll bet there is a noticeable flat spot on the fret tops right? Often all you need to do is recrown them back to a true half round shape and the fretwire suddenly doesn't feel so high even though you didn't touch it in the very center. And when I this job, it is cheaper than a leveling OR a refret for sure. Hope that helps.
Any qualified repair tech or luthier could probably do it. I could do it but that guitar might be expensive to ship to southern Indiana depending on where you're at.
I have a gorgeous Ibanez RGT42 that has been my #1 since I got her five years ago. Unfortunately it's a neck-thru design, I play it daily and it's getting some fret buzz due to wear and the insanely low action I set up. Any suggestions? Can I polish the frets, or where do I determine when it needs a complete refretting?
I would recommend taking it to a competent repair tech and getting their opinion on the amount of fret wear and whether or not a leveling or refret is needed. If you keep a very low action, fret buzz may just be something you'll have to accept to some degree. By all means polish your frets if you'd like, but just understand this is aesthetic and doesn't really have an impact on performance of the instrument.
I have 2 guitars, one very similar to the one you do in this video (bolt on, 22 frets), and one that has a set-thru neck with binding. Could you tell me about how much it would cost to have these refretted? Also, do you do/know how to scallop fretboards and how much that might cost? Thanks.
Why is it more difficult to refret a gibson style in comparison? Awesome series by the way! Very informative, I am trying to learn more about working on guitars and would love to see more of your work.
The set neck design on the Gibson guitars don't allow us to work on the neck by itself. Being that the neck is always attached to the body, it makes it more tedious to install the frets AND you have to be much more careful clipping the ends after installation. Also the binding that's on many of the Gibson instruments means we have to precisely undercut the tang on each individual fret before we install. It's an extra step and it does slow you down.
You must be referring to my south midland American accent... LOL I can't always detect, let alone control it when I speak. But I always notice it when I hear a recording of my voice.
Hey just wanted to see if you could send me a private message, I had a few questions regarding pricing, and shipment of guitar from out of state. It is a 2008 Fender american strat with maple neck. Needs everything except refret! Thanks.
A standard string nut will stay in tune beautifully if it's made properly. The problem is always FRICTION. If a strat isn't staying in tune, the first thing I do is examine the string tree(s) if the guitar has them. Then you'll make sure the nut correctly slotted and backfiled. After that, the tremolo bridge becomes suspect. Sometimes if the mounting holes or studs are just a tiny bit out of alignment, you'll have tuning troubles as well.
Roller nuts CAN be effective at eliminating the friction that causes tuning instability, but standard nuts do the job just fine if they're properly filed. Also, roller nuts and locking nuts can be a real pain when it comes to tweaking the action over the first fret. Bottom line, if they were necessary for guitars to stay in tune, we'd see them on more instruments.
Certainly a double locking trem would be the most stable overall. As you pointed out, they don't allow movement, and so by extension... they also don't permit friction. I just want to make it clear for anyone out there who might be reading this, you don't HAVE to use a roller nut or a locking nut for your strat to stay in tune. But if you feel that's the best option to meet your needs, go for it.
well, he did say the fret ends wear sticking out a little bit and there was a bow. I can't remember which way. He said the truss rod nut was rounded and he used a special bit to adjust it. I never touched the rod but it could have been the guy before me. He said it seems common for the strats to have that problem of the rod neck access rounding out. He said it might be hard for me to adjust it myself.
hey jason, It's a good thing I didn't file anything! I took it to a guitar center and the tech told me my board is dry and that's causing the unevenness of the frets. It was probably golden when it left the factory. So I'm having him set it up for me now. Maybe I won't do everything myself after all.
I've never heard of a dry fingerboard causing "unevenness" in frets. Perhaps the neck was back bowed. But if the guitar was dry, usually the neck takes on forward bow, not back bow. Were there fret ends that were sticking out (not up) and feeling sharp? If not, I doubt the guitar was dry at all. We have to be cautious and skeptical of we're told at GC and other big box stores. Places like that aren't service oriented businesses. Buy 'em low, sell 'em high is what they do there.
I will say the strat has the most playablility of any guitar I've tried and will always be in love with it. Thanks for the feedback. I'll check out that book because I want to do every thing myself.
hey jason, I have an 06 strat and have one high fret. The 8th fret is about 3/4 mil high and it's causing buzz on 6 and 7 of the 6th string. I action is ok and the truss rod seems to be fine also. But I tried tapping it with a screwdriver handle and it didn't move a hair. Do you think i should file?
Hmm, hard to say... if you've never done fret work before, I can't really recommend you start on what is an otherwise good guitar. Most of us pop our repair tech cherry on some old junker first. Did you buy it from a local dealer, maybe there is a tech there who can do a little spot leveling for you? If you do decide to do it for yourself I'd recommend that you also read Dan Erlewine's "guitar player repair guide" or at least the section on fretwork first. Hope that helps...
I got it from a guy on craigslist in mint with the manual and accessories. It's an american made in corona CA. I just can't believe it got out of the shop! I tried to be patriotic here but I thought american was the best. The only guitar I had before was a china epi les paul and that thing was nothing more than a good piece of fire wood and sold it as soon as the strap button was working itself loose.
Hi Jason, I just wanted to say thanks for such a great collection of vids. I am a player, and I am going to have to get my Fender Prodigy re-fretted soon. These videos have helped me understand the process, and see all the work hours involved. Please keep em coming :)
question, my american delux didnt come with the lsr roller nut. should I NOT put one on it? I was thinking about having on installed...until I watched your videos and now I am having second thoughts....I await your reply
I don't like them at all. It makes it tough to adjust the action at the nut. I think it's fender's attempt at a fast (and therefore low cost) way to get a low friction string nut so their tremolo will actually stay in tune. A well made traditional string nut is adequate in most situations, if friction is an issue we can always use something slippery like delrin. Are you having tuning issues or something?
Hey Jason, what do you think of the LSR roller nut? Any new videos coming up?
JimmyPage968 1 week ago
@JimmyPage968 I don't care for LSR roller nuts. I think it's a factory's solution to a problem (friction) that doesn't typically plague guitars that are tweaked and setup by knowledgeable tech. Also the lack of tweakability in regards to the action of individual strings and overall radius is limiting from a setup perspective.
Alas, no new videos are in the works for the time being. I'm in school full time and working 3 part time jobs... basta
smbstressfest 1 week ago
@smbstressfest Well, me being a lefty, I can't have the option of LSR! I'll just go with GraphTech TUSQ XL, I have one on my Les Paul and it's great! Thanks for your perspective!
JimmyPage968 1 week ago
Wow an entire refret just because of some buzzing? Why not even out the frets instead?
AxekickerDotCom 1 month ago
@AxekickerDotCom I think it's either in this video or the very next I address your point. The customer played a guitar of mine with a larger fretwire and liked it. So when faced with the decision as to whether or not he'd like to make this one play better and LOSE fret height or pay a little more, have a better playing guitar and GAIN fret height, he chose the latter.
smbstressfest 1 month ago
@smbstressfest Cool, thanks for the reply. Quick question. I like VERY LOW action. I find I often have to level and file my frets past the 12th to achieve this. I have a decent fret file and crowner, but I have trouble shaping the frets and they often look flat and very low. Do the frets need to be a certain height? If so, why? Thanks!
axekicker78 1 month ago
@axekicker78 I hear you, recrowning frets is quite difficult. Fret height is mostly just personal preference. I for instance like very tall frets but I really don't care if they're narrow. Other players hate the feel of tall frets and prefer the wide ones. No hard and fast rules exist that I'm aware of, but speaking as a repair tech I think once a fret becomes < .025" tall from years or wear and/or redressings it's time to seriously consider a refret. Hope that helps.
smbstressfest 1 month ago
@smbstressfest So I have a crowning file, but I don't see a major difference. I assume I should only move the file in one direction? I've also polished the frets with a dremmel and polish wheel from Stewmac. I'm watching your vids now determining if I should attempt a re-fret. I have the tools, but I'm nervous about it. Rather than keep filing my frets, I'm wondering if I should just sand the neck(s) to an 18" radius, and then fret. Thoughts?
AxekickerDotCom 1 month ago
@AxekickerDotCom i think the guy wants 6000 jumbo frets on it. thats why he wants a full refret. a good choice as i have jumbos frets on my strat neck wiht a compound radius of 9 to 12 radius.
who8allthepies 1 month ago
Hey Jason,
Thanks for the reply, I wanted to ask which crowning file you feel works best?
I'm about to try to refret a Squier maple strat neck and I wanted to try to get an idea what problems you run into on maple neck refrets?
thanks
5150Nobozos 2 months ago
@5150Nobozos I like the diamond recrowning files the best. Toothed files work fast but often leave deep scratches that are tough to remove when you're polishing the frets. Diamond files are expensive but worth the additional cost IMO. Maple necks are sometimes fussy when it comes to fret removal because of the finish that's usually sprayed on the top. Sometimes maple also burns due to the heat from your soldering gun when removing the frets. Keep the iron moving and try to work fast.
smbstressfest 1 month ago
Hey Jason,
Thanks for posting these great videos. After watching these I started doing refrets recently after seeing how you did your refrets. You sure do great work. Looks like factory work after you do the refret.
I wanted to ask if you use the Dunlop 6000 and where are you buying it from? I bought some Dunlop 6100 from Warmoth but I really wanted to get the 6000, Warmoth said the batch they have isn't really much bigger than the 6100.
Thanks
5150Nobozos 2 months ago
@5150Nobozos The last batch of Dunlop 6000 I bought came from a music store. Typically, stores can get tubes (20-2' straight pieces) of Dunlop "accu-fret" fretwire in any of the common sizes made. You might also be able to find pre-cut and radiused sets that are sufficient to refret one guitar. Do a google search and I'm sure you'll find a few online options as well.
smbstressfest 2 months ago
Jason, I am a huge fan of your work. You are so attention to detail and a true luthier! I was wondering if I may send you a build but was wondering a price range. I bought a tele style body and a fender 50's RI neck and vintage hardware bridge. The body isnt string-thru so it will have to be drilled and the neck may need to be redrilled as well if the holes dont line up. What do you think????
kdjfnvjvd 2 months ago
@kdjfnvjvd I'll send you a PM and we can talk about it.
smbstressfest 2 months ago
hi jason sorry to bother you again. I'm wondering what would you think of this. I have a mint 2004 american series strat. I'm getting buzzes everywhere from 3rd fret up. D and G strings are the worst. truss or bridge adjustment can't fix it. all of the frets look very square, there's almost no crown at all, just a flat surface. looks like it was overdone with leveling? what do you suggest? I was thinking of leveling frets first, then if it worsens I'd go for a refret. thanks a lot
seasonedtoker 2 months ago
@seasonedtoker D and G string buzzes, sounds like a strat LOL. I notice this "chatter" a lot on Fender style guitars even when the fretwork is perfect. I wish I knew what caused it or more importantly, how to easily correct it. How much height is there to your frets? If there's enough height, you might just consider having them recrowned. Sometimes fret chatter seems to increase with surface area. So if you have a really flat crown, the problem can be magnified by this.
smbstressfest 2 months ago
@smbstressfest as I don't own a crowning file what's my best choice - a 3-sided jewlers file or sandpaper on a stick and sand it on the sides? do I have to straighten the neck first too?
seasonedtoker 2 months ago
@smbstressfest forgot to add - height is averaging from 1.04 to 1.09 mm. that's about 1/15''
seasonedtoker 2 months ago
Why would a guitar that's only 7 years-old need a re-fret?...
Thirdgen83 6 months ago
@Thirdgen83 I thought I explained very clearly that this guitar didn't NEED a refret at all, the owner simply wanted the frets replaced with the Dunlop 6000's that I have in one of my guitars which he played and liked. Also, age has nothing to do with it. When a guitar needs either a fret leveling or a full refret has to do with usage and wear, NOT time.. I know acoustic players that require refrets about once a year, and there are players who NEVER seem to wear out frets.
smbstressfest 6 months ago 2
@smbstressfest Yeah, I figured that out when I watched Part-2...
Thirdgen83 6 months ago
can you show us the scalloping process?
reehays 8 months ago
boys got some chops! :)
JgHaverty 8 months ago
hello jason,u can scallop the fretboard as well?
reehays 9 months ago
@reehays yes
smbstressfest 9 months ago
@shreddernuo When you're refretting the guitar you mean, not necessarily. Some necks are fairly stable and look identical under tension (with truss rod adjustment of course) as they do unstrung with the truss rod loosened, each neck is different. I like having the option of recreating string tension when I encounter a neck that is less than perfect in this regard. If this will be your first refret, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND practicing on a scrap guitar first. Learn on an a cheap axe first.
smbstressfest 10 months ago
A very useful lesson, you are a brilliant teacher and craftsman..
vision2sound 11 months ago
Dude stop it! It is not fair you play like crazy good and fix your own and other peoples instruments! Just , Just STOP IT!!!
azfryguy 11 months ago
Lovin' those licks at the end.
BjKnight91 1 year ago
Wow man!! This is probably the best instructional video i have ever seen in my life, all the parts of it. I whish i could give you 100 thumbs up. This is really really really good! Congratulations and God bless you !! :))))
megahurtz30 1 year ago
How much does a refret job usually costs?
306741lock 1 year ago
Lol sorry... Ne ways, used bass frets
Hornybroham 1 year ago
A lot of people don't know this but srv used v
Hornybroham 1 year ago
eyyy man this guy is Rudy..........rudy rudy rudy.....hahahaha...nice vid.
kartman74usa 1 year ago
i love your videos, i learn something every time!
RT101894 1 year ago
i've got a parker fly that has a carbon based fretboard. 3 of my frets have come loose, i've since removed them. i need to put them back on, what would you suggest?
nihility666 1 year ago
@nihility666 The USA Parker guitars' frets are bonded to the fingerboard right? If someone brought be a Parker guitar with missing frets, I'd most likely recommend sending it back to the factory for repair.
smbstressfest 1 year ago
@smbstressfest they're not missing, i was able to slide the high e string under the 1st, 3rd and 7th frets and POP, off they came. (was getting god awful fretbuz) ive sent parker an e-mail on the 28th. yet to hear from them. It is a USA model.
nihility666 1 year ago
@nihility666 Good luck is all I can really say. The store I work at used to be a Parker Dealer. I don't know how they are in the repair department, but it sure does take them a long time to deliver when you ORDER a guitar.
smbstressfest 1 year ago
what a beautiful guitar. your videos help me because im refreting a piece of crap ernie ball copy guitar
deanrockerr1994 1 year ago
im considering refretting my epiphone les paul... How much did you charge for this whole process, and how much more/less would a gibson style refrett cost? Thanks
TheSoultrain515 1 year ago
@TheSoultrain515 I'll send you some pricing info in a PM.
smbstressfest 1 year ago
@smbstressfest
Is it possible to refret a Strat without taking the neck off? I'm just scared that every time the neck comes off, that the neck threads are getting worn and the neck won't be as secure? Should I be worried?
Thanks for the awsome videos - Tom
BluesVoodooo 11 months ago
@BluesVoodooo Yeah, you can but there's no real reason to fear taking the neck off. Don't worry about the neck screw holes wearing out, these guitars are designed to be taken apart as needed for repair and maintenance.
smbstressfest 11 months ago
In your opinion, what is the best method of cleaning a fretboard between re-stringing it? I'd greatly appreciate your answer?
doctorgone 1 year ago
@doctorgone It varies based on how filthy the FB is and what the material is. Also, is it finished or not.
Give me some more info and I'll get you a good answer.
smbstressfest 1 year ago
Let's say it's a rosewood fretboard with not much gunk on it. I'd like to keep it that way.
doctorgone 1 year ago
@doctorgone In that case, almost any product that's labeled "fingerboard oil", "fingerboard cleaner", or "fingerboard conditioner" would be ideal. These products are usually not an oil at all, but rather a petroleum distillate very similar to kerosene that feels oily to the touch. Apply the product to a clean paper towel and buff the fingerboard until dirt no longer comes off on the paper towel. You can use your fingernail to help in corners and on crud that's hardened on the surface.
smbstressfest 1 year ago
Be careful NOT TO OVERSATURATE the fingerboard with whatever product you use. If the wood becomes soaked with ANY liquid it will swell, and this could contribute to loose fret ends.
If you ever need to do a more intense cleaning, you might try using the cleaner on a 0000 steel wool pad, and buffing with the grain, then finish up with a paper towel to help remove the steel wool residue.
smbstressfest 1 year ago
I'll be shocked if nobody else jumps in here, offering "help" as well. When it comes to things like cleaning a fingerboard, nearly everyone seems to have strong opinions on how often to do it, and what products to use.
Let common sense dictate, if it's dirty clean it. No need to buy the expensive stuff either if you don't want to. Typical hardware store mineral spirits is a good cleaner, and a few drops of mineral oil on a paper towel applied to a clean fingerboard is an excellent finish.
smbstressfest 1 year ago
jason, I know everything's a big deal but is it a super big deal to change the radius from 9.5 on a strat maple board to a 12 or even 16? I've done simple refrets and leveling but never really flattened a board much, just neatened them up a bit.
thanks, when you have time to answer.
shaire99 1 year ago
That's a pretty substantial undertaking. But I'm going to be converting a 9.5" to a 12" in my viewers' choice strat refret series coming up very soon. You might want to check that out...
smbstressfest 1 year ago
I HATE YOU!!!!
Its 1 in the morning here and I am very tired
I also love your videos and have watched almost everyone
So now I have to watch all of the videos for this series befor going to bed because there so interesting
azfryguy 1 year ago
Jason I must say your series on refretting and the detail you put into your work was very well done. I learned so much from your video's. I used your file method and they turned out great. When I removed the neck it had the mico tilt plug installed in it. Yet, nothing in the body. What are your thoughts on the mico-tilt feature versus shimming? I'm thinking of building this into the body but after watching you work would really appreciate your imput on this.
derbyd137 2 years ago
Is there anything you would recommend differently for a set neck guitar?
I have an Ibanez ADX120 and someone's trying to get me to refret.
sharkhead7854 2 years ago
Hi Jason how are you
Thank you for the videos
I have a question
I know that Yngwie Malmsteen also use those DUNLOP 6000 FRET WIRE,
I also know that Stevie Ray Vaughan used the Dunlop 6105 FRET WIRE
Im very interested on Refretting my American Standard stratocaster maple neck, I love Jumbo frets but like you said the designation "jumbo" is completely arbitrary.
my question is,
whats the difrence between the dunlop 6000 and the dunlop 6105 if both of them are called Jumbo frets?
walterockmx 2 years ago
Dunlop 6000 could best be categorized as an X-tra Jumbo fret. It's the biggest I know of .118" X .058"
Dunlop 6105 is more like a med wide and very tall fretwire. It's measurements are .090 X .055"
Both are good choices, and I have both installed on some of my guitars. The 6000 will of course wear longer because of the additional mass.
A single word like "jumbo" lacks specificity in this case. Only the empirical measurements tell us everything we need to know.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
That guitar is set up with the strings to close to the fret board.
cigskillu 2 years ago
What makes you say that?
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Iv played my Ibanez rg270dx for 6 years, it has a great amount of fret wear but it certainly does not buzz. Other people have played my guitar and they say the action is to high. I play very aggressively and when playing there guitars with my playing style its usually a buzz here and there when i dig in. I built my amp very strait forward, nuances really stick out and so would a buzzed fret. Granted intonation might suffer but i plan on making my own 'True Temperament ' neck to fix that.
cigskillu 2 years ago
different guitar players have different needs. good thing you customized your guitar, but as you said, if this guy adjusted the strings a little more away from the freatboard, it would feel good for people whose playing is more agressive like yours, but it wouldn´t feel comfortable for other players, I think it all depends on this guy´s customer needs and preferences, but however, if he need the strings set close to the fretboard, it can be done without any buzz, thats why he is fixing it
luisrockstar 1 year ago
Just wanted to say thanks for being so thorough yet concise. Your work is incredible and I can't wait to see some more projects.
52goldtop 2 years ago
Hi Jason, Thanks for the lesson.
What fret wire is the best for a rosewood maple? and which has more quality and is more durable?
brunocortina 2 years ago
There is no BEST wire for a rosewood, maple, ebony or any other fingerboard material. The kind that you like is the best, that's all that matters. And I don't see a difference in the durability among the different types of 18% nickel silver fretwire, I think it's all mostly the same. A different alloy wire will be either less or more durable, but if the alloy is the same the only thing that's different is the size.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Mhm I see.. You're right, thanks a lot.. Now.. I want to change my frets in my Yamaha Pacifica, but I'm not sure what kind they are? I'd have to see other fret wires so I can compare.. How can I know which type they are? maybe they're jumbo frets..
brunocortina 2 years ago
They're 18% nickel silver frets, that's the industry standard. The designation "jumbo" is completely arbitrary, measure them for width and height with calipers for some useful empirical data and then compare those numbers to other guitars on which you like the size and feel of the fretwire.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Hi Jason, Pete from the UK here. How would your approach change for a maple fingerboard? I have a varnished maple fingerboard on a standard US telecaster that needs attention. It looks like the varnish/lacquer is applied with the frets in place.
Cheers
Pete
evanspeteroy 2 years ago
Hey Pete, I would proceed as I did with the rosewood in the videos, and refinish after after I had the neck fretted but before the frets were leveled. That is, if the customer wanted to pay for me to re-spray. If not, I have a more cost effective technique that gives a good semi gloss look that's faster cheaper and easier. If they don't want even that expense, one coat of teak oil or birchwood casey tru-oil and we're done.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
nice end riff
JMorr1029 2 years ago
My strats mostly do the same thing, they "chatter" a lot on some strings. It's not really the same thing as a fret buzz, as it seems to be pretty even and consistent up and down the neck. When your new radius caul arrives compare it to the old one AND the guitar neck. It's possible that the radius differs on the guitar. I thought some of the highway one guitars were a flatter 12" radius... not sure though.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
PART2 , i compared a 9.5 raduis circle to the caul and it proved the caul is not correct!! i was not a happy chap!! ive ordered a wooden one and hope it is accurate, was my theory correct in order to iron out minute tolerances on new guitar frets, im gutted, ive read some guys take from fret 17 to 22 down a bit more since the truss rod only gives relief at the centre of a neck?all my strats are a bit buzzy/choky on the A and D strings up after fret 15, any help appreciated,George rom Scotland
musicfunkydude 2 years ago
JASON, Help !!! i just bot a new highwat strat and thot to make it play cleaner with a lower action i would use a 9.5 radius corian caul i bought rom ebay,i quickly noticed the edges were going down b4 the centre of the frets,only a fraction but it plays even worse now, PART1
musicfunkydude 2 years ago
Hi Jason, Can you tell me how to go about or advise the best way to refret a Les Paul Custom with the edge binding over the frets? The binding is my RED FLAG. I am concerned with a good appearance. Thank You, Jake.
listenhose 2 years ago
Are you talking about wanting to refret and keep the binding nibs? Most of the time we just file away the nibs since it's a lot of trouble to try and save them. I've never been asked to save binding nibs on a bound Gibson before, everyone has just said they didn't care about the nibs, they just wanted new frets.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Thanks for the video. saved my day. Fixed my Kelly with just 600 and 1000 sandpaper and steel wool.
sikajaperkele 2 years ago
Hello, I'm playing right now a '68 re-issue work cherry Gibson V and the fret wire on it is very high and boxy and overall uncomfortable. I've never played a Gibson like it so I was wondering if it would be easier to shave the frets down or to change the fret wire altogether. Please get back to me when you can thank you.
BlackTide617 2 years ago
They may not need even to be leveled. I agree that often Gibson fretwork is "boxy". Sometimes the Gibson way of doing fret tops is referred to as "school bus" style. I'll bet there is a noticeable flat spot on the fret tops right? Often all you need to do is recrown them back to a true half round shape and the fretwire suddenly doesn't feel so high even though you didn't touch it in the very center. And when I this job, it is cheaper than a leveling OR a refret for sure. Hope that helps.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
That helps very much thank you. Who could I see about getting my frets recrowned?
BlackTide617 2 years ago
Any qualified repair tech or luthier could probably do it. I could do it but that guitar might be expensive to ship to southern Indiana depending on where you're at.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Hey,
I have a gorgeous Ibanez RGT42 that has been my #1 since I got her five years ago. Unfortunately it's a neck-thru design, I play it daily and it's getting some fret buzz due to wear and the insanely low action I set up. Any suggestions? Can I polish the frets, or where do I determine when it needs a complete refretting?
staticflow62500 2 years ago
I would recommend taking it to a competent repair tech and getting their opinion on the amount of fret wear and whether or not a leveling or refret is needed. If you keep a very low action, fret buzz may just be something you'll have to accept to some degree. By all means polish your frets if you'd like, but just understand this is aesthetic and doesn't really have an impact on performance of the instrument.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
I have 2 guitars, one very similar to the one you do in this video (bolt on, 22 frets), and one that has a set-thru neck with binding. Could you tell me about how much it would cost to have these refretted? Also, do you do/know how to scallop fretboards and how much that might cost? Thanks.
jaywalker512 2 years ago
I'll reply to you in a private message shortly.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Why is it more difficult to refret a gibson style in comparison? Awesome series by the way! Very informative, I am trying to learn more about working on guitars and would love to see more of your work.
musicalmoses 2 years ago
The set neck design on the Gibson guitars don't allow us to work on the neck by itself. Being that the neck is always attached to the body, it makes it more tedious to install the frets AND you have to be much more careful clipping the ends after installation. Also the binding that's on many of the Gibson instruments means we have to precisely undercut the tang on each individual fret before we install. It's an extra step and it does slow you down.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
lol, masurments. great vid though!
swedishfish319 2 years ago
You must be referring to my south midland American accent... LOL I can't always detect, let alone control it when I speak. But I always notice it when I hear a recording of my voice.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
How much does a refret usually cost? I'm just wondering, it would be for a very similar strat.
snakesonaplayne6 2 years ago
I have replied in a Private Message.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Hey just wanted to see if you could send me a private message, I had a few questions regarding pricing, and shipment of guitar from out of state. It is a 2008 Fender american strat with maple neck. Needs everything except refret! Thanks.
RSguy8807 2 years ago
roller nuts are way better your not going out of tune with thos with normal nuts they will or just get one with a floyd rose
cobraopts7 2 years ago
A standard string nut will stay in tune beautifully if it's made properly. The problem is always FRICTION. If a strat isn't staying in tune, the first thing I do is examine the string tree(s) if the guitar has them. Then you'll make sure the nut correctly slotted and backfiled. After that, the tremolo bridge becomes suspect. Sometimes if the mounting holes or studs are just a tiny bit out of alignment, you'll have tuning troubles as well.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Roller nuts CAN be effective at eliminating the friction that causes tuning instability, but standard nuts do the job just fine if they're properly filed. Also, roller nuts and locking nuts can be a real pain when it comes to tweaking the action over the first fret. Bottom line, if they were necessary for guitars to stay in tune, we'd see them on more instruments.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
but i think floyd roses are better there double locking and dont make friction
cobraopts7 2 years ago
Certainly a double locking trem would be the most stable overall. As you pointed out, they don't allow movement, and so by extension... they also don't permit friction. I just want to make it clear for anyone out there who might be reading this, you don't HAVE to use a roller nut or a locking nut for your strat to stay in tune. But if you feel that's the best option to meet your needs, go for it.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
well, he did say the fret ends wear sticking out a little bit and there was a bow. I can't remember which way. He said the truss rod nut was rounded and he used a special bit to adjust it. I never touched the rod but it could have been the guy before me. He said it seems common for the strats to have that problem of the rod neck access rounding out. He said it might be hard for me to adjust it myself.
milotupy 2 years ago
hey jason, It's a good thing I didn't file anything! I took it to a guitar center and the tech told me my board is dry and that's causing the unevenness of the frets. It was probably golden when it left the factory. So I'm having him set it up for me now. Maybe I won't do everything myself after all.
milotupy 2 years ago
I've never heard of a dry fingerboard causing "unevenness" in frets. Perhaps the neck was back bowed. But if the guitar was dry, usually the neck takes on forward bow, not back bow. Were there fret ends that were sticking out (not up) and feeling sharp? If not, I doubt the guitar was dry at all. We have to be cautious and skeptical of we're told at GC and other big box stores. Places like that aren't service oriented businesses. Buy 'em low, sell 'em high is what they do there.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
I will say the strat has the most playablility of any guitar I've tried and will always be in love with it. Thanks for the feedback. I'll check out that book because I want to do every thing myself.
milotupy 2 years ago
hey jason, I have an 06 strat and have one high fret. The 8th fret is about 3/4 mil high and it's causing buzz on 6 and 7 of the 6th string. I action is ok and the truss rod seems to be fine also. But I tried tapping it with a screwdriver handle and it didn't move a hair. Do you think i should file?
milotupy 2 years ago
Hmm, hard to say... if you've never done fret work before, I can't really recommend you start on what is an otherwise good guitar. Most of us pop our repair tech cherry on some old junker first. Did you buy it from a local dealer, maybe there is a tech there who can do a little spot leveling for you? If you do decide to do it for yourself I'd recommend that you also read Dan Erlewine's "guitar player repair guide" or at least the section on fretwork first. Hope that helps...
smbstressfest 2 years ago
I got it from a guy on craigslist in mint with the manual and accessories. It's an american made in corona CA. I just can't believe it got out of the shop! I tried to be patriotic here but I thought american was the best. The only guitar I had before was a china epi les paul and that thing was nothing more than a good piece of fire wood and sold it as soon as the strap button was working itself loose.
milotupy 2 years ago
Hi Jason, I just wanted to say thanks for such a great collection of vids. I am a player, and I am going to have to get my Fender Prodigy re-fretted soon. These videos have helped me understand the process, and see all the work hours involved. Please keep em coming :)
MChadRussell 2 years ago
hay thanks for sending me this link smbstressfest i got a strat to so this will help even more
xzibit2313 2 years ago
watched all the steps, very cool stuff.
question, my american delux didnt come with the lsr roller nut. should I NOT put one on it? I was thinking about having on installed...until I watched your videos and now I am having second thoughts....I await your reply
workt 3 years ago
I don't like them at all. It makes it tough to adjust the action at the nut. I think it's fender's attempt at a fast (and therefore low cost) way to get a low friction string nut so their tremolo will actually stay in tune. A well made traditional string nut is adequate in most situations, if friction is an issue we can always use something slippery like delrin. Are you having tuning issues or something?
smbstressfest 3 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
just play -_-
noamyanai 3 years ago
huh?
smbstressfest 3 years ago
noamyanai did you read the title?
it says "refretting a Fender stratocaster"
not "playing"
nevets815 3 years ago 5
Very detailed and the presentation is filled with great information.
robbelt 3 years ago 4