Added: 10 months ago
From: wranglerstar
Views: 32,327
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  • muy bueno tanks 

  • Nice video. It was not said but watch the axle splines. You should always wrap them in something like an old sock and electrical tape if you plan on leaving them lay around. If the splines get damaged, your axleshafts will not fit back in. You can also do this job without removing the knuckle but removing it does allow for better youtube viewing. I agree that people should stop being pansies and learn to fix things themself.

  • @13:29 lol your cat wants attention :P

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  • Great video man did you outlook on self reliance. When the zombie apocalypse happens you will be one of the few survivors lol cheeers!

  • Great video-- haha meow>>lol

  • two words dodges suck

  • This is a great reason to invest in tools rather than taking stuff to the shop! Better than a chiltons manual, I went on eBay and bought the ford specific shop manual on my truck for $10 it came on cd and has all the ford specific procedures for everything. Also a good idea to have a second vehicle to run to the parts house if need be.

  • Great video bud. I really enjoyed it. Thanks so much for taking the time to setup the camera. I know it is a bit of a hassle, but it is one of the best videos I've seen on the project

  • Hey, I loved your video and what you had to say about "Self Reliance" Yes we need to be able to be more resourceful when resources are scarce. I am doing my ball joints today :)

  • Great video. My Excursion eats ball joints as I run narrow, high profile tires and do alot of gravel roads. I wish this video was around when I did mine the first time.

    One comment...replace the autohub o-ring and the bearing assembly o-ring. They are kind of expensive from Mr. Ford but they do wear and/or compress and/or dry out over time. It's good insurance.

    Again great video...it's real.

  • One should replace the yellow oriung as well as the oring on the locking hub if they are auto loack. These are important for vacuum.

  • The large lower nut on the lower ball joint is 1 5/16 or 33 mm. I couldnt even find a 1 5/16 unless it was 3/4 drive and had to buy a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter

  • Something VERY important is nut sizes. The four nuts holding the axle assembly together are 21mm. I didnt know that and was fitting SAE to them and 13/16 fit pretty good then stripped the edges off one nut before I called the ford garage and got the right size. How/where did you beat to get the axle ands seal out? I cant get mine out. Your vid shows you starting to take it out AFTER youve gotten it mostly out.

  • 11:54 who else with headphones pulled them aside to hear if someone was calling for you???? lol

  • @PaddyTheYankBastard

    I was scratting for my phone and then just stared blankly at it when there was nothing there :-D

  • I forgot to add something. Someone below alluded to this also---the Ford garage told me it took special tools and that the orings were particularly sensitive and could only be taken out or put in by trained mechanics! LOL I also have a bad bearing assembly and was told only an expert can do those , agaian especially because of the o rings. I was just about to sell my rig because the combines fees for the joints and assembly was almost $2000. Man, you actually just saved my truck. Gratitude!

  • Wow you just saved a lot of money for me. A thought---would you force lube into the hole of the lower one then place that plug cap in? You could do it with a hand pump. Do you have a vid on the bearing hub assembly? Thanks again. Tigard out.

  • You did an awesome job on this video...Very well done!

  • Very good video,I replaced mine yesterday 03 F250 4x4. 3 hr one side & 1-1/2 on the second side.

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  • Well done, and good advice to those who rely on others to do their work!

  • I did the ball joints on my 96 F250 7.3L crew cab last week. There were a couple things (one C-clip in particular) which are not in this video/Ford model. I made a vid of this part after finding almost nothing about it online. I ended up bending this C-clip because I didn't even know it was there. Hope this vid helps someone save some time/money - see video response.

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  • Again, a very good video, I have a rear wheel drive that I will be doing this next week, so the job is a little easier(no drive shaft to deal with, just bearings to repack) and it is always nice to see the job before tearing into it.

  • One thing people need to keep in mind is that they need to look at torque specifications when reassembling, and you can usually rent a torque wrench if you do not own one or want to purchase one. Getting a decent one that 'clicks' is more preferable to one with the bar and gauge, as you won't need to position in a way to see it.

  • Yes, a very good and detailed video. And I strongly agree with you comments on people learning to do things themselves. I have done service and repair work for many years, and have always felt the same way. And these are ball joints, you would have to intentionally try to screw up.

  • @haywood652 Oh we have a safety Sally making comments on the video. Do not impose you limitations and ignorance on the rest of us please just go away.

    WS

  • Hey dude where did you get the snap ring pliers from? I have bought every pair available around me and i cant get them to work to pull out that snap ring please tell me where you bought yours

  • @d420zz Snap-On

  • @d420zz Thanks so much for posting this, I paid $ 850.00 for this job a few months back, I have a Ford E-350 That I use every day for work...Never again will i pay for this job!!! again thank you for the info

  • very very good video thank you very much, my f450 is wait for me, thanks again.

  • thank you !! Will be doing mine soon !!!! 

  • Awesome video, thanks for sharing the knowledge!

  • I'm 15 and I love Ford and I want to be a mechanic for them someday! I know cars pretty well but ball joints always puzzled me. Until now. Thank you sir!

  • great video! I just did my a few months back.

  • Thanks man, this video was the only thing that made this job for me possible. I got stuck on how to get the axle out. I said, " I better YouTube this " and here was your awesome vid. Thanks. If I could, Id buy you a beer :)

  • I would def try to do this myself but upstate NY rust on a 03 250 scares me a little.....we'll see. Great Vid!!!!!

  • Thanks, great help. Decided to do myself.

  • thank you so much i have a 2000 f350 2wd, the shop wanted 1100$ to fix mine but i watched your video and i plan on taking it on myself in the next few days.

  • Excellent "how-to" video. Clear, concise, and very good info.

  • Thanks for taking the time out of your day to post this, I feel good now about doing my own ball joints.

  • Thanks this helped great video

  • THanks for the video!!!!

  • Would this basically be the same procedure for a Ford E-250 van?

  • what brand of ball joints did you buy? im thinking about eather the moogs or the m crafts!

  • awsome video, I totally agree w/ you on your views. I was stumped on trying to figure out the noise on my front end of my F-250 4x4. Thanks to your video, you save me money. I'm also a DIY person. Why pay someone to do a job you can do yourself. Thanks again

  • Great video I truly believe in being self reliant. Why are so many people timid on working on learning new trades.

  • Cody, I couldn't agree with you more on your comments on doing this yourself. I feel like you read my mind on everything, and it's good to see someone else shares my views on the labor costs. Yeah, do it yourself and buy some tools while you're at it and then you not only saved money but you've gained a few tools that you can use the next time you need to do work to your vehicle. Great video! I thank you Sir for your help, and glad that you decided to help out by posting this video. Thanks!

  • Thanks for this. It was helpful even though I own a little mazda truck. Im sure a lot of the elements are similar but the inspiration to do it myself goes beyond the model of the car.

  • Don't forget to grease the hubs, dealership price is $180x2

  • I got an f250 that needs ball joints, im in school to be a diesel tech and this helped me out a bit as I havent covered suspension yet in school.

  • Thank you soooo much!! This video just saved my family $1400,which is what we were quoted for doing them on my 1996 F250 4x2.

    Did the 'loan a tool' from Autozone..so really only out the price of the joints! I highly recommend spraying everything down with PB BLASTER each day for 2 days prior to starting..just makes sticking parts easier to remove.

    Again thanks..my family is struggling at the moment,so every dime counts. Your right..theres enough info out there,thatll save us cash!

  • what was the length you cut galvanized pipe 

  • what name brand ball joints did you use

  • @O7ROADKING the blue box, blue boots on the ball joints and price per each ball joint looks like he used Moog. Thats what I'm going with at least, when I replace mine. I have used Moog before and they make a good reliable product.

  • @kayem25 hi Kayem i replaced the ball joints on my 2004 F350 just about 2 months ago.i also went with Moogs. i just was not sure if there were any better.there are 2. more expensive. anyway if your going to do it anytime soon i found that Amazon.con had them $30.00 cheaper per ball joint than the cap autoparts were i live i saved $120.00 bucks so i bought the seal install tool for $55.00 Amazon has it all.

  • Thanks for making this video. It was such a great help. Like you said why pay someone elss to do something you can do yourself. I would have never thought I could do something like this but after getting the quote from the shop, I had to try. Thankfully I found your video. Keep em coming. Thanks again!!!!!!

  • Good Video, really informative!

  • if everybody thought like you America would be great again.Thanks for posting this video ill be doing my F350 ball joints this week end not looking forward to it

  • I replaced the ball joints on my F250 after watching this video. It took alot longer because of rust. My bearing assblies were basically welded to the knuckle with rust. You are lucky to have unsalted roads.

    One tip I will pass along...during installation be sure to "seat" the lower ball joint taper first and seat the sleave on the upper taper second. If you seat the upper taper first the lower taper will never seat and it is impossible to tighten.

    Thanks for the great video!

  • Great video

     Thanks

  • Great video man! Your right there arent a lot of videos out there just for us F250 owners. I would recommend a couple things for perhaps some new mechanics out there. When disconnecting the tie rod end from which ever side your working, I strongly recommend you use something like a shoe string to hold up that rod to prevent damage to the tie-rod ends boot on the oposite end. They can be expensive. Also like a few others said PB blast is ur friend! Great for stuff like this. A+ F250 brother!

  • Ford wanted $1100+ to replace my ball joints. I thought I was going to have to tear apart the hub gear assy like I did on my 70 Power Wagon, but after watching your video I see that the lock hub comes out as an assy.! I'll be going through some prechecks this week and rent the press and do it my self this weekend!

    Your video helped a lot Cory! Thanks for your efforts dude, keep e'm commin!

    Jeff in TX.

    1994 Ford F350 XLT 4x4

  • Great Video, I need to do this same job on my 96 F250 tomorrow morning. Now i will have some confidence going into it ! Great Video !!!

  • In all my years working on cars, I've never had to perform a ball joint replacement. I have a 1991 F-250 and this video just made my life easier. Why pay someone to do what I can with a little knowledge. Thanks for making this video.

  • Couldn't agree more with your comments about self reliance. It is a lost principle these days. Thanks for the great video. It was very helpful.

  • I've bought new ford ranger for a turbo build recently and it really handles like crap on the highway... I'm running straight and all of a sudden truck decides to turn one way or another it's really dangerous I almost crashed last time I took it ( drove only 400 kms) on the truck and now it's sitting while I build the engine. Are these balljoint problems?

  • I don't even have a truck and I couldn't stop watching this... nice work.

  • great vid, very informative as always.

  • +++++

  • it's the same way on a 96 f250

  • The reason they probably don't have grease fittings is so they will have more service work. They figure that they will get about 40 - 50% back for repair.Nice informative video.

  • Thanks Wranglestar Happy Easter!

  • Cat attack @ 13:28.

  • Thanks for the vid Cody. I actually I just got done replacing all the suspension and steering components myself on my 70 Mustang.

  • @reviveliberty good job! its not so bad once you get started.

  • Awesome vid. I haven't personally gone any farther on my vehicle than oil changes but looks like I could handle that job just fine. Thanks for the inspiration!

  • thanks bro, solid info,pete

  • You saved a lot of money!

  • nice work!

  • Great video! Thanks, Cody. Have you checked out Eric the Car Guy? He has some pretty good videos. Stay Dirty is his motto. Well I really did enjoy this one because I have two Ford's F-350 4x4 & F-600 4x4 dump. I agree why doesn't Ford has any grease fittings on the late model trucks? My 1962 F-250 had them but my 1994 F-350 doesn't. Where did you find the after market ball joints that had them pre-dilled for the zerk's?

  • @4460cows I have not seen Erik, My local independent parts store had the fittings. I think they are very common. You should have no trouble locating.

    Wranglerstar

  • Many, many thanks for taking the time to make such a quality video. I can tell you put a lot of thought into setting up the shots, and they turned out great, indeed. You're the best!

  • Dodge has the same problem with the upper ball joints not having enough clearance for the grease zerk on the 2500 and up 4x4s

  • This reminds me of many a weekend spent passing the wrong wrench to my Dads legs. My Dad said he did it to save money, but realy he just loved an excuse to buy more tools & tinker around. At the time it bored me sensless, but now i really miss those days as it taught me how to man up, nuckle down & get the job done.

    Thanks Cody for bring back pleasant memories.

  • Nice vid. You can get recessed grease fittings sometimes called "high pressure or Button type fittings" that should work on the top ball joints where clearance is limited.

  • @aaadream the top is not the issue its the bottom that comes into conflict with the axle u joint.

  • @wranglerstar There are fittings that should work that are flush or low profile. You use a needle like adapter for those types. I have used those with success.

  • If you don't mind me asking, what knife where you carrying that day?

  • @Meaglin7 I have been carrying the Benchmade Mini Griptilian. I have found it to be a near perfect EDC blade

    Wranglerstar

  • Great stuff. It sounds like this was the first time you did this job but you made it seem like you've done several of them! Nice work.

  • On a rear wheel only drive vehicle you do not need to remove a hub assembly. It's much easier unless you live in the north where the roads are salted in the winter.

  • your a good man.

  • Respect.

  • good video!

  • Ford's always make good work trucks. 

  • Cody, for someone that hasnt done it before, you are doing a heck of a job as an instructor.

  • @excxflyr Thank you very much

  • Great video !!! I agree be a self sufficient as you can !!!!

  • Thanks Cody, for someone with two left hands I rarely try things like this. I think I will start to change that attitude.

  • Thanks W. I plan to buy a F650 later on so that when I build the engine I have designed people will be able to see the massive truck getting 45 to 60 miles to the gallon on alcohol. I just hope that once I start building the engines the scum bags at the oil companies won't try to kill me since my design needs neither an oil pan or a rad.

  • @scarmenl i'll look foreward to seeing an engine like that

    Wranglerstar

  • Great Video!

    This is what Youtube is all about or at least it should be.

    Giving people the knowledge and courage to do things they wouldn't dream of doing all by themselves.

    Cody, you're an enabler of self sufficiency. Thanks!

  • haha im 14 and i did the ball joints on my dads truck.

  • Excellent Cody! You are right... We need to get back to the old days for sure.

  • Another great video. I love the way you think!

    I am an Engineer for an OEM. Auto repair is an area that I insist I do all my own work. Safety is my primary reason, but obviously $. Most shops do not perform the quality of service required for the premiums they charge. In the end it is often nothing less than robbery.

    The timing belt video on my page is an example of where I saved a close friend over $700. This is money he can use on groceries for the family.

  • @iMatt65 yes very true. We are of the same mind.

  • Great Vid Cody. Being an ASE certified tech I must say you are right a lot of things people can do themselves. A lot of shop charge book hours for a job. So no matter if it takes a tech 2 hours and the book says it should be 4 guess what you pay the 4 hours. Shops in my area are charge roughly 85 an hour. Keep in mind please do your homework on the job and be sure to read directions.

  • great video,how come you didn't use any P B blaster great stuff.

  • @halfazzhomesteader I was out

    wranglerstar

  • i like the way you think !!!

  • Great video Cody, I totally agree with you, things are getting so expensive and DYI is the way to go! Keep-em coming, Tim.

  • Perhaps you should rename this video to "DIY replacing ford f 250 ball joints" so that people who are looking for this information will be able to identify it by title alone.

  • @sunshinelowe will do

  • Must be nice not dealing with rust there would be no way of getting parts off without an inpact and heat when you have a vehical that sees roadsalt or worse the brine.

    Ball joints on Fords are known to not last very long they are worse on Dodge. You don't want to buy Moog they are crap, buy the upgraded Motorcraft for a Ford. I pretty much only buy Motorcraft parts the aftermarket stuff is getting worse quality wise it is all JUNK. Surprisingly enough Ford can be cheaper than the others.

  • Thank you for posting this video

  • indeed, that how you learn, I try to do everything my self on the scout

  • thanks

  • Great vid. Please dont forget your eye protection!!

  • You are the man. I have been needing to do some ball-joint work on my Chevy Avalanche 4x4 for a while. You have inspired me to try it on my own... I always do my own brake work and I just never go any further than replacing my rotors... I do not own air tools but I was thinking of buying an electric Impact wrench... Thanks Cody!!

  • great idea for a video i learned alot...

    i earn 200 a week....

  • These DIY You Tube videos are the reasons I started watching. Not sure when I'll need to ever change the front bearing on the F250, since I own a Dodge 2500, but who knows. Thanks for the video,

  • Well Done! I rented the same ball joint press from Auto Zone for $65.00...And you get the $65.00 back when you return the press!

  • ~UNBRIDLED APPLAUSE~ Great video Cody!!! WOOT!

  • @jcb570 the mechanic is just as likely to forget or do something wrong. He is under pressure to do things quickly. When you do it yourself you get the satisfaction of knowing that it was done right, by you. Unless you take apart the mechanic's work, you don't know it's been done properly. Have some faith in people.

  • @lukeyj15 amen

  • "...pansy friends who are too afraid to take on projects..."

    Amen, sir.

    And from a classically trained professional, I'll tell you that it's entirely possible to design your own house...and more.

    Keep up the great work, sir.

  • for a stuck hub, a gear puller will pop it right off....

  • Awesome video Cody. I wish I saw this a year ago. I fell for the mechanic's line that it would require too many special tools to do it myself. Thank you for sharing this on video!

  • Great video Cody, this is self sufficiency.

  • saving yourself like 900$, not a bad idea at all... that's my way to do things also, great video wrangler!!!!! Now, go play with your new excavator... :)

  • How many miles were on your truck when your ball joints went bad. Also what are some signs that my ball joints might be bad. I get a lot of front end vibration on rough pavement and vibrations up through my pedals. Thanks

  • Great job Cody! Great message too...YOU CAN DO IT!! I just did this job on my 03 Excursion last year, almost identical. Saved a pant-load! Once again, you made it look easy. Great point about using top quality parts for these type of jobs. This is another advantage to DIY, b/c you can bet that the guy at the shop would use the cheaper parts and still charge you out the wazoo!

  • Thanks for the video.

  • Thanks for sharing, Cody.

  • fantastic video. Just like all of yours. Very very informative. Keep this up I have sent your videos all around to my friends and family.

  • I did this exact job last summer. You're right, there weren't any good videos. I did end up finding one site where a ford mechanic had basically laid it out step by step with lots of great photos.

  • nise snapon tools i found a 1 5/16 inmact on the side of the road yeserday

  • Great video with awesome philosophy...

  • in vermont we salt our state all winter long and man talk about binding up when taking appart things on out trucks and cars

  • friggen rights self worth is priceless, and feels good to get her done by yourself

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