Added: 6 months ago
From: amyadameurope2011
Views: 6,901
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  • ya, you should wear a helmet.

  • the fall is at 3:36 and is not that nasty

  • Props to the belayer for a job well done.

  • how do you fall off after the crux???????

  • Nice, was a good day that! Proper grit route, run out and slopey as hell!

  • Comment removed

  • That is interesting logic! LOL  Obviously both should be wearing a helmet, but it isn't worth debating stupidity! For a fraction of the cost of the equipment hanging from the harness you could have purchased a helmet. I have 23 of them!

  • The belayer has a helmet on and the climber doesn't! That makes a lot of sense!! LOL

  • @kayakair1 If the climber hits his head and goes unconscious, he get's a concussion.  If the belayer gets hit by a falling rock and falls unconscious, the climber dies. While a helmet on both persons is ideal, if there is only one helmet, I would much rather see the belayer wear it.

  • @Itstoearly curbar is well known for all it's loose rock

  • 3:30 for fall

  • Nice helmet 

  • why wearing so much gear?

  • My mistake I see 6a as the grade The conversion table I looked up clearly lead me astray. Along with the apearance of the movement. This climber does not apear to be a "strong 11 climber" I also strongly suspect that a tricam could have been placed in the horizontal crack at 1:30 I could be mistaken. between 1:30-1:50 I re-emphasise, that the climber is either well outside of his grade, or having other problems.

  • As for the fall, I saw no errors from either the climber or the belayer.

  • Lastly, what is a 6a (5.9-5.10a) here in canada, doing on an E4?

    Oh yea, tricams are AWESOME in horizontal crack.

  • @Northernblades Around 5.11c.

  • @Northernblades 6a would be british trad grades, not sport grades... it'd be around 5.11b/c for USA. doubling up the pro on there seems a pretty good idea to me, gritstone pro is notoriously sparse!

  • Not to be terribly rude, But, here are a few sugestions/observation.

    First off, For a climb, that is likely to have a total of 4 placements, that is a LOT of bling.

    next, double placements at both anchors.... interesteing.

    the double placement at the horizontal, pulls, the one piece out of the flair.

    Next. TRI-CAMS learn, live love them, they will save your life.

    Next, $250 high angle competative sportiva solutions. Might not be the Ideal solution for a 5.10a low angle face.

  • Fall is at 3:36. 

  • thank god for Friends!

  • good effort from both climber a belayer....might of made it if there wasn't so much gear on your waist. well done anyway.

  • Belayer did his job perfectly. Climber was a bit too high above his pro. Nice catch!

  • @canyoncaptive It sounds like your saying its his fault for being too high above the gear...........the rock dictates where the gear can go, its just the nature of the climb

  • the reason you fell so far is due to your belayer wasn't taking in the slack and keeping the rope tight in theory you should of only fell passed the first cam be fore your belayer got a gilt and stopped you

  • smart move pushing away from the rock, coulda got messed up

  • what is the rating on this route?

  • @wargerschaager E4 6a

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